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Author Topic: Clutch Bite Point  (Read 2677 times)

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tunnie

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Clutch Bite Point
« on: 04 August 2016, 11:27:47 »

Fairly sure the clutch on the 2.2 is on it's last legs, 191k miles original one.

The bite point is almost mm's into the travel pedal, it's literally at the very, very, very top of the travel so that it's practically fully released before it bites in. To the point you think you've released the pedal, but it's not actually engaged yet.

If/When it does go, any tips for getting it into gear?  ;D
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Kevin Wood

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Re: Clutch Bite Point
« Reply #1 on: 04 August 2016, 11:45:08 »

The problem you will have is not getting it into gear but getting any drive once you are in gear. Placing a recovery truck in under the car will probably be the best option. ;)

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tunnie

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Re: Clutch Bite Point
« Reply #2 on: 04 August 2016, 11:47:08 »

The problem you will have is not getting it into gear but getting any drive once you are in gear. Placing a recovery truck in under the car will probably be the best option. ;)

Thanks Kev  :y

I remember being told by Master that the position of bite in the travel was not an indicator of wear on the Omega, but it it's so far at the top it's almost silly  ;D

As I don't really get any slip, 2nd gear, give it some revs, pulls fine as it always does.
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Doctor Gollum

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Re: Clutch Bite Point
« Reply #3 on: 04 August 2016, 11:50:52 »

Agreed, as soon a it starts to slip :y

AA bloke wanted to test it last time one went on me, but took alot of persuading to not try it... My reasoning being that it had to reverse up the slope of the drive, which would be easier to do with the last microns of clutch face than if he had to push it ::)

Tunnie, as soon as it starts to slip in top at 50--70 mph that's the time to pull over and get it recovered.

Having the clutch kit in the boot ready will help minimise the down time ;)

As for getting it into gear, if you can drive properly, you shouldn't need the clutch apart from pulling away ;)
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Nick W

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Re: Clutch Bite Point
« Reply #4 on: 04 August 2016, 11:51:12 »

The problem you will have is not getting it into gear but getting any drive once you are in gear. Placing a recovery truck in under the car will probably be the best option. ;)

As above. If you're lucky it will start to slip, rather than suddenly lose all drive. Unlike a manually adjusted cable clutch, it won't slip for long. That is best used for moving it on and off the truck, and into the garage.
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tunnie

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Re: Clutch Bite Point
« Reply #5 on: 04 August 2016, 12:00:30 »

That's all  :y

I'm not sure I'll repair it when it fails to be honest, getting the urge to replace it.  :-X

Manual is getting a bit annoying on my daily commute, all shocks need replacing as ride is terrible at the moment. Also would need a WIM session, front tyres shot. Drivers door lock knackered, warm weather I wish the air-con worked!

Can't identify a clonking from rear suspension over rough roads/speed bumps. Exhaust, donuts all look good. Metallic type noise.  :-\

Clutch I feel is not long of this world and I bet the HG has not got long either to go, being that it seriously over-heated a few months back and it's on 191k with it's original one.

Of course all of the above is 100% fixable, but not sure I want to invest in it any more.
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Doctor Gollum

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Re: Clutch Bite Point
« Reply #6 on: 04 August 2016, 12:17:36 »

That car deserves to expire in a fireball, or better still passed to the grandchildren... not due to service items...

Not helped by the fact that apart from oil changes, you've not actually done anything to it, hence your sudden reluctance now it needs a bit of work...
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tunnie

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Re: Clutch Bite Point
« Reply #7 on: 04 August 2016, 12:28:11 »

I've done a lot of other TLC jobs over recent months, not posted here. But after 11 years, time for a change is coming.  :)
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Diamond Black Geezer

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Re: Clutch Bite Point
« Reply #8 on: 04 August 2016, 13:16:43 »

Got a whole 2.0 Omega sitting in my 'spare driveway' the whole car could be acquired for almost pence when I'm done with it... subsquent an engine swap would be well within the abilities of many an OOFer/ I know it's trading down from a 2.2 to a 2.0...but as I say, could be done for velly good plice, engrishman. Also seem to think the manifolds don't go pop on the hardier 2 liters  :)
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Clutch Bite Point
« Reply #9 on: 04 August 2016, 16:29:53 »

Got a whole 2.0 Omega sitting in my 'spare driveway' the whole car could be acquired for almost pence when I'm done with it... subsquent an engine swap would be well within the abilities of many an OOFer/ I know it's trading down from a 2.2 to a 2.0...but as I say, could be done for velly good plice, engrishman. Also seem to think the manifolds don't go pop on the hardier 2 liters  :)

They do, possibly more so  :y
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Diamond Black Geezer

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Re: Clutch Bite Point
« Reply #10 on: 04 August 2016, 17:01:26 »

hahah, Oh, ok, then! perhaps not then  :y


It'll be going in the bin in a month or so, anyway  8)
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TD

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Re: Clutch Bite Point
« Reply #11 on: 04 August 2016, 18:10:54 »

Agreed, as soon a it starts to slip :y

AA bloke wanted to test it last time one went on me, but took alot of persuading to not try it... My reasoning being that it had to reverse up the slope of the drive, which would be easier to do with the last microns of clutch face than if he had to push it ::)

Tunnie, as soon as it starts to slip in top at 50--70 mph that's the time to pull over and get it recovered.

Having the clutch kit in the boot ready will help minimise the down time ;)

As for getting it into gear, if you can drive properly, you shouldn't need the clutch apart from pulling away ;)

I could argue you don't need a clutch for that either, but does rely on switching the engine off, if you need to stop and having a good battery to get you going again  ;)
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terry paget

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Re: Clutch Bite Point
« Reply #12 on: 04 August 2016, 21:46:06 »

My ex-police 3.2 clutch disengaged very high up and was on its 4th clutch when I bought it. At 157900 miles, Feb 2010, I detected clutch slip at 25mph 4th gear full throttle, so handed the car over to the wife, hoping she wouldn't complain. It kept going till Dec 2013, 175900 miles when it was slipping quite a lot. JamesV6CDX's  maintenance guide  - easy 4 hour job - persuaded me to attempt to change it. which I did, with help from this forum.
My point is the car kept going 3 years from first noticing clutch slip. It only slipped initially in a high gear, low engine revs and full throttle.   
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biggriffin

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Re: Clutch Bite Point
« Reply #13 on: 05 August 2016, 08:02:22 »

What's a clutch  :D
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tunnie

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Re: Clutch Bite Point
« Reply #14 on: 05 August 2016, 08:44:44 »

My ex-police 3.2 clutch disengaged very high up and was on its 4th clutch when I bought it. At 157900 miles, Feb 2010, I detected clutch slip at 25mph 4th gear full throttle, so handed the car over to the wife, hoping she wouldn't complain. It kept going till Dec 2013, 175900 miles when it was slipping quite a lot. JamesV6CDX's  maintenance guide  - easy 4 hour job - persuaded me to attempt to change it. which I did, with help from this forum.
My point is the car kept going 3 years from first noticing clutch slip. It only slipped initially in a high gear, low engine revs and full throttle.

I might try that on the way home, I've only "tested" it with 2nd or 3rd gear and some revs.
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