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[VXL V6]

Spark plugs and drivers side coil pack on the daily driver. I really need to move house and get a garage again, it pissed it down all the time I was working on the car and stopped as soon as I closed the bonnet....

[Doctor Gollum]

After all the Omegas you have owned, would you expect any different...

[VXL V6]

After all the Omegas you have owned, would you expect any different...

I suspect it would have rained if it'd been a pushbike lol

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

Wishbones, TREs, discs, pads, brake flexis, heater flush, headlamps restored, and cleaned up a lot of the underside and applied some lovely Bilt Hamber underseal... GK has been a busy boy! Just waiting for shocks and springs to turn up... oh and a hundred other jobs.

[Nick W]

Sounds like you've come to the same conclusion as me.. easier to fit a surge pot and lift pump.

With over a litre of fuel in it, it would take quite a serious bend at full throttle to give any fuel starvation.

I just prefer the factory approach of not having extra pumps, wiring, relays, pipework and connections. Plus, it means not having to find space for all the extra parts


The two I did used a complete Range Rover pump, that cost about £40. I made a square plate with a hole for the pump and 6 tapped M6 holes around it, and a clamping ring. The plate was welded into the top of the tank(Avenger and Dolomite, both wide shallow tanks similar to a RR which don't suffer fuel starvation), and the pump compressed into it. This uses an integral swirl pot, that must contain at least 1/2litre. The fuel tank sender is also a part of it, which eliminates another potential leak. The fuel return doesn't go into the swirl pot. The clamping ring is visible in the photo:





The external, gravity fed swirl pot and pump arrangement I built for my Superminx had the return into it; the pump couldn't cope with that, and overheated. A big V8 will require a bigger pump; I would build something like Aeromotive's Stealth pumps if I couldn't afford to buy the complete system.


The factory 2.8i Capri tank that I've got to repair uses an external Bosch pump clamped to the side of the tank, but only has what looks like a tupperware pot in the middle of the tank. These don't suffer starvation either, but you can't use the last drop of fuel in the tank like is possible with a carburettor tank.

[Sir Tigger KC]

Started first time after 2 months! 

[Kevin Wood]

I just prefer the factory approach of not having extra pumps, wiring, relays, pipework and connections. Plus, it means not having to find space for all the extra parts....

That does look a neat solution and it avoids multiple pumps and all the associated plumbing, as you say. What keeps the pot full when the tank is low, if the return flow doesn't enter it?

Also, with the return flow ending up elsewhere, it's going to empty quite quickly in a surge event, because it needs to supply the fuel pump's full capacity, not just the engine's demand.

But it's an interesting solution.

My fuel return goes back to the surge pot through quite a small loop (it's in the engine bay) but there is a separate return back to the tank with a restriction in it, so there is some circulation through the main tank. I've certainly never had any issues with overheating, so I'm guessing there's enough flow through the system to dissipate the heat generated.

[2boxerdogs]

Washed polished & vacuumed the 4x4 looking really smart now. 😉😉😉

[106pete]

Fitted a new oil heat exchanger, the poor coolant turned to sludge in no time at all, needed a service anyway.

Last 2 weekends spent converting to manual gearbox and lsd. What a difference that made!

[Doctor Gollum]

Nothing.

[2boxerdogs]

Left them all at home & gone to London by train.😉😉

[Elite_L0ver]

Tried to sort out the lumpy idleing Well i cleared the TH out as it was abit dirty



No luck 

Tried to clear the breathers 



No Luck 

To look down the plug well after taking the ignition coil out and violia soaked in oil

So is it this causing my rough idle we shall see because its fine once warm cam cover change it is question is will i need to replace coil pack also or will it be ok after a clean up 💨💨

Also booked mot for monday @ 1645 will this be affected by the rough idle😰

Also gave her a clean to smartner her up

[Carfix]

Fitted a towbar and greased the drive belt idler pulley on my 2.5 V6 Omega Elite.

Idler had started to make a noise and on inspection there was little evidence of any grease once the bearing dust shields were removed.

[tunnie]

Tried to sort out the lumpy idleing Well i cleared the TH out as it was abit dirty

Did you remove the throttle body itself? So you could clean under neath of the throttle housing?

Cam cover gasket change, clean it all up and coil pack itself should be fine. Get a genuine gasket if you can, still worth extra in my view on those.

[Elite_L0ver]

Tried to sort out the lumpy idleing Well i cleared the TH out as it was abit dirty

Did you remove the throttle body itself? So you could clean under neath of the throttle housing?

Cam cover gasket change, clean it all up and coil pack itself should be fine. Get a genuine gasket if you can, still worth extra in my view on those.

Yeah got the housing completly out removed from car and 2 tins used nice and shiny again so you are saying doing cam gaskets and cleaning up coil pack should sort it out