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[STEMO]

Drill the flanges, out, fit nuts n bolts. 5/16 drill bit, then fit M8, nuts/bolts.

Why not use an 8mm drill 

Because a 5/16, is a bit bigger, and allows bolts to fit better.

No it's not .... if anything it's a bit smaller. 5/16" = 7.9375mm
https://www.google.com/search?q=5%2F16+to+mm&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBGB804GB804&oq=5%2F16&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j6j0l6.4094j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

5/16 x 25.4 = 7.9375mm 

which is still adequate clearance for an M8 bolt

Never said it wasn't. Just curious why 5/16 was preferred over an 8mm

Some of us haven't gone metric yet.

[Nick W]

Some of us haven't gone metric yet.

some of us did a long time ago.
But I've recently tapped a lot of M5 threads in holes drilled with a #29 drill bit**  That's because I lent my 4.2mm bit and spare M5 tap to a friend to attach 12 hockey pucks to 6 sections of motorcycle tyres to upgrade their bell-silencers....




** number and letter drills - a particularly stupid American 'system'

[Andy B]

....
Some of us haven't gone metric yet.

it wasn't a metric vs Imperial debate. Big Griffin was using a 5/16" drill as it was believed to be a touch bigger than 8mm ie gave a bit more wiggle room .... as it is, 5/16" is actually a midge's dick smaller 

[STEMO]

....
Some of us haven't gone metric yet.

it wasn't a metric vs Imperial debate. Big Griffin was using a 5/16" drill as it was believed to be a touch bigger than 8mm ie gave a bit more wiggle room .... as it is, 5/16" is actually a midge's dick smaller 

A midge's dick is actually quite a large measurement. I believe the smallest measurement I have ever come across is a wrinkle on a pimple on a gnats left bollick. 

[Andy B]

....
Some of us haven't gone metric yet.

it wasn't a metric vs Imperial debate. Big Griffin was using a 5/16" drill as it was believed to be a touch bigger than 8mm ie gave a bit more wiggle room .... as it is, 5/16" is actually a midge's dick smaller 

A midge's dick is actually quite a large measurement. I believe the smallest measurement I have ever come across is a wrinkle on a pimple on a gnats left bollick. 

[LC0112G]

Sitrep - Lunchtime on day 3.

Attempted to remove the lambda sensor from the separated cat pipe. Got it as hot as I can (don't have oxy but do have a 400 degC hot air gun) then started to turn it out. It turned about 180 degrees then went solid. even with my best crows foot spanner I ended up rounding off the head. So that's 0-1 down. Next took an angle grinder to the cat pipe that is still attached to the mid pipes. Separated relatively easily. Then got that lambda sensor as hot as I could - and it came out no problems. A 1-1 draw then.

Luckely I knew I had 2 new lambda sensors in the shed. I'd bought them for peanuts many years ago when the local dealer was getting rid of excess stock - P/n VX90509274. EPC says these are for a manual X30XE - the correct p/n for an auto is VX90509169. However comparing the old one I did get out the difference appears to be the length of the cable - the cable on the manual one is about 17 inches, the auto about 12. Not sure what else could be different, but I'm going to fit the 2 new ones.

Next problem was the rusted in bolts in the exhaust flanges. I tried drifting them out, but they weren't budging. I ended up angle grinding the heads off and then drilling through - M3 - M5 - M7 - M8. Wasn't till the final M8 that the remains of the old bolts let go. The flanges are quite rusty, but there is plenty of meat left for them to go again. Cleaned them up with a wire brush and good enough.

Final step before lunch was to refit the rear and mid box section to the car. Used 2 trolley jacks to lift it into position, slid on the 6 rubber hangars and re-fitted the 6 spring clips.

Lunch is another Ginsters pasty, packet of crisps, banana hot cross bun and a donut, washed down with a couple of cups of coffee.

Next step is to fit the new lambdas to the front pipes, and then see how good a fit they are  to the car

[STEMO]

Very interesting, Malcolm. Never had a banana hot cross bun. 

[Doctor Gollum]

Caramel and blueberry ones are well lush

Malcolm, re the lambdas lots of heat and wd40 and work it a quarter turn back and forth with a decent set of grips. That said 400° is about half what you need... Butane torch should be alot more effective, and Helfrods stock them and are open

[LC0112G]

New (manual) vs old (auto) Lambdas.



Yes I realise a lot more heat would probably help, but was hoping to get it finished today. I do have a (butane?) torch somewhere, but assuming the new lambdas work properly that job can wait till I've got less time 

Next job was to drill out the M8 flanges on the new cat pipes. However, I went looking through my boxes of bolts and couldn't find any M8's that were long enough. What I have got loads of is M8 manifold studs extracted from old C30SE/GET cylinder heads. Hmmm...



I don't think they're stainless, but on the other hand I've never seen a rusty one either. Anyhow, screw the short end into the threaded part of the cat pipes, and use stainess washers and aerostiffs on the other end - comme ca..



I like this - it gives two degrees of freedom - If it has to come apart again either the nut comes off the stud, or the stud unscrews from the cat pipes. Anyhow, the cat pipes went on relatively easily,

Next was to lower the car so the front and back are the same height - both about 8 ijches off he ground. Then unscrew the gearbox filler plug and top up. Managed to get 2.5L of Dextron in - which was the start of my problem; Presumably the gearbox was empty. Anyhow couldn't get any more in so crossed my fingers and started it up.

Back under the car, and continue squirting Dextron in. Bugga - only had 4L to start with, and managed to get all that in. A quick look at Haynes suggests dry capacity is 8.8L. Cock Not sure where I'll be able to get any more from tomorrow.

And the exhaust is blowing at both joints between the cat and mid pipes. Gonna need some exhaust putty. Still, at least the joints should come apart easily.

[Doctor Gollum]

Helfrods should have ATF

Failing that, a competent petrol station...

[LC0112G]

Managed to get 5L of ATF and some exhaust putty from the local Halfords this morning. So out to the workshop to finish the job.

Did the exhaust putty first, then opened the gearbox filler plug. Got about 1.5L in before it started dribbling out with the engine not running. Started the engine, and then got about another 1.5L in. So something like 7L in total.

Got the car down off the ramps and went for a drive around the block. Almost immediately "Gearbox Fault" came up on the MID. Cranked the gear lever through all the gears

1 - Appears Ok. Good pull - away and torque.
2 - Appears Ok too.
3 - Hmmm not sure. It doesn't kick down to 1st/2nd. If you try to pull away in 3 it just slips the clutches and slowly accelerates.
D - Same as 3. No kick down at any speed.
R - Seems Ok.

So I took the car back to the workshop and gave up for the day. I'll open the filler plug up tomorrow and see if I can get any more ATF in (Haynes says 8.8L and so far I've only got 7L in) but this doesn't seem like low fluid to me? Seems more Electrical/Control? It doesn't cycle up/down through the gears in any gear, but 1 & 2 at least work properly when you're in their operating range (I think).

Any Ideas? I've got a feeling this box might be off a 3.2L, and my car is a 3.0L. Is there a difference in the ECU?

[Doctor Gollum]

Electrically the boxes are the same, the difference is how the engine and gearbox ecus communicate. Irrelevant as you kept your gearbox and engine ecus and looms. 

[LC0112G]

Electrically the boxes are the same, the difference is how the engine and gearbox ecus communicate. Irrelevant as you kept your gearbox and engine ecus and looms. 

Ok, so is there a way to 'blink code' the gearbox ECU to try and find out what it thinks is wrong? I've got Tech 1 but not Tech 2, and Tech1 doesn't seem to want to talk to my Gearbox ECU.

[STEMO]

Electrically the boxes are the same, the difference is how the engine and gearbox ecus communicate. Irrelevant as you kept your gearbox and engine ecus and looms. 

Ok, so is there a way to 'blink code' the gearbox ECU to try and find out what it thinks is wrong? I've got Tech 1 but not Tech 2, and Tech1 doesn't seem to want to talk to my Gearbox ECU.

You haven't tried topping it up yet.

[biggriffin]

Ensure you have the round plug in on LH top,  re check all plugs are fitted tight...