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136

Omega General Help / Re: Rear subframe rear bushings

« on: 14 June 2016, 11:11:03 »

Does putting it up on the forum infringe any copyrights? Just asking.

My original post was regarding the Powerflex drg.(PDF) which has a copywrite at the bottom. Just asking a question really as i have no idea.

Oh, that is found from www.powerflex.co.uk/i/product_images/99-112%20WEB.pdf, so it is freely available. And I think that copyright is just for preventing copying/reproducing the bushing it-self, correct me if I'm wrong.

137

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Electrical ground fault and ground locations

« on: 13 June 2016, 15:41:01 »

Well, familiar fault code P0130 showed up again this morning, even lit the yellow engine fault light on dash. Quicky looked at live data and there was almost no voltage change on 1st lambda.

Replaced lambda with Bosch-style oem lambda and now I can see 1st lambda to oscillate nicely at idle from 0.1 to 0.8 V and on revs in faster cycles from 0 to almost 1.0 V.

Long term fuel trim was almost 10 %, do I need to reset that (I assume that is only doable with Tech2?), or do I just ignore it and let ot settle down by itself? Short term fuel trim showed on quick test 0 to -3 %.

138

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Electrical ground fault and ground locations

« on: 13 June 2016, 04:43:54 »

I wouldn't bother with an original part if the one you're now using works ok. Your lambda voltage goes high enough and isn't causing a fault. Try it for a few weeks.

The main problem with your old lambda was the abnormal activity of staying low (and going "disconnected") thus causing a fault code.

Universal sensors can work fine, and if you dont get the fault anymore, why spend more money?

Just to be sure I don't need to do this same procedure again anymore

139

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Electrical ground fault and ground locations

« on: 12 June 2016, 16:48:37 »

Ok, now I measured lambda voltage, does not rise above 500 mV even when throttling quickly. When keeping revs up voltage even drops near zero.

So could I say it is prety clear that new lambda would help on this matter..

I now have replaced lambda with new same type and it kind of solved the problems.

No fault codes after replacement and driving 20 minutes on highway and in town.

It is just that voltage wont rise above 750 mV still (better than before 650 mV).

On highway voltage oscillated from 600-700 to 200-0 mV. In town it get as hogh as 750 mV when accelerating.

I think the main problem is that when I took closer look on package, it said that new lambda is universal type. What I'm read from Google is that universals dont necessary have the right voltage range as needed. And it mow seems that they can get broken also very fast 

I will buy genuine one, nevertheless no fault codes yet shown up. I will report back if this case is closed with genuine lambda.

Anyway, thanks for help guys/girls! This has teached me alot with this type troubleshooting and also some theory in this matter 

140

Omega General Help / Re: Rear subframe rear bushings

« on: 12 June 2016, 16:38:05 »

Does putting it up on the forum infringe any copyrights? Just asking.

Im not patented this (yet ) so I think it is okay to share this. And this aint exact copy of the original bushing there is no copyrights broken (I doubt there is any anyway).

141

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Electrical ground fault and ground locations

« on: 12 June 2016, 14:54:16 »

Ok, now I measured lambda voltage, does not rise above 500 mV even when throttling quickly. When keeping revs up voltage even drops near zero.

So could I say it is prety clear that new lambda would help on this matter..

142

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Electrical ground fault and ground locations

« on: 12 June 2016, 13:53:51 »

My recollection is that the 4 pot Omegas use Titania Lambda sensors not the more common Zirconia devices as used on the V6s. This means they have different characteristics so you can't directly compare the output voltages. If it 'ain't broke...

I don't believe that is true for 2.2 liter engines. Based on the graph the ecu clearly biases the circuit at 450 mV, typical for zirconia (vs. ~2v vor titania). Also sensor B1S2 is your typical zirconia too.Some of the 2.0 liter engines do have titania.


For Z22XE/Y22XE engine model:

ECU CONN. X83         WIRE COLOR          B1S1 CONN.
8                             gray                     4   (signal ground)
57                            black                    2  (signal)
19 & 35                     brown-white          1  (heater ground)               
23                 red-blue@ecu/white@O2     3  (heater power)

I can't tell which of the two ecu connectors is X83, try the one with more wires going to it...
Fault is intermittant so wiggle the wires as you test!

Edit: I corrected the signal ground and signal wire color & number.

Okay, measured these.

No resistant between ECU connector and lambda connector corresponding wires, and no cuts when I shaked wirings during measurements. Also soldered the wirings together where old lamdbas connector and new lambda wirings are  attached.

Lambdas heater element resistant 4 ohms.

Signal ground no resistant to battery ground or ECU casing.

I think I try again with new genuine lambda tomorrow if that changes anything..

143

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Electrical ground fault and ground locations

« on: 11 June 2016, 12:17:45 »

I made some basic measurements, dont have much time to go through ECU to lambda wirings.

Power off there was no resistant or voltage loss when compared between battery terminals and ECU casing.

But when idling the engine, there was resistant of 40 ohms between battery ground terminal and ECU casing and 0.06 V loss between battery plus and ECU chasing.

Also there was resistant of 100 ohms between engine block and battery ground terminal and same with ECU casing and engine block while idling. Powers off resistant was about 30 ohms.

So it seems that at least I need to clean all grounding points. I can see where ECU and some others ground below fuse box, but battery grounding to engine is not so clear to see. It dives somewhere under AC compressor,,can I reach it from below?

144

Omega General Help / Re: Rear subframe rear bushings

« on: 11 June 2016, 10:35:01 »

Done installing, was pretty easy job after all..

To drop rear subframe from rear:
- Lift rear on stands and remove rear wheels
- Remove rear shocks from bottom
- Remove locking bottom clips of brake flex hose and take out from holders
- Remove ABS sensor connectors from holders above rear bushings
- Remove two holder rubbers from end of exhaust pipe and one rubber near rear arch
- Put something between exhaust pipe end and bumber to hold exhaust pipe as low as possible
- Put jack under dif to hold it on place
- Remove rear bushing bolts and release jack to drop subframe
- Using steel bar or board to force subframe low as possible and lock it there
- Now you can see rear bushing bolts to subframe and remove them

Some pics of new bushings in place:








I hope this helps if somebody wants to also upgrade those bushings.

Instantly noticed better handling when cornering, no more feeling that rear is moving sideways.

Also resonation disappeared when using motor to slow down, usually happened when slowing down from 90 to 80 km/h.

Will go to MOT late this month, I hope they like this modification also 

145

Omega General Help / Re: Rear subframe rear bushings

« on: 11 June 2016, 09:29:41 »

Correction on dimensions: bolt holes (to car chassis) distance between each other is 115 mm, not 120 mm.

Almost got them installed, just needs to machine bolt holes to correct dimensions.

146

Omega General Help / Re: Rear subframe rear bushings

« on: 10 June 2016, 19:07:11 »

It was very fast assembly like that, but of course it would be better and more pro from one piece to center I don't have machines to do that, dunno how much that would cost to order.. Steel was like couple of euros and set of two bushings about 35-40 euros.

147

Omega General Help / Rear subframe rear bushings

« on: 10 June 2016, 18:52:46 »

I found out that my rear subframe rear bushings were teared up and could not find any replacements, so I decided to make them by my-self.

Here's some pictures of new ones, I used Powerflex 99-112 PU-bushigns (95 SHa) and made mountings for them. There was some R&D during manufacturing process so finished items are a bit different than on drawing.

Haven't mount them yet, will do it tomorrow and post some feedback how they work.


Dimensions for mounts

Powerflex 99-112 bushing dimensions


Old ones


Parts, I didn't use that lower plate because mount felt strong enough anyhow


Finished


Waiting for paint to dry..

148

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Electrical ground fault and ground locations

« on: 10 June 2016, 11:34:11 »

My recollection is that the 4 pot Omegas use Titania Lambda sensors not the more common Zirconia devices as used on the V6s. This means they have different characteristics so you can't directly compare the output voltages. If it 'ain't broke...

I don't believe that is true for 2.2 liter engines. Based on the graph the ecu clearly biases the circuit at 450 mV, typical for zirconia (vs. ~2v vor titania). Also sensor B1S2 is your typical zirconia too.Some of the 2.0 liter engines do have titania.


For Z22XE/Y22XE engine model:

ECU CONN. X83         WIRE COLOR          B1S1 CONN.
8                             gray                     4   (signal ground)
57                            black                    2  (signal)
19 & 35                     brown-white          1  (heater ground)               
23                 red-blue@ecu/white@O2     3  (heater power)

I can't tell which of the two ecu connectors is X83, try the one with more wires going to it...
Fault is intermittant so wiggle the wires as you test!

Edit: I corrected the signal ground and signal wire color & number.

Thanks for this. Will report back if I found anything wrong.

149

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Electrical ground fault and ground locations

« on: 10 June 2016, 10:11:45 »

My recollection is that the 4 pot Omegas use Titania Lambda sensors not the more common Zirconia devices as used on the V6s. This means they have different characteristics so you can't directly compare the output voltages. If it 'ain't broke...

Is that so? If Z22XE uses Titania-type lambda then there is my problem, because now I have Zirconia-type..

150

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Electrical ground fault and ground locations

« on: 10 June 2016, 07:34:58 »

Thanks again for nice reply!

I doubt that lambda itself is faulty, because fault code did not disappear or change since I replaced it.

Can you tell witch pins on ECU should I measure between lamda connector and ECU?

Today I plan to measure wirings, clean groundings and ECU connectors and check lambda wirings.