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76

General Car Chat / Re: So what have you done to your car today?

« on: 09 January 2018, 08:09:30 »

Replaced blower motor, old one ceased. Also replaced heater matrix while everything was almost out of the way.

Encountered some problems after finished the job, unpleasant noise coming from blower motor fan.
Undo the new motor and found out that fan propeller was touching to wall in front of fresh air filter:


Fan propeller touch that inner circle part


Marks where two material contacted

Solved the problem by removing material from that wall part about 1 mm by rubbing with sandpaper.
Needed couple of tries before it was perfect.

If I need to replace blower motor later on, I'll definitely test clearance by pressing hard on each screw base holding the motor to it's chassis, shown in pic below, with my thumb while motor in place and running.
It will tell immediately if propeller is too close to the wall..

77

General Car Chat / Re: So what have you done to your car today?

« on: 11 December 2017, 06:12:30 »

Yesterday (actually, I started the job yesterday, but got it finished today at 1.30 am local time) replaced manual gearbox with new used one and new clutch+(single mass) flywheel assembly.

DMF to SMF conversion made with these parts:
- flywheel from Vectra B 2.0 engine (20XEV?)
- clutch plate from Saab 9-3/900 2.0i/9.3i my. 97 -> (got this fast, I think any plate with 14 teeth and diameter 215 mm will do).
- pressure plate from Z22XE
- adapter for slave cylinder. New flywheel with clutch assembly was about 2 cm lower than original.

Works well, car maybe got some more power due to half lite flywheel and clutch now plays more logically.
Getting air out of the clutch system was interesting job. I've done it earlier with success, but now it was not so easy job for some reason 

Finally got it to work by plugging hose from front caliper bleed nipple to clutch bleed nipple. Then just pump the clutch system full of brake fluid by pumping brake pedal slowly. Reservoir level dropped like 2 cm, so there was a lot of air  (Brake fluid was changed about a year ago, so I hope not much of crud got in the clutch system from caliper..)

78

Omega General Help / Re: Rear subframe rear bushings

« on: 14 November 2017, 10:22:02 »

After a year, is this a successful mod that allows enough movement when needed?

Still attached, no faults or comments received during MOTs.
Handles still very well, very fun and predictable to drive during winter 

I have not took any closer look for awhile, but I try to remember to take some pics of this at the same time when I replace gearbox (when I got time to do it  ).
Maybe I replace LSDiff oils at the same time if I decide to drop the subframe for closer look   

79

Omega General Help / Re: Omega A R25 Hydraulic or Cable

« on: 02 November 2017, 11:08:32 »

^ Does this spacer fit when converting from Z22XE double mass flywheel+clutch assembly to singe mass flywheel+clutch assembly from Vectra/Omega A?

Or is it better to make spacer between slave cylinder and release bearing?

80

Omega General Help / Re: 1995 Opel Omega X20XEV - Gear shifting/Clutch issues

« on: 19 October 2017, 12:20:14 »

Did you bleed the air out of the clutch ?

This was the hardest part to do when I replaced all clutch related parts to mine (it was my first time).

I finally got it bleeded and working with:
- full new brake fluid bottle, two tight fit holes drilled to its cap for two pipes
- one pipe from bottom (under fluid level) of the bottle to clutch bleeding nibble
- one pipe from top (above fluid level) of the bottle to pressure air pistol
- brake fluid reservoir cap loose
- bleeding nibble loose
- keep pressure inside brake fluid bottle to force new brake fluid to slave cylinder and force air out from system

You can by nice tools for this, but I did not have time or vehicle to go and get one.. But it worked 

81

Omega General Help / Re: Removing drop arm from steering box

« on: 08 October 2017, 21:51:43 »

This is how I finally did it 

Tried to use force to get it off, but finally I was defeated and needed to use some brains (or something like that).
I used angle grinder and small blade to cut it from the ball joint's base, just enough that I could then break that base by hammering where tie rod end is attached. It was really easy job done like that, but only works if you are planning to replace that central rod 

Thank you. You angle grind the end of the tie rod around the ball joint, then hammer it until the ball is released. This still leaves the pin stuck in the taper of the arm from the steering box. You do not say how you remove the pin from the arm, though I imagine you could easily use a lever and screw splitter for this.

Oh yes, I forgot to add that now you can use normal tools to get that pin out, because now there is room to do that.
Tool like this for example

Edit. Yes, I tried everything. But I had no helpers available and car on jacks = limited access. So angle grinder was my last plan. But I think it was best option for that situation and I think if you are going to replace that rod anyway, it does not matter how you do it.

I have one of those tools, but I could not get it into the gap between the bits I wished to separate. Could be that as the joint is so loose the weight of the idler arm end closed it up.Here is my tool:

If you cannot hammer it off the usual way, it is a 5 minutes job to angle grind that ball joint base and hammer that off. Now you have all the access to arm with that pin inside it. Now you can hammer it off or use that tool.

Just imagine how easy job it would be if there were not that rod on your way limiting your working space 

82

Omega General Help / Re: Removing drop arm from steering box

« on: 08 October 2017, 20:43:28 »

This is how I finally did it 

Tried to use force to get it off, but finally I was defeated and needed to use some brains (or something like that).
I used angle grinder and small blade to cut it from the ball joint's base, just enough that I could then break that base by hammering where tie rod end is attached. It was really easy job done like that, but only works if you are planning to replace that central rod 

Thank you. You angle grind the end of the tie rod around the ball joint, then hammer it until the ball is released. This still leaves the pin stuck in the taper of the arm from the steering box. You do not say how you remove the pin from the arm, though I imagine you could easily use a lever and screw splitter for this.

Oh yes, I forgot to add that now you can use normal tools to get that pin out, because now there is room to do that.
Tool like this for example

Edit. Yes, I tried everything. But I had no helpers available and car on jacks = limited access. So angle grinder was my last plan. But I think it was best option for that situation and I think if you are going to replace that rod anyway, it does not matter how you do it.

83

Omega General Help / Re: Removing drop arm from steering box

« on: 08 October 2017, 18:09:38 »

This is how I finally did it 

Tried to use force to get it off, but finally I was defeated and needed to use some brains (or something like that).
I used angle grinder and small blade to cut it from the ball joint's base, just enough that I could then break that base by hammering where tie rod end is attached. It was really easy job done like that, but only works if you are planning to replace that central rod 

84

Omega General Help / Re: Aluminum headlight adjusters, are they still available?

« on: 04 October 2017, 11:30:50 »

Just bought and installed these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Opel-Vauxhall-Omega-B-Headlight-Adjuster-Life-Time-Warranty-Hella-/281256289565

85

General Car Chat / Re: So what have you done to your car today?

« on: 02 October 2017, 05:58:19 »

Nothing much really, drove over to see my dear old Mum and on the way home milometer went over 130k. Engine still runs sweet as a nut. Just waiting for HG to fail now.

My 2.2 was on 190k+.... still original HG

I,ll certainly settle for that tunnie

Just over 310k km (~194k miles) here with original HG, next timing belt operation will be about at 325k km (203k miles) and will change HG at the same time (if it holds  ).

86

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: h 7 bulb

« on: 27 September 2017, 13:13:51 »

Maybe you have already sorted it out, and I dont know are there any differences on year models..

But on mine -03 with xenons the hi-beam H7 just needs to be lifted upwards from base after connector is detached. New bulb then just needs to be pushed back in.

87

General Car Chat / Re: So what have you done to your car today?

« on: 26 September 2017, 06:19:10 »

Replaced headlight level adjustment blocks. Both were broken from body, ball joints were intact. Maybe somebody tightened them too much or something.. Easy job, took maybe 1 hour (never done this before).

Could not contact the guy who advertised aluminium blocks here, so I got these instead.

88

Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing

« on: 25 September 2017, 05:58:50 »

Double deleted.

89

Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing

« on: 25 September 2017, 05:42:32 »

I think Doctor Gollum is seeking problems where there is not any.

- Bush is perfectly supported for any forces that are directed to it. It is one mold piece and needed to be forced through arm and is very tight fit to arm. Will not pop off, because of tight fit to arm and also flanges of attaching points are holding polybush in place.

- On emergency braking or cornering, there is more bushing material (cross section area) taking the force than on original rubber bush. I can not think any force directed to arm that original rubber bushing could handle but this polybush could not. It is more likely that rubber bush would tear up before this polybush.

- Movement of arm is ensured, because material is soft enough and bushing is shaped to allow movement. This is the thing that will break the arm if movement is prevented because of too hard material and/or shape of bushing. Nothing else, if arm is as good quality as it should.

- Bushing is molded to one piece PUR so it will not tear apart in any circumstances and also polybushes are proven to be more durable than rubber bushes. More likely arm will destroy original rubber bushing than poly bushing.

- I've seen old rear rubber bushing, teared little bit as it normally does when it ages. That is much more security risk that this polybushing. And people are driving with bad condition rubber bushes many thousands of kilometers still with no arms to tear apart themselves or bushing.

I've been driven with this current setting about 25000 km. Last MOT was two months ago with no notes and week ago I was under the car checking for idler arm condition and checked arms (in place) but it was possible to see that both arms were OK (no cracks or bends).

I do like to drive corners fast (because current settings allow this with no trouble) and also I often need to drive un-coated roads (gravel roads) with big potholes so I could say arms are driven in very harsh conditions and i believe something would been shoving by now if there's any problems with that rear polybushings.

90

Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing

« on: 24 September 2017, 08:34:58 »

That picture doesn't give any real/useful detail.

Any pictures of it fitted to the wishbone and also fitted to the car?

I can take a pic next time Im under the car, if I dont find any from internet.