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[Andy A]

One side of the rear is jacked up but I only have the one jack. I need to lift both rear wheels off the ground for servicing and adjusting the handbrake. I know the jacking point is on the centre bolt of the triangular plate. If I jack from here where do I put the axle stand in order for me to use the jack to lift the other side?

[Andy A]

Managed to borrow another trolley jack.  Jacked up both sides on rear, put wheels under car but still no place for axle stands. Guess that will have to do. 

[Nick W]

It won't do. Hydraulic jacks are not safe to work under.

If you're putting the stands under the triangular plates, the jack the car by the shock mounts on the semi trailing arms. Or there's a sturdy area just forward and inside of the plates if you need to work on them.

[Lizzie Zoom]

I must say that I have always managed to jack each side of the Omega up with a trolley jack, then get an axle stand under to replace it.  There is just about enough room on the jacking point plate for that to be done.

I have also used a combination of trolley jack and axle stands, with a sections of heavy railway sleeper type wood, to gradually raise the car right up to maximum height for the axle stands, then allowing enough room to also get car ramps under each wheel for maximum safety.

[johnnydog]

With a bit of careful positioning, you can place an axle stand under the metal strap / surround of the rear diff mountings. They need to be reasonably extended though. I would always have a secondary support elsewhere, even if it is just the wheels themselves under the car on the 'chassis rails'. Don't under any circumstances place the axle stands or a jack under the diff itself as it will destroy the mountings because of the upwards force.

[Andy A]

Taken note and have now put the axle stands under the brackets to the diff and also wheels under the car.  I am using two large trolley jacks and there just wasn't room to place the stands along side as well. Thanks for the ideas. 

I have another problem. How do I get the rear discs off without damaging them?

I have loosened the brake shoes off on both sides using the adjuster and the discs refused to bodge. I can only grip the discs in one place so cannot wiggle it side to side like the front ones.

[Andy B]

Taken note and have now put the axle stands under the brackets to the diff and also wheels under the car.  I am using two large trolley jacks and there just wasn't room to place the stands along side as well. Thanks for the ideas. 

I have another problem. How do I get the rear discs off without damaging them?

I have loosened the brake shoes off on both sides using the adjuster and the discs refused to bodge. I can only grip the discs in one place so cannot wiggle it side to side like the front ones.

I always jacked the back up from under the diff & put my axle stands somewhere near the the rear do-nut bushes.

A large soft faced mallet often helps a drum to let go of the hub, though on my Smart Roadster I'd to leave it a week soaking in Plusgas.

[Lizzie Zoom]

With a bit of careful positioning, you can place an axle stand under the metal strap / surround of the rear diff mountings. They need to be reasonably extended though. I would always have a secondary support elsewhere, even if it is just the wheels themselves under the car on the 'chassis rails'. Don't under any circumstances place the axle stands or a jack under the diff itself as it will destroy the mountings because of the upwards force.

But then you are putting yourself unnecessarily at risk as you position the axle stands.

As I stated, there is no reason why you cannot position the axle stands beside a carefully positioned trolley jack on the main jacking point plate.

I have done that ever since my first Omega donkeys of years ago.

[Shackeng]

Taken note and have now put the axle stands under the brackets to the diff and also wheels under the car.  I am using two large trolley jacks and there just wasn't room to place the stands along side as well. Thanks for the ideas. 

I have another problem. How do I get the rear discs off without damaging them?

I have loosened the brake shoes off on both sides using the adjuster and the discs refused to bodge. I can only grip the discs in one place so cannot wiggle it side to side like the front ones.

I always jacked the back up from under the diff & put my axle stands somewhere near the the rear do-nut bushes.

A large soft faced mallet often helps a drum to let go of the hub, though on my Smart Roadster I'd to leave it a week soaking in Plusgas.

Not recommended, but this article explains: http://www.floorjackadvisor.com/blog/can-i-use-the-differential-as-a-jack-point/

[Andy A]

With a bit of careful positioning, you can place an axle stand under the metal strap / surround of the rear diff mountings. They need to be reasonably extended though. I would always have a secondary support elsewhere, even if it is just the wheels themselves under the car on the 'chassis rails'. Don't under any circumstances place the axle stands or a jack under the diff itself as it will destroy the mountings because of the upwards force.

But then you are putting yourself unnecessarily at risk as you position the axle stands.

As I stated, there is no reason why you cannot position the axle stands beside a carefully positioned trolley jack on the main jacking point plate.

I have done that ever since my first Omega donkeys of years ago.

Is jacking of anywhere on the plate OK. Is that correct? I was always told to only jack from the centre bolts and with this solid steel 3 ton jack it doesn't leave me enough room to do that.

[Andy B]

Taken note and have now put the axle stands under the brackets to the diff and also wheels under the car.  I am using two large trolley jacks and there just wasn't room to place the stands along side as well. Thanks for the ideas. 

I have another problem. How do I get the rear discs off without damaging them?

I have loosened the brake shoes off on both sides using the adjuster and the discs refused to bodge. I can only grip the discs in one place so cannot wiggle it side to side like the front ones.

I always jacked the back up from under the diff & put my axle stands somewhere near the the rear do-nut bushes.

A large soft faced mallet often helps a drum to let go of the hub, though on my Smart Roadster I'd to leave it a week soaking in Plusgas.

Not recommended, but this article explains: http://www.floorjackadvisor.com/blog/can-i-use-the-differential-as-a-jack-point/

It never did any of my RWD cars any harm 

A quick skim through reveals .......
This will only cover vehicle that have a straight rear axle, not those that have independent rear suspension and utilize constant velocity (CV) axles. 

[Doctor Gollum]

DO NOT under any circumstances jack the diff as it will kill the rear subframe mounts.

Using trolley jack, jack slightly ahead of centre bolt on front mount

Then position an axle stand at lowest setting in such a way that it is sitting under the plate just before the plate kicks up to the inner rear bolt.

Lower the jack and repeat the other side. Then jack again to raise the stands to a working height. Unless the jack is a foot wide, then it should all fit

[TheBoy]

Or put the stands on the rear chassis rails, assuming stands are long enough.


I feel your pain, as the Shag designated jacking and stand points are impossible to use at the same time at the back.

[Andy A]

Well shoes are fully free and handbrake cable fully backed off and I still can't get the rear disc off. It must have been off before because there is copper grease around the centre hub. Only thing I can think of is to disconnect the rear caliper so I have access to the disc to hit it loose with a hammer. What do you think?

[dave the builder]

probably a lip on the inside of the drum ,
is it solid or just moves but won't come off
smacking round the drum section is ok, smacking the disc (where the shoes bite) is a NO no

[amba]

The handbrake shoes have either created a lip on the inside of the drum or the liners have broken and are jamming the drum from being removed.

[Andy B]

Well shoes are fully free and handbrake cable fully backed off and I still can't get the rear disc off. It must have been off before because there is copper grease around the centre hub. Only thing I can think of is to disconnect the rear caliper so I have access to the disc to hit it loose with a hammer. What do you think?

Surely you've already removed the caliper to remove the drum ..... 

[Olympia5776]

Have you removed the recessed hex head screw that retains the disc to the hub ?

[Doctor Gollum]

Have you removed the recessed hex head screw that retains the disc to the hub ?

That would do it

[Andy A]

probably a lip on the inside of the drum ,
is it solid or just moves but won't come off
smacking round the drum section is ok, smacking the disc (where the shoes bite) is a NO no

Its solid. No movement at all.

[terry paget]

If it has not been removed for 10 years or so it can be hard to shift. I've removed mine recently and know! Obviously it still rotates. You must fully slacken the adjuster, remove the caliper and the countersunk screw. You say the hub shaft shows signs of copper ease so is presumably not rusty. The disc/drum should now come off.

Turning it, clouting the drum with a hammer, heaving on the disc, and levering it at the back, should shift it a fraction. Turning the drum a bit and repeating these efforts should eventually get it off.

If. god forbid, the linings have come off the shoes, you have a problem. I have done a dozen or so, and the problem in the end turns out to be a ring of rust inside the drum where the shoes do not rub. That is why it is vital to retract the adjuster fully!

[Andy A]

If it has not been removed for 10 years or so it can be hard to shift. I've removed mine recently and know! Obviously it still rotates. You must fully slacken the adjuster, remove the caliper and the countersunk screw. You say the hub shaft shows signs of copper ease so is presumably not rusty. The disc/drum should now come off.

Turning it, clouting the drum with a hammer, heaving on the disc, and levering it at the back, should shift it a fraction. Turning the drum a bit and repeating these efforts should eventually get it off.

If. god forbid, the linings have come off the shoes, you have a problem. I have done a dozen or so, and the problem in the end turns out to be a ring of rust inside the drum where the shoes do not rub. That is why it is vital to retract the adjuster fully!

I've removed the hex screw. Fully loosened the cable adjuster under car. So far as I can tell, the shoe adjuster is fully retracted but could be seized half way. I pulled the handbrake cable behind the drum/disc a few times to check mechanism was working and free and it is.

I at least expected a slight movement. Between the drum and the hub looking in the bolt holes there is no movement at all. Never had one like this before.

Do you clout it in between the wheel bolt holes on the front or on the side of the drum?

[dave the builder]

Side of the drum,shock should break the mating surfaces apart , rotate the drum as you go
perhaps it has never been off ,despite copper grease on the hub
that being the case,there will be a big lip, may rip the retainers out the back plate 
I remove all drums ,strip brakes every year prior to mot ,grind off any lip ,clean everything and adjust
some people just try to adjust handbrakes with the nut at the compensater bar
not the way to do it ,causes the issue you have now
best of look

[LC0112G]

I've removed the hex screw. Fully loosened the cable adjuster under car. So far as I can tell, the shoe adjuster is fully retracted but could be seized half way. I pulled the handbrake cable behind the drum/disc a few times to check mechanism was working and free and it is.

You can see the adjuster through the hole in the disk/hub. It's fully retracted once you can't see any thread on the screwy out bit.

Time 3:43 in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osIFghKM8cM

[terry paget]

If it has not been removed for 10 years or so it can be hard to shift. I've removed mine recently and know! Obviously it still rotates. You must fully slacken the adjuster, remove the caliper and the countersunk screw. You say the hub shaft shows signs of copper ease so is presumably not rusty. The disc/drum should now come off.

Turning it, clouting the drum with a hammer, heaving on the disc, and levering it at the back, should shift it a fraction. Turning the drum a bit and repeating these efforts should eventually get it off.

If. god forbid, the linings have come off the shoes, you have a problem. I have done a dozen or so, and the problem in the end turns out to be a ring of rust inside the drum where the shoes do not rub. That is why it is vital to retract the adjuster fully!

I've removed the hex screw. Fully loosened the cable adjuster under car. So far as I can tell, the shoe adjuster is fully retracted but could be seized half way. I pulled the handbrake cable behind the drum/disc a few times to check mechanism was working and free and it is.

I at least expected a slight movement. Between the drum and the hub looking in the bolt holes there is no movement at all. Never had one like this before.

Do you clout it in between the wheel bolt holes on the front or on the side of the drum?

I clout the back of the disc where the brake caliper used to be. There is probably a strong rust bond between the hub and the drum centre. Spray some WD40 around the bond. The copper ease was probably used to free the alloy wheel centre, that tends to get stuck on the hub too.
Bash it good and hard and you should see it rock a bit. Turn the wheel a bit and repeat. Spray more WD40. It's got to come off. The drum is expendable.

[cam.in.head]

As above. Its a common enough place for rust to develop and make the disc stick. Easy to tap off in 99% of cases. Worse is when your wheel gets stuck to the hub. Ive seen that a time or two !

[Andy A]

I'll have another go next weekend if I have time and let you know how I get on.

Thought I would have a brake from it for now and concentrate on renewing the over due cam belt, new oil filter, oil change, new air filter and new pollen filter. Got all the parts so I'll get that done.

Thanks all for your help and advise so far. 

[johnnydog]

With a bit of careful positioning, you can place an axle stand under the metal strap / surround of the rear diff mountings. They need to be reasonably extended though. I would always have a secondary support elsewhere, even if it is just the wheels themselves under the car on the 'chassis rails'. Don't under any circumstances place the axle stands or a jack under the diff itself as it will destroy the mountings because of the upwards force.

But then you are putting yourself unnecessarily at risk as you position the axle stands.

As I stated, there is no reason why you cannot position the axle stands beside a carefully positioned trolley jack on the main jacking point plate.

I have done that ever since my first Omega donkeys of years ago.

Without sounding like 'teaching your Granny to suck eggs', any Omega owner who intends to do their own servicing and maintenance should, in my opinion, have two full size 3 ton trolley jacks at their disposal. The weight of an Omega exceeds many other vehicles, and having two jacks makes many jobs so much easier as the car is equally positioned / balanced when up in the air. Axle stands should also be used as a further precaution of course.
The cost of relatively decent trolley jacks these days is a minimal outlay when your own safety is at risk juggling between just one jack and axle stands.
A fellow club member in a classic car club lost his life a good number of years ago when the vehicle he was working came down on him, crushing his chest and trapping him. Sadly his wife found him but it was too late. A sad lesson to be learnt unfortunately.

[terry paget]

As above. Its a common enough place for rust to develop and make the disc stick. Easy to tap off in 99% of cases. Worse is when your wheel gets stuck to the hub. Ive seen that a time or two !

Wheel stuck to hub - easy -loosen wheel nuts half a turn and drive car a couple of miles. Then remove wheel and wire brush hub. This problem only occurs with alloy wheels with steel centres. Bring back pressed steel wheels and wheel trime!

[Andy B]

As above. Its a common enough place for rust to develop and make the disc stick. Easy to tap off in 99% of cases. Worse is when your wheel gets stuck to the hub. Ive seen that a time or two !

Wheel stuck to hub - easy -loosen wheel nuts half a turn and drive car a couple of miles. Then remove wheel and wire brush hub. This problem only occurs with alloy wheels with steel centres. Bring back pressed steel wheels and wheel trime!

IMHO a couple of miles is too far. Back the bolts off, move the car on the drive & slam on the brakes. That's always worked for me ..... always other people's cars though.

[TheBoy]

As above. Its a common enough place for rust to develop and make the disc stick. Easy to tap off in 99% of cases. Worse is when your wheel gets stuck to the hub. Ive seen that a time or two !

Wheel stuck to hub - easy -loosen wheel nuts half a turn and drive car a couple of miles. Then remove wheel and wire brush hub. This problem only occurs with alloy wheels with steel centres. Bring back pressed steel wheels and wheel trime!

IMHO a couple of miles is too far. Back the bolts off, move the car on the drive & slam on the brakes. That's always worked for me ..... always other people's cars though.

I agree, 5yrds is enough.

[Nick W]

Driving it to loosen a stuck wheel means another round of jacking down and back up again. Knocking the wheel off with a length of 2x4 takes no time at all. The only time it hasn't worked for me meant driving the car round in circles for about 5minutes with several millimetres of clearance on the wheel nuts.

[TheBoy]

Driving it to loosen a stuck wheel means another round of jacking down and back up again. Knocking the wheel off with a length of 2x4 takes no time at all. The only time it hasn't worked for me meant driving the car round in circles for about 5minutes with several millimetres of clearance on the wheel nuts.

Yeah, just do that on MFL MV6 wheels or Irmscher Sportstars .

The common factor...  ...Irmscher

[grifter]

Block of wood between subframe bush bolt area and where rear chassis leg comes out from that area, jack up, then axle stand on rear sill jacking point. Doing that allows jack to be out the way enough to get axle stand on sill.

[Andy A]

Block of wood between subframe bush bolt area and where rear chassis leg comes out from that area, jack up, then axle stand on rear sill jacking point. Doing that allows jack to be out the way enough to get axle stand on sill.

will try that next time.