James to change rear wheel bearings you need:
Quality allen sockets to undo the drive shafts(you undoubtedly have these)
30mm 1/2" drive deep socket for the hub nut and a long breaker bar(at least 600mm, longer is better) to undo it, although every one I've done has been looser than the specified torque. You'll need a torque wrench that can manage 300NM to tighten it properly.
A means of pulling the drive flange. It's not tight, but you need to get it started: I use a modified Mini flywheel puller, but a thick bar bolted to the flange with a bolt to push against the hub will work.
Some means of extracting the hub. My past record of hammering this sort of part out is not good, which is why I made this tool to push it out:
Next is the circlip. This requires some large, stout pliers to get it moving, and then prying to get it out. The pliers are also needed to fit the new one. The ones with interchangeable tips are hopeless for this job.
The bearing isn't difficult with a suitable puller. Something like this
LINK is good, and is a useful basis for other pulling jobs. It will fit the new bearing without any damage.
You'll almost certainly need to remove one of the bearing races from the hub. Some surgical work with an angle grinder is quickest, although a Dremel will eventually get the job done, then a cold chisel in the slot.
I pull the hub through the new bearing using its nut and some appropriate spacers(old bearing races bored to a loose fit).
A decent cordless impact wrench is
very useful for much of this job, although a long handled 1/2" ratchet is almost as good.
I bought an unbranded bearing from ECP for about 20 quid. They sell an NSK bearing for £45 if you feel the need.
I understand your preference to do it yourself and will happily assist, especially if you do the preparation.