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[9jdm]

Rear brakes started horrible metal on metal noise today. I replaced the whole system 20k ago. I expected to get more out of them than that. There is some scoring on discs as I was on a long trip home. Will I get away with new pads only. Anyway I need the part number for pads. The search brings up two different numbers. Which is correct.  What is difference as they both appear to be same. 9192126n or 9195058. They are vented but I thought they were common. Many thanks

[Doctor Gollum]

Pads are the same. 

Part number difference is Trade Club or Factory.

Readily available on eBay for about £10 for genuine Trade Club

[Lizzie Zoom]

Rear brakes started horrible metal on metal noise today. I replaced the whole system 20k ago. I expected to get more out of them than that. There is some scoring on discs as I was on a long trip home. Will I get away with new pads only. Anyway I need the part number for pads. The search brings up two different numbers. Which is correct.  What is difference as they both appear to be same. 9192126n or 9195058. They are vented but I thought they were common. Many thanks

Indeed that is very low mileage from my experience.  

Bad driving (sorry!!), poor quality pads, or a mechanical fault / fitting error would/could be a reason for it.

[Doctor Gollum]

Rear brakes started horrible metal on metal noise today. I replaced the whole system 20k ago. I expected to get more out of them than that. There is some scoring on discs as I was on a long trip home. Will I get away with new pads only. Anyway I need the part number for pads. The search brings up two different numbers. Which is correct.  What is difference as they both appear to be same. 9192126n or 9195058. They are vented but I thought they were common. Many thanks

Indeed that is very low mileage from my experience.  

Bad driving (sorry!!), poor quality pads, or a mechanical fault / fitting error would/could be a reason for it.

Piffle...

If you drive a 2.6/3.2 like a idiott, then the TC hammers the rear pads.

[Lizzie Zoom]

Rear brakes started horrible metal on metal noise today. I replaced the whole system 20k ago. I expected to get more out of them than that. There is some scoring on discs as I was on a long trip home. Will I get away with new pads only. Anyway I need the part number for pads. The search brings up two different numbers. Which is correct.  What is difference as they both appear to be same. 9192126n or 9195058. They are vented but I thought they were common. Many thanks

Indeed that is very low mileage from my experience.  

Bad driving (sorry!!), poor quality pads, or a mechanical fault / fitting error would/could be a reason for it.

Piffle...

If you drive a 2.6/3.2 like a idiott, then the TC hammers the rear pads.

And what did I say DG!

Mis reading again!

[TheBoy]

20k is more than I ever got out of the rears of any V6 Omega I've ever owned.  As Al says, the TC gives them a good thumping - look in the mirror whilst playing, and you can see the dust fly off them, esp on the MFL non vented, as you can overheat the pads on TC if being a complete womble - I did this once to see how it would react, and did about quarter of a mile fighting the TC.  Utterly wrecked the pads.

I guess TC is the reason they fitted vented, as even in fast road use, the non vented were more than up for the job if properly maintained.


Also, as stated by Al, genuine factory OE ones easily available on the gay of E for a tenner. Wrong fitting kit for a 2.6/3.2, but the pads are identical.

[Lizzie Zoom]

20k is more than I ever got out of the rears of any V6 Omega I've ever owned.  As Al says, the TC gives them a good thumping - look in the mirror whilst playing, and you can see the dust fly off them, esp on the MFL non vented, as you can overheat the pads on TC if being a complete womble - I did this once to see how it would react, and did about quarter of a mile fighting the TC.  Utterly wrecked the pads.

I guess TC is the reason they fitted vented, as even in fast road use, the non vented were more than up for the job if properly maintained.


Also, as stated by Al, genuine factory OE ones easily available on the gay of E for a tenner. Wrong fitting kit for a 2.6/3.2, but the pads are identical.

Now that is a good explanation TB that informs in a pleasant manner the facts

Shame that some can only rudely say "piffle" !!!

I try to get on with the guy but really.......

[Doctor Gollum]

Now what? 

[Lizzie Zoom]

Now what? 

Come on DG you are better than that 

[Doctor Gollum]

You were expressing surprise that rear pads on a properly driven Omega only lasted 20k miles.

I merely expressed my view on why that was...

TB has obviously had two cups of tea in his bath today, as he is normally even more succinct than me

[TheBoy]

TB has obviously had two cups of tea in his bath today

As it happens, I did.  How the hell did you know?


//TB checks laptop webcam is still disabled

[Doctor Gollum]

TB has obviously had two cups of tea in his bath today

As it happens, I did.  How the hell did you know?


//TB checks laptop webcam is still disabled

Lucky guess

[9jdm]

Never thought brake pads would raise so much interest in the community.
I don’t drive like an idiot.
Removed the pads now. They were mintex. Do we rate them. The outside pad was down to the backing. The inner has about 8 mm left but was detached from the backing. Both pistons moving freely. I guess I will go for originals. Any further thoughts welcomed especially with the humour. Thanks.
Ps those pins are well and truly fubbered.

[Doctor Gollum]

Mintex pads are universally shite on the Omega. The pins being knackered really won't help as it could cause the pads to bind regardless of the pistons...

No one drives like an idiot. Ever.  On the Omega, every time the TC light flickers, the rear pads are being beaten to death.

Buy these... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-A-1994-2003-REAR-BRAKE-PADS-/263668154901 job jobbed 

Pins and springs are a different prospect, but part numbers here

https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=127928.0

Ignore the Mintex and Apec vented kits as they have been proven to be wrong

[9jdm]

Thanks DG for getting back. Will follow up and keep my foot off the loud pedal   

[Raeturbo]

Rear brakes started horrible metal on metal noise today. I replaced the whole system 20k ago. I expected to get more out of them than that. There is some scoring on discs as I was on a long trip home. Will I get away with new pads only. Anyway I need the part number for pads. The search brings up two different numbers. Which is correct.  What is difference as they both appear to be same. 9192126n or 9195058. They are vented but I thought they were common. Many thanks

Indeed that is very low mileage from my experience.  

Bad driving (sorry!!), poor quality pads, or a mechanical fault / fitting error would/could be a reason for it.

Piffle...

If you drive a 2.6/3.2 like a idiott, then the TC hammers the rear pads.

                Fair play I didn’t know that.

[BazaJT]

In 8yrs of owning this omega I've only seen the TC light operate once and that was on snow/ice.I've had my licence a long time and it's an old friend that I quite like the idea of keeping hold of.

[Lizzie Zoom]

In 8yrs of owning this omega I've only seen the TC light operate once and that was on snow/ice.I've had my licence a long time and it's an old friend that I quite like the idea of keeping hold of.

Exactly right Baza, same with me and I do not have brake wear problems that 'the boys' on here seem to have

But, I suppose, excusing you Baza, boys will be boys and not only burn their brakes but also burn their tyres, and I have known those individuals in business when the business is paying!!

[tunnie]

In 14 years of Omega ownership, I've only ever fitted 2 sets of rear pads.

1 set in the 2.2 and 1 set in the 3.2, put new ones in 3.2 about 4 years go, still plenty of meat on them.

[dave the builder]

I've had rear pad fitting issues on carltons (which are effectively the same set up ,obviously not vented like 2.6/3.2)
comparing the new and old pads ,the holes for the pins where slightly off 
when fitting pads, its important to spend time cleaning up where the pads go ,pins etc ,and checking the new pads move freely, sometimes I have to file the edges slightly (paint or bad machining )
If you want brakes that work, you can't just shove new pads in , you need to spend a little time cleaning everything  and getting them to fit.
which applies to all cars
JM2PW

[Doctor Gollum]

In 14 years of Omega ownership, I've only ever fitted 2 sets of rear pads.

1 set in the 2.2 and 1 set in the 3.2, put new ones in 3.2 about 4 years go, still plenty of meat on them.

Not exactly a fair measure... You don't do that much mileage, and when you do, you're not exactly known for driving* the car...

10k is reasonable for a set of pads (front or rear) on a properly driven 3.2.

*sticking it in drive and releasing the handbrake doesn't count.

[BazaJT]

While I don't exactly dawdle I don't tear about like I'm trying to win the F1 championship either! Driving with anticipation and letting the engine/gearbox do some of the slowing down I find means you don't have to hammer the brakes to stop.

[STEMO]

Both my front and rears have done 50K.

[biggriffin]

While I don't exactly dawdle I don't tear about like I'm trying to win the F1 championship either! Driving with anticipation and letting the engine/gearbox do some of the slowing down I find means you don't have to hammer the brakes to stop.

I was told brakes are cheaper than gearboxes.

[Nick W]

While I don't exactly dawdle I don't tear about like I'm trying to win the F1 championship either! Driving with anticipation and letting the engine/gearbox do some of the slowing down I find means you don't have to hammer the brakes to stop.

I was told brakes are cheaper than gearboxes.

The key word was anticipation. Paying attention to what's going on around you means you don't go speeding up to traffic/junctions/whatever that you should have spotted 1/4 mile earlier. That makes you car last longer which costs less, reduces your chances of crashing, and means your passengers don't moan at you.

[Lizzie Zoom]

While I don't exactly dawdle I don't tear about like I'm trying to win the F1 championship either! Driving with anticipation and letting the engine/gearbox do some of the slowing down I find means you don't have to hammer the brakes to stop.

That is how I drove with a manual, until I was instructed by a police Advanced and Pursuit driver on how they drive!

Totally different, and can be quite frightening!

You would not want their maintenance bills!!

[Doctor Gollum]

Tyres and pads every 5k

[LC0112G]

While I don't exactly dawdle I don't tear about like I'm trying to win the F1 championship either! Driving with anticipation and letting the engine/gearbox do some of the slowing down I find means you don't have to hammer the brakes to stop.

I was told brakes are cheaper than gearboxes.

The key word was anticipation. Paying attention to what's going on around you means you don't go speeding up to traffic/junctions/whatever that you should have spotted 1/4 mile earlier. That makes you car last longer which costs less, reduces your chances of crashing, and means your passengers don't moan at you.

Except most of the traffic lights round here have magnetic/induction sensors buried in the road - usually 3 sets at about a 10yard spacing. The sooner you get over the first sensor, the sooner the lights will change. So modus operandi is charge up to the first sensor at warp factor 9, then stand on the anchors to stop before the white line.

[9jdm]

Now I know you are all waiting an update. After stripping three pads hadn’t worn at all. The one offending pad had no friction material!  Maybe it detached and then fell apart. All were hard to remove so I gave the calipers a good clean up. The new ones move freely now. Thanks again. Until the next time.  I think it might be the old girls last year.

[Lizzie Zoom]

Now I know you are all waiting an update. After stripping three pads hadn’t worn at all. The one offending pad had no friction material!  Maybe it detached and then fell apart. All were hard to remove so I gave the calipers a good clean up. The new ones move freely now. Thanks again. Until the next time.  I think it might be the old girls last year.

Good news!!

There you go, they had not worn at the speed others thought was perfectly possible!  It WAS some form of material or fitting fault.  Just shows how "things" can happen on our cars!