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[Brikhead]

I still cant hear a second clunk when I double lock for the deadlock, like I usually can. Which would suggest the dead lock has jammed? Which confuses matters. :-/

The dead locks wont operate until the drivers door has been opened, after the ignition has been turned off. This is because the car thinks someone is still inside and doesn't want them to be locked in the vehicle!

It sounds as if something has become detached inside the door, you need to get the door card off which means damaging it, replacements should be available from one of the breakers on this site, or maybe even your local scrap yard.

[Kevin Wood]

Thanks again Kevin

Is it easy enough to get the rubbers off?

I could do with getting hold of a replacement mechanism so that I can understand how it works close up. I'm proberbly going to need one anyway.

Yep. Certainly worth a look. That coupled with the symptoms might well give you a few pointers to what the problem is.

Take the one off the other side? That will show you how all the rods and levers that connect to it work..

Alternatively, ask in the parts for sale area.

Kevin

[Boiler Man]

I still cant hear a second clunk when I double lock for the deadlock, like I usually can. Which would suggest the dead lock has jammed? Which confuses matters. :-/

The dead locks wont operate until the drivers door has been opened, after the ignition has been turned off. This is because the car thinks someone is still inside and doesn't want them to be locked in the vehicle!

It sounds as if something has become detached inside the door, you need to get the door card off which means damaging it, replacements should be available from one of the breakers on this site, or maybe even your local scrap yard.

Thanks

That's logical.

Does anyone know how easy it is to remove the rubber weather strip, without the door card off?

I'm hoping to get at the lock that way first.

Cheers Gary

[Boiler Man]

Thanks again Kevin

Is it easy enough to get the rubbers off?

I could do with getting hold of a replacement mechanism so that I can understand how it works close up. I'm proberbly going to need one anyway.

Yep. Certainly worth a look. That coupled with the symptoms might well give you a few pointers to what the problem is.

Take the one off the other side? That will show you how all the rods and levers that connect to it work..

Alternatively, ask in the parts for sale area.

Kevin

Thanks Kevin

Thats a good idea. I've tried contacting Elite Pete, he is not far from me.

But its worth putting a wanted in the part sale section, just incase.

[kcl]

Very peculiar one  :-/ What I have understood is that the lock itself is ok, the key turns and does do "something", also the locking pin moves. This sounds good. Inside lever is connected to the lock itself, thats good also, IIRC the lever has no spring inside so if it was loose from the lock it would be "really loose" and no resistance would be felt.

My thought is that the door is jammed somehow. Meaning that it is locked but the lock is "jammed" to the counterpiece in the B-pillar  :-/ Have you tried pushing the door VERY heavily inwards and the lift the handle?

It seems imho that there's nothing wrong with the locking mechanism. it is quite sturdy design and as long as the operating parts (key, lock pin, handles) move as expected it's hard to believe that the lock-unit is faulty. Also the CL motor is not the cause.

[Boiler Man]

Very peculiar one  :-/ What I have understood is that the lock itself is ok, the key turns and does do "something", also the locking pin moves. This sounds good. Inside lever is connected to the lock itself, thats good also, IIRC the lever has no spring inside so if it was loose from the lock it would be "really loose" and no resistance would be felt.

My thought is that the door is jammed somehow. Meaning that it is locked but the lock is "jammed" to the counterpiece in the B-pillar  :-/ Have you tried pushing the door VERY heavily inwards and the lift the handle?

It seems imho that there's nothing wrong with the locking mechanism. it is quite sturdy design and as long as the operating parts (key, lock pin, handles) move as expected it's hard to believe that the lock-unit is faulty. Also the CL motor is not the cause.

Thanks for the interest. It really is causing me problems.

Yes tried pushing the door in and out, at the same time as lifting the handle. It moves in slightly as obviously the door seals give a little.

Just to clarify.
I can't be sure the rods are connected to the locking mechanism itself, as I can't see it.

I can see that the outer door handle rod and the lock barrel rod are connected and moving at the top end - very little resistance though.

The inside handle moves with more resistance and I can hear it moving at the lock mechanism end. But I cant see if it is connected.

The button moves up and down with the central locking but I have a feeling that this is only reliant on a micro switch on the barrel, because if I dont twist the key far enough, it will still activate even if the key hasnt turned a full quater.

I have ordered a replacement locking mechanism off the internet, so that I can have a closer lock at the animal I'm dealing with. Which may help me tackle it full on.

Thanks for everyones advice. I will let you know how I go on.

I really could do with knowing if I can take the rubber weather strip off, without the door card removed. If anyone knows?

So that I can get a better view.

Cheers Gaz

[Andy B]

...
I really could do with knowing if I can take the rubber weather strip off, without the door card removed. If anyone knows?

So that I can get a better view.

Cheers Gaz

The weather strip just clips onto the top edge of the door. You need a broad flat lever (scraper perhaps) to lever it off. Obviously be careful of the paint on the top of the door also the srips are easily mis-shaped ie banana shape so you need to gently do a bit at a time.

[Boiler Man]

...
I really could do with knowing if I can take the rubber weather strip off, without the door card removed. If anyone knows?


So that I can get a better view.

Cheers Gaz

The weather strip just clips onto the top edge of the door. You need a broad flat lever (scraper perhaps) to lever it off. Obviously be careful of the paint on the top of the door also the srips are easily mis-shaped ie banana shape so you need to gently do a bit at a time.

Thanks Andy B

I take it you work from the outside?

Rather than window open and work from the glass side?

[Andy B]

...

I take it you work from the outside?

 ...

Yes 

[Boiler Man]

Hi Guys

All Sorted Now Thanks All

Just thought I would update my help request, in case it can help someone in the future.

I decided to take the drivers seat out, to give me room to attack the door card with the door shut.

I managed to get most of the screws and componants off, with the exception of the 2 screws covered by the dash side. With a bit of brute force and ignorance, I managed to lift the card off at the lock end and with it still attached at the dash end, managed to get enough space to gain access to the lock mechanism.

Anyway conclusion is that the lock was damaged. The 4 pronged cog that sits on the end of the latch shaft had fallen off and no amount of lever pulling and pushing would have opened it.

But thanks for everyone suggestions and help. I wouldn't have managed it without you all.

I managed to get a pair of long nose pliers in and twist the shaft and open the door for the first time in a week, Yipeeee.

What a relief. Arriving on jobs and us both jumping out of the same side of the car, was confusing customers, apart from it being an absolute pain in the bum.

The 2 topics in the maintenace section on removing the card and the locking mechanism were a big help.

I will post a couple of photo's asap.

Cheers Gaz

PS - The double clunking deadlock works agian, looks like Brikhead was right, in that the deadlock wont operate after the ignition key is removed, untill the drivers door is opened.

[Boiler Man]

  Damaged lock with cog and spring at the side.



Spot the difference the damaged one on the right and the replacement on the left with cog attached.



Can anyone advise me on what to use to reseal the door plastic sheet. The old glue went off and will not restick.

I don't wont it to stick back to strong, for obvious reasons.

Cheers Gaz

[Nick W]

Pretty much anything will do. Ordinary silicone sealant, sikaflex, duct tape, whatever you've got handy. After all, with the door card back on, it's not visible

[Dishevelled Den]

Well done Gaz - great end to an interesting thread. 8-)

[Brikhead]

Can anyone advise me on what to use to reseal the door plastic sheet.

As said, Duct tape is what I always use...
 

[Boiler Man]

Thanks for all your help guys

Much appreciated,  saved the day, yet again.