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[106pete]

After having one side replaced by a garage a year ago I wanted to save some money and gain some experiance.

I read up and found sizes for a puller and put together a kit, a nice 75mm socket worked as a tube and 24mm stud bar my puller, this worked perfectly and used a large set of stilsons to turn the nut, I guess getting the bearing out took about 10 mins!!!

Everything else was a pain in the butt, I didn't know the inside adaptor to driveshaft would be so tight on the splines. My puller was bending and had to shock the flange while using the puller which finally eased.

Getting the hub out of the bearing was more luck than anything, I didn't have a sliding hammer but found a old nut from a cv joint which fitted the inside thread perfectly and acted as a surface to sacrifice while I beat it out.

Getting that hub back into the new bearing was rather difficult aswell, I was reframing from hitting the hub as not wanting to damage the bearing, there arnt many ways to force it back it! I guess this is where I should have put it in the freezer. I ended up using a large g clamp and pulling it through using the back but and the old inner race.

I took some pics if they are any help to people.
This was the old bearing (video) :


Puller set up:




Getting the old inner race off the hub


The complete job took around 4 hours but easily less now I know the job, there's no way the garage should of charged me £180 and claimed it took all day.

I didn't need it but I have a back up way for a tight bearing, basically weld the crap out of it and it'll nearly pop out for you!!

[Nick W]

You've done the job, and not made a meal out of it which is the main thing.


I use a slightly modified Mini flywheel puller to remove the drive flange, and none of the four I've done have needed any effort.


My tool for pushing out the hub uses the brake backplate bolts, which adds a few minutes removing the handbrake mechanism, but effortlessly does the job.


The circlip is probably the hardest part of the job; some robust pliers are essential.


The bearing itself is easy, I use a FWD wheel bearing set both to remove and refit it. You do need to ensure that you are pressing on the bearing outer when fitting it, but that's no difficult.


To remove the inner race, use an angle grinder to make a thin slot almost to depth  along the axis of the hub, and split it with a cold chisel. That takes about as long as writing these two sentences.


The removed inner race makes a decent spacer to pull the hub through the new bearing using the hub's own nut.




This is a job that is a good use for a cordless impact wrench.

[STEMO]

Necessity is the mother of invention. Well done, Pete.