Omega Owners Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Search the maintenance guides for answers to 99.999% of Omega questions

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 [8] 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 ... 42   Go Down

Author Topic: Mechanic School Blog  (Read 94632 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Webby the Bear

  • Omega Queen
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Northampton
  • Posts: 12722
    • 2000 (W Reg.) 2.5 V6 CD
    • View Profile
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #105 on: 24 September 2012, 21:39:52 »

Search on here, I and a few others have explained a few times what EGR does (might even be in the FAQ section)

yep, should have read before i posted  ::)cheers mate  :y
Logged
RIP Paul Lovejoy

Andy B

  • Get A Life!!
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Bury Lancs
  • Posts: 39465
    • ML350 TDM SmartRoadster
    • View Profile
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #106 on: 24 September 2012, 21:48:02 »

............right upto final production Ford still used tapered seat plugs ....

I have actualy had to bin two heads off these when plugs sheared off on removal and NOTHING would get the remains out!
 .......

because people over tighten them  ...... too used to a crush washer under a plug.  :y :y :y
Logged

Marks DTM Calib

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • West Bridgford
  • Posts: 33828
  • Git!
    • View Profile
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #107 on: 24 September 2012, 21:55:37 »

............right upto final production Ford still used tapered seat plugs ....

I have actualy had to bin two heads off these when plugs sheared off on removal and NOTHING would get the remains out!
 .......

because people over tighten them  ...... too used to a crush washer under a plug.  :y :y :y

And because they extended the service interval to 20K miles!

A few winters, salt the lot and the dam things rust in   ;D
Logged

Andy B

  • Get A Life!!
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Bury Lancs
  • Posts: 39465
    • ML350 TDM SmartRoadster
    • View Profile
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #108 on: 24 September 2012, 22:20:11 »

.....
And because they extended the service interval to 20K miles!
 ......

 ;D ;D  I can only relate to my MKIII Cortina  ;), and that was lucky to not need something doing under the bonnet within a couple of hundred miles, let alone 20 000 miles!  ;D ;D
Logged

Kevin Wood

  • Global Moderator
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Alton, Hampshire
  • Posts: 36281
    • Jaguar XE 25t, Westfield
    • View Profile
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #109 on: 24 September 2012, 23:11:30 »


And because they extended the service interval to 20K miles!

A few winters, salt the lot and the dam things rust in   ;D

In practice most Fords appear to get serviced "when they stop moving". ;D
Logged
Tech2 services currently available. See TheBoy's price list: http://theboy.omegaowners.com/

05omegav6

  • Guest
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #110 on: 24 September 2012, 23:53:33 »

Well you might as well service the thing if you've bothered to drag it to the garage when it breaks ::)
Logged

Andy B

  • Get A Life!!
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Bury Lancs
  • Posts: 39465
    • ML350 TDM SmartRoadster
    • View Profile
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #111 on: 25 September 2012, 00:01:06 »

....

In practice most Fords appear to get serviced "when they stop moving". ;D

 ;D ;D ;D
Logged

Webby the Bear

  • Omega Queen
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Northampton
  • Posts: 12722
    • 2000 (W Reg.) 2.5 V6 CD
    • View Profile
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #112 on: 25 September 2012, 20:36:25 »

DAY 13:

Today saw me get in for a short day....10.45 to 16.15. Basically on Tuesdays and Wednesdays I get in late cos they have Maths and English retakes for the retards kids who didn't apply themselves fully in school. To be fair that's actually none of my group as they're all pretty smart kids. Ironically it is annoying though... I'd much rather come in and have another full day practical. Instead the lesson from 10.45 to lunch is a ''Tutorial''. Absolute 'dangle berries' if I'm brutally honest. As if this ''lesson'' wasn't pointless enough the one thing I was told I'd get from it would be proof reading of my assignments..... first assignment I asked to be proof-read was met with ''it's best if you get it read by your MV tutor as he'll know the answers''. ok. wtf!!!! grrrrr

Anyway, rant over.

We got assigned a new job today  :)

Me and my bud pulled the crank shaft out of a 1988 Astra 1.8.....unsure whether it was SOHC or DOHC as the head was mising  ??? but nevertheless we got the crank out and left the pistons in (sump off, main bearings off, big end bearings off, crank oulley off, oil pump off)

unsure the name of this device that we put our crank shaft on to (crankshaft holder device perhaps?  :D ::)) but we locked the shaft in place and awaited further instructions...

We were instructed to get a micrometer....

apologies for the poor pics but anyway this we were told to use to measure the main bearing shafts.... the front had a minimum thickness of 53.47mm (iirc) and the centre and rear had minimum 54.something. ours all measured at the 57mm mark... cant remember exactly what. anyhow i did learn that these bearings have shells in between to actually aid wear on the shaft bearing so if they get ttoo worn they're simply replaced. good idea!  :y

Anyway, we did a measurement report which basically consisted of noting the minimums, noting what our readings were and our reccommendations.... which in this case were that the bearings were well above minimum and could therefore be used again with no further action.

we then put the crank back, sewed up the bottom end, sump back, job done. that was basically this afternoons productivity.

there are a couple of things i'd like to mention as asides....

1.) not sure if this is something used in garages or whether its something unique to the college(s) but we have a system called ''AUTODATA''.........

you click on the make, model, year, engine size and then you're brought all the technical data like torque settings, measurements, head bolt sequences, tolerances for components etc. anyone use or know of this? really rather good :)

2.) i talked yesterday about valve clearances. the trick my teacher showed me was to get the clearance to what you believe is correct. then you take the next feeler gauge up (e.g. a 0.35 if the clearance should be 0.3) and if it fits in the gap then you need to tighten down. if it doesn't fit and you have resistance or ''drag'' on the correct gauge then you're spot on  8)

3.) the hydraulic lifters should also be checked for clearance apparently between the cam lobe (its corresponding cylinder again on tdc compression).

Anyways that concludes today's lesson.

ooooh one cool thing about college.... you get free pens and condoms  ;D ;D ;D ;D

will come in handy if i ever need to do the MARIGOLD test and dont have any marigolds..... definitely wont be using them for the purpose they were intended. love cars, hate s*x  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Car Bear
Logged
RIP Paul Lovejoy

henryd

  • Omega Lord
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • west cornwall
  • Posts: 8762
  • VW Touareg R5 tdi Auto
    • View Profile
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #113 on: 25 September 2012, 22:17:29 »

I use the Autodata program,very useful tool :y :y
Logged
other rides 
  mk3 Volvo v70 2.0 Diesel ,Citroen C2, Pug 306 cabriolet
  Sterling elite trekker pikey wagon

Marks DTM Calib

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • West Bridgford
  • Posts: 33828
  • Git!
    • View Profile
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #114 on: 26 September 2012, 08:03:45 »

As already mentioned, the feeler gauge set up does not work well on some engines including the Ford ones (there are some good alternatives). Did he tell you to apply light pressure to the push rod side of the rocker so as to remove the clearances in that part of the valve train?

Much more fun is settting the clearances on pushrod engines that need it doing when they are running (the old Nova 1.0 engines were like that)

A 1988 1.8 Vx engine will be an 8 valve although the bottom end is pretty much the same as the later 16V headed unit (which appeared in the early 90's)
Logged

Andy B

  • Get A Life!!
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Bury Lancs
  • Posts: 39465
    • ML350 TDM SmartRoadster
    • View Profile
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #115 on: 26 September 2012, 09:17:04 »

....
Much more fun is settting the clearances on pushrod engines that need it doing when they are running (the old Nova 1.0 engines were like that)

.......

Same as the older CIH cam in head Vauxhall lumps before they fitted hydraulic lifters. At least the undserside would never rust after you'd done them.  ;D
Logged

Marks DTM Calib

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • West Bridgford
  • Posts: 33828
  • Git!
    • View Profile
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #116 on: 26 September 2012, 09:32:59 »

Ah yes.

The hydrauilc lifter versions also needed initial setup with them running to. You used to back them off until they started to chatter and then wound the adjustment nut in a whole turn (slowly).

I had a home made cover for the timing chain for these.

The Nova 1.0 (which was also available as 1.2 in the Mk1 Astra) spilt almost no oil when setting them up, you could watch a small drop of oil flick upwards off the rocker and it landed almost where it started from!
Logged

Andy B

  • Get A Life!!
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Bury Lancs
  • Posts: 39465
    • ML350 TDM SmartRoadster
    • View Profile
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #117 on: 26 September 2012, 11:57:47 »

Ah yes.

The hydrauilc lifter versions also needed initial setup with them running to. You used to back them off until they started to chatter and then wound the adjustment nut in a whole turn (slowly).


Correct! I found a 'tappet' kept coming loose after higher motorway runs. It would always quieten up when adjusted & would stay silent till the next motorway run. I eventually discovered there was a samll hairline crack in the top of the lock nut! New nut sorted it ..... infact I think I still have a brand new somewhere in my garage  ??? No idea where no though  ;D
Turning more than 360 degrees though made the car undrivable ..... apparently!  ::)

I had a home made cover for the timing chain for these.

GM made mine  ;). I just cut a hole/slot in the top of a steel 4 pot rocker cover. It was later cut in half & extended when I got a 6 pot Senator  :y
Logged

omega3000

  • Guest
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #118 on: 26 September 2012, 19:54:45 »

No school today  :( ::)
Logged

Webby the Bear

  • Omega Queen
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Northampton
  • Posts: 12722
    • 2000 (W Reg.) 2.5 V6 CD
    • View Profile
Re: Mechanic School Blog
« Reply #119 on: 26 September 2012, 21:14:15 »

DAY 14...... Engine theory. Bits in red I need help with :)

Today started off well....100% correct answers for our weekly knowledge test with which I'll sum up:

Principle role of an Int. Comb. Engine: ''to take chemical energy, provide a place to heat it and turn the recipricating (linear) energy created into rotary motion which will eventually rotate the wheels''.

Piston and crankshaft indentification (easy)

Purpose of the HG: ''To provide a seal between the block and head so as not to allow combustion, oil or water to escape.

Crankshaft to camshaft rotation ratio: 2:1 (important note to self that even though the cam shaft will only have one turn to two of the crank, the cam sprocket will have twice as many teeth as the crank sprocket).... plus one full four stroke cycle equals 720o crank rotation, 3600 cam rotation.

Identification of a chain drive:


State the location of a mid engine.... rule of thumb: mid engine in front of rear axel, rear engine behind rear axel.

Indicate a rocker and camshaft on a Overhead Valve (pushrod engine).... camshaft at bottom near crank which pushes push rod up and that in turn pushes the rocker (located at the top) downwards to open the valve.

And some other stuff that was easy that I shan't bother to note  ::)

Anyhow.... I mentioned that it went well. which it did. then it got hard and confusing  :'( although on reflection I think i get it :)

Ok firstly we labelled up the exact parts of a crankshaft and i labelled up this google image which shows the different parts:

one really interesting thing i didnt realise until today was that the balance weights have the holes in them for literally that reason...balancing... like you'd add weight to the light area of a wheel to balance it, the balance weight is drilled of metal to balance it  :)

Ok, here's where it gets tricky....

How torque is produced in the engine....
now i qualified with the teacher that the only place in the engine where torque was produced was from the pistons. but having said that there are other areas that torque is used, obviously one we all know: the tightness of nuts and bolts using a torque wrench. however this discussion centred around engine torque....

ok, so torque is twisting force. to calculate torque it force X radius. SO
the spark occurs at the very end of the compression cycle, 10o before the piston is at TDC. Rapid burning occurs for 20o so when the piston reaches 10o PAST TDC it produces it's maximum force because there's maximum cylinder pressure and this then has the effect of shooting the piston down. NB, this pushing/shooting force could not happen at TDC because the radius would be 0o and therefore no leverage which is what you need to produce torque.
To measure the radius is where it gets dfficult (for me anyway).... it's easy with a torque wrench because when it's used at 90o to what it's tightening the radius (or leverage) is simply the length of the torque wrench  :y
HOWEVER below is how to work out the radius with regards to the crank and pistons (i've drawn this so sorry if it's a bit, errrrm, shite lol:


NEXT: VALVE SPRINGS

to sum up the cam operates the spring and allows it to shut. the spring keeps it closed and holds the valve shut until the next time the cam opens it.

Surging/Resonating: this is vibration created (at certain engine speeds) parellel to the valve guide. is this linear (up and down) vibration or side to side vibration?  :-\

most common spring is the helical coil spring as they're easier to fit compared to hairpin springs due to them being smaller and fitting in the tight space available:


ways manufacturers deal with resonating is to make the spring more tightly wound... less room to vibrate.
and also two springs fitted in to one really? why would this work? didnt understand the explanation really  :'(

Anyway that concludes today's theory. I'm not in again until Monday but I have been given some stuff to research which I'll add to the group for discussion :)

Logged
RIP Paul Lovejoy
Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 [8] 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 ... 42   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.035 seconds with 21 queries.