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[Doctor Gollum]

The kit is new with all the rollers. Locking tools are essential? It has openwork marks for camshafts and crankshaft

I can't believe that you would ask that question having posted those picture

[olm]

The kit is new with all the rollers. Locking tools are essential? It has openwork marks for camshafts and crankshaft

I can't believe that you would ask that question having posted those picture

Why? The tools facilitate the draft, but that's what brands are for

[olm]

The kit is new with all the rollers. Locking tools are essential? It has openwork marks for camshafts and crankshaft

the marks are for basic alignment only, and not for the fine adjustments needed to get the timing correct. It's very common for all 4 cams to be  whole tooth out if done without the correct tools. Which are:
A crank 'lock' which wraps around the water pump snout, but isn't intended to undo any of the bolts
A pair of wedges, each of which hold one pair of cams in the correct position once you've checked that with
The alignment gauge, which is the most important part of the set.


Once all 5 toothed pulleys are locked, you remove and replace the belt and rollers, ensuring that the belt is adequately tensioned and the 3 adjusters are in the centre of their travel. Then you remove the locks, turn the  crank through one complete cycle, reinstall thd crank lock and gauge, and adjust the tensioners again. You keep doing that until they don't need adjusting. This is the attention to detail that if omitted(and it often is due to time constraints or ignorance of what's actually required) that can cause big problems. An experienced DIY mechanic ought to be able to do his first V6 belt properly in about 90 minutes, so it isn't too horrendous

How to know when no more fine tension adjustments are needed?

[Enceladus]

Here's a Contitech video that clearly shows how to fit and adjust the belt.

It's appropriate to you and anybody else using the Delphi kits because the guy in the video is using a bottom roller that has the eccentric adjustment. The markings on the belt are only used to install the belt, not to adjust it. Apparently some belts don't even come with markings.

I think you can also order a DVD from the OmegaOwners shop.

[Doctor Gollum]

The kit is new with all the rollers. Locking tools are essential? It has openwork marks for camshafts and crankshaft

the marks are for basic alignment only, and not for the fine adjustments needed to get the timing correct. It's very common for all 4 cams to be  whole tooth out if done without the correct tools. Which are:
A crank 'lock' which wraps around the water pump snout, but isn't intended to undo any of the bolts
A pair of wedges, each of which hold one pair of cams in the correct position once you've checked that with
The alignment gauge, which is the most important part of the set.


Once all 5 toothed pulleys are locked, you remove and replace the belt and rollers, ensuring that the belt is adequately tensioned and the 3 adjusters are in the centre of their travel. Then you remove the locks, turn the  crank through one complete cycle, reinstall thd crank lock and gauge, and adjust the tensioners again. You keep doing that until they don't need adjusting. This is the attention to detail that if omitted(and it often is due to time constraints or ignorance of what's actually required) that can cause big problems. An experienced DIY mechanic ought to be able to do his first V6 belt properly in about 90 minutes, so it isn't too horrendous

How to know when no more fine tension adjustments are needed?

You can remove the locking tools without effort.

[Doctor Gollum]

The kit is new with all the rollers. Locking tools are essential? It has openwork marks for camshafts and crankshaft

I can't believe that you would ask that question having posted those picture

Why? The tools facilitate the draft, but that's what brands are for

Have a closer look at the belt in your picture and ask yourself what might have caused that damage... I would suggest that 5,000 km ago, that belt was fitted by a blind monkey high on opiates. Using just the timing marks.

Also I suspect that you will find the spacer missing from behind one or more of the pullies

Incidentally, whomever fitted that belt should be paying for the new one.

[biggriffin]

I've fitted kits were the marks on the belt don't match sweet fa, all the marks are for is the initial set up, which can be done with the marks on the pulleys and cut outs on the back plate, and a bit off correction fluid to highlight them. The adjustable bottom pulley just makes the fitting of a new belt easier..
My
Ten penath worth.

[Nick W]

I've fitted kits were the marks on the belt don't match sweet fa, all the marks are for is the initial set up, which can be done with the marks on the pulleys and cut outs on the back plate, and a bit off correction fluid to highlight them. The adjustable bottom pulley just makes the fitting of a new belt easier..
My
Ten penath worth.

that's been my experience too. I try the marks on the belt, and if they don't match carry on without them. They never line up once you've turned the engine through anyway.


The cutouts on the back plate are too far away from those on the pulleys to do the detail adjustment.


If you don't have the cam locks then you have to find some way of holding all four in the correct position while you route the belt and do the intial tensioning. You don't have enough hands!


It's dead easy to turn the crank with the belt as you fit it, so that's also needed.


That only leaves the alignment tool, and you're never going to know that all five pulleys are correct without it.


So it's possible to change the belt without the tools, but you'll have to improvise some form of locks(although the cam wedges don't cost much on their own) and you still won't get it right. Mine was a tooth out on all four cams when I bought it, and I thought it was smooth and powerfull. Fitting the new belt correctly improved both and increased the average fuel economy by 3MPG. Work out the cost of that over the belt's 40,000 mile life, and getting it right is a financial necessity as well as a mechanical one.

[olm]

Ok, thanks everybody, I will transfer all your advice and make it happen with the tools

[olm]

Another question, the belt only has 40000 mile life? It is very short, isnīt it?

[Nick W]

Another question, the belt only has 40000 mile life? It is very short, isnīt it?

No.


Not unusual for a 4 cylinder, and the V6 is a much longer belt with more rollers and bearings. A Ģ100 part and 90minutes work(less with some practice) isn't a big expense or hassle.


It could be much worse: Rover's KV6 uses 3 belts and is a lot of work; Renault recommend removing the engine to change the belt on any of their V6s(although it isn't actually necessary)

[dave the builder]

Another question, the belt only has 40000 mile life? It is very short, isnīt it?

1800mm 
hardly short 
AS DG pointed out, make sure the correct back plate and the spacer for the lower idler are used
 

[olm]

 Somebody knows the distance between the two cams pulleys?

[Nick W]

Somebody knows the distance between the two cams pulleys?

you could measure yours. But why would you want to know?

[olm]

Somebody knows the distance between the two cams pulleys?

you could measure yours. But why would you want to know?

One of the adjustment tools is a gauge that gives the exact measurement between pulleys