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[hotel21]

Battery on the 3.2 has decided to not hold a charge despite being externally charged a couple of times of late.  Even after 24 hours still took 1.5/2 amps or so.

As voltage dropped the interior lights came on and flattened it even faster.

Last time, battery recharged and took car for a run.  Removed interior lamps as constantly lit, irrespective of switch position.  Also noted drivers seat refused to adjust, whilst passenger side fine.  All fuses look good.

Whilst running, volts across battery around 13.7 or so, so not great.

Out for a run again and dash lights up with spanner light, charge light and a couple of others and speedo/revs dead and car in limp mode.

T2 initially would not recognise car despite several attempts but got there eventually after removing T2 card and reseating and reconnecting.

Handfull of fault codes including volts high and volts low.  Live data shows alternator volts as 10.7 or thereabouts.

Question is, would a failing battery that finally has a cell that goes completely dead give source to the disco lit dash and knacked leccy drivers seat, and not pass side?

Car now dead and charge light lit constantly when running (jumped).

[05omegav6]

Is the battery a) a Gm one and b) How old?

Peel the labels off the top, and if the caps are removable then check and top up the distillate with deionised water and try charging it again. Might bring it back...

Certainly nothing ventured etc...

[hotel21]

Is the battery a) a Gm one and b) How old?

Peel the labels off the top, and if the caps are removable then check and top up the distillate with deionised water and try charging it again. Might bring it back...

Certainly nothing ventured etc...

Battery is a no name and already done the labels/top up thingy but thanks for the reminder.   

[TheBoy]

Was that running voltage via a meter, or Tech2 live data - the latter tending to under read somewhat.

If it was via meter, I'd be suspicious of alternator.  Either way, sounds like battery is buggered. No harm in trying TA's top-up method, but it'll still let you down again in the not too distant future.

[05omegav6]

No bother

Have you a spare battery to try? If the charge light then goes out alternator ok, if not alternator toast...

[hotel21]

T2 engine running volts, battery is, i'm sure, rubber ducked. 

Question is, would transition from a lazy cell to feked cell cause assorted leccy problems within the car or could a shagged alternator do this on conjunction with the battery?

[hotel21]

Too late in the day to swap batterys etc but will give it a go in the morning.

Thanks for the input.  I'm happy playing with chunky metal bits but elicktrickery is definitely my Achilles heel!   

[TheBoy]

Do you have a meter?  Tech2 isn't strong at reading battery voltage, IME underreads badly normally, but doesn't show over voltage too well.

Overvoltage will boil the battery nicely, but you should notice instrument panel etc getting brighter with revs.  Some ECU's will store an overvoltage code (but can't remember which ones).

If you can get access to a meter, that would help. More than about 14.7v points to shafted regulator. Less than 14v at 2k rpm points to shafted diode pack.  Assuming the battery has enough charge to stop it dragging alternator down.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Quite known that alternator issues can cause interesting electrical effects and if an Elite you would expect drivers seat to misbehave whilst passenger is fine.  Also over volts from an alternator can cook a battery

[Kevin Wood]

Worth checking the crimps at the battery terminals in case they're loose, but agreed, alternator and/or battery most likely suspects.

Whilst it's possible that a dead cell in the battery could cause it to pull a lot of current, it's a big alternator in the Omega, so I'd expect the rest of the battery to be boiling. More likely, batteries fail with a high resistance, so voltages are fine from the alternator but it doesn't absorb a lot of charge and won't restart.

If it's the alternator, they can normally be rebuilt cheaply with a replacement regulator or rectifier (less likely).

The suggestion to see how it behaves with a fully charged alternative battery is a good one, if one's available.