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Messages - mandula

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91
Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing
« on: 24 September 2017, 08:28:31 »


Therefore only thing that propably causes arm to break from rear bushing is that rear bush is replaced with too hard bush that wont allow enough movement and/or shitty quality arm that would break anyway with original bushing and enought time and harsh ride.


The reason is because the rear poly bushes that have been tried previously are designed to work like the front ones; where the arm rotates around the inner metal sleeve. But the rear bushes work in a different plane - they are more of a joint - and so transfer all of the force(from a heavy car, with large wheels) directly into a part of the wishbone that isn't designed to flex in that way. That is guaranteed to cause exactly the failure that Al's pictures show. Attempting to strengthen the wishbone(which don't fail there when correctly equipped) is a dangerous bodge. The Omega specific bushes mentioned in this thread look much more like the OE rubber ones, and hopefully won't cause such wishbone failures. They're cheap enough that I'm tempted to buy a pair to evaluate whether I am prepared to use them.

Just what I'm trying to say.

http://www.strongflex.eu/en/omega-b-94-99/1583-131806a-front-lower-wishbone-rear-bush-sport-5902553518580.html

This is the bush Im using, it is one piece of PUR material and one separate central metal tube and needs to be bushed through arm, it is shaped and shoft enough to operate as a joint.

92
Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing
« on: 24 September 2017, 08:27:03 »
Delete..

93
Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing
« on: 23 September 2017, 21:38:11 »
I first replaced front bushes to polys.

Then after that, several months later, replaced rear bushes to polys. Here I could compare the up-down movement resistance.

It really does not matter if you have front bushing rubber or poly, because lets say 150000 km on rubber bush has same resistance to up-down movement as polybush have.
Rubber does loose its stiffenes/resistance and then eventually it will tear apart from metal.

And I believe nobody has any problems with front poly + rear original rubber.

Therefore only thing that propably causes arm to break from rear bushing is that rear bush is replaced with too hard bush that wont allow enough movement and/or shitty quality arm that would break anyway with original bushing and enought time and harsh ride.

94
Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing
« on: 23 September 2017, 15:54:07 »
Well, compared to original vs strongflex polys, originals were much harder to get to move up-down.

So really if arms can handle original bushings, there is no problem with those polys I'm talking about.

My opinion is that faulty (shit quality) arms and/or too hard bushes (not allow up-down movement enough) will cause arms to break.


95
Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing
« on: 23 September 2017, 14:24:59 »
Well those polys from strongflex wont snap my arms anytime soon.

They let arm to move up and down but prevent arm to move against bolt axis. So there is maybe even less force applied to arm than with original rubber bushing.

It sure will snap if you put some BOM bushing or similar that wont allow arm to move up-down.

96
Omega General Help / Re: Manual gearbox makes knocking sounds
« on: 21 September 2017, 17:36:14 »
Ok, thanks so far for all replys!

I found used unit for 100 euros, so I go with that to solve this problem.

Anyways, I think this gearbox is good practice unit to dig in to gearbox insides.  8)

97
Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing
« on: 21 September 2017, 12:32:51 »
Google found some pics, dunno are these same as original..




99
Omega General Help / Re: Manual gearbox makes knocking sounds
« on: 21 September 2017, 06:47:40 »
I tried two different oils, one from Castrol and now GM transimission oil (I think its just ATF..).

But the knocking sound remained, no matter what oil.

There is really very much play when I turn that output shaft, its like 10 mm free play before it hits something and makes that same sound what I hear when I change gear.
It's hard to explain, but there is this free play somewhere inside gearbox and when pull is on and then off and on again for example when changing gear, that free play causes the knocking sound.

Maybe I just try to find some cheap used gearbox and swap that in place, because I need car almost daily.. But will try to fix the problem anyway from old gearbox, just for interest to see whats the problem  8)

And yeah, car has now 310 000 km and I think DMF was loose for at least 20 000 km before I realised it was making all the weird noises I was hunting down for awhile  ::)

100
Omega General Help / Manual gearbox makes knocking sounds
« on: 20 September 2017, 17:26:31 »
My manual gearbox (R25 ?) makes this knocking sound when changing gear and/or when I press clutch while driving. Also at low speed at 1st and 2nd gear I can hear whining that I believe comes also from gearbox.

Gears go in easily without any unwanted sounds.

I know knocking is coming from gearbox, because I can reply it by turning the output shaft of gearbox when cardan is disconnected.

Earlier I have replaced dual mass flywheel to solid one (with suspensed clutch disk of course) and brand new differential. DMF was defected and I believe because of that my dif and gearbox got some banging that caused dif and gearbox to damage.

Ok, my question is:
Is it worth/easy to repair my gearbox or should I just change it?
I think it cannot be so bad defect, because gears go in easily without trouble..  ::)

Edit. Gearbox oils been changed twice in a year, no change to problem.

101
Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing
« on: 19 September 2017, 11:39:12 »
Fitted these year ago. Just checked wishbones, no defects found.

Didn't really noticed or even wanted any superior benefits, only longer life time for that bushing too. And now it is easier to replace if needed.

103
I don't know is this related to your problem, but at other forum there was a thread about Omegas air re-circulation problem, goes like this (free translate from finnish to english):

Omegas with air conditioning there might be a problem with programming on air con module, that causes air re-circulation to turn on when cold weather (about +5 C and under) and battery voltage drops below 9 V when starting the car. Air circulation indication lamp might not even light when this happens. This problem can cause inside of windscreen to mist or even frozen if cold enough.

This problem is caused by programming fault at air con module and it can be updated to get rid of problem, but also battery is not so good any more when this happens. Charging or replacing the battery might cure the problem for first aid.

104
Omega General Help / Re: Noisy differential?
« on: 28 July 2017, 19:25:22 »
I supported diff with my cheek when I replaced mine laying on the floor under the jacked car. It kind of slipped when I was lowering it :y

105
Omega General Help / Re: Steering Idler
« on: 21 July 2017, 05:48:24 »
sorry if i read this wrong. did you say that there is some slack"before you tighten it up"? if so that is normal .it tightens up to a tapered end on the shaft. what you dont want is some slack AfTER its tightened up. once tightened it should stay tightened. doesnt need any more nipping up.as others have said its the rubber internal bushing that wears and as some people have found out some aftermarket ones are rubbish ,having looseness /movement in the rubber from day one. if you can find a genuine arm from a carlton ,senator,monza etc you can use the bushing from that and fit into your own correct length arm

Yep, the play is most noticeable when arm is finger-tightened to place.
But there still is some play that can be noticed also when tightened fully (you can feel small clonking when you jiggle the arm up and down).

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