Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: addy on 17 May 2019, 12:08:18
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Hello I hope that someone can help me. I have a coolant leak in my 2002 2.6 omega. I have changed the radiator because it was cracked near the top hose, thanks to advice from on here. I have checked around the infamous HBV but cannot feel anything. I have tried driving the car with heaters off to see if it makes any difference, but it still loses coolant. I cannot see any drops of antifreeze underneath the car when parked up. Where are the obvious places that leaks occur on these. I feel like getting some K-seal for it. LOL
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Addy
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Hello I hope that someone can help me. I have a coolant leak in my 2002 2.6 omega. I have changed the radiator because it was cracked near the top hose, thanks to advice from on here. I have checked around the infamous HBV but cannot feel anything. I have tried driving the car with heaters off to see if it makes any difference, but it still loses coolant. I cannot see any drops of antifreeze underneath the car when parked up. Where are the obvious places that leaks occur on these. I feel like getting some K-seal for it. LOL
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Addy
NO ! :o
IIRC there is a guide on mixing DIY dye to find leaks that may help your quest :y
have you checked the heater matrix and pipes engine bay side ?
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I wouldn't really use k-seal, as read on here about how it causes more problems than it solves but you do get to that point. LOL
Thanks for the quick replies. Not tried the places you said, will look when wife brings it back. It's hard keeping a 1995 2ltr and a 02 2.6 Omega on the road, they are like kids always wanting money spent on them. LOL
Addy
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Hello I hope that someone can help me. I have a coolant leak in my 2002 2.6 omega. I have changed the radiator because it was cracked near the top hose, thanks to advice from on here. I have checked around the infamous HBV but cannot feel anything. I have tried driving the car with heaters off to see if it makes any difference, but it still loses coolant. I cannot see any drops of antifreeze underneath the car when parked up. Where are the obvious places that leaks occur on these. I feel like getting some K-seal for it. LOL
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Addy
The HBV can leak either open or closed. To test, with engine hot, system pressurised and engine running, set heater to MAX heat and watch for drips under back of engine, then set to MIN heat and check again.
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Thanks for the reply terry paget, will check as you say. The coolant bottle is clean with no oily residue, so hopefully nothing serious.
Addy
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I have followed the DIY leak detector guide on here - it uses several highlighter pens to donate thje dye - but isn;t as effective as the concentrated tracer dye. I got mione from ebnay, along with a UV torch: can't remember how much for.
UV light is great for showing up leaks, but after dark, of course!
Ron.
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Thanks for the info on the diy dye, will get a uv dye as suggested and hope it works. Will have to put a cover on the oneside of the bonnet to make it darker as I have a street light, right next to my drive.
Addy
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Just to be clear, you DO need a source of UV light for the dye to show up - it fluoresces under that light.
Ron.
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Hi Ron
Thanks for the reply. Yep got a UV light from when I was younger. :D
Addy
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How much coolant are you losing?
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roughly between 4 to 6 pints. Hot weather it needs more.
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roughly between 4 to 6 pints. Hot weather it needs more.
:o
over what period or miles :-\
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My 2.6 have a small leak in one corner of head gasget. It is reported here to be rare failure, but I have it, However. Hope you do not have that. I have used Stop Leak chemicals 10 years but understood they are not recommended. But it helps me. Some years ago I changed heater matrix, perhaps due to the usage of those chemicals. Usually when my HBV is leaking I can feel it in my nose as it is dripping to somewhere hot. If you are uncertain why not just to change HBV. Then you know more.
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The journey is roughly 14miles on A roads, that is what the wife who has been driving it says the coolant low warning comes on. I got a qoute for £90 inc vat abour and part to do the HBV, from a garage that is supposed to be recommended in the approved garage scheme. He said it will take roughly 1/2 hour. Everything seemed to be going well and I was about to say OK, when he said the problem is that there is only one origingal HBV in the whole of Europe. I said thank you and will get back to him, if he thinks there is only one in the whole of Europe, then either trying to get my business quick or an idiot that doesn't know about HBV fitting other Vauxhalls.
If I tackle the HBV job myself, is there a easy way to put the scuttle back on? Taking it off is easy, as removed the one on the wifes, but struggled to refit it.
Thanks for all the help.
Addy
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Dont change the HBV until you've found the source of the leak. It could easily be the oil cooler plate or the coolant bridge seals.
Throwing parts at a problem rarely ends well.
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I have some UV dye ordered. Where is the best place to look to see if it is the oil cooler plate or the coolant bridge seals? As I cannot see any drips, or patches of wet on the ground under the car.
Thanks
Addy
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Use an inspection mirror (https://www.screwfix.com/p/monument-tools-magnetic-telescopic-plumbers-inspection-mirror/64760) and a torch. You can get them a lot cheaper.
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Sorry for all the questions, would i be looking down the back of the plenum area from the top of engine, or from under the car?
Thanks
Addy
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For coolant leaks a cheaper and easier method than UV dye and torches is simply bright yellow food colouring ! Stick a decent amount in the tank and run the engine .. the bright yellow is easily seen with the naked eye, and it tends to dry to a solid "streak" enabling leaks to be spotted quite easily .. also flushes out/washes off easily when the problem is solved :)
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I had a lead a few years ago - was the oil cooler plate. Used to drip at the back of the bell housing and drip off the very bottom where there are a couple of bolts. Only did it when started to cool down after 20 mins or so (assumption being some things stayed warmer for longer !)
Clean up and new gasket/seal and jobs a good en, with new Dowty washers just in case.
Hope you get it sorted.
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Thanks for all the help. Gives me places to start looking. Isn't liquid food colourant derived from petroleum, a crude oil product, which also happens to be used in gasoline, diesel fuel, asphalt, and tar? So is it still ok to put say maybe 2-3 small bottles of a bright yellow in the coolant system? As said I do have the UV dye on its way, but am happy to throw some food dye in aswell for good measure.
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This is the stuff I've used in the past .... no petropleum in it at all... its designed to be eaten !!
https://www.sainsburys.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/gb/groceries/dr-oetker-yellow-colour-gel-15g?langId=44&storeId=10151&krypto=b1v0OTr%2FBLrl4%2BXnIXCBnhVZiocOoaRALtSXjvz6FHJJWDB84jVNO9lKfCoNfZus9BoYdaSJJkZfYpiDvqjZUyu6xgN0J05iBSsIFnpub1N%2BwMV6L262XMWUrjx8qctoou49HVk9Wu7cxrRHEHWVzSOwUeVnU8qydLfjvbHWg%2BM%3D&ddkey=https%3Agb%2Fgroceries%2Fdr-oetker-yellow-colour-gel-15g
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I not getting it untill I need it but, just checking prices incase.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genuine-Vauxhall-Oil-Cooler-Radiator-Signum-Vectra-Omega-V6-2-5-2-6-3-0-3-2/273810477027 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genuine-Vauxhall-Oil-Cooler-Radiator-Signum-Vectra-Omega-V6-2-5-2-6-3-0-3-2/273810477027)
Found the banjo bolts on Auto vaux
https://www.vauxhall-car-parts.co.uk/acatalog/VAUXHALL_OIL_COOLER_FEED_PIPE_HOLLOW_BOLT_-_90424578.html (https://www.vauxhall-car-parts.co.uk/acatalog/VAUXHALL_OIL_COOLER_FEED_PIPE_HOLLOW_BOLT_-_90424578.html)
unless someone knows cheaper.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-SEAL-RING-GENUINE-NEW-11076852-/152313065973?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-SEAL-RING-GENUINE-NEW-11076852-/152313065973?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1) 4 of these needed
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-SEAL-RING-GENUINE-NEW-90409175/162424645406?epid=2229758968&hash=item25d143671e:g:X6kAAOSw32lYwY4S (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-SEAL-RING-GENUINE-NEW-90409175/162424645406?epid=2229758968&hash=item25d143671e:g:X6kAAOSw32lYwY4S) 4 of these needed.
Do I need to get the following?
12992646 HOLLOW CHANNEL BOLT FOR COOLER BRIDGE
12992647 COOLER BRIDGE SEAL
Is the gasket sealent any grey make or is it a special one? Also what seals, gaskets are needed to refit the plenum, and inlet bridge?
Thanks again for the help.
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How many of those bottles did you use, did the gel dissolve ok?
Thanks
Addy
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Not quite a full bottle, nicked it from the wife's larder :) dissolved in a bit of hot water first, emptied the header tank, filled it, ran engine until the thermostat opened at which point my leak was instantly obvious, a tiny split in a hose, the yellow oozing out was obvious. Since used the same technique on an HBV, a leaking radiator and a leaking heater matrix (not all my cars though!) .. the heater matrix only became obvious when the passenger carpet started to show an ominous yellow stain ....... :)
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Thats great, will look in wifes baking cupboard. If not will blag her to get some, so I can use half of it. Not much left in my coolant tank most days.LOL
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roughly between 4 to 6 pints. Hot weather it needs more.
'Kin 'Ell Addy :o :o :o . . . thought a leak like that would be visible . :o :o :o
Also my advice NOT to start buying parts until you know what the problem is.
Dye method should see you right in locating it . . . :y :y :y
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I have some UV dye ordered. Where is the best place to look to see if it is the oil cooler plate or the coolant bridge seals? As I cannot see any drips, or patches of wet on the ground under the car.
Thanks
Addy
Plenum, inlet manifold and sandwich plate off to access them. Use the dye first though as it will save a lot of possibly needless aggro.
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Alnico Blue, I know it is alot, I am assuming due to no signs of any coolant on the floor that it is just evapourating on something hot?
I am not buying anything until I hopefully can find the problem, just looking at price of stuff.
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Sorry for all the questions, would i be looking down the back of the plenum area from the top of engine, or from under the car?
Thanks
Addy
If it's a leaking HBV, look under the car. I have had several fail, and got a drip every 2 or 3 seconds. It only leaks when system is hot and pressurised, and in the leaky setting (MAX or MIN). If set in AUTO it will leak irregularly.
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Thanks for the information, it is a great help. I will get the car up in the air and check it when warm.
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Auxiliary pumps leak, check those.
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Thanks for the information, it is a great help. I will get the car up in the air and check it when warm.
Up in the air helps, but is not necessary. When last I had a coolant leak, with engine running and hot, I set temperature to MAX, knelt down and looked at ground below rear of engine, no drips. Changed setting to MIN, looked again, and saw a steady drip. HBV, thought I. Scuttle off job, but not too bad, and had one in stock.
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Hi Terry Paget I did what you suggested. I put the heating to cold, the wife went out and had to put coolant in as normal. Went out to the car this morning to check coolant, had to put some in. When the wife pulled away, there was a medium sized puddle that would of been around the middle of the car, at the back of the engine. Before the wife left I set the heaters to hot, without blowers. She went 30 odd miles and the coolant warning light never came on. So still going to put the dye and the colourant in that Entwood suggested, but it is looking like it might be the HBV, reading comments. I priced Genuine VX one from the local dealer £24 inc Vat, but they have none on the shelf, so need to order and hopefully should be within 2 days for collection.
Debating wether to have a go myself or give someone else the aggro. LOL
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As I said in reply 3, HBV failure is common on Omegas, and may leak either on MAX heat or MIN heat setting (or auto of course). When failed it leaks briskly, and coolant can be seen dripping below the rear of the head, as you have discovered. It's worth confirming by this test before you embark on replacement, but now it seems very likely.
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I am so lazy that when I have coolant loss I usually change HBV first and start to think after that if that did not help. I have found that I have to change HBV after each 3-5 years, anyway, (perhaps I bought bad quality), reasonable job and quite cheap part.