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[kcl]

The only reference you have is to compare length, but massive errors are likely.

There's an unfinished guide in test zone for toe. Then it MUST be set correctly after.

Why massive errors would be likely? Reason I'm fighting this is that I do not want to pay another 90 euros for geometry check...

[kcl]

What would be the odds that the strut top has failed? I mean the rubber part? As said, bearing was replaced but I got somehow suspicious about this other part... And, this would explain the blind spot. But would it explain the feel of play also? Because I could not determine which ball joint in track rods would have been faulty...

[Sam Burton]

When i got my 2.2 dti i had loads of steering play it was horrendous but after looking at the tyres they were all diferent speed ratings and one of the fronts was a winter tyre so after just switching front to backs it has lost 95% of play and also you can play in the corners a wee bit more 

[feeutfo]

The only reference you have is to compare length, but massive errors are likely.

There's an unfinished guide in test zone for toe. Then it MUST be set correctly after.

Why massive errors would be likely? Reason I'm fighting this is that I do not want to pay another 90 euros for geometry check...

Don't be tight.

Up to you though, but I suspect you'll need to start again once sorted. A fraction of a turn on the track rod will give a lot of travel on the toe setting. It's simply not possible to measure track rod length that accurately. If the track rod is off rotate the wheel and stub axle through the steering range. See if there a tight spot, or anything odd. Could be top mount or wishbone ball joint.
 With the steering components isolated from the steering assembly you should be able to narrow it down to one side or other.

[kcl]

Damn. And I'm embarresed. It's the lower ball joint on wishbone.  I could not believe it would be that, only a few months since I repalced the whole wishbone with a complete new part!

I did change the track rod however, well the inner joint felt quite loose anyway.

So, tonight I will be trying to drill the rivets out and put a new ball joint in, the I will be booking to full alignment. Can the ball joint be done in-situ without removing wishbone and/or without opening the strut -to- knuckle - bolts?

Something learned: never ever mislook the obvious. Even if you are sure the fault is not in certain component it still can be  I could not have imagined it would be the lower ball but there is play in it and seems like a fair reason for this blind spot in steering.

[feeutfo]

Which wishbones fitted...?

Strut to knuckle/stub axle bolts do not need to be undone. Although the wb ball joint will affect camber setting slightly.

[feeutfo]

Ps, check everything else IMO. Don't want to find the blind spot or another fault still exists after another set up cost.

[kcl]

Nor do I want to find that blind spot ever again  I have so far done and checked following:

- new wishbones a few months back, pattern cheapos
- left track rod (complete)
- strut top bearings, rubbers seemed ok
- while undoing track rod I checked strut rotation and could not feel any issues
- wheel bearings are ok
- tyres: have tried 3 sets
- complete alignment after wishbone job
- pitman arm is pnting very straight
- idler is ok, no up-down movement
- PAS fluid changed (or at least 75% of it)
- no play in steering box with engine running, though ni idea if it is "too tight"?
- right side feels to be ok in all above items when wheels are off the floor

So, if the new lower BJ does not cure it I really do not have ANY ideas what it could be  Hoping for the best but expecting the worst 

[Kevin Wood]

I'd drill out the rivets holding the bottom balljoint on and bolt in a new one. I can't see that affecting the geometry badly enough to warrant another geometry check as long as only the ball joint is replaced, and it needs doing anyway... It might have a tight spot, especially as it has failed early and therefore potentially had a manufacturing defect.

Check the one on the other side carefully, too!

[kcl]

Thanks guys for your help and comments and giving the good spirit to my "project" 

At least I know what I will be doing tonight, another night under the car  And still I love the Omegas   

[kcl]

Ok, weekends (last nights) result. Put the old track rod back because the play was not there and to avoid tracking. Put in new lower ball joint and, so far, the stiff point is gone. The LBJ was really bad. But, as I am not at all satisfied nor convinced its in all good condition I will be watching it very carefully. One note I made: passenger side strut rod nut had worked loose  I opened the top nuts from engine bay just to make sure they are correctly torqued and I found the other side lower nut (tha one actually keeping the shock in place) was loose. Well I torqued it up also (70Nm, is it right?) but now I started thinking that I didi it wrong. I must compress the spring and THEN tighten it, right? This can be done in-situ, right? Do NOT want to remove the strut from knuckle...

[feeutfo]

Top shock mount and spring nuts can be tightened in place, no need to remove from the car. Wheels loaded though. I'd only expect it to knock anyway, if at all.

Although things could get awkward if it came fully loose and the car was jacked up.

[feeutfo]

Ps, how did you get a torque wrench on the top shock mount nuts? The centre strut needs to be heald to tighten it properly, so a torque wrench would cover the 11(?)mill hex on the shock shaft on GM shocks...?

[kcl]

Top shock mount and spring nuts can be tightened in place, no need to remove from the car. Wheels loaded though. I'd only expect it to knock anyway, if at all.

Although things could get awkward if it came fully loose and the car was jacked up.

It was "hand tight" so I expect it not to be or caused any problems.

Always some issues with my car, now I have intermittetly the ESP light on the dash  Only when I have driven on motorway for a good while. Must get the codes read. My "not-allowed-to-discuss-here" -code reader can not detect my ABS/TC/ESP system correctly, if anyone has any ideas for this I'm glad to hear.

[kcl]

Ps, how did you get a torque wrench on the top shock mount nuts? The centre strut needs to be heald to tighten it properly, so a torque wrench would cover the 11(?)mill hex on the shock shaft on GM shocks...?

I did it "vice versa": holding the 24mm nut with a spanner, put torque wrench to the 11mm centre and ratchet "backwards"