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[Petter]

Edit, forgot to ask, any codes present, with a reader or peddle trick, any flashing EML or Spanner light with just the Ing on, any unusual clicking with the Ing on?
[/quote]
No vises whit pedaltrick. There is one clikk when ignition is turned on.
Bateryvoltage only 11,6V. So put on charge noe. Exactly where is the transpondermodule lokated?
Petter from Norway

[zirk]

Edit, forgot to ask, any codes present, with a reader or peddle trick, any flashing EML or Spanner light with just the Ing on, any unusual clicking with the Ing on?

No vises whit pedaltrick. There is one clikk when ignition is turned on.
Bateryvoltage only 11,6V. So put on charge noe. Exactly where is the transpondermodule lokated?
Petter from Norway
[/quote]
Cant remember if theres one or two clicks, Ing on, 1 x Purple relay goes on for Ing Voltage, 2nd Furple relay should then click on for Fuel pump and and Click for the Throttle Body, although Ive had a 3.2 where the later would only click on when the Engine is being cranked over.

Transponder Module is under the Ing. Barrel, plastic covers off, your see it Black Box with a blue connecter going in the back of it.

Whats your other Omega? 2.6 or 3.2?

[Petter]

Edit, forgot to ask, any codes present, with a reader or peddle trick, any flashing EML or Spanner light with just the Ing on, any unusual clicking with the Ing on?

No vises whit pedaltrick. There is one clikk when ignition is turned on.
Bateryvoltage only 11,6V. So put on charge noe. Exactly where is the transpondermodule lokated?
Petter from Norway

Cant remember if theres one or two clicks, Ing on, 1 x Purple relay goes on for Ing Voltage, 2nd Furple relay should then click on for Fuel pump and and Click for the Throttle Body, although Ive had a 3.2 where the later would only click on when the Engine is being cranked over.

Transponder Module is under the Ing. Barrel, plastic covers off, your see it Black Box with a blue connecter going in the back of it.

Whats your other Omega? 2.6 or 3.2?
[/quote]
My otheromega is minifacelift 2.0 .. the X20XEV engine..
if the relay clikk in shuldn't there be 12V on fuse 18? because there are 0V .

[zirk]

Edit, forgot to ask, any codes present, with a reader or peddle trick, any flashing EML or Spanner light with just the Ing on, any unusual clicking with the Ing on?

No vises whit pedaltrick. There is one clikk when ignition is turned on.
Bateryvoltage only 11,6V. So put on charge noe. Exactly where is the transpondermodule lokated?
Petter from Norway

Cant remember if theres one or two clicks, Ing on, 1 x Purple relay goes on for Ing Voltage, 2nd Furple relay should then click on for Fuel pump and and Click for the Throttle Body, although Ive had a 3.2 where the later would only click on when the Engine is being cranked over.

Transponder Module is under the Ing. Barrel, plastic covers off, your see it Black Box with a blue connecter going in the back of it.

Whats your other Omega? 2.6 or 3.2?

My otheromega is minifacelift 2.0 .. the X20XEV engine..
if the relay clikk in shuldn't there be 12V on fuse 18? because there are 0V .

[/quote]


2.0, ok, forget that one, was thinking of an ECU swop, but no good.

Fuse 18, no idea what that is (thinking Fuel Pump possible), if your going to check volts, check them on the relay pins, ie 12v feeding the Relays contacts either side, but I  cant remember if the relay(s) are +12v driven or 0v grounded when activated.

By all means check your Fuses and Fuel pump voltage feeds, but from experience I would say problem could be -,

Crank Sensor (which you have changed) or a associated code that needs clearing.
Transponder Issue.
ECU or Loom Wirring issue, Purple Relays etc.
If Auto, also try moving Shift lever slightly around in P and N, whilst trying to start. 

[Petter]

I have charged the battery, checked the transponderconektion, ECU ground to battery negative pole (0 ohm), changed battery in both my keys, changed Cranck Sensor, tested the fuel reley, moved the Shift lever while trying to start the engine.. still it would not start.. it turns over and all the lights in the dashboard turn off.. only motorlamp stay on when I try to start..And no codes when I do the pedaltrick.... mabye the crankshaftsensor I got is defect?

Petter from Norway

[Andy H]

I have charged the battery, checked the transponderconektion, ECU ground to battery negative pole (0 ohm), changed battery in both my keys, changed Cranck Sensor, tested the fuel reley, moved the Shift lever while trying to start the engine.. still it would not start.. it turns over and all the lights in the dashboard turn off.. only motorlamp stay on when I try to start..And no codes when I do the pedaltrick.... mabye the crankshaftsensor I got is defect?

Petter from Norway

Does the tachometer/revcounter needle move when the engine is cranking?

[Petter]

I have charged the battery, checked the transponderconektion, ECU ground to battery negative pole (0 ohm), changed battery in both my keys, changed Cranck Sensor, tested the fuel reley, moved the Shift lever while trying to start the engine.. still it would not start.. it turns over and all the lights in the dashboard turn off.. only motorlamp stay on when I try to start..And no codes when I do the pedaltrick.... mabye the crankshaftsensor I got is defect?

Petter from Norway

Does the tachometer/revcounter needle move when the engine is cranking?

not much ..only sligthly.. like a few millimeter..
Petter From Norway

[Petter]

   this fault is a mystery to me.. Could the sensor I got be faulty? In that case... it's a pity because I got it from Berlin and it will take ages to get a new one.. 


Petter

[Andy H]

I have charged the battery, checked the transponderconektion, ECU ground to battery negative pole (0 ohm), changed battery in both my keys, changed Cranck Sensor, tested the fuel reley, moved the Shift lever while trying to start the engine.. still it would not start.. it turns over and all the lights in the dashboard turn off.. only motorlamp stay on when I try to start..And no codes when I do the pedaltrick.... mabye the crankshaftsensor I got is defect?

Petter from Norway

Does the tachometer/revcounter needle move when the engine is cranking?

not much ..only sligthly.. like a few millimeter..
Petter From Norway

Cranking speed is very slow so the needle wouldn't move much. - When I have had crank sensors fail the needle didn't move at all.

I think you need to check everything you have done already,
- check that you didn't forget to plug everything back together when you fitted the sensor,
- check that there is at least 10 litres of fuel in the tank,
- check that the big round connector between the engine and battery is securely plugged in and the locking ring is tight
- check that all the fuse links in the box on top of the battery are good
- check that the crimped electrical connections on the big fat cables are good (including earth [masse] straps)

finally - the Omega chucks in lots of fuel for a cold start - might be worth pulling some spark plugs to see if the engine is flooded.

[Andy H]

  this fault is a mystery to me.. Could the sensor I got be faulty? In that case... it's a pity because I got it from Berlin and it will take ages to get a new one.. 


Petter

It can happen but it is unusual for a genuine sensor to be DOA

[Andy H]

Can you hear the fuel pump prime when turning on the ignition?

No nothing, and the fuel relee doesn't clikk inn, so no power to the fuelpump. 

 By the way...I disconected the battery last evening and left it over night to reset ECU, but still the engine would not start..

Disconnecting the battery doesn't clear the codes, you need a good code reader to do that.

[Petter]

As I see it now, after triplecheking everything inkluding cheking the sparkplugs, it is only one thing that can cause this problem... the ECU needs to be reset and all faultcodes removed (even though the pedal trick showes no faultcodes.)
  

Petter

[zirk]

As I see it now, after triplecheking everything inkluding cheking the sparkplugs, it is only one thing that can cause this problem... the ECU needs to be reset and all faultcodes removed (even though the pedal trick showes no faultcodes.)
  

Petter

You kind of can check the Crank Sensor operation but you need an Oscilloscope,what you could try is with the CS disconnected measure 2 of the pins, its the middle one and one of the outer pins, cant remember which one now, your need a DVM though, measure between the 2 pins, it should read around 1K, so anything reading around 800 to 1200 Ohms, with the DVM still connected wave a Steel Screwdriver or something over the Crank Sensor, about 1mm away, it will try and stick to the Sensor so put a few sheets of paper over the Sensor Tip, you should see a very slight change in reading about 50 Ohms or so as the steel passes over the sensor.

I have measured a couple of failed Sensors and the ones I had read about 4 Mohms so almost open circuit, problem is the Sensors normally go intermittent rather than just fail.

From the ECU side of the of the CS, Im guessing (and I am guessing here), that you should see +v and 0v on 2 of the 3 pins with Ing on, the 3rd pin being the Sensor Signal.

You could try the above with your new and old sensor, might give some clue.

Out of interest, and I dont know the answer to this, is the CS in your 2.0 the same type?, if yes could that not be swapped?

If you could prove your CS is ok, then guessing you could move on.

By the way did you do the Key Transponder recycle thing I mentioned a few post up.

[Petter]

As I see it now, after triplecheking everything inkluding cheking the sparkplugs, it is only one thing that can cause this problem... the ECU needs to be reset and all faultcodes removed (even though the pedal trick showes no faultcodes.)
  

Petter

You kind of can check the Crank Sensor operation but you need an Oscilloscope,what you could try is with the CS disconnected measure 2 of the pins, its the middle one and one of the outer pins, cant remember which one now, your need a DVM though, measure between the 2 pins, it should read around 1K, so anything reading around 800 to 1200 Ohms, with the DVM still connected wave a Steel Screwdriver or something over the Crank Sensor, about 1mm away, it will try and stick to the Sensor so put a few sheets of paper over the Sensor Tip, you should see a very slight change in reading about 50 Ohms or so as the steel passes over the sensor.

I have measured a couple of failed Sensors and the ones I had read about 4 Mohms so almost open circuit, problem is the Sensors normally go intermittent rather than just fail.

From the ECU side of the of the CS, Im guessing (and I am guessing here), that you should see +v and 0v on 2 of the 3 pins with Ing on, the 3rd pin being the Sensor Signal.

You could try the above with your new and old sensor, might give some clue.

Out of interest, and I dont know the answer to this, is the CS in your 2.0 the same type?, if yes could that not be swapped?

If you could prove your CS is ok, then guessing you could move on.

By the way did you do the Key Transponder recycle thing I mentioned a few post up.

Yes I did try the key Transponder recycle.. no luck
Today I had a look at the spark plugs they were ok..
I measured the old CS 921ohm
I don't think the CS from 2.0 liter will fit 
I don't have any tehc2 nearby so I have decided to ask the opelgarage to repair the car.. I need this car to bring my kids to kindergarden and school and to get my self to work.

Petter

[zirk]

About to send you a PM Peter.