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[Sideways]

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Any ideas if the bracket for the pump comes of and if so whther I will interfere with anything else if I take it off perminantly?

Also, are there any clever ways of removing the matrix from the cabin side of the bulk head and associated pipework on the engine bay side of the bulk head?

Right, better get back to scrapping all the sound deading lead from the floor. Not the most fun of jobs.

[rpont]

Any ideas if the bracket for the pump comes of and if so whther I will interfere with anything else if I take it off perminantly?

Also, are there any clever ways of removing the matrix from the cabin side of the bulk head and associated pipework on the engine bay side of the bulk head?

The bracket does come off. I think it's three bolts across into the block and one of them is sunk into a hole. I can't remember if the PAS pump is fitted to this bracket or not so check that.

You have to remove the glove box  and take the fan out to get to the matrix pipes but I don't know if the matrix comes out on that side. I can't remember why I had the fan out but I did see the pipes going into the evaporator.

[Sideways]

Slowly but surely.

Got the bracket off that connects the pipe from the bulk head to the matrix.

I'm trying to pull the pipes out of the engine bay and I have the top pipe (the larger one) fully disconnected from all other pipe work to the bracket on the bulkhead itself but I now need to undo the bolt union that connects the lower smaller pipe from the rest of it's associated pipe work so I can pull it out.

This bolt is in a nightmare of a place and I can't think of a clever way of getting to it without removing half of the engine.

Does anyone have any suggestions or experience with this?

Thanks

[Sideways]

Forget that.

A bit of elbow grease, a lot of swearing and a few hours later I managed to undo it.

For anyone else that's interested, it helps if you take the power steering resevoir off to get better access then you just need a 24mm spanner on the larger nut and a 22 on the smaller.

I've now come across another stumbling block but am going to leave it for today.

[Sideways]

I assume the a/c is not working in which case there is likely to be little or no refrigerant in the system. A '94 car should have a compression-type joint near where the pipes pass through the bulkhead, loosen this joint slightly and allow the refrigerant to escape but take care to keep hands away. If the system is still full then you should take it to an a/c specialist to have the refrigerant recovered.
Remove radiator then unbolt the refrigerant connections under battery tray and remove condensor.
Unbolt refrigerant pipes from compressor (needs socket and long extension bars passed down from around power steering pump)
Unbolt compressor (3 bolts at front and 3 at rear iirc) Turn compressor anticlockwise slightly as you pull it forward. It should come out fairly easily once it is rotated to the correct position.
Refit radiator
Buy an aux belt for a 2.0 with a/c and thread it like the later V6 but missing out the a/c pump. (yours might still have the additional aux belt idler which was on the early engines but is removed when belt is changed so use later routing)
Revel in the miniscule improvement in 0-60 time and better fuel consumption.

Why not remove the air injection system also, the pump is quite heavy and once its pipes and the a/c pipes are removed you could hold a dance in the space between engine and radiator. [smiley=cheesy.gif]

Been a while since I wrote on this topic so I won't be surprised if I don’t get any replies.

I've found the air injection pump (took me a while as there have been 1001 other Omega jobs to do) that is quoted and as described, there is a fair bit of associated pipe work. There seems to be a pipe that comes up from it, goes in between the aux belt and multiram system the heads to the back of the engine bay.

What of this can be removed and what negative effects will removing it have? When I do remove the pipe work, can it just be blocked up or will the air need recalculating?

Thanks again

[Marks DTM Calib]

You can block the pipes which conect to the exhaust manifold off and remove the rest.

You do need to retain the vac solenoid on the air injection valve to keep the ECU happy and you should also block the vac feed to it off.

[Matchless]

Ive forgotten, is this a V6?
If so you can remove tha air injection pump, the vacuum operated valve (but leave the solenoid part plugged in), all the rubber pipes and the metal pipe thart runs across front of engine.
You will be left with the metal pipes which lead to the exhaust manifolds, one straight ended, and one with a 90deg end. These have to be blanked off, if you use a 2" long bit of copper pipe and solder a blanking cap to one end it will fit into the rubber joining piece on the end of the metal pipe.