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Author Topic: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..  (Read 4806 times)

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LC0112G

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And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« on: 16 September 2019, 22:01:05 »

Driving home tonight after work, and suddenly a loud banging from the rear started. I initially thought either the exhaust mounts had broken, and it was hitting the underside of the car, or the diff mounts had gone and it was banging on the sub-frame. No point in stopping coz no chance of fixing anything at the side of the road. Every speed bump and pothole makes a frightening racket.

Got home and looked in the boot and the cause immediately apparent. Nearside rear shock has punched through the top of the turret. I think I know the answer, but is there any viable repair?

No time to look at it now - I'm supposed to be going to the USA for two weeks tomorrow so I guess I won't be going to Heathrow in the Omega. If someone could magic up some repair panels whilst I'm away....
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tunnie

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Re: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« Reply #1 on: 16 September 2019, 22:09:00 »

I think Terry had this, no real cost effective option and he scrapped his.

What age/mileage is yours?
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LC0112G

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Re: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« Reply #2 on: 16 September 2019, 22:16:48 »

I think Terry had this, no real cost effective option and he scrapped his.

What age/mileage is yours?

Yes I remember someone here had the same issue. I think the only suggestion was to salvage some turret tops from a good scrapyard car - if one can be found.

2001 Y reg. 260K miles IIRC. Will see whet the local body shops say when I get back. Was hoping to go skiing again in it in December - Got snow tyres on a spare set of rims. It'll be cheaper to throw a few hundred quid at this to fix it than to buy a spare set of rims and snow tyres for a new car.

Things like this always happen when I've got no time to do anything about it. I suppose it's a blessing it wasn't on the way to the airport at silly o'clock tomorrow.
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tunnie

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Re: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« Reply #3 on: 16 September 2019, 22:19:35 »

Recall you can't simply plasma cut this out and weld new sections in, due to being key area for suspension.

Depends how badly it's gone through?  :-\
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Andy B

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Re: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« Reply #4 on: 16 September 2019, 22:23:04 »

  ....

I think the only suggestion was to salvage some turret tops from a good scrapyard car - if one can be found. ....

Would they have to come off another Omega? Maybe another car has a similar set up in the boot area that could donate a suitable turret top  :-\ :-\
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Nick W

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Re: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« Reply #5 on: 16 September 2019, 22:41:02 »

Recall you can't simply plasma cut this out and weld new sections in, due to being key area for suspension.



why not? The welding and fabrication is what matters, not the method used to cut out the rot.


If you can weld, have the time and the rest of the car(body, trim and mechanicals) is OK, then this is a viable and cheap repair. If you have to pay someone to do it, then scrapping it is the likely outcome especially as the shock turrets are not the worst area for rust - the sills, arches and front chassis rails will probably be as bad.
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tunnie

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Re: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« Reply #6 on: 16 September 2019, 22:49:17 »

My mistake, though due to suspension pressures that area could not be cut/weld.

Like you suggest, I suspect sills are rotten, mine were starting to get bad before sorted.



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Nick W

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Re: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« Reply #7 on: 16 September 2019, 23:01:00 »

My mistake, though due to suspension pressures that area could not be cut/weld.

Like you suggest, I suspect sills are rotten, mine were starting to get bad before sorted.


Welding on steering arms is an MOT failure, and it's best not to on suspension links - you'd replace the wishbone and rotten semi-trailing arms are really unlikely on an Omega.
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Doctor Gollum

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Re: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« Reply #8 on: 16 September 2019, 23:33:01 »

Have a look in the US...

The same panel from a Catera will do just as nicely as the Omega one, but they don't use salt everywhere there ;)

Obviously depends where you're going...
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LC0112G

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Re: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« Reply #9 on: 16 September 2019, 23:36:38 »

Recall you can't simply plasma cut this out and weld new sections in, due to being key area for suspension.



why not? The welding and fabrication is what matters, not the method used to cut out the rot.


If you can weld, have the time and the rest of the car(body, trim and mechanicals) is OK, then this is a viable and cheap repair. If you have to pay someone to do it, then scrapping it is the likely outcome especially as the shock turrets are not the worst area for rust - the sills, arches and front chassis rails will probably be as bad.

Sills and rear quarters were completely replaced about 4-5 years ago. As were all 4 doors (don't ask). That's why I'm quite surprised the shock turrets have gone - I'd have expected the body shop to flag that up at the time if there were any issues.

I'll get some pictures when I get back, but it's an elite with working rear air suspension, so when the shock punched through the balloon inflated and pushed the top of the shock up about 4-5 inches into the boot. The air filling connection is about level with where the top of the shock should be. If the nearside has gone then the off side is also due a good looking at.

I haven't got welding O level (or CSE/GCSE/whatever) myself, so I'll have to pay to get it done. However, I think I may be able to get it done at somewhere between 'mates rates' and half the going rate.
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Doctor Gollum

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Re: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« Reply #10 on: 16 September 2019, 23:38:23 »

The actual turret top is a similar size/shape to the knee thigh end of a prosthetic leg. And is spot welded and seam sealed. Ignore the very top triple layered part that has actually punched through, you need the metal down from that :y

Remove the carpet and all will be revealed :y
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LC0112G

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Re: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« Reply #11 on: 16 September 2019, 23:42:47 »

Have a look in the US...

The same panel from a Catera will do just as nicely as the Omega one, but they don't use salt everywhere there ;)

Obviously depends where you're going...

Virginia, Maryland, DC, Delaware, California, Nevada, Arizona. Won't have much spare time, and not sure how I'll get large panels home in my luggage anyway. But if I trip over a Caddy dealership then I'll certainly go in. Trouble is I'm struggling to work out from EPC what the p/n of the panel is. Several possible panels showing on US ebay, some for not much money. But none seem to have a good diagram of the suspension mount.
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Doctor Gollum

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Re: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« Reply #12 on: 17 September 2019, 00:09:37 »

Right, the official repair panel is the inner wing assembly.

The part I mean for you to replace is a subassembly that forms part of the inner wing assembly.

Two minutes removing the boot side carpet and a torch will tell you infinitely more information than the EPC :y
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Re: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« Reply #13 on: 17 September 2019, 00:13:02 »

https://jandrautosupply.com/index.htm

These guys might be able to help...
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Nick W

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Re: And again - I think I may have killed it this time..
« Reply #14 on: 17 September 2019, 00:17:31 »

Right, the official repair panel is the inner wing assembly.

The part I mean for you to replace is a subassembly that forms part of the inner wing assembly.

Two minutes removing the boot side carpet and a torch will tell you infinitely more information than the EPC :y


And remember, you don't have to buy the repair panel. Nor do you have to use all of the panel if you do buy one.


The important part of the shock tower is the hole that mounts the shock - it needs to be the right size, at the right height, at the right angle, in the right place and strong enough. Cars are made from thin sheet metal, so strong enough is done by adding plenty of shape and a thick washer to reinforce the hole. Reverse engineering it from the other side isn't rocket science. But as already mentioned, it all takes time. And time is expensive, whether you're paying somebody else or using your own instead of doing something that you want to do.
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