Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[ajsphead]

Herman's latest trick. Sometimes it'll idle for a few seconds then stall, othertimes it'll idle indefinitely. Sometimes the ICV reacts quickly enough to keep it running, sometimes not. Very occasionally it feels like it's missed a beat while you're driving along. Mostly when it's going to stall the idle drops to about 250 then dead, othertimes it just dies. The only constant I can find is that it never does it on cold start in raised rpm phase.

Manual box.
Paperclip test shows the usual 12 & 19.
ICV is clean and lubricated and pipework/joints are sound.
All the other sensor connections are good.
The battery terminals are tight and clean.
No other wiring has been touched.

The only fault is that the vacuum pipe to the charcoal canister is disconnected as I snapped the plastic lug off the re-breathing assembly where the solenoid is at the back of the plenum when cleaning the breathers a little while ago when I changed the plugs as well.

When it stalls it always restarts immediately and the crank sensor was new about 2K miles ago.

What else do I need to look at?

[tunnie]

Herman's latest trick. Sometimes it'll idle for a few seconds then stall, othertimes it'll idle indefinitely. Sometimes the ICV reacts quickly enough to keep it running, sometimes not. Very occasionally it feels like it's missed a beat while you're driving along. Mostly when it's going to stall the idle drops to about 250 then dead, othertimes it just dies. The only constant I can find is that it never does it on cold start in raised rpm phase.

Manual box.
Paperclip test shows the usual 12 & 19.
ICV is clean and lubricated and pipework/joints are sound.
All the other sensor connections are good.
The battery terminals are tight and clean.
No other wiring has been touched.

The only fault is that the vacuum pipe to the charcoal canister is disconnected as I snapped the plastic lug off the re-breathing assembly where the solenoid is at the back of the plenum when cleaning the breathers a little while ago when I changed the plugs as well.

When it stalls it always restarts immediately and the crank sensor was new about 2K miles ago.

What else do I need to look at?

Was the crank sensor new or pattern?

Either way, thats whats at fault again 

[RobG]

Herman's latest trick. Sometimes it'll idle for a few seconds then stall, othertimes it'll idle indefinitely. Sometimes the ICV reacts quickly enough to keep it running, sometimes not. Very occasionally it feels like it's missed a beat while you're driving along. Mostly when it's going to stall the idle drops to about 250 then dead, othertimes it just dies. The only constant I can find is that it never does it on cold start in raised rpm phase.

Manual box.
Paperclip test shows the usual 12 & 19.
ICV is clean and lubricated and pipework/joints are sound.
All the other sensor connections are good.
The battery terminals are tight and clean.
No other wiring has been touched.

The only fault is that the vacuum pipe to the charcoal canister is disconnected as I snapped the plastic lug off the re-breathing assembly where the solenoid is at the back of the plenum when cleaning the breathers a little while ago when I changed the plugs as well.

When it stalls it always restarts immediately and the crank sensor was new about 2K miles ago.

What else do I need to look at?

That`s not "usual", that`s a faulty crank sensor code
Edit.
Beat me to it Mark

[ajsphead]

Sorry

Should have said that the engine wasn't running when I did the test. Have just done the test again with the engine running. Still showing 12 & 19 so it's a duff crank sensor. It was a new genuine GM part. It's less than a year old so I'll be after another one for nothing. I changed it as per the maintenance guide.

Just wondering. When I changed it the first time there was an oily residue on the end of the old one. It that going to be enough to cause it to fail to pick up the pulse properly?

[tunnie]

Sorry

Should have said that the engine wasn't running when I did the test. Have just done the test again with the engine running. Still showing 12 & 19 so it's a duff crank sensor. It was a new genuine GM part. It's less than a year old so I'll be after another one for nothing. I changed it as per the maintenance guide.

Just wondering. When I changed it the first time there was an oily residue on the end of the old one. It that going to be enough to cause it to fail to pick up the pulse properly?

What was the part number? I recall issues with 2.5's and issues with some sensors. Debs had the problem, anyone remember?

[tunnie]

Herman's latest trick. Sometimes it'll idle for a few seconds then stall, othertimes it'll idle indefinitely. Sometimes the ICV reacts quickly enough to keep it running, sometimes not. Very occasionally it feels like it's missed a beat while you're driving along. Mostly when it's going to stall the idle drops to about 250 then dead, othertimes it just dies. The only constant I can find is that it never does it on cold start in raised rpm phase.

Manual box.
Paperclip test shows the usual 12 & 19.
ICV is clean and lubricated and pipework/joints are sound.
All the other sensor connections are good.
The battery terminals are tight and clean.
No other wiring has been touched.

The only fault is that the vacuum pipe to the charcoal canister is disconnected as I snapped the plastic lug off the re-breathing assembly where the solenoid is at the back of the plenum when cleaning the breathers a little while ago when I changed the plugs as well.

When it stalls it always restarts immediately and the crank sensor was new about 2K miles ago.

What else do I need to look at?

That`s not "usual", that`s a faulty crank sensor code
Edit.
Beat me to it Mark

Too slow

[terry paget]

Sounds like mass air flow sensor to me. I had a similar fault on a 3 litre six years ago. It's easy to check. Unplug the MAF sensor (in the air plumbing, after air cleaner there is a big curved hose(temp sensor), then a short straight hose with a plug - that's the MAF sensor). The engine will still run, but the engine management light will be on. Test drive the car. Engine will drive in default mode. If it does not stall, the fault was MAF sensor. You will need to replace it. They are cheapest on e-bay.

Good luck!

Terry Paget

[ajsphead]

What was the part number? I recall issues with 2.5's and issues with some sensors. Debs had the problem, anyone remember?

The part no. ends 061 This one was stamped GM but IIRC the original was a Siemens.

Any thoughts on the broken connector to the charcoal canister. If it's important in some way I'll happily tap another lug onto it.

Will also check the MAF.

Thanks

[dbug]

Sounds like mass air flow sensor to me. I had a similar fault on a 3 litre six years ago. It's easy to check. Unplug the MAF sensor (in the air plumbing, after air cleaner there is a big curved hose(temp sensor), then a short straight hose with a plug - that's the MAF sensor). The engine will still run, but the engine management light will be on. Test drive the car. Engine will drive in default mode. If it does not stall, the fault was MAF sensor. You will need to replace it. They are cheapest on e-bay.

Good luck!

Terry Paget

Not with a code 19 showing mate - thats a dodgy crank sensor