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[ajsphead]

Thought I'd sort out why I only had 1 group of four elements working on the HRW. Checked for continuity across the whole element, side to side, top to bottom and line by line which was fine, so gave the two contact blocks on the window a very gentle wiggle and they both proceeded to fall off.

I tinned each leg and gave a short press with 40W soldering iron and blew the silver off the window. After lots of attempts and a good thick dose of silver electric element repair fluid I got them all to stay and araldited them over for good measure. Continuity through all four legs with a max reading of 0.2 ohms, which I reckoned was therefore a pretty good joint.

Anyway, relay clicks and no HRW at all now. Only thing I haven't done is checked for live voltage, but I need no rain which is clearly a bit of issue at the moment.

Do I just give up and buy a new tailgate as the line of least resistance (sorry), or does anyone here have a cheaper and lighter solution.

[2woody]

do you want a spare tailgate glass ?

[ajsphead]

Thanks, I wondered about that, but then came to the conclusion if I did the same process on a replacement glass, I'd probably blow the element off that so I think this may be more of a process problem.

[2woody]

well I have a spare if you need

[ajsphead]

Ta, will bear that in mind.

[ajsphead]

Well it didn't work because the heat from the resistance melted the araldite and all 4 legs had fallen off. There is however a solution meeting the tech spec necessary for the application in terms of resistance, operating temperature, curing time etc. MG adhesives 8331 only available in the states for about £30 a pop and better than the loctite equivalent available in this country. It's a silver based conductive epoxy resin with high shear value and able to operate in -50 to +150C so should be fine on a back window. Got some on order so will see how it goes. If it works it's a better solution than a new tailgate.