Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[ettla]

Had similar on my old Elite, car would fire up and immediately stall, with flashing spanner light.

Try starting it with the MAF disconnected - mine fired and ran ok.  Replaced MAF, no further issues 

This tip made me think of something really good! I will definately try this, but as everyone suggests it may be different sensors, i will try to disconnect every sensor i can find at a time to really do everything i can for the least amount of money!

For example if it starts without the maf: the maf is bad etc.

Also i thought of something that gave me some kind of relief when it comes to the ECU being fried because of the regulator failing and spiking the ecu,. Acctually it was only one of the coals that got stuck in the regulator so that the generator totally lost connection with the electrical system, i dont think that that could have caused spiking as the regulater still is in working condition.. Only the coals wore out

[ettla]

I noticed you guys were talking about the spanner light blinking on your cars, in my case it's not the spanner light blinking its the Check Engine Light that is blinking as you can tell by my video.

I would really appreciate if someone confirmed if a blinking check engine light means that the immobilizer has kicked in or not? Because i believe we are talking about different lights blinking here, where spanner and engine lights are beeing confused with eachother. I really need to know if it could have anything to do with the MAF sensor or the Crank Sensor for example... or if it is a Immobilizer SPECIFIC error. That would rule out alot of things 

[zirk]

I noticed you guys were talking about the spanner light blinking on your cars, in my case it's not the spanner light blinking its the Check Engine Light that is blinking as you can tell by my video.

I would really appreciate if someone confirmed if a blinking check engine light means that the immobilizer has kicked in or not? Because i believe we are talking about different lights blinking here, where spanner and engine lights are beeing confused with eachother. I really need to know if it could have anything to do with the MAF sensor or the Crank Sensor for example... or if it is a Immobilizer SPECIFIC error. That would rule out alot of things 

If yours is a 1995 then it probably wont have a spanner light (from memory, its been a while since I had anything that old), so yours will be EML light only (Symbol of an Engine), so the Immobilizer issue will share this with EML Faults, or with what you call Check Engine.

Also looking at your Video, your trying to crank the car with the EML flashing, this kind of tells me its an Imob Issue, from memory once you get an a Failed Start sequence in this scenario, you would normally have to switch off Ing, and remove key away from the barrel (this is where the Transponder Ring Module is), then re insert Key and start a fresh attempt, as its unlikely to start anyway before a reset. In fact on the latter Omega's you may have to remove key, open door, lock door, unlock and re open door, before you can attempt another re start.

Take it you dont have another key with a another Transponder?, might be worth taking the Steering housing off and have a poke around where the Transponder Module is, checking and reconnecting the main plug etc.

Having said all that, a failed Crank Sensor can also produce an failed start, sometimes intermittent, Ive had situations where a suspect Crank Sensors has gone, I jeft it along overnight, and changed main Battery, and found it starts on the button next morning, only to find the CS packs up all together within a few days.

Buy the way, a $10/20 Crank Sensor off eBay is going to last all but Days, Weeks, Months, before giving up the ghost again.

A failed Main ECU, does cause a very simular issue to what your having ie, Flashing EML or Spanner (Cant remember which), although Ive only ever seen this, in the latter 2.6/3.2 DBW cars which have the latter ECU type, so thats not to say the earlier ECU's pack up, but they do seem a lot more robust that the latter ones, if it was me I would put a Failed ECU on the back burner for the time being and concentrate on Immobilizer or possibly CS. 

[TheBoy]

Pic shows its IR type. Immobiliser relay behind glovebox from memory.

It does NOT use the transponder system used on later Omegas

[ettla]

I noticed you guys were talking about the spanner light blinking on your cars, in my case it's not the spanner light blinking its the Check Engine Light that is blinking as you can tell by my video.

I would really appreciate if someone confirmed if a blinking check engine light means that the immobilizer has kicked in or not? Because i believe we are talking about different lights blinking here, where spanner and engine lights are beeing confused with eachother. I really need to know if it could have anything to do with the MAF sensor or the Crank Sensor for example... or if it is a Immobilizer SPECIFIC error. That would rule out alot of things 

If yours is a 1995 then it probably wont have a spanner light (from memory, its been a while since I had anything that old), so yours will be EML light only (Symbol of an Engine), so the Immobilizer issue will share this with EML Faults, or with what you call Check Engine.

Also looking at your Video, your trying to crank the car with the EML flashing, this kind of tells me its an Imob Issue, from memory once you get an a Failed Start sequence in this scenario, you would normally have to switch off Ing, and remove key away from the barrel (this is where the Transponder Ring Module is), then re insert Key and start a fresh attempt, as its unlikely to start anyway before a reset. In fact on the latter Omega's you may have to remove key, open door, lock door, unlock and re open door, before you can attempt another re start.

Take it you dont have another key with a another Transponder?, might be worth taking the Steering housing off and have a poke around where the Transponder Module is, checking and reconnecting the main plug etc.

Having said all that, a failed Crank Sensor can also produce an failed start, sometimes intermittent, Ive had situations where a suspect Crank Sensors has gone, I jeft it along overnight, and changed main Battery, and found it starts on the button next morning, only to find the CS packs up all together within a few days.

Buy the way, a $10/20 Crank Sensor off eBay is going to last all but Days, Weeks, Months, before giving up the ghost again.

A failed Main ECU, does cause a very simular issue to what your having ie, Flashing EML or Spanner (Cant remember which), although Ive only ever seen this, in the latter 2.6/3.2 DBW cars which have the latter ECU type, so thats not to say the earlier ECU's pack up, but they do seem a lot more robust that the latter ones, if it was me I would put a Failed ECU on the back burner for the time being and concentrate on Immobilizer or possibly CS.

Thank you very much for the extensive answer zirk!

You really had the exact answer i was looking for, and after reading your reply all of this really leads me to believe that this is the crank sensor that needs replacing. I want to thank you really much for explaining that the light on my model is of the combined type, as everybody mentioned the spanner light and all i had blinking in my car was the Engine Management Light 

[ettla]

Pic shows its IR type. Immobiliser relay behind glovebox from memory.

It does NOT use the transponder system used on later Omegas

Thanks for the feedback TheBoy, i will look for that relay and test it! Really happy for all the extensive help from everybody!

[omega2018]

The problem is that the car starts only momentarily for one second or so before the engine light starts blinking, but eventually after turning the key until the engine cranks and starts momentarily atleast a couple of times, but sometimes up to 100 times! THEN the car suddenly starts and runs just fine until you turn it off again and you have to do the same procedure all over again... 

i can't quite grasp what you mean by the first sentence, i assume your engine starts and immediately stops and does this up to 100 times before it will keep running. i can tell you the symptoms of my failing crank sensor - just occasionally, maybe 1 time in 10, the engine wouldn't fire on the first turn.  always fired up if i just kept the key on, turning it over,  so i didn't think much more about it.  until the day  when it wouldn't start at all while warm (hour or so after last run).  waited another hour for the breakdown truck then it fired up first time.  replaced crank sensor with a genuine delphi one and not had any of these symptoms since (8,000 miles so far). 

so in your case the symptoms sound different.  may well be immobiliser but doesn't that work by refusing to switch on the fuel pump and wouldn't that give more than a second of running? as i recall pulling the fuel pump fuse gives 3 or 4 seconds running.

[ettla]

The problem is that the car starts only momentarily for one second or so before the engine light starts blinking, but eventually after turning the key until the engine cranks and starts momentarily atleast a couple of times, but sometimes up to 100 times! THEN the car suddenly starts and runs just fine until you turn it off again and you have to do the same procedure all over again... 

i can't quite grasp what you mean by the first sentence, i assume your engine starts and immediately stops and does this up to 100 times before it will keep running. i can tell you the symptoms of my failing crank sensor - just occasionally, maybe 1 time in 10, the engine wouldn't fire on the first turn.  always fired up if i just kept the key on, turning it over,  so i didn't think much more about it.  until the day  when it wouldn't start at all while warm (hour or so after last run).  waited another hour for the breakdown truck then it fired up first time.  replaced crank sensor with a genuine delphi one and not had any of these symptoms since (8,000 miles so far). 

so in your case the symptoms sound different.  may well be immobiliser but doesn't that work by refusing to switch on the fuel pump and wouldn't that give more than a second of running? as i recall pulling the fuel pump fuse gives 3 or 4 seconds running.

The difference for me is that these symptoms exist both when the car is hot and when its cold, it does not matter.

The immobilizer would pull both ignition and fuel.