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391

General Car Chat / Re: Brake Bleeding Question

« on: 29 April 2020, 12:11:11 »

I'm not sure if I've understood this correctly.

If you replace a part like a caliper. Bleed as you normally would, either 2 person manual job or a 1 person pressure bleed. Once you are happy the air has gone. Make sure your brake fluid level is on max and pump the pedal to force the pads out to the discs. Re-check level and you're done.

I somehow suspect I'm missing something here?

This. 

Clamp the flexi hose as near the joint disturbed as possible and remove/replace the component. Then bleed as normal... 

Just remember that the caliper will take some bleeding due to the volume of air being expelled.

Also, if you didn't clamp the flexi, front or rear dependent on which caliper, then you'll be bleeding the entire system then finding a garage/someone with Tech 2 to bleed the ABS block as well... In this case the car WILL NOT be driveable until this is done.

Why would you need tech2 to bleed the system?

392

General Car Chat / Re: Brake Bleeding Question

« on: 29 April 2020, 12:10:04 »

I'm not sure if I've understood this correctly.

If you replace a part like a caliper. Bleed as you normally would, either 2 person manual job or a 1 person pressure bleed. Once you are happy the air has gone. Make sure your brake fluid level is on max and pump the pedal to force the pads out to the discs. Re-check level and you're done.

I somehow suspect I'm missing something here?

If you've pushed the pistons back in,they don't move back in with those one man bleeders, you have to have an assistant pressure the system from the pedal to force them out. If you're on your own you can't do that. I have however just read in car mechanics mag you can get a one way valve bleeder that lets you bleed from the pedal.

https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/7700

393

General Car Chat / Brake Bleeding Question

« on: 29 April 2020, 11:31:14 »

If your system is otherwise fine and you want to change the fluid, a one man bleeder seems to do a fine job, however if you replace a part like a caliper or rear piston, you then need to actually bleed the brakes i.e. until the piston comes back into contact with the disc or drum. Obviously the new part will be set back into it's recess, or placed at a standard position, and it needs to be forced out till it meets the contact surface of the disc/drum etc.

Is there a tool that lets you actually do this job one-man as at the moment you can only bleed the fluid through the new part, using air-pressure on a one-man bleed kit, but not actually push the piston/cylinder back to the contact surface of the pad/disc.

394

Omega General Help / Re: 2.6 Oil Sump - gasket or not?

« on: 28 April 2020, 12:57:08 »

Hozelok if you're feeling flush...

Otherwise any generic garden weed sprayer should do

Should be mention of it in the guide...

Straight to B&Q then and wait in the socially distanced queue!

395

Omega General Help / Re: 2.6 Oil Sump - gasket or not?

« on: 28 April 2020, 12:25:16 »

Any recommendations for the oil filler pump to use when filling gearbox, going to acquire one?

396

Omega General Help / Re: 2.6 Oil Sump - gasket or not?

« on: 25 April 2020, 13:41:13 »

Loandbehold the leak on top sump is now cured, no need to strip it all off.

397

General Discussion Area / Re: Fitting a fused isolator for spot welder

« on: 07 April 2020, 13:36:12 »

That's the plan, I spoke to some guys on the welding forum and they've said shouldn't be too big a job, but am going to get sparky to install it, so he should have a good idea what I need.

398

General Discussion Area / Fitting a fused isolator for spot welder

« on: 06 April 2020, 12:17:40 »

Hi

I've just recently acquired a spot welder 230v rating but need to plug into a fused isolator. My garage has a standard cable from mains consumer unit in house, with a small fuse box in the garage, with 2 fuses. Can an isolator be wired on to the existing supply to the garage or will it need to come from the house CU?

Thanks

G

399

Omega General Help / Re: 2.6 Oil Sump - gasket or not?

« on: 02 April 2020, 18:02:00 »

It's in Haynes

Waste of time doing that to the upper seal.

Better off lifting the engine six inches and resealing it properly as per the lower sump... Although, it's not my car

I would love to do it right given I had more time, it's not a terrible leak, just a sweat. Mainly wanted to get sump off, clean it out, fix dent, paint it and check the pick up, which was spotless.

Don't have haynes for omega so will just have to go with low teens NM.

400

Omega General Help / Re: 2.6 Oil Sump - gasket or not?

« on: 02 April 2020, 17:29:28 »

Yes defo no gasket, i've just removed it, also slid a bit of sealer up the side of the upper pan where it seems to be leaking, cleaned it all out, sprayed some brake cleaner to remove deposits and applied sealer, the proper stuff.

Also anyone know the torque settings for the sump, imagining around low teens 15nm or similar?

401

Omega General Help / 2.6 Oil Sump - gasket or not?

« on: 02 April 2020, 11:43:05 »

I've read there is no gasket for the sump on the 2.6 so got the appropriate sealer -  93165267. Having a look at diagram this morning it certainly looks like there is a gasket, for the bottom pan and the top plate as well? Can anyone confirm as I want to take both the sump and the upper plate off to seal as I have leak. Diagram here shows gasket no 17 for top, and 26 for bottom pan.

https://opel.7zap.com/en/car/v94/e/4/25-0/

402

General Car Chat / Re: Autobahnstormers

« on: 18 March 2020, 08:12:38 »

The forum seems dead now, where's everyone went?

403

Omega General Help / Re: Cannot open bonnet

« on: 20 November 2019, 08:26:10 »

If you've no one to help, lift corner of bonnet above headlight then jam something in like a small screwdriver just to hold pressure upwards, then it should pop.

404

Omega General Help / Re: Brakes crap again

« on: 28 September 2019, 15:36:51 »

Don't use copper slip on them  it is an antiseize rather than a lubricant.
Ideally, you need a heat resistant lubricant for the sliders due to the heat that can be generated ftom the brakes. I personally apply a very light smear of a CV joint grease on the slider pins before reassembly - works perfectly for me when overhauling this type of caliper.

Wouldn't ever use copperslip on moving part. If I've not got CV grease to hand just use normal grease.

405

Omega General Help / Re: Brakes crap again

« on: 26 September 2019, 17:21:44 »

When you freed off the sliding calipers, were the boots intact and did you lubricate the sliders - if so what did you use? A firmer than normal pedal could be related to the sliding caliper sticking again. Worth checking first before bleeding or dismantling the master cylinder.

Quite sure the boot was intact, I think it had just fallen off it's lip somehow, just the top one. I used some standard grease to lube them up. I'll give it a double check tomorrow.