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[Andy H]

Finally got myself sorted a week ago ready to start driving the project and the battery had gone flat

I didn't want to leave a charger under the bonnet with an extension lead back to the house so I went to extract the battery so I could charge it. First thing I found was that the retaining bolt was pretty well rusted in - it did come out though with penetrating oil and persistance 

Second thing I found was this.





I think this car is going to be a little more trouble than I anticipated

[Andy H]

Today I managed to find time to refit the battery.

While fitting it I realised that some of the threads have been stripped in the inlet manifold..







and I still haven't driven it..............

[Ever Ready]

Some nice white crystals there

Stripped threads?  Main dealer serviced no doubt 

[JamesV6CDX]

The plenum came off when we did a few jobs. We noticed a generic bolt had been used in place of one of the plenum bolts. But everything torqued up fine so I assumed previous keeper / mechanic had simply lost one. Are you assuming it's stripped from looking, or are you unable to tighten it?

I can't see the pic too well on my phone, but are you referring to corrosion around the battery? If so, Don't forget the car is 15 years old, who knows how old the battery is. This doesn't in any way mean the car will be trouble, and isn't unusual on a car of this age.

If she gives you serious trouble above and beyond any other old £700 Omega, I would be amazed. She did the 200+ miles back from rog's, and another 200 to you, smooth as silk, and went like it'd been stung. As stated at the time, I was so happy driving it that I offered to go back on the deal and turn around and drive back from Cornwall to Buckinghamshire at my expense if you weren't happy

[Andy H]

The crystals washed off easily enough using boiling water.

Before I refitted the battery I removed the scuttle to see what state the power sounder was in. It looked OK but it hadn't made a sound when I removed the battery so I liberated it as I assume it was ready to self combust.

When I took the scuttle off there was a lonely 6mm machine screw lying in it - I went looking for where it had come from and noticed that three screws were missing from the edge of the inlet manifold and one screw from a cam bearing cap. The first hole I tried was for one of the cable tray brackets and that one is definitely stripped. The second one I tried was for the bracket supporting the hoses to the aux heater pump - that one held. I haven't tried the other holes yet.

The windscreen trim came away with the scuttle and the foam under the scuttle was saturated with water. I managed to clean and re-attach the windscreen trim, apart from the last inch at the drivers end so I expect that the foam should dry out again now. I just hope that the coils haven't been damaged by water again

[Andy H]

The plenum came off when we did a few jobs. We noticed a generic bolt had been used in place of one of the plenum bolts. But everything torqued up fine so I assumed previous keeper / mechanic had simply lost one. Are you assuming it's stripped from looking, or are you unable to tighten it?

I can't see the pic too well on my phone, but are you referring to corrosion around the battery? If so, Don't forget the car is 15 years old, who knows how old the battery is. This doesn't in any way mean the car will be trouble, and isn't unusual on a car of this age.

If she gives you serious trouble above and beyond any other old £700 Omega, I would be amazed. She did the 200+ miles back from rog's, and another 200 to you, smooth as silk, and went like it'd been stung. As stated at the time, I was so happy driving it that I offered to go back on the deal and turn around and drive back from Cornwall to Buckinghamshire at my expense if you weren't happy

James
Don't take this thread as a dig at you - I considered buying this car direct from Rog but it was too much of a gamble for me to travel to Wales in the hope that I could could get it running. You took that gamble and put a years MOT on it and delivered it.

[Andy H]

Fitted a new washer to the drivers door stay to stop the 'click of death'. It will do for now but I really do need to do a bit of welding to hold the plate in place.

[Andy H]

Big thanks to Joff for letting me have an immaculate looking load cover

The load cover fits fine but I seem to be missing some pieces from the runners

Never having seen another Omega estate I am now wondering what pieces I need to complete the jigsaw

[VXL V6]

Yes, there's two plastic 'in-fill' pieces that go in those spaces - the spaces allow you to remove the cover if needed (though i'm sure you sussed that when you fitted it!)

[Doctor Gollum]

Your missing two parts, one each side... basically you slide the cover forward and insert the, er, inserts...

To close the cover, simply pull the handle back towards the opening until it latches into the rearmost slot. To remove completely, simply slide the front roller (nearest the seat)all the way to the back. You then end up with all the rollers in the inserts. To lift it out simply give it a tug as a bundle up and towards you... whole lot then lifts away. Refitting is the reverse of removal, yardyyardyyah

[Mister Rog]

Fitted a new washer to the drivers door stay to stop the 'click of death'. It will do for now but I really do need to do a bit of welding to hold the plate in place.

I always meant to get that done, lazy/tight git that I am 

It's a bit strange seeing my old car here    but great to see it in caring hands 

[YZ250]

.....
The load cover fits fine but I seem to be missing some pieces from the runners
....

The two end pieces that you are missing also hold the load cover in a 'compressed' state for easy removal. As said, you normally slide the load cover rearward until it clicks in to the missing parts. Little red tabs pop out and lock the runner rollers all together for easy removal. You then pull rearward and tilt the front of the missing part up to remove. The load cover then comes out with all of the rollers held tight in the missing parts. 

[YZ250]

Just took a couple of pics of mine.

Load cover in situ


Load cover removed but held in retainer.


Load cover locking tab for easy removal. The red tab was on the earlier load cover, not on the facelift, my mistake.

[Nick W]

Depending on how fussy you are, they have two different textures to match the early smooth, and later textured leather trims. It's not a big difference, and doesn't matter for a piece of trim in the boot.

[TD]

Just took a couple of pics of mine.

Load cover in situ


Load cover removed but held in retainer.


Load cover locking tab for easy removal. The red tab was on the earlier load cover, not on the facelift, my mistake.

LOL, in all the years I had mine, I never knew that was the way to remove the load cover  You learn summat new everyday 

[Doctor Gollum]

Can do it one handed if required 

[Andy H]

Here are a few photo's after the MOT and the valet. As you can see, not perfect, but presentable enough for her age:

Damage to NSF door:

James was recommended a lad to come and touch up the paint. I finally got round to taking some pictures of his handiwork on the NSF door.

How on earth the lad achieved that is beyond me (& how James managed to keep his cool)

[Doctor Gollum]

They say a picture paints a thousand words, but... opps me that atrocious

Bodging 101... always remove the trim  and never spray outside when it's snowing

The scuffs could have been treated differently prior to polishing, and might not then have required spraying at all. Shame really

But nothing a new door won't fix

[JamesV6CDX]

Message incoming

[Kevin Wood]

Crikey! A rattle can from Halfrauds and no prep work whatsoever and I reckon you'd achieve a better finish!

[steve6367]

.....
The load cover fits fine but I seem to be missing some pieces from the runners
....

The two end pieces that you are missing also hold the load cover in a 'compressed' state for easy removal. As said, you normally slide the load cover rearward until it clicks in to the missing parts. Little red tabs pop out and lock the runner rollers all together for easy removal. You then pull rearward and tilt the front of the missing part up to remove. The load cover then comes out with all of the rollers held tight in the missing parts. 

I'd never worked that out, my life will be so much easier now! 

[Mister Rog]

Crikey! A rattle can from Halfrauds and no prep work whatsoever and I reckon you'd achieve a better finish!

It was me that put those scuffs there ( a very tight parking space with concrete posts and a lack of concentration   )

Even with just the coloured t-cut stuff from Halfords, they almost disappeared. That's a terrible job, even I could have done better, and that is saying something.  Ah well . . . .

[Doctor Gollum]

An afternoon spent with some decent cutting compounds and a couple of layers of quality resin polish would have seen them all but removed.

Looks like the Valet place went straight from washing to polishing with minimal effort and whoever painted it did it blindfolded in near freezing temperatures without having first removed the polish.

I suspect a forty years old tin of humbrol enamel with a size 6 brush would have produced a better result.

[Andy H]

I think James had his name on a replacement door, of the correct colour, up in Nottingham but didn't have a chance to collect it before he changed his plans and sold the car.

I have even less chance of making a round trip of 500 miles to pick up a door so I am going to live with it until I decide whether it is less effort to dig out the spray gun or swap the door.

[Andy H]

Message incoming

Hi James
No message received

[JamesV6CDX]

Sorry, busy day - was just to mention there's a possibility I may be up in Nottingham soon, and may be able to assist with relay / partial relay of one of those immaculate £25 doors... by far the best solution

In fairness to the chap who attempted to spray it, when he bumped into me recently,  he said he had an "accident" eg knocked into the wet paint, meaning he couldn't repair it and respray until totally dry, and would have had to come back. I don't recall being told that, and wouldn't have asked him to return anyway.

I have always been honest in as much as suspension and bodywork are not my forte - but I too reckon I could have done a much better job with a rattle can 

[Andy H]

If I can find a way to get my hands on one of those doors I would be very happy.

I am in no particular hurry - the door on the car works very well as a door and I can't see the paint from the drivers seat

[Andy H]

Today I fitted the original MID to the replacement instrument cluster and then drove it to work (20 miles each way).

I like it, I like it a lot. It feels solid and goes well. I won't mind sorting out a few 'cosmetic' issues because the underlying car seems to be a good one.

I am undecided about the suspected wheel bearing noise There were a couple of stretches of road where I could get some speed up and the noise of the exhaust struck me as louder than anything else. Lifting off the throttle at speed seemed to eliminate the noise  so I will wait and see on that one.

[JamesV6CDX]

I'm pleased you like driving it. I felt exactly the same - it's a nice place to be on the road.

Ref the wheel bearing, I also wondered about the noise in the same way you mentioned, however - try sharp cornering in either direction, you will notice when swinging one way, the noise goes, and then when you straighten, it's back ...

[Andy H]

When I got my first Omega (a 1994 2.5 CD manual) I thought the wheel bearings were noisy but the noise was actually caused by the inner rear brake pads rusting solid in the calipers and the inner faces of the brake discs becoming rusty and pitted due to lack of use.

The MOT tester found/fixed the problem by standing on the brake pedal on the roller brake test. There were two bangs, a cloud of rusty dust and he was then able to give me a pass for the brake test

I haven't had a chance to get the rear wheels off to check yet but it feels the same to me (plus I had a near brown trouser moment this morning approaching a T junction - I don't think it stops as well as my 2.6 and I had to press noticeably harder on the  pedal)

[JamesV6CDX]

When I got my first Omega (a 1994 2.5 CD manual) I thought the wheel bearings were noisy but the noise was actually caused by the inner rear brake pads rusting solid in the calipers and the inner faces of the brake discs becoming rusty and pitted due to lack of use.

The MOT tester found/fixed the problem by standing on the brake pedal on the roller brake test. There were two bangs, a cloud of rusty dust and he was then able to give me a pass for the brake test

I haven't had a chance to get the rear wheels off to check yet but it feels the same to me (plus I had a near brown trouser moment this morning approaching a T junction)

That would be a result

Although, if there were an issue with the brakes, I would be very disappointed given the fact it went straight through it's MOT

[Doctor Gollum]

Brakes pass an MoT provided they are balanced side to side/front to back and have a minimum efficiency...

[TheBoy]

Brakes pass an MoT provided they are balanced side to side/front to back and have a minimum efficiency...

Even my handbrake passed first time this year

[EMD]

Today I fitted the original MID to the replacement instrument cluster and then drove it to work (20 miles each way).

I like it, I like it a lot. It feels solid and goes well. I won't mind sorting out a few 'cosmetic' issues because the underlying car seems to be a good one.

I am undecided about the suspected wheel bearing noise There were a couple of stretches of road where I could get some speed up and the noise of the exhaust struck me as louder than anything else. Lifting off the throttle at speed seemed to eliminate the noise  so I will wait and see on that one.

The year before i bought my 2.6 the advisory was rear wheel bearing .. I had my doubts and had it checked at sereks , turned out to be the diff  So dont rule that out 

[Andy H]

When I got my first Omega (a 1994 2.5 CD manual) I thought the wheel bearings were noisy but the noise was actually caused by the inner rear brake pads rusting solid in the calipers and the inner faces of the brake discs becoming rusty and pitted due to lack of use.

The MOT tester found/fixed the problem by standing on the brake pedal on the roller brake test. There were two bangs, a cloud of rusty dust and he was then able to give me a pass for the brake test

I haven't had a chance to get the rear wheels off to check yet but it feels the same to me (plus I had a near brown trouser moment this morning approaching a T junction)

That would be a result

Although, if there were an issue with the brakes, I would be very disappointed given the fact it went straight through it's MOT

Something I saw in Mister Rogs advert set me thinking

'03 MV6 3.2 Auto Est
« on: 26 September 2016, 17:08:14 »
'03 MV6 3.2 Auto Est   NOT Silver !

I bought this car in 2013 at around 75k Miles. I had a HPI check done at the time, I believe the mileage to be correct, at some stage in the past it had a personal plate. Since I got it I've had it maintained well as I need a reliable car and do occasional very long trips. Initiall work was done by an independent, then with a VX dealer, then with an independent again, so history is a bit mixed and certainly not complete. I don't do my own work, so everything was done by a garage.

First, The bad !
I'm in Carmarthen, Wales. So not easy to get to and a long way for most "just to have a look". So I'm going to be brutally honest.
At present it is now SORN
The engine management light comes on and engine misses. This has only happened since I had new coil packs fitted and a new cam sensor. Stupidly I had these done before a big trip to France, but I ended up buying a new car for the trip. I now have a Volvo so the MV6 is simply surplus to requirements. If I didn't have the Volvo I would absolutely spend some cash and get it sorted. I like it.
Some superficial body damage. Scrapes with parking bollards, just paintwork not deep.
Rear bumper, some damage.
MOT till 20th October
The bits around the windscreen (technical term!) aren't fitting properly
Radio/CD player occasionally refuses to accept the CD holder, and the radio doesn't remember stations and doesn't autotune.
A rear wheel is buckled. On the front it was a problem but not on the back.


The Good
It's a great colour, NOT rare Silver ! and scrubs up very well
I still have the original intact cam sensor. I replaced it as I wanted to avoid failure on a big trip
Some recent service/repair receipts
INCLUDES 5 spare wheels with tyres. Reasonable condition, tyres are some good and some not so good
I have a spare CCR 2006, but no idea if it works ok. I actually have 2, but one has some CDs stuck inside so I'll be smashing it up
The tyres on the car are excellent. Not cheapos. Bridgestone Potenza all round.
Due to clunky changes I had the auto box oil changed a couple of years ago. All fine since
No visible rust that I can see, not even the usual on the hatch door near the wiper
Quite a few CCR2006 CD cassettes from various other Omegas I've had
Cam belt and tensioners done at 100k by local Vx dealer. I'll need to see if I can find reciept.


The rules say that there has to be a price, so I'll say £400, but all offers considered.

The car is not really driveable at present, probably something simple.

If there are any questions or whatever PM me and I'll provide email address and/or phone number, also reg No if you want to do some checks. I'm happy to take more pics of anything.

I am NOT prepared to sell parts, it's all or nothing.

I still haven't had the wheels off to check the brakes but when I do I think I will swap the wheels from my Elite to see if it makes a difference.

[Andy H]

Twice now the EML has come on immediately after starting the car.

Both times Scanmyopel showed the code as something like "Mass air flow low input". (I didn't write it down because I had turned logging on in Scanmyopel but I can't find a way to read the log files ).

The battery struggles a bit to turn the engine over so I may have killed the battery by letting it go flat over christmas. When I checked the battery voltage ,with engine running, a few days ago I was getting 12.5 volts so I also need to check out the alternator.

3 questions
Are the 2003 MAFs prone to failure?
Is it likely that a dip in voltage would bring up a MAF code?
Is the MAF in my 2003 2.6 the same as the MAF in my 2003 3.2?

[TheBoy]

Are the 2003 MAFs prone to failure?

Very much so - but get live data on it first before condemming it

Is it likely that a dip in voltage would bring up a MAF code?

I wouldn't really expect that without other errors

Is the MAF in my 2003 2.6 the same as the MAF in my 2003 3.2?

I believe so

[Kevin Wood]

Is the MAF in my 2003 2.6 the same as the MAF in my 2003 3.2?

I believe so

Yes, but the 3.2 is tolerant of an ageing MAF sensor long after a 2.6 has stopped running on it, IME.

Worth a swap, but I wouldn't say it would necessarily be 100% conclusive.

[Andy H]

Is the MAF in my 2003 2.6 the same as the MAF in my 2003 3.2?

I believe so

Yes, but the 3.2 is tolerant of an ageing MAF sensor long after a 2.6 has stopped running on it, IME.

Worth a swap, but I wouldn't say it would necessarily be 100% conclusive.

Intriguing.
It still runs well but the fuel consumption is shocking.  I have done 80 miles in the last 48 hours and the average fuel consumption is reading 18mpg. It appears to be more economical when the EML light is on (but I might have imagined that bit). Performance doesn't feel different to me when the EML is on.

I can read live readings with my code reader but I don't know if that will help me much beyond checking mass flow at idle. Long term trims were both -1 when I looked.

[Mister Rog]

.
It still runs well but the fuel consumption is shocking.  I have done 80 miles in the last 48 hours and the average fuel consumption is reading 18mpg. It appears to be more economical when the EML light is on (but I might have imagined that bit). Performance doesn't feel different to me when the EML is on.

Blimey. Wearing lead boots or something. I never had that, even on short runs

 

[JamesV6CDX]

.
It still runs well but the fuel consumption is shocking.  I have done 80 miles in the last 48 hours and the average fuel consumption is reading 18mpg. It appears to be more economical when the EML light is on (but I might have imagined that bit). Performance doesn't feel different to me when the EML is on.

Blimey. Wearing lead boots or something. I never had that, even on short runs

I too never had an issue with consumption. I got a good 30mpg driving home from you. And from bucks to Cornwall also in the 30s.

Calculated using volume and miles rather than computer.

I also never saw an EML in the 500 or so miles I covered 

[TheBoy]

MAF idle readings would be useful - recalculated to kg/hr. Once off warm up cycle, you should be looking around 13-14kg/hr on a 3.2

18mpg sounds perfectly normal for a 3.2, unless on a long cruise.

[JamesV6CDX]

18mpg sounds perfectly normal for a 3.2, unless on a long cruise.

Really! even between here and marlow (50, 40 and 30 limit roads) I was achieving 27mph from this car. Admittedly only if very gentle. If I opened her up, about 21mpg

[tunnie]

MAF idle readings would be useful - recalculated to kg/hr. Once off warm up cycle, you should be looking around 13-14kg/hr on a 3.2

18mpg sounds perfectly normal for a 3.2, unless on a long cruise.

But on gas?

Fixed multi-ram and fairly standard crappy run to work saw 22mpg from my 3.2 today. 

[TheBoy]

MAF idle readings would be useful - recalculated to kg/hr. Once off warm up cycle, you should be looking around 13-14kg/hr on a 3.2

18mpg sounds perfectly normal for a 3.2, unless on a long cruise.

But on gas?

Fixed multi-ram and fairly standard crappy run to work saw 22mpg from my 3.2 today. 

I never get to drive it now, so no idea what it'd do on gas, I'm going from when I used to use it, and on petrol.  Mrs TB gets around 20mpg on gas, but she only drives a little bit quicker than you most of the time...  ...it all goes wrong, to quote her, "when self-abusers in VWs get in her way".  It used to be "self-abusers in BMWs with small dicks", but over the last couple of years, its definitely VW drivers that knacker her economy


But we know the 3.2 is around 15-20% less economical than the 3.0, so 18 seems to be in right sort of ballpark to me, with the 3.0 being around 22/23mpg on petrol when not on a nice steady cruise.

[TheBoy]

Obviously she uses the real word, not self-abusers. Bloody censor.

[Mister Rog]

MAF idle readings would be useful - recalculated to kg/hr. Once off warm up cycle, you should be looking around 13-14kg/hr on a 3.2

18mpg sounds perfectly normal for a 3.2, unless on a long cruise.

But on gas?

Fixed multi-ram and fairly standard crappy run to work saw 22mpg from my 3.2 today. 

I never get to drive it now, so no idea what it'd do on gas, I'm going from when I used to use it, and on petrol.  Mrs TB gets around 20mpg on gas, but she only drives a little bit quicker than you most of the time...  ...it all goes wrong, to quote her, "when self-abusers in VWs get in her way".  It used to be "self-abusers in BMWs with small dicks", but over the last couple of years, its definitely VW drivers that knacker her economy


But we know the 3.2 is around 15-20% less economical than the 3.0, so 18 seems to be in right sort of ballpark to me, with the 3.0 being around 22/23mpg on petrol when not on a nice steady cruise.

I'm not an expert, but I once had an Elite that I always thought was thirstier than other Omegas I'd had, so maybe a 3.2 Elite is thirstier that a 3.2 MV6 which carries a lot less stuff than an Elite, like no leather seats, fewer electric this and that, maybe less engine insulation. I dunno, just maybe 

[Andy H]

Monday was the first day that I drove it to work. The route I took takes me down to sea level then winds up to about 600 feet over a couple of miles. There is an alternative little road that goes straight up the hill that I don't usually use because it is narrow and covered in cow shit. After getting stuck behind a Landrover at the bottom of the hill I took the little road and I just might have given it full throttle all the way to the top. The average was reading 13mpg when I got to work.

The average improved yesterday to 18mpg..

I didn't drive it today but I will check the idle MAF reading tomorrow .

[henryd]

Monday was the first day that I drove it to work. The route I took takes me down to sea level then winds up to about 600 feet over a couple of miles. There is an alternative little road that goes straight up the hill that I don't usually use because it is narrow and covered in cow shit. After getting stuck behind a Landrover at the bottom of the hill I took the little road and I just might have given it full throttle all the way to the top. The average was reading 13mpg when I got to work.

The average improved yesterday to 18mpg..

I didn't drive it today but I will check the idle MAF reading tomorrow .

What part of Cornwall Andy?

[amba]

I,ve been driving a 3.2 Elite for the past 2 years and agree the mpg isn't great ,but the grin factor out weights the cost imho.

Most days I do a mixture of Motorway/A roads and town and usually get around 23.0mpg.True if you hit the load pedal you will see 12-15mpg but you need to take an average over several 1000 miles to be objective.

[Andy H]

Took my apprentice to nursery and the EML came on straight away. Got home and the code won't clear.

Mass flow with the engine at 93degrees is now 0.0 kh/hr. The air intake temperature is reading 17 degrees so at least the MAF is still connected

What is the recommended source for a good MAF? Main dealer?

[henryd]

Took my apprentice to nursery and the EML came on straight away. Got home and the code won't clear.

Mass flow with the engine at 93degrees is now 0.0 kh/hr. The air intake temperature is reading 17 degrees so at least the MAF is still connected

What is the recommended source for a good MAF? Main dealer?

Bosch MAF from euro parts is 170 plus vat unless you have someone in trade that can get you there discount(its 96 trade)

[Marks DTM Calib]

I hate Euro Car Parts, utter thieves even to the trade:

https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/bosch/1150725

£55 plus shipping but its often best to call them and confirm its Bosch, also get the Bosch code off your original.

[TheBoy]

Took my apprentice to nursery and the EML came on straight away. Got home and the code won't clear.

Mass flow with the engine at 93degrees is now 0.0 kh/hr. The air intake temperature is reading 17 degrees so at least the MAF is still connected

What is the recommended source for a good MAF? Main dealer?

Usually they go lazy, rather than completely fail.  If looking at a £150 replacement, I reckon I'd measure the resistance of the wires between maf and ecm first.

Did you not have a 2.6 you could try the maf from, before spending hard earned?


As for brand, I'd be content with a genuine Bosch, which rules out ebay/ECP/CP4L and the other usual scumbags.

[Steve B]

Got a Known working Bosch one here 0281 002 184 For a 3.2 

[Andy H]

Took my apprentice to nursery and the EML came on straight away. Got home and the code won't clear.

Mass flow with the engine at 93degrees is now 0.0 kh/hr. The air intake temperature is reading 17 degrees so at least the MAF is still connected

What is the recommended source for a good MAF? Main dealer?

Usually they go lazy, rather than completely fail.  If looking at a £150 replacement, I reckon I'd measure the resistance of the wires between maf and ecm first.

Did you not have a 2.6 you could try the maf from, before spending hard earned?


As for brand, I'd be content with a genuine Bosch, which rules out ebay/ECP/CP4L and the other usual scumbags.

I need to have another look at the wiring behind the battery, Something has worn through the sleeving around the red cables dropping from the big fuses on top of the battery and I need to look a bit closer to check for other damage. Continuity tests on the MAF to ECU cables needs to be part of that.

I do have the 2.6 to borrow parts from - it shouldn't take me long to swap the MAFs between them to see if the fault moves from one car to the other.

Do you have any experience of the supplier that Marks DTM Calib linked to  https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/bosch/1150725 ?

[Andy H]

Got a Known working Bosch one here 0281 002 184 For a 3.2 

How much?

[Steve B]

Got a Known working Bosch one here 0281 002 184 For a 3.2 

How much?

Check the number on yours first,If it is the same i will post it off to you..If your happy with it £15+post 

[Andy H]

Took my apprentice to nursery and the EML came on straight away. Got home and the code won't clear.

Mass flow with the engine at 93degrees is now 0.0 kh/hr. The air intake temperature is reading 17 degrees so at least the MAF is still connected

What is the recommended source for a good MAF? Main dealer?

Usually they go lazy, rather than completely fail.  If looking at a £150 replacement, I reckon I'd measure the resistance of the wires between maf and ecm first.

Did you not have a 2.6 you could try the maf from, before spending hard earned?


As for brand, I'd be content with a genuine Bosch, which rules out ebay/ECP/CP4L and the other usual scumbags.

Have you got a wiring diagram for that?
I assume that my Haynes won't have a useful diagram because it was never updated for the facelift

[Andy H]

Thanks to SteveB I had a known working MAF about 3 weeks ago now

Due to work, children, illness etc it took me a week to fit it (I did that because it was quicker than testing the wiring) but I didn't have time to prove it worked. The next morning I jumped in to the car to go to work and it wouldn't turn over - I just got a clunk from the starter and a dimming of the warning lights.

Battery went on to a smart charger and I left it for another week. Battery back in car on Monday (fully charged) and it still wouldn't turn over.

This afternoon I finally got 1/2 an hour to try and do some diagnosis.

After a few more attempts to start it (and much waggling of terminals) it suddenly sprang in to life. While poking around with a voltmeter trying to find a poor connection / high resistance I found a very hot cable crimp.

I guess that was the cause of the problem then



All I need to do now is find a good way to remake the joint (or acquire a good cable with terminals attached)

Ideas / tips anyone?

[Andy H]

Last weekend I cut the overheating crimped terminal off the alternator/battery cable and managed to solder it back on. Charging and starting are much better now

I was hoping (am hoping?) that sorting the charging out would magically improve the fuel consumption so I have been checking the live data.

The first thing that cropped up was an 0420 code. After I had cleared it I realised that I hadn't noticed a warning light. Does the ECU in the 3.2 store pre-codes?

Today I checked the live data again - no codes - but I noticed that the throttle position never goes below 5%. As a comparison I also checked my 2.6 and that does go down to 0%.





Ignore the battery voltages - I didn't start either engine, the 3.2 is still recovering since I fixed the battery terminal and the self levelling air compressor was running on the 2.6

[henryd]

Possible that someone previous has adjusted base throttle settings to mask another problem which is why the throttle pot won't zero

[Doctor Gollum]

Could always swap the throttle bodies to test the theory

[Andy H]

Feeling a bit silly now - squinting at the screen on my phone I hadn't noticed that I had mixed up the pedal position and the throttle position

[Andy H]

I think I will need to start with a breather and throttle body clean.........

[Andy H]

Possible that someone previous has adjusted base throttle settings to mask another problem which is why the throttle pot won't zero

I suspect you might be on to something there.

When SWMBO bought a Golf a few years ago we couldn't work out why the idle was so fast. After some simple fault finding I discovered a faulty coolant temperature sensor. I changed that (and starting improved) but the idle was still far too fast. I eventually stripped the throttle body and found a piece of wood glued inside the gearbox to hold the throttle open....

I will give it a clean first to see if crud is holding it open.

[Andy H]

Could always swap the throttle bodies to test the theory

I could..... but the Elite has been good as gold and I don't want to disable it by robbing parts off it.

[Doctor Gollum]

Might make the MV6 better too... #glass half full

[Andy H]

Having driven the 3.2 MV6 to work a couple of days a week for the last few weeks the average fuel consumption is reading 21mpg. On the same journey my 2.6 averages 26mpg. I can't really say that the 3.2 feels that much more powerful than the 2.6 but it is definitely noisier and less refined

[Andy H]

New MOT issued for the project MV6 today

A few advisories for rust on brake pipes, front wishbone bushes and rear donut bushes.

I really need to make time to give this car some TLC....

[gstylebaby]

   

Just took a couple of pics of mine.

Load cover in situ


Load cover removed but held in retainer.


Load cover locking tab for easy removal. The red tab was on the earlier load cover, not on the facelift, my mistake.

Pretty sure i have a pair of these still in the side trims i stripped out of mv6. What year is yours these came out of a 1998 t plate and look the same shape as the photo ones. I never got round to listing them lol like other parts of the estate and now im stripping my saloon which is killing me but gotta do what you gotta do.

[Andy H]

     i have a pair of these still in the side trims i stripped out of mv6. What year is yours these came out of a 1998 t plate and look the same shape as the photo ones. I never got round to listing them lol like other parts of the estate and now im stripping my saloon which is killing me but gotta do what you gotta do.

Thanks for the offer but I got some from another member on here.