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[omar.sherwan]

Hello everybody,

My Omega engine C26NE 2.6 consuming a lot of fuel not same before and i tried everything i had changed the fuel pump and the fuel filter spark plug also the same and the the engine consuming fuel and vibrating a lot, could you please help i love the car i can't miss with anything else.


thanks a lot to every one and social thanks to OOF  

[cam.in.head]

This could be one fault causing this or a multitude of faults. You need to start with either the 'pedal trick' to read fault codes or a code reader .thats assuming you have got eml lamp on in the first place. Cheers.

[tunnie]

This could be one fault causing this or a multitude of faults. You need to start with either the 'pedal trick' to read fault codes or a code reader .thats assuming you have got eml lamp on in the first place. Cheers.

This won't work on a C26NE, paper clip test needed

Engine vibration, is it miss-firing? Have you inspected all the plug leads?

[biggriffin]

C26ne is straight 6, as fitted to Carlton.

[Mr.OmegaMan]

C26ne is straight 6, as fitted to Carlton.

That's because he is talking about a Carlton/Omega A 

[cam.in.head]

Ah sorry .my misunderstanding. Just saw the 26 bit and jumped in !

[TheBoy]

As its running rough, do you have access to exhaust gas analyser to see if running rich?

If it is rich, I think I'd be looking at CTS, then MAF in that order.

[TheBoy]

Ideally, if you know anyone with a Tech1 or Tech1a, ask them to get live data from CTS and MAF.

[omar.sherwan]

Thanks alot gents,
Regard the MAF i take another one from working fine Omega but nothing changed same vibrating and still consuming more than before imagine 75L per 180KM.

the problem is here we don't have such as Tech1 or better than that here the tech shop will say leave it with us and will find it out and exactly they will change part by part prior to find the issue.

[omar.sherwan]

Yes i changed all the Spark plug its the same after that i feel hard moving the first meter then the RPM go up to 3000 till its move good at 50/60 Km.

what is that CTS?

[Mr Gav]

CTS is the coolant temperature sensor, if this isn`t working correctly then it will run rich and use more fuel.

When you changed the plugs what colour were they? If it is running rich they will be a bit sooty/black, the correct fuelling would have them a tan colour.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Might be worth trying to buy a Tech1 from the internet, if you can find one. They are more or less obselete these days, so may not cost that much to buy a used one ? 

[Nick W]

The vibration and rough running suggest an individual component fault(like a sparkplug, fuel injector, weak valve spring, whatever), not one that affects everything(MAF, any of the sensors, crank pulley, you get the idea)


The ignition system is always the place to start, as it's the easiest to test and cheapest to fix. I would then do a compression test, and finally move to the fuelling system. Most of these can be checked with traditional tools(multi-meter etc) or with simple newer ones(noid lights on the injector plugs)

[omar.sherwan]

Thanks a lot gents for all clarifications Dears,
unfortunately now my car is not working at all once i start it the RPM goes to 4-5 RPM and engine stop immediately
PLEASE HELP  

[cam.in.head]

If you mean 4000 - 5000 rpm without even touching the accelerator then not even an air leak or faulty air flow meter would make it go that high. Remove the flexible inlet pipe to the throttle and make sure the throttle flap is opening and closing properly and that no screws have come out

[omar.sherwan]

Yes exactly without touching the accelerator, i checked the line for the fuel pump is working fine not issues, but i go and check what you said now.

[grifter]

Yes i changed all the Spark plug its the same after that i feel hard moving the first meter then the RPM go up to 3000 till its move good at 50/60 Km.

what is that CTS?

Have you checked no cracks or splits in the big air intake hose at air filter?

Also check distributor cap points and rotor arm are clean as well as brush in middle of distributor is there and is still pushing in and out on it's little spring.

Finally have a look at the securing clamp bolts for the injectors, each one holds down 2 injectors and on an old senator of mine the clamp bolts weren't tight causing misfires and surges in revs.

Did this happen suddenly and has any other work being carried out on it before it had the problem.

[omar.sherwan]

Yes that is right the Distribute cap broken/cracked and spark plug #6 was loss and i figure out that the return air hose was out of it place down , and now the gear box dead i fix the mentioned before parts after driving 1 KM the gear box not working D and Gear #3 only 1,2 and R gear working i check the oil its clean just 4 month before i changed, and now i have to bay another gear box 

[grifter]

Yes that is right the Distribute cap broken/cracked and spark plug #6 was loss and i figure out that the return air hose was out of it place down , and now the gear box dead i fix the mentioned before parts after driving 1 KM the gear box not working D and Gear #3 only 1,2 and R gear working i check the oil its clean just 4 month before i changed, and now i have to bay another gear box 

Did you check oil in box after running car and sitting on level ground after a minute? Sit in car and move box through P - 1 and back 3 times then dipstick after about 30 seconds to check level while still running? It could be low still or wrong oil in box.