Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: 78bex on 11 February 2018, 22:08:59
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when installing the oil filter ???
I oil the o-ring & then screw on the GM oil filter.
Talking to other ppl, some say they pre-fill the filter with oil & then screw it on.
One bloke even places strong magnets on the filter cartridge, good idea :-\
Anyway we`re having this discussion at work, surrounded by my co-workers today & one of the girls says something like; "when I serviced trucks we were taught not to pre-fill oil filters, but fuel filters we did pre-fill" well up to date she kept that one quiet ;D
So what`s best practise ???
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I've always put dab of old oil on the o-ring and fill new filter with fresh oil. Takes a few goes as it soaks it up, my view is if the oil filter is pre-soaked, makes it easier on engine start. As filter would take a few seconds to soak up, possibly leaving to a very brief oil starvation.
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I've never bothered to fill the oil filter on any car i've ever done and found no problems at all with oil starvation.
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Always filled filter and oiled the O-ring.
Just to be sure there is oil in the system at first start after change. Takes like 10 seconds, and can be filled while oil is draining from the engine, so why not.
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I start by wiping down the filter housing and around the base, remove housing and filter and clean round inside, change o rings with a wipe of fresh oil and put it all back together again. I have never ever pre-filled an oil filter and never found a problem but I always pre-fill fuel filters.
Only the Rover V8 is different where you should never change the oil filter with the sump empty unless you prime the oil pump with petroleum jelly - there may be others but that's the only one I know of.
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Filling a virtually horizontal oil filter with oil? No thanks.
It's worth a smeer oil on the O rings. What I was taught, was to start the car up, wait until the oil pressure light goes out and then stop it. Wait 5-10 mins and check the level - top up as needed.
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A wipe of oil on the O ring then fit and go, most of the Omega ones you cant pre-fill (unless you want it to go everywhere)
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A wipe of oil on the O ring, then screw on the filter, and only hand tighten. Half the used cars I buy have filters that have been over tightened, probably by a garage, and that I cannot get off. If the screw on type, banging a nail through the filter gives me enough grip to unscrew it; if canister type I end up breaking the canister and replacing it with the screw on adapter.
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On some engines the oil filter faces upwards so you have no chance of pre-filling it. Based on that, I just smear a bit of oil on the O Ring and fit it straight on.
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On some engines the oil filter faces upwards so you have no chance of pre-filling it. Based on that, I just smear a bit of oil on the O Ring and fit it straight on.
I tried on my old M3 once.. took a moment before I realised the oil I was pouring into the filter housing was just draining straight down into the sump :-[ :-[ ;D
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Smear the seal ring with fresh oil and fill at least half way if possible,then fit
Keith ABS
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On some engines the oil filter faces upwards so you have no chance of pre-filling it. Based on that, I just smear a bit of oil on the O Ring and fit it straight on.
I tried on my old M3 once.. took a moment before I realised the oil I was pouring into the filter housing was just draining straight down into the sump :-[ :-[ ;D
The filter faced upwards on my daughters old Peugeot 206 1.4 (or Vauxhall Corsa 1.4, can't remember which now), so when you changed the oil filter the old oil pissed all over the front of the engine. And what is at the front of this design of engine.... yep, an exhaust manifold. ::) ;D
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That's clever, thoughtful engineering! Or is it just french? ::)
Ron.
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Oil the seal, and fill it to suitable level (3rd full for v6, K series and others with horizontal filter).
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Up until the Desmond i have be doing oil/filter changes since i was19 when i got my first "car", Reliant soft top with the old BMC 600cc side valve engine. ;D. Have never part filled the filter, just a smear round the "o" ring. Can,t get under this one, gettin too old, poor old sod. Now 73. ::) Never had a seize up, yet.
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Up until the Desmond i have be doing oil/filter changes since i was19 when i got my first "car", Reliant soft top with the old BMC 600cc side valve engine. ;D. Have never part filled the filter, just a smear round the "o" ring. Can,t get under this one, gettin too old, poor old sod. Now 73. ::) Never had a seize up, yet.
I have tried to perfect the engine oil change method I use
Like the time I drove a 2 ltr vectra up on ramps & drained the oil & swapped out the oil filter, Jumped in started her up & backed off the ramps, running over the spent oil in the process
Then staring at the oil pressure light & suddenly remembering I hadn`t put the new oil in yet ;D , The engine didn`t sieze, but rattled more than usual after that ::)
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A wipe of fresh oil on the seal and thread, then fit. Likewise the sump plug.
Fill to max on dipstick, then start it and let it idle until the fans kick in, checking for leaks as it warms . Recheck level and top up, typically another 4-500 ml, and call it done. Simples ;)
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Wipe the block where the filter sits.
Smear some oil on the filter O-ring.
screw it on handtight.
And on my car, pouring in the entire 5l can brings the level to just below the max mark.
Filling a horizontal oil filter just makes a mess.
But not filling a diesel fuel filter is asking for trouble.
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On my 2.6 I have to put about 6 litres in to bring to max on dip stick?
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On my 2.6 I have to put about 6 litres in to bring to max on dip stick?
Cartridge filter holds more oil than spin on... Other variables include oil temp when drained and how long it's left to drain for... I suspect that Nick refits the sump plug when the trickle stops.
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On my 2.6 I have to put about 6 litres in to bring to max on dip stick?
Cartridge filter holds more oil than spin on... Other variables include oil temp when drained and how long it's left to drain for... I suspect that Nick refits the sump plug when the trickle stops.
No, I remove the drain plug first, change all 6 plugs, both filters, top up coolant and anti-freeze, deal with any issues and then fit the plug and add the oil. 5 litres fills it to just below the max mark, which is good for a year and about 10k miles. After 8 years of doing this, I just pour in the whole can and go and do something important.
There's a slight dent in the steel sump, but I doubt that accounts for the 0.75l that it's 'missing'.
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Both my long term V6's took about 5.25l to max.
One was the superior cartridge type filter, on was the inferior spin on.
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Wasn't trying to suggest you bodged it Nick, merely that you tend not to extend tasks needlessly :y
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Hi........and just to add to all the tips on this post......if you can put say 250ml in a cartridge type filter its worth it if the filter points upwards and I always put a five litre oil container in our airing cupboard overnight and pour warm oil straight into the engine which ensures that the oil pressure is reached sooner than straight cold oil - just a small thing but any thing that makes that oil light go out quicker is a valuable thing......nearly all the engine wear is created on start up. Ant.