Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: MadMike on 05 September 2019, 20:36:24
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I bought an omega 2.2 a few months back. when starting from dead cold it usually was lumpy as if firing on 2 or 3 cylinders but would run OK after a few hundred yards and was then problem free for the rest of the day.
A few weeks back it was hard to turn over initially (one barrel was full of water), a few flicks of the key and it started with a cloud of steam....
I got a mechanic friend to do the repair (I am of the very old school and know nothing about electronic ignition or sensors).
He did the replacement without disconnecting the exhaust and a few other things by tilting the head to one side, he cleaned the block and head and replaced the head gasket.
He did not disturb the coil pack whilst doing this (assuming all was OK).
As the cams had to be removed to clean everything up I checked the valve timing with him and it looked spot on.
We turned it over a few times and it was totally dead, we checked for a spark and there was nothing.
He then removed the coil pack and it was dripping in oil and water (which must have been there from the old leaking head gasket). We cleaned it all up but there was still no spark. He thought the coil pack had been blown by being immersed in the water so i bought a new pack. there is still no spark.....
Although the air box has not been put back on (or the airflow sensor) he said all the necessary sensors are connected.
Does anyone know what else could of happened to prevent it sparking please ?
The car itself has done just over 50,000 miles being a 6 door Wilcox Limousine that had been mainly used for one purpose!
Prior to this happening most things about it looked almost like new, even under the bonnet.
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I can't see how he could remove the head without first removing the coil pack ???
have you read the codes ?
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I can't see how he could remove the head without first removing the coil pack ???
have you read the codes ?
I have since spoken to my friend since seeing your response and he explained what I did not know previously..
The car was left overnight with the bonnet slightly ajar, it rained overnight and (unnoticed by him) water filled the area around the spark plugs. He replaced the coil pack without noticing the water in the plug holes.
So the head was torqued down late evening and the electrics done first thing the following morning !
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Two likely, simultaneous issues...
1. Coil pack wet or not plugged in correctly.
2. Flooded trying to start with no spark.
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Why are you trying to start the engine before the repair is complete (airbox and MAF missing)
The airbox / MAF won’t prevent starting, but my advice is finish the repair fully, then double and triple check every single connector, is not only connected, but also not transposed with another (it’s been a long time, but I seem to recall it’s possible to mix up a couple of essential sensor plugs on this lump
Specifically check the crank and cam sensors very carefully.
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How did you remove the water from the plug holes before fitting the new coil pack ?
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How did you remove the water from the plug holes before fitting the new coil pack ?
Hi James,
I used a wet & dry vacuum with a small hose taped on the end, then soft absorbent rags to finish off.
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Check what fault codes are present and report back. Pedal trick, if you have no code reader. Since the MAAF is disconnected the fault light on the dash must be on. But clearly something else is disconnected such as the crank sensor or the coil pack. The fault codes might give you a clue.
Also you've perhaps explained the water in the plug wells but not the oil. Oil in the wells suggests cam cover seal failure. And that in turn could cause lumpy firing on startup.
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I am sorry that I have not reported back for a while, my mechanic has had some unrelated problems that have taken priority. Hopefully he will be able to carry on with trying to sort it out soon
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Is it recognised trade smart practice to not disturb the head - exhaust manifold bond to avoid breaking off the studs? I note he did not even disconnect exhaust manifold and down pipe to get better access to the head.
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Is it recognised trade smart practice to not disturb the head - exhaust manifold bond to avoid breaking off the studs? I note he did not even disconnect exhaust manifold and down pipe to get better access to the head.
I've removed heads with intake manifolds installed as well. There's plenty of space to lift the head of a 2.2 this way.
V6 heads are another matter entirely: you'd be crazy not to remove and refit them with the exhaust manifolds in place.
Broken manifold studs are a trvial problem when the head is off.
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Is it recognised trade smart practice to not disturb the head - exhaust manifold bond to avoid breaking off the studs? I note he did not even disconnect exhaust manifold and down pipe to get better access to the head.
I've removed heads with intake manifolds installed as well. There's plenty of space to lift the head of a 2.2 this way.
V6 heads are another matter entirely: you'd be crazy not to remove and refit them with the exhaust manifolds in place.
Broken manifold studs are a trvial problem when the head is off.
Thank you Nick. Most enlightening. I believe Haynes strips down new cars, when everything comes apart easily and cleanly.
To remove snapped off studs, do you weld rods to the broken off studs, allowing the heat to free the threads, then unscrew them?
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To remove snapped off studs, do you weld rods to the broken off studs, allowing the heat to free the threads, then unscrew them?
depends.
A blob of weld on the stud, then a nut hammered over and welded to it, is easier than trying weld a rod on. Not recommended if the stud is well below the surface.
Drilling out with a lefthand drill bit is worth a go. You must centre punch the start, and grinding the surface flat increases your chances of success. As does a simple jig or use of a drill press. Manifold studs are M8, I'd go straight in with a sharp 6mm drill and plenty of speed to help wind out the stud. If it's a through hole, you don't need the LH drill
If you don't get it out without wrecking the tapped thread then it's time for a Helicoil(or similar) if tapping to the next size isn't feasible.
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A friend of mine had same problem. After several days of trying to find the problem he noticed he had put the wrong timing belt gear on the camshafts, the exhaust sprocket was on the inlet camshaft and vice versa.
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A friend of mine had same problem. After several days of trying to find the problem he noticed he had put the wrong timing belt gear on the camshafts, the exhaust sprocket was on the inlet camshaft and vice versa.
Thanks for the input, I spoke to my mechanic this morning & he is hoping (weather permitting) to be able to look at it the car this weekend.
In the meantime I will try and see if that is the problem.
Thanks again
Mike
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A friend of mine had same problem. After several days of trying to find the problem he noticed he had put the wrong timing belt gear on the camshafts, the exhaust sprocket was on the inlet camshaft and vice versa.
Hi again mantamania,
Unfortunately they are in the correct place, so that cannot be the problem.
Thanks again for the input
Mike
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Have you checked what fault codes are present? Try the 'pedal trick', if you have no code reader.
You have told us the MAAF is disconnected. Since the MAAF is disconnected the fault light on the dash must be on. Is it?
The MAAF alone won't prevent the plugs from sparking, so clearly something else is disconnected or faulty. Perhaps the crank sensor or the coil pack. The fault codes should provide a clue.