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[addy]

The new ECT sensor is a FUELPARTS WS1044, which is correct for car using their webcatalog. Would a non genuine sensor be the problem, and is there one that is a better option? Got a new Thermostat on it, the top radiator hose doesn't get hot as quick as it did before it was changed.

Does all the other data seem OKon live data? No throttle was touched, just let car tickover without it.

Thanks again for everything.
Addy

[Enceladus]

WS1044 appears to be for 16 valve engines. The data trace says the engine is 2.0L X20XEV, which is indeed 16 valve.

I see in the data trace that the Intake Air Temperature starts at 29°C and rises to 32°C.
The IAT temp seems implausible, at least for this part of the world at this time of year.
Check and clean the connector.

The maximum coolant temperature is only 80°C, so the engine is still not properly hot.
The thermostat should remain closed until it starts to open at 92°. 107° for fully open. If  it opens too soon or is stuck open then the engine will run cool.
As suggested earlier, disable the radiator fans and check if the engine now gets up to operating temperature. Does that have any effect on the open/closed loop issue?

Your idle speed is varying between 768 & 800 RPM. I would have thought this a bit too fast. Especially with an autobox. Should be around 600RPM
Have you tried disconnecting the MAF? Does that make any difference to your idle speed and open loop issues?

[Doctor Gollum]

Four pot does idle a bit quicker than the V6

[addy]

Sorry to seem stupid Dr Gollum. but do you mean the voltage or temperature is low when you say Coolant temp is still far too low?  What temp should the O2 go into full closed loop?
,
Will be checking connectors for IAT, ECT and O2 and cleaning them with contact cleaner. Would it help if I did live data with MAF conected and data with it disconnected?

Also would a vacuum gauge test show a air leak? Also got a fuel rail pressure tester (what is correct pressure for my car? Also would a pressure test help, with ignition on engine not running, and with engine running?

Sorry again for all qestions;

Addy

[Doctor Gollum]

70 degrees is about twenty degrees too cold.

Which suggests either a lazy start, or you simply aren't allowing the car to heat up.

Setting the heater to the coldest setting will help, as will unplugging the fans... Just keep a close eye on the gauge whilst the fans are disconnected.

Fundamentally though, it sounds like you need a new thermostat. It won't go closed loop until it's up to temperature.

[dave the builder]

70 degrees is about twenty degrees too cold.

Which suggests either a lazy start, or you simply aren't allowing the car to heat up.

Setting the heater to the coldest setting will help, as will unplugging the fans... Just keep a close eye on the gauge whilst the fans are disconnected.

Fundamentally though, it sounds like you need a new thermostat. It won't go closed loop until it's up to temperature.

won't turning the heater to coldest bring on the a/c fan ?  cooling the rad
surely better to turn off the Climate controls altogether ,so the HBV closes 

seems very odd that the engine won't get up to 92 plus degrees when standing ,bonnet closed ,idling
wondering if there is a blockage of gunk from the blown HG,or air lock on the coolant bridge
does coolant pour out if you unscrew the coolant temp sensor Mr Addy ?
that said ,the dash sensor is showing too cold ,but that's on the coolant bridge too

sorry to hear you've not been well ,hope YOU and the omega have a speedy recovery get well soon 

one thing you could try ,plug the old coolant sensor in the loom ,engine running,look at live data and warm the sensor up manually (lighter ) see if you get 90+ and closed loop etc
obviously taking care of moving parts etc

[addy]

Have just replaced the old thermostat with a CIRCOLI one. the thermostat is part of the thermostat housing, like the old one taken off.

dave the builder, yes water did come out of the hole when took out old ECT. I cleaned all waterways when the head was off using Industrial Vacuum cleaner. But the coolant that came out when the head was off was clean.

Am going to start car and leave it running from cold until the fans come on, while recording live data. To see what happens, then turn off car and undo fans and do the same with live data.

The car is prefacelift with manual heater control. So I turned it too off on the blower setting and cold on the temp control.

Thanks everyone for the wishes.

Addy

[Doctor Gollum]

Was going to say it's a Pre climate car

Turning the heater to cold effectively shuts off the feed to the heater, thereby keeping the heat in the engine.

Test as you have described and report back. 

[addy]

Thanks for the reply Dr Gollum. Will report back. Checked about new thermostat, it says OPENING TEMPERATURE 92 °C. Checked if it was correct one for engine before purchasing it.

Hopefully can get out to check data in the morning. Was given strict instructions by she who must be obeyed, that I wasn't to go under car or do any mechanical work, until she got back but letting engine warm up, with laptop connected isn't going to hurt.

[addy]

Well did test today. Outside temp was showing 7c display. Checked Metoffice said temp was around that. The test was done from turning car on, that is why livedata, shows no rpm at first. The MAF was not conected throught the test. Fans were still conected.

Watching Dash temp display and data this is what I got

First time fans came on.
The dash was half way between the 90 and 100 on the solid line.
Live data for coolant shows fans kicked in at 88c
Fans went off at 80c on live data. Dash showed as 90

Second time fans came on.
Fans on at 89c shown on live data.
Dash was half way between 90 and 100 on the solid line.
Fans went off at 80c on live data, Dash was showing 90

Link to live Data
https://drive.google.com/open?id=10lL3xsBL4V4JdBvFHg5V3KLW-r5mACvp

[addy]

I refered to the link showing voltages for coolant temp sensor.

http://www.topbuzz.co.uk/maintenance/cts/cts.htm

If I am reading corect, according to that at 20c my temp sensor is only showing 10c on the live data? But wouldn't that mean that the fans should come on at nearly 100c if their is a 10c difference?

Or am i reading it wrong.

Thanks
Addy

[Doctor Gollum]

It does go closed loop eventually. Fans kick in a bit low though and are completely independent of the dash gauge.

I was going to suggest replacing the Ecu temp sender, but that seems to be working just fine, the reference voltage drops as the resistance increases with temperature, and it is line with the gauge sender/display.

I would suggest a replacement fan switch on the radiator as the next step and report back.

Unplugging the fans and repeating today's test will confirm this before replacing the switch, but switch the engine off as soon as the ecu sees 95 degrees to avoid damage.

Do not, under any circumstances reconnect the fans if you disable them by unplugging, as they will spin up instantly... Fingers are useful 

[addy]

Will do no fan data test hopefully in a while if engine cool enough, otherwise will do it in morning. Shall I reconnect MAF for this test? Is there a relay for the fans, that can be removed or would sensor connector be better?

Is the IAT sensor showing OK as it says 18c with engine off, the temp at that time was roughly 7c outside?

Thanks for all the help.

[Doctor Gollum]

Not sure if the MAF will have any bearing on O2 sensor behaviour 

But if unplugged for today's test, then leave it unplugged for consistency 

Being brass, the sensor will retain heat above residual air temperature. The V6 retains enough heat to warm a small village 

[addy]

The engine is 2ltr 16Valve, that is causing problems. My other Omega is a 2.6 and as you say the heat off that is amazing.

Will keep MAF off as you suggest.