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[Pitchfork]

Cillit Bang
Hi, Remember me? I'm BARRY SCOTT
CAN YOU HEAR ME OR SHOULD I SHOUT?
According to this month's Which Magazine (other publications are available) Anthony Worell-Thompson's brand of limescale remover comes our best in tests
The problem is that all of the different brands of similar cleaners come in relatively small spray type packages so if it would work, you would have to empty the conents of quite a few into the cooling system

[Marks DTM Calib]

Im still puzzling over this one the bit that doesent make sense is it can be left ticking over for hours or cruising as long as you like and it doesent over heat, as soon as you have been booting it for five mins it gets hot  then if you cruise agin it cools down, so to me headgasket doesent fit the bill, its more of a flow problem,either not enough flow or the heat exchange fromthe rad is not enough when boosting, the only thing that you havent done is improve the airflow through the rad by removing the aircon rad and there is no guarantee thats going to work!!! think as said the viscous isnt going to help when doing high speed but it will help cool the whole thing down at lower speeds,
what happend when you last swapped the drilled stat ? cos the only thing that seems to fit is the stat is causing a restriction in the flow? assuming you havent got a collapsed or seperated hose somewhere in the system,
having the heater on makes a difference againnpoints to a flow problem and the heater helps to improve the flow? does that make sense? the later ones have a hbv dont they? whereas the early ones dont, wwondr if its possible to get that out of the system and try it then?

Hence like I said....my next port of call would be to remove all hoses, flush them and inspect them and reverse flush the block with the water pump removed....

[smoothomega]

Hi TB.
 Been reading through this thread and just a couple of things to add. If you want to clear the lime scale etc from the engine then as i have mentioned in another thread there is nothing better in my mind than central heating cleaner (fernox) i have used this to great effect on other cars and you would not beleave the amount of crap it removes. Secondly it may be worth trying a product called "water wetter" which it claims to lower the temp in the cooling system by several degrees by chemically removing the heat. Buggered if i know how it works but it may be worth a try. I have seen it on ebay and if you type it into google it will find it for you. Hope this is of some help to you and i will keep an eye open for any results.
Cheers, Jez.

I now have some Forte stuff to try. Then may try fernox. How would I use fernox? - put some in (how much) and do a few miles (how many?). Or just flush with fernox?

Hi TB
Sorry i never replied last night. In the past when iv'e used fernox i have added it one day and let it get round the engine by making sure the stat has opened and then let it get to work during the night and flushed the following day. I have never used nutraliser, i think this is added to the existing mixture, i have just flushed and refilled the system. Hope this helps.  
Cheers, Jez

[Omegatoy]

Im still puzzling over this one the bit that doesent make sense is it can be left ticking over for hours or cruising as long as you like and it doesent over heat, as soon as you have been booting it for five mins it gets hot  then if you cruise agin it cools down, so to me headgasket doesent fit the bill, its more of a flow problem,either not enough flow or the heat exchange fromthe rad is not enough when boosting, the only thing that you havent done is improve the airflow through the rad by removing the aircon rad and there is no guarantee thats going to work!!! think as said the viscous isnt going to help when doing high speed but it will help cool the whole thing down at lower speeds,
what happend when you last swapped the drilled stat ? cos the only thing that seems to fit is the stat is causing a restriction in the flow? assuming you havent got a collapsed or seperated hose somewhere in the system,
having the heater on makes a difference againnpoints to a flow problem and the heater helps to improve the flow? does that make sense? the later ones have a hbv dont they? whereas the early ones dont, wwondr if its possible to get that out of the system and try it then?

Hence like I said....my next port of call would be to remove all hoses, flush them and inspect them and reverse flush the block with the water pump removed....

SOUNDS LIKE A PLAN DUDE!!

[TheBoy]

Im still puzzling over this one the bit that doesent make sense is it can be left ticking over for hours or cruising as long as you like and it doesent over heat, as soon as you have been booting it for five mins it gets hot  then if you cruise agin it cools down, so to me headgasket doesent fit the bill, its more of a flow problem,either not enough flow or the heat exchange fromthe rad is not enough when boosting, the only thing that you havent done is improve the airflow through the rad by removing the aircon rad and there is no guarantee thats going to work!!! think as said the viscous isnt going to help when doing high speed but it will help cool the whole thing down at lower speeds,
what happend when you last swapped the drilled stat ? cos the only thing that seems to fit is the stat is causing a restriction in the flow? assuming you havent got a collapsed or seperated hose somewhere in the system,
having the heater on makes a difference againnpoints to a flow problem and the heater helps to improve the flow? does that make sense? the later ones have a hbv dont they? whereas the early ones dont, wwondr if its possible to get that out of the system and try it then?

Neither of the 2 main hoses from rad to block seem to be blocked or likely to collapse.  These are the hoses, I believe, that do all the cooling.

The HBV on this is a simple on/off with just and in and out, unlike the 3 port ones on V6. It simply cuts off flow to the heater matrix.....

[Elite Pete]

Hi TB.
 Been reading through this thread and just a couple of things to add. If you want to clear the lime scale etc from the engine then as i have mentioned in another thread there is nothing better in my mind than central heating cleaner (fernox) i have used this to great effect on other cars and you would not beleave the amount of crap it removes. Secondly it may be worth trying a product called "water wetter" which it claims to lower the temp in the cooling system by several degrees by chemically removing the heat. Buggered if i know how it works but it may be worth a try. I have seen it on ebay and if you type it into google it will find it for you. Hope this is of some help to you and i will keep an eye open for any results.
Cheers, Jez.

I now have some Forte stuff to try. Then may try fernox. How would I use fernox? - put some in (how much) and do a few miles (how many?). Or just flush with fernox?

Hi TB
Sorry i never replied last night. In the past when iv'e used fernox i have added it one day and let it get round the engine by making sure the stat has opened and then let it get to work during the night and flushed the following day. I have never used nutraliser, i think this is added to the existing mixture, i have just flushed and refilled the system. Hope this helps.  
Cheers, Jez

After reading the previous post by Jez about using Fernox. I put it in the Elite when I did the cambelt, I had the rad out for a flush and I pressure washed the aircon condenser from the engine bay out. I was suprised at the about of turd the Fernox shifted and the car runs a lot cooler now. I was in the local scrap yard on Wednesday and theres a 98 Omega diseasel there if you need anything

[TheBoy]

Im still puzzling over this one the bit that doesent make sense is it can be left ticking over for hours or cruising as long as you like and it doesent over heat, as soon as you have been booting it for five mins it gets hot  then if you cruise agin it cools down, so to me headgasket doesent fit the bill, its more of a flow problem,either not enough flow or the heat exchange fromthe rad is not enough when boosting, the only thing that you havent done is improve the airflow through the rad by removing the aircon rad and there is no guarantee thats going to work!!! think as said the viscous isnt going to help when doing high speed but it will help cool the whole thing down at lower speeds,
what happend when you last swapped the drilled stat ? cos the only thing that seems to fit is the stat is causing a restriction in the flow? assuming you havent got a collapsed or seperated hose somewhere in the system,
having the heater on makes a difference againnpoints to a flow problem and the heater helps to improve the flow? does that make sense? the later ones have a hbv dont they? whereas the early ones dont, wwondr if its possible to get that out of the system and try it then?

Hence like I said....my next port of call would be to remove all hoses, flush them and inspect them and reverse flush the block with the water pump removed....

Which I did a week ago using a hose into the water outlet, and pump removed. Water came through clear.  Left it running a while, to see if it would shift anything, but it didn't.  As far as I can see, the 2 big hoses from rad to block are fine.  I don't think the other hoses which seem to be related to heater play any real part in cooling?

[TheBoy]

Used the Forte coolant stuff now, doesn't look like its made a difference


Where do I get Fernox - somewhere like Wicks/B&Q, or a proper plumbers merchant?

[Elite Pete]

Used the Forte coolant stuff now, doesn't look like its made a difference


Where do I get Fernox - somewhere like Wicks/B&Q, or a proper plumbers merchant?

Got mine from B&Q

[Dave-C]

TB remind me, is it a manual or an auto?

DaveC

[TheBoy]

TB remind me, is it a manual or an auto?

DaveC

Auto

[Dave-C]

On a previous thread I posted my overheating problems when towing with my auto....  My petrol runs at about 96c normal conditions, but, on several occasions when towing, even with an ambient temp of less than freezing, it still overheated,,,  red light on and all!!!!  I'm contemplating changing the gerbox fluid n' filter....  Just wondering if the old original Dex II is not disipating the heat properly and thus causing the radiator to heat up off the condensor......

Do you think that this may be an issue!!!  Anyone??

Dave C

[TheBoy]

On a previous thread I posted my overheating problems when towing with my auto....  My petrol runs at about 96c normal conditions, but, on several occasions when towing, even with an ambient temp of less than freezing, it still overheated,,,  red light on and all!!!!  I'm contemplating changing the gerbox fluid n' filter....  Just wondering if the old original Dex II is not disipating the heat properly and thus causing the radiator to heat up off the condensor......

Do you think that this may be an issue!!!  Anyone??

Dave C

Unlikely I would say.....

[Dave-C]

Must be honest,  Had a 2.8 Granny auto in the 80's and a 2.9 in the 90's, they had a cooler built into the radiator, advice for towing was to fit an extra cooler because the hotter the box got it had reflection on the running temp of the engine...  hence the rad wouldn't cool the dexII properly and thus blow the seals in the box.... (Viscous Circle   )  I know I've diversified from the thread...  but, gut feeling drives me....  Best of luck with this one, I'll be watching this thread closely....  Please keep us posted...

Dave C

[Marks DTM Calib]

But remember that the OMEGA should have Dex III in it....not Dex II