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[Kevin Wood]

Sounds like you've dodged a bullet there.

[Kevin Wood]

Regarding the cam belt fitting, earlier 2.5/3.0 engines both idler pulleys are eccentric and need to be adjusted. On the 2.6/3.2 only the top one between the heads requires adjustment.

If you are doing this for the first time, I'd recommend watching the DVD available from the OOF shop, as it's a difficult procedure to explain (and Haynes do a particularly bad job, so don't follow that whatever you do.)

The procedure depends if you have the earlier or later engine, anf if your belt has timing marks printed on it.

[maracus]

Sounds like you've dodged a bullet there.

I watched the matrix lol

The idler/tensioner pulley Carrier is marked EB and it's the 3.0 ltr if that answers that one- no marks on the belt only a barcode and product info. The impression I got was that you fit the (backplate+tensioner+idler) and the lower idler, fit belt, turn and set idlers to the least slack position (to take up excessive belt slack???) then set the tensioner by holding in position with the Allen hole and tighten the 13mm bolt.

Simples???

[maracus]

...or not.

All well and good until I removed the camshaft locks. They went in easy but were a right pig to pull out. Got them out eventually with some persuasion, but the left bank inlet cam is now clearly a tooth out. It wasn't before. So unless I put the locks in upside down (they weren't marked 'top') I'm well baffled.

Turns over ok though by hand but I bet it would run like a sack of sh!te??

[Andy H]

If the cam locks don't slide in/out easily then that is the time to stop & recheck everything.

My guess is that there was no tension on the belt between cam 2 and cam 3 (probably because it was a tooth out)

[maracus]

If the cam locks don't slide in/out easily then that is the time to stop & recheck everything.

My guess is that there was no tension on the belt between cam 2 and cam 3 (probably because it was a tooth out)

Thats what I can't understand why. I must have put the locks in upside down, they would only go in one way and the marks all lined up properly to start with.. I don't think the tools had locked properly as a result. So the pulleys moved enough to knock it out a tooth. Maybe I just didn't try hard enough to get them in the 'right' way.

When I went to remove them you could see they were badly meshed with the cam pulleys.

Tensions all seem spot on tho so I reckon I got something right lol and if it was down to them being wrong before, it would have been a tooth out already?

Fook knows but I'm going to pull it all off and start again tomorrow, with the drivers side bank locked, bottom pulley locked and reset the passenger side by hand (urgghhhhh!!!)

[albitz]

Which make of locking tools are you using ?

[Andy H]

If the cam locks don't slide in/out easily then that is the time to stop & recheck everything.

My guess is that there was no tension on the belt between cam 2 and cam 3 (probably because it was a tooth out)

Thats what I can't understand why. I must have put the locks in upside down, they would only go in one way and the marks all lined up properly to start with.. I don't think the tools had locked properly as a result. So the pulleys moved enough to knock it out a tooth. Maybe I just didn't try hard enough to get them in the 'right' way.

When I went to remove them you could see they were badly meshed with the cam pulleys.

Tensions all seem spot on tho so I reckon I got something right lol and if it was down to them being wrong before, it would have been a tooth out already?

Fook knows but I'm going to pull it all off and start again tomorrow, with the drivers side bank locked, bottom pulley locked and reset the passenger side by hand (urgghhhhh!!!)

With care you should be able to turn the crank until the marks on the left bank line up with the notches in the back plate, slide the cam lock in, and then wind the crank back one tooth so the right bank lines up & slide the other lock in.

(you might need to hold the belt in place on cam 3 and turn cam 3 back by hand as the tension comes off the belt)

Whatever you do don't release the cams unless/until the crank is turned back to 30 deg BTDC to avoid valves touching pistons.

[maracus]

Which make of locking tools are you using ?

The ones Autovaux send out. They don't look like the GM kit I've seen pictures of- no plastic handles on the camshaft keys and the timing plate thing looks different. I've read that the camshaft keys should go in, paying attention to the 'top' Mark being at the top. These have no markings whatsoever.

Had enough for tonight lol

[aaronjb]

Do they look like this: http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3401134.htm ?

[maracus]

Do they look like this: http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3401134.htm ?

Pretty much, yes. Just in a stumpy square box not a long one like that.

Bugger 45 squid. By the time Autovaux get this kit back I'd only be £15 out from buying that one!!

[albitz]

Be glad that it isnt that one.Thats a Laser kit and they dont have a very good reputation for accuracy.Thats why I asked the question,in case you were using one of those.

[aaronjb]

Beaten to it - what Albs said

[maracus]

Be glad that it isnt that one.Thats a Laser kit and they dont have a very good reputation for accuracy.Thats why I asked the question,in case you were using one of those.

"laser" that's the name I was thinking of; I had a laser item a while ago for my 1800 ECOTEC.

It was pants. Ended up doing my nut so I threw it on the bench and done it by hand. Much easier.

This kit looks very "laser" to me and lacks any kind of branding labelling.

[aaronjb]

Sykes Pikavant has a better reputation if I recall correctly? Although looking at their catalogue, the kit looks identical to the Laser one.. so maybe I mis-remembered that