16
General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 05 April 2024, 17:00:38 »
Piston
- 16 April 2024, 13:50:02
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News:
Please play nicely. No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....
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20
Omega General Help / Re: Plenum chamber needed , 3.2
« on: 04 April 2024, 14:47:32 »
The 2.6 is the same as all 3.2's...I think any confusion here is the difference between the earlier 2.5 and the 3.0.
21
Omega General Help / Re: Plenum chamber needed , 3.2
« on: 04 April 2024, 00:15:10 »
I've got a spare plenum from a 3.2 if you want to.pm me 
23
Omega General Help / Re: Micksgarage and cheap wishbones
« on: 03 April 2024, 20:46:30 »The spring with LR is a genuine GM spring for estate models with s/l suspension. Personally, if the s/l suspension was still operable with the genuine s/l shocks, then the ride height will be correct and if LH and RH are a matched pair, I would have kept them, rather than fitting aftermarket springs.
Never done it, as I like to keep my cars 'original', but the recommendation is to fit standard springs and shocks with the s/l disconnected.
Incidentally, a friend of mine fitted ATP wishbones, but they didn't last any time at all with premature bush failure.
That's interesting, I saw on another thread someone mentioned LK springs were for self-leveling so I assumed LR was a standard spring (never make assumptions!)
I like originality too wherever possible, but as I already have standard shocks fitted on the back I guess it makes sense to fit some standard springs to match them. In fact I think the rear shocks are a bit tired but I doubt I'll find any self-leveling ones to replace them with, certainly not on a tight budget.
You are correct Jim - LK are also estate s/l rear springs, but for a different era of chassis nos, although I cannot remember which. I have a pair nearly new GM LK springs that came off a late f/l ex police estate. When I found it in the breakers, it had had very recent complete new front strut assemblies, new wishbones, new rear s/l shocks and rear springs - all GM, but was scrapped presumeably due to at the time recent minor front end damage. Needless to say I removed and bought the lot for relatively little money!!
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Omega General Help / Re: Micksgarage and cheap wishbones
« on: 03 April 2024, 20:07:56 »
The spring with LR is a genuine GM spring for estate models with s/l suspension. Personally, if the s/l suspension was still operable with the genuine s/l shocks, then the ride height will be correct and if LH and RH are a matched pair, I would have kept them, rather than fitting aftermarket springs.
Never done it, as I like to keep my cars 'original', but the recommendation is to fit standard springs and shocks with the s/l disconnected.
Incidentally, a friend of mine fitted ATP wishbones, but they didn't last any time at all with premature bush failure.
Never done it, as I like to keep my cars 'original', but the recommendation is to fit standard springs and shocks with the s/l disconnected.
Incidentally, a friend of mine fitted ATP wishbones, but they didn't last any time at all with premature bush failure.
25
Omega General Help / Re: Micksgarage and cheap wishbones
« on: 03 April 2024, 19:34:26 »
I'm glad to hear that! You can see at the top of that photo where the inner side wall had been rubbing against the strut. Apart from the safety aspect and the excessive wear to rhe sidewall, the handling must have been pretty dire prior to having alignment done...
26
Omega General Help / Re: Micksgarage and cheap wishbones
« on: 03 April 2024, 17:24:36 »
Is it me, or is the edge of the tyre / rim on the first photo unusually close to, or even in contact with the front strut?
27
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Central locking inoperative using key fob.
« on: 03 April 2024, 10:56:46 »
Thanks TB. I'll post how I go on...
28
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Central locking inoperative using key fob.
« on: 02 April 2024, 23:58:56 »
Well, I had both keys from the problem car checked in front of my own eyes - both keys transmitted a signal from all 3 buttons.
Which led me to think that the original ECU may have actually been affected by water ingress (possibly?). Perhaps a gluten for punishment, but I decided to throughly but gently clean all the contacts for the connector block on the 'problem' ecu. Refitted it, and hey presto, the c/locking worked with both original keys as did the boot release. Tried it umpteen times and all was well. Even the interior light behaved itself and went out as it should
Cracked it I thought. Although the c/l was working ok, unfortunately, the interior light issue came back and refused to go out, and then the alarm decided to keep going off, and even disconnecting the battery within the 15 secs after switching the ignition off, refused to silence it. After approx an hour of alarm activations, it just stopped, but the interior light refused to go out. It eventually did after about a further hour, but after another 15 mins or so came back on without me even going near it
It the went out again and as I write this is stil out....
I think the next thing is to put the c/l ecu from the donor car back in, and see if the interior light and alarm gremlins come back. If not, then the original ECU must be faulty - surely (?) - if they continue, I'll have to look elsewhere.....but where?
I was just curious really when the keys found to be working ok, whether the original ecu would work too.....
To be continued..
Which led me to think that the original ECU may have actually been affected by water ingress (possibly?). Perhaps a gluten for punishment, but I decided to throughly but gently clean all the contacts for the connector block on the 'problem' ecu. Refitted it, and hey presto, the c/locking worked with both original keys as did the boot release. Tried it umpteen times and all was well. Even the interior light behaved itself and went out as it should
Cracked it I thought. Although the c/l was working ok, unfortunately, the interior light issue came back and refused to go out, and then the alarm decided to keep going off, and even disconnecting the battery within the 15 secs after switching the ignition off, refused to silence it. After approx an hour of alarm activations, it just stopped, but the interior light refused to go out. It eventually did after about a further hour, but after another 15 mins or so came back on without me even going near it
It the went out again and as I write this is stil out....I think the next thing is to put the c/l ecu from the donor car back in, and see if the interior light and alarm gremlins come back. If not, then the original ECU must be faulty - surely (?) - if they continue, I'll have to look elsewhere.....but where?
I was just curious really when the keys found to be working ok, whether the original ecu would work too.....
To be continued..
29
Omega General Help / Re: Sticky buttons replacement?
« on: 02 April 2024, 23:04:57 »
In the past, I've used Lidl acrylic nail varnish remover - it's in a pink bottle. The blue bottle is for real nails, and is harsher. Don't ask how I know - I just do 
. I've tried allsorts on mine, and for me this gets the best results. It leaves a nice satin finish on the surround.
I've done several drivers door switches and boot releases with great results.
A word of caution - go at it gently, especially around any symbols or raised areas (such as the ribbed left / right mirror selector switch and the actual mirror round adjuster button. A cotton bud helps to keep the fluid where you want it near delicate areas.
With care, you'll get great results. I've tried virtually everything else known to man, with no as good results
I am actually doing the front passenger window switch tomorrow as I removed it a couple of days ago when I took the door card off to replace the c/l motor....
. I've tried allsorts on mine, and for me this gets the best results. It leaves a nice satin finish on the surround.I've done several drivers door switches and boot releases with great results.
A word of caution - go at it gently, especially around any symbols or raised areas (such as the ribbed left / right mirror selector switch and the actual mirror round adjuster button. A cotton bud helps to keep the fluid where you want it near delicate areas.
With care, you'll get great results. I've tried virtually everything else known to man, with no as good results
I am actually doing the front passenger window switch tomorrow as I removed it a couple of days ago when I took the door card off to replace the c/l motor....
30
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Central locking inoperative using key fob.
« on: 02 April 2024, 13:05:19 »
That's OK then thanks. Got the car passes for both cars, so hopefully that side of things sorted if needed.
Is there a remote (no pun intended!) possibility that the ECU is the problem - just can't see that both keys fobs would loose communication with it, on such a frequent basis..... It did have quite a bit of water getting in around that area down the A pillar under the trim from the leak on the sunroof drain a couple of years ago. I've opened the ECU up, and there's no obvious signs of an issue.
Hopefully getting the keys checked this afternoon
Is there a remote (no pun intended!) possibility that the ECU is the problem - just can't see that both keys fobs would loose communication with it, on such a frequent basis..... It did have quite a bit of water getting in around that area down the A pillar under the trim from the leak on the sunroof drain a couple of years ago. I've opened the ECU up, and there's no obvious signs of an issue.
Hopefully getting the keys checked this afternoon