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[Weds]

I'm 99% sure my drivers side top suspension strut bearing in knackered, I changed the wishbones last year, I changed the drop links last week and I'm still getting a bad knocking from the front strut, you can see and feel it when pushing down the front wing, also i'm now getting creaking when steering.

The question is how do you change them. Does the top nut inside the bonnet just hold the leg in place or also the spring ? Can i just drop the leg out and change the top mounts or do i have to compress the spring.

Can I preserve the camber setting by disconnecting from the outer ball joint (I had WIM setup only last month) and not by the strut mounting bolts..

Cheers

[Nick W]

You'll need to compress the spring. Which is very powerful, so ensure that your compressors are up to the job.


If it's been setup, then removing the whole strut/hub assembly is the way to go. It's probably the best way to do the job anyway.


If you haven't had new struts recently, now is the time to evaluate just how worn they are; they usually degrade slowly, so you tend not to notice it happening.

[chrisgixer]

Ayup weds

As Nick says, the preserve the camber setting you can remove the strut and hub/stub axle complete. Although the ball joint is a pita.

Or there's the camber replication guide via the socket method as the guide in maintenance.

Unless the springs are lowered by 30mm or more, spring compressors will be needed.

[Sir Tigger KC]

I removed the strut from the hub when I did mine, but carefully marked the positions with a scribe and then reassembled to my marks. 

[Weds]

I removed the strut from the hub when I did mine, but carefully marked the positions with a scribe and then reassembled to my marks. 

I was thinking the same, or even spray painting the area..

[Doctor Smeagol]

I removed the strut from the hub when I did mine, but carefully marked the positions with a scribe and then reassembled to my marks. 

Why? Way too much room for errorses!

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90652.0

[Sir Tigger KC]

It was quick, easy and it worked for me. 

[05omegav6]

Can be (carefully) undone with the car on the ground... Jack up and remove wheel, undo drop link and pull strut down until shock rod clears inner wheel arch, pop the old top mount off, refit new, reposition strut, refit wheel and carefully lower car to ground, ensuring shock rod sits into the hole in the top spring cup/top mount. Then get back on slam panel with heavy assistant and refit nut asap. Keeping weight on and rod held, tighten nut to the stop, refit top cover and upper bolt. Refit droplink.

Repeat tother side, job jobbed...

Clearly not the official method, but it saves realignment

[chrisgixer]

Do you mean, undo the top mount nuts first, before pulling shock down...? IE, first, before jacking car?

[05omegav6]

Yup... Preferable to trying to use those horrific cheapy spring compressors that don't fit...

[05omegav6]

By the way it is worth noting that not all top mounts include the bearing... So be sure to ask before committing

[Weds]

By the way it is worth noting that not all top mounts include the bearing... So be sure to ask before committing

I've emailed All German Parts this evening because I was having problems accessing their site about a top mount, and got a reply within an hour saying if it was all right to confirm in the morning with an answer about stock.. Didnt expect that 

[Sir Tigger KC]

That's where I got mine from. Lemforders. 

[Nick W]

Yup... Preferable to trying to use those horrific cheapy spring compressors that don't fit...

I'm with you on the compressors, but can't agree with the rest of it. You can hurt yourself really badly with a coil spring, and it's not something to bugger about with. The last person I know who got in the way of a spring spent 3days in hospital while they put his hand back together. If you have any doubts about the equipment, then remove the strut and take it a garage with decent gear to change the spring/mount/whatever.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

have to say it terrified me a little the other day - considering how high they bounce when you drop them (and probably compressing all of about 5mm in length or something like), at the kind of compression you have to subject them to in order to get the McPherson all back together they'd probably fly 50ft or more - and taking your hand with. Not saying its can't/shouldn't be done - I did one the other day. Took it slow, steady, only a few turn on each one at a time, and regularly checking each side was under a similar load/compression by the gaps.

But angle grinders also worry the hell out of me, I think they're bleedin horrific things, but same as with the spring compressors - nothing else will do. It's a decision everyone has to make for their selves whether they're willing to or not. I risk it, taking it careful, as I say. I've had one side slip once before when I was a kid, and the other compressor held/took the strain. Brown trousers moment, but as I say, perfectly doable if you take it steady.