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[Nick W]

You can get these camber gauges but useless unless your car is perfectly level
http://gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?item=4034

Also what is the perfect front setting, it's not spot on level is it?

You need something more precise than that; the digital angle-gauge I use reads in tenths of a degree  and that's about as coarse a measurement as you'll get away with. There's nothing magical or even difficult about camber adjustment, DIY equipment can do a good job. But we do need to consider that iit isn't the whole picture for suspension alignment, and act accordingly.

Using a socket to 'align' everything should only be considered as good enough to drive to the appropriate equipment.

[LC0112G]

You can get these camber gauges but useless unless your car is perfectly level
http://gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?item=4034

Also what is the perfect front setting, it's not spot on level is it?

I've got one of those, but it's of limited use. It's magnetic, so won't stick to an alloy wheel. It'll stick to a brake disk, but since the car is usually up in the air with the wheels off by the time you get to see a brake disk....

If you've got a pair of steelies you can put on whilst you're faffing, then it can work reasonably well.

[Magwheels]

I appreciate the bluntness. I came to the same conclusion myself.
Does anyone have the bolt size to hand for the two bolts. Also when adjusting the wheel what would you recommend in order to get it within the parish. I read placing a socket between the wheel and shocker and somewhere else set the wheel to be about 10mm in board from vertical. Advice please.

18mm for the bolt heads if I remember. Not heard of the 10mm inboard from vertical bit but just pull the top out as far as it will go then get a four wheel geo done on it to make sure all is where it wants to be, but leaving the camber at 1'10 or as close as poss.

[PhilCavSRi130]

When i last did mine i took the measurement from the inside edge of the brake disc to the shocker using a set of verniers. Once i'd replaced my springs i reset to the same. Had no problems since with tyre wear and that was about 8k ago.

[Lazydocker]

When i last did mine i took the measurement from the inside edge of the brake disc to the shocker using a set of verniers. Once i'd replaced my springs i reset to the same. Had no problems since with tyre wear and that was about 8k ago.

But you had the luxury of a starting point

[9jdm]

Thank you to all for feedback which I followed. In order to close the thread and to help others in the future let me add.
I have now got a well set up geometry. Just completed 1100 miles in a week and no tyre wear to speak of.
The adjustment described above is simple but does ideally need a start point. For what it is worth. The adjustment is very limited. Pull out the hub from the top to give the maximum camber angle on both sides. Using the spirit level as described I found that the top of the rim was approx 11 mm away from vertical on both sides on 18 inch rims. When checked on the alignment machine it was within tolerance and the toe was minimal adjustment. Thanks again you guys. As I said I did 1100 miles keeping up with modern machines all be it at the expense of mpg!

[terry paget]

As discussed in an earlier head, I am seeking a quick and reliable method or setting camber. Sadly I have since become distracted by breakdowns, MOT failures and failing head gaskets.

My current scheme is: jack up front of car on level ground, and support under wheel ends of front wishbones. I remove both front wheels and brake discs. I slacken camber bolts and set camber to minus 1.1 degrees as measured by a digital inclinometer magnetically attached to the hub, varying camber by heaving or tapping the hub.

Toe-in can also be set while the car is thus supported, by setting front wheel parallel to rear with steering wheel centred.

[05omegav6]

Only snag with that method is that the wishbones aren't designed to be loaded in that manner

Using axle stands under the brake disc hub would be better for the compnents, but wouldn't be especially stable and would somewhat complicate adjustment 

This is why the remote 3D approach works better... you can jack the car safely and adjust everything with reference to a set datum. Unfortunately this is not so easy to do at home, so any diy set up will ALWAYS be a reasonable guesstimate rather than cock on

[Marks DTM Calib]

Er no, DIY can be cock on but, it requires iteration (have proved this a number of times)  .

[tidla]

Few of us have used the diy option in one form or another with good results.

Just had a puncture repair done on a front tyre. Down to 4mm from new and even tyre wear across the tread pattern.

[Nick W]

I did mine using an even more basic apparatus, and it gives good results.
As the camber can be read directly off the wheel, with the wheels on the ground, doing it any other way is making things much harder for yourself.

Terry's suggested method is not something I would attempt, as the wishbones aren't meant to be loaded like that, and loosening/adjusting the camberbolts like that isn't reassuring either.

Comparing the toe to the back wheels is no more than a good place to start adjusting it properly.

If you get everything close using these methods, then you can use the cheapest place with a machine to get it spot on. I paid £30, as it was only the tracking that was miles out. Further adjustments would have been priced separately. It is interesting to watch how all  the readings change as one is adjusted.