Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: addy on 16 April 2018, 17:04:23
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Hi wander if anyone can help. I went out today and when I went up a steep hill (Gleniffer Braes, Average grade: roughly 7 %), near to me. The car was fine untill I got about half way up, then the oil light flickered dimly. So I turned round and nursed it slowly down, when back on level ground it still flickered dimly every now and then. Switched it off and left it for around 3/4 hours, started it and drove home slowly watching for the light. It didn't come back on. I then had to move it slightly from where it was parked, Oil and all other lights went out and stayed off. Now waiting for a while to check the oil level, even though no warning came up for it. Could it have been that with the incline and maybe the oil being hot from the climb and low but not enough for the warning to come up on the display, going slightly to the back of the sump causing it? The temperature gauge only rose a little bit from where it is normal, then came back down to normal and stayed there when driving down and back home.
Any suggestions will be gratefull. I hope it is simply due to the climb and it isn't something drastic. Don't seem to be having much luck with FL models, always had PFL and had no where as much trouble.
Thanks
Addy
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Probably a faulty pressure switch, quite common on Vauxhalls and not expensive.
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oil pressure and oil level are 2 different sensors
today was warm and if your car oil was hot ,it will be thinner(less pressure)
oil level could read low on a steep incline
a low enough level could starve the pick up ,resulting in low pressure too
keep an eye on the dipstick
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Thanks for the replies. Yes it was sunny up here today, that is why I was going up the Braes to see the view (best laid plans :D). As said it has never done it before. I am doing a oil service as a precaution. I thought it might be the outside temperature and the climb upsetting it, needed someone to say it could be.
Thanks again.
Addy
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I get a message on the MID saying "check oil level" after about 5k after oil change. Always right up the dipstick when i do check it so ignore it then do the oil change at 6k-ish :D
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The Famous "Check Oil Level" never came up. I remember on my old Omega, the first time that message appeared I wandered what was happening. ;D
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I remember when the oil light came on in my first omega as it meant the engine had been nicely rebored despite my checking the level numerous times and I changed it twice...
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if you have never checked its worth taking the lower sump off and checking the pick up pipe.they can block up and cause starvation.a badly blocked pick up plus hot oil plus low effective oil level due to the incline can cause the light to come on. when i first got mine it drove local journeys fine but first long journey when the oil got hotter brought the light on. the pick up filter was all but blocked! .bits of all sorts end up in the sump ,silicone ,bits of scraped off gasket ,carbon etc etc.
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Thanks for the help. I am going to purchase a oil pressure meter, what should the pressure be in PSI? I have found that The oil pressure should be approx. 150 kPa (1.5) at idle speed, did a conversion to PSI and it came up with 21.75psi approx. Is this the correct psi for a 2002 2.6 engine.
Addy
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Are you sure that you need to purchase an oil pressure meter? You might frighten yourself! As engines wear, oil pressure drops from "factory fresh" values.....
Ron.
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I was going to purchase one, but will leave it now. Thanks for that advice, saved me. Will still do oil/filter change
What are the best sump gasket, one from Vauxhall or any OEM make for my year and engine?
Addy
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I was going to purchase one, but will leave it now. Thanks for that advice, saved me. Will still do oil/filter change
What are the best sump gasket, one from Vauxhall or any OEM make for my year and engine?
Addy
Grey goo from Vauxhall :y unlikely to have a gasket fitted :y
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Doen't sound too healthy addy, been up glennifer braea and all other hills around here and never had oil light come on (Fe%&in jinxed that now wait you see 😃 )
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I assume you've checked the oil level?
The pressure switch is a possibility, as is a blocked strainer, but also a sticking relief valve.
It might actually be worth investing in that pressure gauge just to save you taking it to bits for no reason.
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if you are doing an oil change anyway its got to be worth dropping the sump off to check strainer pick up.also check o ring at pipe flange and replace if poss.as for the sump mine is sealed with gm sealer only(no gasket)leave to set overnight to be sure and fill up day after. if you find no problems with the strainer at least you will have removed that nagging doubt.
what oil are you using ? mine has 10w/40 gm oil in it obviously a thinner oil will produce lower pressure at idle when hot .as will old oil or a part blocked oil filter.
the idea of putting a guage on to test is a good idea and will show just what is actually happening. dont be surprised to see quite a low reading when hot at idle but the light should only come on below approx 0.5 bar. mine was dropping to zero at idle and bringing the light on before i unblocked the pick up and afterwards it gave 2.5bar at idle and approx 4.5 at revs.
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Always used semi synthetic 10w/40 on all my omegas. Checked the oil level today, it is ok on the stick. The sump has no gasket, just grey goo. Checked it today at tick over and it sounded like it normally does, also no oil light flicker. Will do oil and filter change. If have nice weather (which doesn't happen often in Scotland ;D) then will also take off sump to check pickup.
Thanks for all the help.
Addy
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Can anyone tell me if the old bolts that hold the oil pan on, need new ones or if the old ones can be used? I have read up about the removal of it and refitting, the instructions say that it needs new bolts. What is the Torque setting for the bolts. Also can I leave the Oil level sensor?
Thanks for any help.
Addy
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I would be inclined to re-use the old bolts with a little thread locking compound.
Torque is listed as 15NM for "oil pan to oil pan housing" bolts. I assume those are the lower sump pan bolts?
Play it by ear if that sounds excessive for the size of the bolts.
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Can anyone tell me if the old bolts that hold the oil pan on, need new ones or if the old ones can be used? I have read up about the removal of it and refitting, the instructions say that it needs new bolts. What is the Torque setting for the bolts. Also can I leave the Oil level sensor?
Thanks for any help.
Addy
Were they the instructions according to the Haynes manual? I would ignore them; they also specified new bolts for the water pump, and when the brilliant James (V6CDX) fitted my water pump for me he said they were not stressed parts and the old ones were fine. The same must apply to sump bolts.
Ron.
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I think such as Haynes always say use new nuts/bolts/whatevers as this then covers their backs if you re-use old ones and something goes wrong.Personally on such as a sump I'd re-use what's there unless the threads are stripped or something.