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Author Topic: Camshafts  (Read 1415 times)

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laney101

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Camshafts
« on: 30 March 2018, 21:52:18 »

3.2 as standard has G and J cams
3.0 runs as standard has G and A  as fad as I know..

Now I know everyone goes for 4xG as a common power mod but sacrafices a little low end torque...

I've noticed that later GSI vectras had the 3.0 can setup G and A..

Is there any advantage to A cams over J

?
« Last Edit: 05 April 2018, 11:10:42 by Fuse 19 »
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JamesV6CDX

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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #1 on: 31 March 2018, 00:27:36 »

Itís all pointless. The gm v6 is not quick. At all.

Itís a cruiser. With reasonable. overtaking ability. It will never win any races.

The end :y
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #2 on: 31 March 2018, 09:31:55 »

If you want to improve 3.2 performance with minimal costs, replace the engine with a 3.0, including cats, but keep the 3.2 electrics and exhaust manifolds.
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #3 on: 31 March 2018, 10:29:39 »

Itís all pointless. The gm v6 is not quick. At all.

Itís a cruiser. With reasonable. overtaking ability. It will never win any races.

The end :y

Agreed. Itís an effortless cruiser and just makes everything so easy.  :y
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #4 on: 31 March 2018, 10:54:22 »

If you want to improve 3.2 performance with minimal costs, replace the engine with a 3.0, including cats, but keep the 3.2 electrics and exhaust manifolds.


Coil packs!  Need to hope it's got holes for coil pack bolts on the 3.0L heads.
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #5 on: 31 March 2018, 11:26:37 »

If you want to improve 3.2 performance with minimal costs, replace the engine with a 3.0, including cats, but keep the 3.2 electrics and exhaust manifolds.


Coil packs!  Need to hope it's got holes for coil pack bolts on the 3.0L heads.
Most late 3.0's will have

Failing that, pop the 3.2 heads on it

Or, just live with the ample power of a 3.2 as it is, and save yourself the bother :D
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #6 on: 31 March 2018, 11:26:57 »

If you want to improve 3.2 performance with minimal costs, replace the engine with a 3.0, including cats, but keep the 3.2 electrics and exhaust manifolds.


Coil packs!  Need to hope it's got holes for coil pack bolts on the 3.0L heads.
True. Most from about 98/99 do IIRC.  The early ones certainly didn't  :'(
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #7 on: 31 March 2018, 11:35:51 »

You can put the later heads on an earlier engine - just need to check the T vents, as they may need swapping :y
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #8 on: 01 April 2018, 09:17:39 »

Love the way on this forum no one ever answer a question...  And go of on tangents...

Never mentioned anything about engine swap or 3.0.. I have a 3.2 at moment not gonna fit a 3.0 with less power and less scope for improvement...

I am however fitting 3.0 heads ported...  Upgrading cams...  Ported intake manifolds... Tubular header.. And a piggyback ecu system... All of which will improve power torque and engine..

Don't see why people struggle so much to tune these v6...  Same as any other engine...  Get more air in. More air out...  Simple..

Guys abroad and America tune these a fair bit.. Wether n/a  or forced induction...


All I wanted to know was are J cams milder than A...  On the 3.2
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laney101

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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #9 on: 01 April 2018, 09:21:37 »


Do me a favour if comments are not helpful don't comment... This forum is getting really worse for crap like this...

The omega can be turned into a fast saloon...  It not slow anyways pulling a 7.4 0-60....   And good motorway speeds..

You do not know what I am doing or what I know... I asked one small question what is better J or A cams that's all...   As I do not know what order the cams run from mild to aggressive on std GM profiles

Quote from: JamesV6CDX l
ink=topic=142240.msg1852223#msg1852223 date=1522452456
Itís all pointless. The gm v6 is not quick. At all.

Itís a cruiser. With reasonable. overtaking ability. It will never win any races.

The end :y
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #10 on: 01 April 2018, 09:25:50 »

The 3.0 is regarded as more tuneable, more power & better torque curve than 3.2. Sadly emissions rules hit 3.2  :(

Hence 3.0 was suggested as a replacement, otherwise more effort fit a V8.

No point tuning 3.2, already at power/cooling limits.
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #11 on: 01 April 2018, 09:30:52 »


Do me a favour if comments are not helpful don't comment... This forum is getting really worse for crap like this...

The omega can be turned into a fast saloon...  It not slow anyways pulling a 7.4 0-60....   And good motorway speeds..

You do not know what I am doing or what I know... I asked one small question what is better J or A cams that's all...   As I do not know what order the cams run from mild to aggressive on std GM profiles

Quote from: JamesV6CDX l
ink=topic=142240.msg1852223#msg1852223 date=1522452456
Itís all pointless. The gm v6 is not quick. At all.

Itís a cruiser. With reasonable. overtaking ability. It will never win any races.

The end :y

This forum has been going since 2006, itís gathered significant knowlage over the years. I canít recall anyone replacing cams in 3.2 for more power.
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #12 on: 01 April 2018, 10:01:18 »

So because someone hasn't done it..  You don't do it.. That very small minded...

We know 3.0 easier to tune already on single cats higher compression and none flash based ecu... So easier to tune..

Potential... 3.2 greater more cc and same engine...
I've fitted single cats of 3.0 to mine..  Made good difference... Raise compression to 3.0 10.8 or slightly higher... And either standalone or piggyback ecu to get around mapping issues...

Camshafts are graded G A J N F...  G being wildest... I have since now had luck on vectra forum..  Finding out J cams in 3.2 are milder than 3.0 A cams...   Go I'm going to get a set of a cams..  And sent 2xa 2xg of to newman cams to be reprofiled ..

The 3.0 is regarded as more tuneable, more power & better torque curve than 3.2. Sadly emissions rules hit 3.2  :(

Hence 3.0 was suggested as a replacement, otherwise more effort fit a V8.

No point tuning 3.2, already at power/cooling limits.

Emmisions rules... Remove pre cats don't need to pass UK Mot...  I did it made good difference... Now just need compression hike to 3.0 level or higher

Power/ cooling limits..  Oh god seriously... Engines are good for 300bhp forced induction as std correct supercharger kits.... People have done it. Or even N/A with ITBS . Seen a vectra z32se with standalone ecu reworked heads tubular manifolds ported intake.. And 280 degree cams pulling 297bhp

There are guys in Poland pulling good figures 260/270 bhp... Bigger problem with these engine is exhaust manifold is super restrictive...

Vectra lads tune them well some are seeing 200bhp on a 2.5..

Catera forum in America has a good guide cor gaining 30-40bhp by building a 3.2 block 2.5 heads cams and was wrote by a guy of this forum...

So 3.2 at limits...  No where near.. And if worried about cooling do what I did..  Lower running stat... And better coolant...  Easy done never even has a sniff of high tenps
« Last Edit: 01 April 2018, 10:03:43 by laney101 »
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #13 on: 01 April 2018, 11:27:36 »

To start to develop additional power from the 3.2 starts costing proper money, and you'll still end up with a short block that's suitable up to around the 250-275bhp - yes you may get more, but its fragility will increase...  ...depends if the purpose is a proper fast effortless saloon or Friday night pub boasting.  Hence the lack of tuning options.  The compression ratio of the 3.2 makes it suitable for light blowing.

But as soon as you start to have to have lots of bits fabricated, financially v power, engine swaps make a lot of sense, particularly the yank v8 options, as these will need same fabrications and remapping, yet will end up with a far quicker, gruntier car.


Sounds like you are determined to stick with the 3.2 though, and if you have the money to throw at it and enjoy that, why not.

Good luck, and would be interesting to read a blog on your ongoing progress :y
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Re: Camshafts
« Reply #14 on: 01 April 2018, 12:34:48 »

To start to develop additional power from the 3.2 starts costing proper money, and you'll still end up with a short block that's suitable up to around the 250-275bhp - yes you may get more, but its fragility will increase...  ...depends if the purpose is a proper fast effortless saloon or Friday night pub boasting.  Hence the lack of tuning options.  The compression ratio of the 3.2 makes it suitable for light blowing.

But as soon as you start to have to have lots of bits fabricated, financially v power, engine swaps make a lot of sense, particularly the yank v8 options, as these will need same fabrications and remapping, yet will end up with a far quicker, gruntier car.


Sounds like you are determined to stick with the 3.2 though, and if you have the money to throw at it and enjoy that, why not.

Good luck, and would be interesting to read a blog on your ongoing progress :y


with some real numbers, not the usual pub wishful thinking stack-up(which is what the American 30-40hp seems to be)of an air filter gives 5hp, the exhaust ought to give 10, increasing the fuel pressure makes it smell richer so that's got to be worth something etc, etc. It's a modern small-capacity engine designed to specific requirements, so any real gains are likely to be small, and guaranteed to be expensive. Which is why you're finding it hard to find any conclusive data.
« Last Edit: 05 April 2018, 11:10:55 by Fuse 19 »
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #15 on: 01 April 2018, 13:57:12 »

Not much in the A vs J, J are milder and more emission friendly as fitted to later 3.2. If your going to the trouble of swapping Cams I wouldnt swap the J,s for A,s, fit 4 x G,s, as you say your lose some lower end torque but more grunt at the top end. If your taking off or swapping Heads do a DIY port job on them.

I used to have a Ex Police 3.0 with 4 x Gs, and inlarged Trottle Bodies and a re Chip, went really well, plenty of Mid and Upper grunt, adding KN cold feed and Performance Exhaust improved it more.

My 3.2 Manual Ex Plod runs standard G and Js, also has Widened TBs and KN Cold Feed, ECU ReMap and Performace Exhaust, the ReMap and Exhaust made a big difference, and is still the quickist 3.2 Ive ever driven.
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #16 on: 01 April 2018, 14:15:08 »

The omega can be turned into a fast saloon

Maybe in its day, by late 1990s standards. Or with a V8 conversion.

The Omega will be shut down by many modern Golf, Seat Leon, Audi, BMW etc.

Iím not denying itís swift and capable. But to try and squeeze another 50bhp from the old V6 design, is a pretty pointless exercise.

Itís capable enough in standard, well maintained form.

If you want something ďquickĒ youíre barking up the wrong tree with Omegas.

In terms of your ďonly answer the question or donít postĒ requests, thatís not going to happen. Forums are about people sharing opinions, whether you want to read them, or not.

However in answer to your question there is little benefit upgrading exhaust cams beyond ďAĒ. Itís only the inlet valves that have any noticible benefit from the extra lift of G cams :y
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #17 on: 01 April 2018, 18:23:47 »

I remember a forum meet many, many years ago now which ended up on a runway. Some of the best 3.0 and 3.2 examples were there, they were young as well, many under 100k.

Elite Pete turned up in his MX5, oh how there were jokes about that.

But then they drag raced, the MX5 spanked every Omega there.

The Omega is not a fast car, itís a cruiser with a decent bit of go. So fit your S,G,Z,K cams or whatever you like, you maybe gain a few ponies. But itís not going to do a lot!

Sounds like you can twirl the spanners, so either fit a V8 and easily gain 150bhp. Or buy something which is genuinely a fast car.
« Last Edit: 01 April 2018, 18:25:39 by tunnie »
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #18 on: 01 April 2018, 18:29:56 »

I remember a forum meet many, many years ago now which ended up on a runway. Some of the best 3.0 and 3.2 examples were there, they were young as well, many under 100k.

Elite Pete turned up in his MX5, oh how there were jokes about that.

But then they drag raced, the MX5 spanked every Omega there.

The Omega is not a fast car, itís a cruiser with a decent bit of go. So fit your S,G,Z,K cams or whatever you like, you maybe gain a few ponies. But itís not going to do a lot!

Sounds like you can twirl the spanners, so either fit a V8 and easily gain 150bhp. Or buy something which is genuinely a fast car.

What he said :y
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #19 on: 01 April 2018, 18:47:32 »

I remember a forum meet many, many years ago now which ended up on a runway. Some of the best 3.0 and 3.2 examples were there, they were young as well, many under 100k.

Elite Pete turned up in his MX5, oh how there were jokes about that.

.....

That'll have been Newark York organised by Ian. They were both good meets,  though lacking slightly in the bathroom/showering dept.  :y
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #20 on: 01 April 2018, 19:06:56 »

I remember a forum meet many, many years ago now which ended up on a runway. Some of the best 3.0 and 3.2 examples were there, they were young as well, many under 100k.

Elite Pete turned up in his MX5, oh how there were jokes about that.

.....

That'll have been Newark York organised by Ian. They were both good meets,  though lacking slightly in the bathroom/showering dept.  :y

I think I was there with a mate, as we happened to be in York that weekend.

So long ago! Well feels like it.
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #21 on: 01 April 2018, 20:00:11 »

The easiest and most cost effective way to a fast Omega is to start with a manual 2.2(which is worthless) and spend a couple of hours bolting in a 2.2 turbo(Astra turbos are also worthless).
Standard that gives you the same power as a V6; 350hp is a turbo change, and 500hp(or more) is doable. 300hp from a V6 is also doable, but will cost several thousand pounds and won't suit suit the heavy car.
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #22 on: 01 April 2018, 20:02:30 »

I remember a forum meet many, many years ago now which ended up on a runway. Some of the best 3.0 and 3.2 examples were there, they were young as well, many under 100k.

Elite Pete turned up in his MX5, oh how there were jokes about that.

.....

That'll have been Newark York organised by Ian. They were both good meets,  though lacking slightly in the bathroom/showering dept.  :y

I think I was there with a mate, as we happened to be in York that weekend.

So long ago! Well feels like it.


An Omega V6 and manual box in an MX5 ought to be cheap and fun. Although it's what the Rx8 Wankel should have been fitted to.
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #23 on: 01 April 2018, 21:25:07 »

The easiest and most cost effective way to a fast Omega is to start with a manual 2.2(which is worthless) and spend a couple of hours bolting in a 2.2 turbo(Astra turbos are also worthless).
Standard that gives you the same power as a V6; 350hp is a turbo change, and 500hp(or more) is doable. 300hp from a V6 is also doable, but will cost several thousand pounds and won't suit suit the heavy car.

4 pot has bags of room in engine bay as well, so should make working on it easy.

Loved that about my old 2.2
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #24 on: 01 April 2018, 21:38:10 »

I am holding off that little project with mine until it has been MoTd...

If it fails, then short term, it will need replacing... Long term /if it passes then I might start collecting bits...
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #25 on: 02 April 2018, 07:55:18 »

im not fitting turbo or supercharger .. and not going 2.2... nor am i going manual
v6 is quick you cannot say a 7/7.5 sec car isnt quick haha.. considering the car is 15 years old ... heavy and based on even older senator underneath there are good (REASONABLY fast) big saloons.. shocks a lot of cars..

 i do N/A tuning always have done..  i build engines .. for myself other people and do custom fab and engineering work for people on all sorts of cars..

i will go ahead with what i know and see what outcome is...

my plan is tubular manifolds long primaries.... 3.0 heads skimmed for raised compression .. ported by myself ... either g+a cams reprofiled via newman cams orr piper cams... ported inlet manifold and throttle body... piggy back unichip ecu orr standalone ecu.  should make a good difference.. yes may only make 30-40bhp but will make a hell of a difference... and people who say other wise are none the wiser.. going from a 2.6 auto to a 2.6 manual to a 3.2 auto you can tell a big difference.. 2.6 - 3.2 is only 40bhp and it night and day difference... add that 40bhp again and going to make a difference not as much as you start to see deminishing returns...

none of above expensive if your handy.

heads cost me 50..
skimming myself... porting myself... standard cams full set 60 quid
 reprofile via newman 250 quid
exhaust flange plates 60 quid ebay
some pipe etc unkown cost not a lot budget 100 quid ish
uncihip was 350 last time i checked ... standalone unknown not looked that far yet...

so for 810 quid could potentially have a 250/260bhp car poss more.. i wouldnt call that too expensive...

and before people jump their guns... yes i know i havnt included cabelt kit etc gaskets blah blah.... cars needs it cambelt doing this year with rocker gasket etc.....
so that was getting done anyways all i need is head gaskets inlet and exhuast gaskets seen full top end kits for £100 from FAI.

after all this we see how it goes .. expensive later option is the jenvey 6 ITB kit which bolts on and fits under omega bonnet . should give a good hike.


i shall do dyno runs before and after and see what we get and keep people posted
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #26 on: 02 April 2018, 11:03:25 »

Despite not being sure about being worth while, I respect that thatís a personal decision for the individual, Iím still curious to hear about your progress and wish you every success with the project :y
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #27 on: 02 April 2018, 11:05:18 »

Just a thought. Any benefit in changing the pistons?

The 3.2 ones have indentations in the crowns to reduce compression .... (part of the green save the trees brigade etc)
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #28 on: 02 April 2018, 11:40:13 »

going from a 2.6 auto to a 2.6 manual to a 3.2 auto you can tell a big difference.. 2.6 - 3.2 is only 40bhp and it night and day difference... add that 40bhp again and going to make a difference not as much as you start to see deminishing returns...
The "feel" difference is in the torque.  Sounds like you're going for BHP obviously towards the top of the rev range.  But an extra 40+ BHP is worthwhile, but in an Omega, if you do it at the expense of low end, the driveability of a heavy car with a very old autobox design goes out of the window.

That's not to say you shouldn't do it ;)


I once had a 2.5 with 3l cams, superchipped, allegedly not massive far away powerwise from the 3.0l I had at the same time (albeit broken at the time).  It wasn't even in the same league TBH, as again, the cams and the chip was all about power at higher revs, to give the pub-boast BHP figures.  Sadly, said car only lasted about a month before it gave up ;D


seen full top end kits for £100 from FAI.
Sometimes cheaper to buy gaskets seperately. ANd for exhaust manifold, might be worth getting MLS type, as fitted by GM to 3.2/
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #29 on: 02 April 2018, 17:08:49 »

As you seem to have have discovered, the J cams are great, at keeping the door open. Nothing else.

Just to correct you earlier, the later Vec GSI 2.6 had 4 x A for maximum torque. Personally, I prefer torque to BHP. Also if you are sending them off to be reground, just send the J's as they have no value.
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #30 on: 03 April 2018, 00:50:31 »

A proper gearbox makes even a 3.2 estate a sub 7 second car... Presuming you know how to drive it... ::)
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #31 on: 03 April 2018, 17:55:38 »

A proper gearbox makes even a 3.2 estate a sub 7 second car... Presuming you know how to drive it... ::)
Shame GM never fitted a proper gearbox to any Omega-B, just a relic from one of Dr Beechings leftover signal boxes...

...which makes the archaic autobox seem modern ;)
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #32 on: 05 April 2018, 02:56:06 »

i always chase more torque .. low to midrange is the best as were you use it the most...  but gaining BHP also helps... mild reprofiling cams wont make drastic changes just help a little.

ported heads, manifolds etc again aid airflow and increase torque and bhp

raised compression again more power albeit very small amount considering only raising to 10.8/11.1 depending on what i feel like

none of mods will drastically loose low end power yes will obvioulsly move slightly  by product of tuning unless cc increase or using forced indcution but be ok
as said if can get another 40bhp (peak) that means through out rev range should increase power leading up to peak outputs.

for troque n/a cc is king. hence a tuned 2.5 as stated can put out 200bhp but still wont feel as torquey as a 3.0 becuase it isnt.. the torque peak be higher and more peaky.
would be great if could get oversized pistons for 3.2  and get to 3.3/3.4... who knows maybe further down road something to look at hahaha


apologies on later vecs running 4xA Cams  cheers for correcting

you want to start with the best cams you can for regrinding as the profiles are all slightly different. so sending j instead of a cams may yeild a slightly different re profile shape due to the original shape.

Just a thought. Any benefit in changing the pistons?

The 3.2 ones have indentations in the crowns to reduce compression .... (part of the green save the trees brigade etc)


ive not mentioned pistons not sure what your actually asking.. i already have 3.2
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #33 on: 05 April 2018, 08:44:10 »

I think James is suggesting a switch to flat-top pistons (3.0?) for increased compression ratio
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #34 on: 05 April 2018, 09:51:02 »

ive not mentioned pistons not sure what your actually asking.. i already have 3.2

The 3.2 has a big dish in the piston which is intentionally there to lower compression.

The 3.0 model doesnít have this.

I was suggesting that if you could source a suitable set of pistons without the dish, it would be an easy compression gain

It would also be a good opportunity to clear out the sump and replace the big end shells - ideal moves if youíre trying to max out performance
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #35 on: 05 April 2018, 10:51:14 »

ive not mentioned pistons not sure what your actually asking.. i already have 3.2

The 3.2 has a big dish in the piston which is intentionally there to lower compression.

The 3.0 model doesnít have this.

I was suggesting that if you could source a suitable set of pistons without the dish, it would be an easy compression gain

It would also be a good opportunity to clear out the sump and replace the big end shells - ideal moves if youíre trying to max out performance

If I had the ability/knowledge to be changing pistons on an engine for more performance, I'd put the V6 in the bin and source a LS1 V8 to go into the engine bay instead.  8)
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #36 on: 05 April 2018, 10:58:40 »

Its a dish, not big by any means, and easily addressed by using ported heads from a 2.5/2.6 with smaller squish area.

Laney is going the right way, worthy of note is that the G cams have a slightly longer opening duration than the other cams and a slightly more aggressive opening/closing profile, hence them being the better option (although its very questionable if it makes an impact on the exhaust side given the dynamics of the exhaust stroke......although with tubular manifolds there maybe some gain to be had).

All the 3.0/3.2 cams have the optimum lift, increasing this wont give a benefit unless you were to fit larger valves as it results in a curtain area that equals (its actually slightly larger) the valve seat area. The 2.5/2.6 was effectively throttled by using a smaller inlet port and lower lift cams (hence the fitting of 3.0 cams and inlet divider plus some part matching brings 20ish bhp benefit on these).

Exhaust manifolds have always been crap, the pressed steel items from the 2.6/3.2 are better than the cast versions on the 2.5/3.0.

The best 'from stock parts' was always a 3.2 block with 2.5/2.6 heads (ported) with 3.0/3.2 inlet manifold, 2.6/3.2 exhaust manifolds, 2.5/3.0 front pipes and 3.0 engine management on G/A cams, any improvements based on this starting point are going to yield better results.

Crack on I say as it will be cheaper than any other option and far more interesting.
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #37 on: 05 April 2018, 11:13:33 »

Crack on I say as it will be cheaper than any other option and far more interesting.
This ^^.  :y

Might I add, I have seen mentioned adjusting the timing a tooth or two has had a positive effect on a rolling road, I just can't find it now. Please note, I don't recommend this unless you know exactly what you are doing.
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Re: Cmashafts
« Reply #38 on: 05 April 2018, 15:30:59 »

Crack on I say as it will be cheaper than any other option and far more interesting.
This ^^.  :y

Might I add, I have seen mentioned adjusting the timing a tooth or two has had a positive effect on a rolling road, I just can't find it now. Please note, I don't recommend this unless you know exactly what you are doing.


Having all four cams 1 tooth advanced certainly does affect the power: doing so reduces it and the fuel economy quite noticeably. I suspect that 20XE adjustable pulleys will fit, but I don't fancy paying for them, let alone adjusting all 4 cams to whatever timing is required and with the correct belt tension.
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Re: Camshafts
« Reply #39 on: 05 April 2018, 15:55:06 »

I think James is suggesting a switch to flat-top pistons (3.0?) for increased compression ratio

You can't put a 3.0 piston in a 3.2 block. Well you could I suppose, but  3.0 pistons are +/-86mm diameter, and 3.2's are +/-87.5mm diameter, so compression is going to be a bit on the low side and they'll slap a bit :D

You're going to be searching for 87.5mm pistons with the correct wrist pin and crown height, and getting accurate info out of anyone is difficult.
« Last Edit: 05 April 2018, 16:19:18 by Fuse 19 »
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Re: Camshafts
« Reply #40 on: 05 April 2018, 16:36:00 »

....

You're going to be searching for 87.5mm pistons with the correct wrist pin and crown height, and getting accurate info out of anyone is difficult.

Gudge0n pin ......  :-X 

I thought the admin had grown up & removed the filter ......
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Re: Camshafts
« Reply #41 on: 06 April 2018, 00:59:01 »

....

You're going to be searching for 87.5mm pistons with the correct wrist pin and crown height, and getting accurate info out of anyone is difficult.

Gudge0n pin ......  :-X 

I thought the admin had grown up & removed the filter ......

That is what I wrote, but ..... ::)
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Re: Camshafts
« Reply #42 on: 06 April 2018, 02:16:52 »

Its a dish, not big by any means, and easily addressed by using ported heads from a 2.5/2.6 with smaller squish area.

Laney is going the right way, worthy of note is that the G cams have a slightly longer opening duration than the other cams and a slightly more aggressive opening/closing profile, hence them being the better option (although its very questionable if it makes an impact on the exhaust side given the dynamics of the exhaust stroke......although with tubular manifolds there maybe some gain to be had).

All the 3.0/3.2 cams have the optimum lift, increasing this wont give a benefit unless you were to fit larger valves as it results in a curtain area that equals (its actually slightly larger) the valve seat area. The 2.5/2.6 was effectively throttled by using a smaller inlet port and lower lift cams (hence the fitting of 3.0 cams and inlet divider plus some part matching brings 20ish bhp benefit on these).

Exhaust manifolds have always been crap, the pressed steel items from the 2.6/3.2 are better than the cast versions on the 2.5/3.0.

The best 'from stock parts' was always a 3.2 block with 2.5/2.6 heads (ported) with 3.0/3.2 inlet manifold, 2.6/3.2 exhaust manifolds, 2.5/3.0 front pipes and 3.0 engine management on G/A cams, any improvements based on this starting point are going to yield better results.

Crack on I say as it will be cheaper than any other option and far more interesting.



thankyou very much for comment.

currently engine is std 3.2 v6 with 3.0 downpipes.

ive gone for 3.0 heads only due to being able to get easily.. going to be ported.. back cut on valves ..new guides  valves and chambers coated through CAMCOAT warrington .... heads are going to be skimmed. (unsure what amount by need to work out want to push it slightly past std 3.0 compression maybe 11.1)

i need to find a set of g and a cams from 3.0 and have shipped to newman cams for fast road re profiling. He said he has done them in past a few times mainly on vectras and seen good results so we shall see..

im also going to port std inlet upper and lower and match to head (may do throttle body unsure yet)

just purchased a spare set of 3.2 later exhaust manifolds. going to make a jig from these and try and make tubular stubby manifolds. not ideal however should be better than the log design of std. (thats the plan anyways)

management been looking at getting a unichip dastek ecu to allow remapping of parameters as currently cant find anyone who can remap my 3.2. 
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