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[Tommmm]

Hi.  I have a 2002 2.2 diesel estate, which I love.  Done 142k but runs like new.  However, I've got rust over the wheel arches on both sides.  I've had two bodyshop quotes - one for £500; one for £700.  Both say they can't offer any guarantees the rust won't come back.  Given market value of the car isn't worth probably much more than £500, does anybody know of any cheaper ways of resolving the problem.  Seems a great shame to have to say goodbye to the car for reasons of rust as in every other respect it's A1.  Many thanks.

[VXL V6]

Only real answer is to cut out the rusty metal and weld in new metal, then the whole primer, paint etc process. When you work out the material and labour costs for that you can see where the quotes come from. 

That is unless they are thinking of charging you the same money for a quick sand down and paint which will obviously starting rusting away again immediately

[Terbs]

The arches on my blue estate are starting to bubble, so I will grind them down, cut out the rust area, backfill with zinc, then body filler and shape up and paint and blend in. Hopefully won't see the join.
Plenty of info on youtube or forums for the diy man to have a go. I certainly would not scrap a good car for the sake of a bit of bodywork
(Have to go the zinc route as I can't weld)

[Tommmm]

Thanks - I feared as much.    I now need to decide whether it's worth the £500 - £700 or whether I cut my losses and hunt out a clean alternative Omega for a grand or so.  Thanks again. 

[Tommmm]

Thanks Omega Baron - I'll have a go at that.  I can't weld either!  As you will have worked out, I really don't want to get rid of it.  Love it.....

[SMD]

There's no need to get rid of it because of rust. Chances of finding one without rust are slim now anyways

[vauxsull]

I have one arch that needs attention. The metal is still there so no welding in new section needed but still needs grinding back and worked on.
 been quoted £220 for the one arch... Guaranteed work too..

[05omegav6]

I have one arch that needs attention. The metal is still there so no welding in new section needed but still needs grinding back and worked on.
 been quoted £220 for the one arch... Guaranteed work too..

That sounds reasonable,  but then for another £130 you could have it replaced

iirc, Webby paid £350 for his

[Terbs]

I have not welded for about 40 years, then I was only learning gas and arc welding. Otherwise as HT says, I would put in new arches. I can't afford to get someone else to do it, but if financial circumstances change, I may bite the bullet. Until then, its zinc and filler.
Go on Tommmm...gen up and have a go. Its not that difficult, even if it only lasts 12 months or so, it may give you time to save up for the pucker job.

[Steve B]

I have not welded for about 40 years, then I was only learning gas and arc welding. Otherwise as HT says, I would put in new arches. I can't afford to get someone else to do it, but if financial circumstances change, I may bite the bullet. Until then, its zinc and filler.
Go on Tommmm...gen up and have a go. Its not that difficult, even if it only lasts 12 months or so, it may give you time to save up for the pucker job.

Flog one of you cars   

[Kate]

I always used to repair my own for under £20 for both sides. If it's completely shot though you can't use this method.

1. Scrape away an old flaky paint/grime/rust/muck. If you use a screwdriver then be very careful!
2. Sand it.
3. Treat with Hammerite Kurust.
4. Fill with body filler.
5. Sand until smooth with increasingly fine wet/dry paper. Use plenty of water. Refill/sand until it's perfect.
6. Prime.
7. Paint.

I know this is classed as a bodge by many people but the results can be excellent and for £20 it's worth it.

Good luck.

[Kate]

The rear wheel arches of my old black Omega were knackered.

This is the after picture.

[Terbs]

As a quick insight for a quick job without too much hassle....after grinding down the arch face, lets say you chop out a piece the shape of a thin banana, and you are back to good metal. Get a sheet of perforated zinc and cut a shape a bit bigger than the hole. Tap the surrounding edges to slightly lower them. Screw a couple of screws into the zinc and fiddle it in behind the hole. Ask someone to hold the screws whilst you fill with body filler. Soon as it starts to set you can let go. Once hard, remove the screws, fill the holes. Once all set sand to shape, using a block. Heavy grit wet or dry, working down to a fine grit, about 1500. Then sand an area larger than the repair with 2500 grit. This flattens the lacquer ( just flatten, don't rub through it.) Keep well within this area when priming, and colouring, and lacquering. When all thoroughly dry, sand down the whole area with 2500 or 3000 wet or dry. Then polish the whole area with some compound, clean off and then polish, and hopefully you should have a decent repair.
Wet or Dry should be used wet.

This is only a quick, brief info of the basic way to do it. I've had twenty years in this game, so do know other ways, but for a newbie to 'have a go' I hope this will help in some way. I did my Estate tailgate this way 12 months ago and it still looks good.
My amazement was not my job, but how exact was the aerosol spray supplied by Halfrauds !!!!!!! Nocturno blue. Surpassed themselves

[Terbs]

Its not a bodge Kate if it works and looks as good as yours

[Terbs]

I have not welded for about 40 years, then I was only learning gas and arc welding. Otherwise as HT says, I would put in new arches. I can't afford to get someone else to do it, but if financial circumstances change, I may bite the bullet. Until then, its zinc and filler.
Go on Tommmm...gen up and have a go. Its not that difficult, even if it only lasts 12 months or so, it may give you time to save up for the pucker job.

Flog one of you cars   

That my friend, will never happen, even if I end up driving Isopon on wheels