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Messages - Darius

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1
The diesel pump on my 51 reg 2.2DTi has failed and it isn't the circuit board this time - it's the pump itself. It's kaput.

The car is only just run in - less than 100k miles  :) - and, apart from a turbo which whines a bit, is in good condition without significant rust.

My normal independent garage doesn't quite know what to do and he isn't sure he has the kit to configure a new pump or reconditioned pump even if we got one.

I contacted a diesel specialist in Bristol and he quoted £2k + VAT for a reconditioned pump.

Several questions.

1  If it was yours, bearing in mind its age, would you scrap it? 

2  Should I bite the bullet and take it to a Vauxhall dealer?

3  If not, what is the best way to repair it?

4  I'm 15 miles south of Bristol - is there someone within easy towing distance you'd recommend? 

If the answer is install a reconditioned pump which suppliers in the UK do you recommend? 

Toughshop in Germany advertise lots of VP44 pumps on eBay ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=vp44+diesel&_sacat=0 ) and their website ( https://www.toughshop.de/xtcommerce/de/search?page=search&page_action=query&desc=on&sdesc=on&keywords=vp44 ) looks quite good with VP44 pumps starting at €500 or so. 

Any advice will be gratefully received.

A mini problem is I need a hoist fitted for my disabled wife and the hoist installer cannot say whether the hoist will fit the car until I take the car to him  :'(

2
The fuel pump on my 2001 2.2 DTI has packed up again.

The first time was 18 months ago when it needed a new electronic board - see 2001 Omega 2.2 DTI diesel started > stalled > will not start.

This time I braked sharply when a bus cut a corner and the engine promptly died.  It was fortunately outside a garage so I enlisted help and we pushed it to the garage and I said "Please fix it".  When they checked the fuel filter they found metal filings in it which they suggested, as the leak off pipes run to the fuel filter, could be from the pump itself, suggesting the pump is irreparably damaged. Many years ago I got a leak in the leak off pipes and had to crank the engine for about a minute before it fired so I am wondering if that running without fuel in the pump, which presumably lubricates it, might have damaged it.  But, it has happily run for years since then ...

Anyway, they want to fit a new pump the price of which still has me wincing with pain. I apparently did a very good impression of John McEnroe.

Anyone have one in a box in the corner of the garage that they are looking for a good home for it?  If so, could we do a deal where I pass greasy oncers** your way in exchange for it?  I promise I will look after it carefully and give it lots of TLC.

Or any other good ideas?  I am thinking it's probably the electronics again so I should just get a replacement board and try it - after all, the previous one ran for 18 months.  Or anyone know a good source of repairers / refurbed or even new pumps?  Mrs Google tells me about Diesel Bob who says (according to my last thread the pump is a Bosch VP44)

Quote
Words of caution:

Our experience has shown that certain types of injection pump CANNOT BE SUCCESSFULLY reconditioned, these pump types currently stand as being:

Bosch VP44 PSG16 (has part number starting as: 04705042--, & has 2 electrical plugs on it's top)
...

Despite a number of firms offering to recon these types of injection pump we strongly advise staying clear, the potential for headaches, stress, an empty wallet & court case is very high.

Thanks.

** For those too young to remember, £1 notes used to be green ...

3
You need to plug the car into a code reader and see why the management light came on and go from there ..... anything else is purely guess work  :y
I figured that.  It came on when I pulled into my drive so I left the engine running for a minute to ensure it gets logged.

4
Omega General Help / Engine management comes on intermittently
« on: 15 March 2021, 14:26:59 »
It's a 2.2 DTI and the engine management light comes on for a few seconds and she goes into limp home mode.  After a few seconds the light goes out and all is normal ... until it happens again, which could be after a mile or after several weeks.

I suspect a sensor plug needs reseating - can anyone suggest which I should try and where they are?  I have the Haynes manual.

Today it first came on when I  drove through (was forced into!) a pothole with the nearside wheels.  It then came on twice when I made a sharp right turn.

5
It's nothing like enough, especially with lights/wipers/blower going.

Budget for a new battery by the end of the year.
It got given a new one in January.

6
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Interior light
« on: 26 February 2021, 12:09:26 »
I think the problem is most likely to be inside the cabin. 

Outside the cabin isn't affected by not using the car (apart from close to the engine) but inside the cabin is. My door switches and leads to them were as clean as new. 

7
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Interior light
« on: 25 February 2021, 19:42:35 »
Mine has fixed itself and I started thinking about it. 

When I took off the plastic cover to remove the light bulb I saw a printed circuit board about the size of a postage stamp inside the interior light unit - there may have been two.  I suspect one is to do the delayed slow dimming when the light goes off - ie it holds the light on. 

I wondered if the PCB or PCBs could be where the problem lies.

Several of us have all had the same fault at the same time.  We aren't using our cars as much with the pandemic.  Moist air will condense inside the cabin and, as this PCB is close to the windscreen and roof, it is likely to be colder than other places so moisture will condense here first.

With normal use in the winter, the heater is on and it dries out the PCB every time the car is driven so not enough moisture collects to cause the problem.  But, when the car isn't used, the moisture can collect and cause the problem. 

If anyone has the problem it would be interesting to see if a hair dryer blowing warm air on these PCB(s) fixes it.

8
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Interior light
« on: 23 February 2021, 17:12:10 »
The lamps pull out.  The bulb has a glass tab with the wires which push into the socket with the tab going side-to-side across the car
Oops.  The tab goes along the length of the car.

The problem has miraculously gone away so damp does seem to be my problem too.

9
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Interior light
« on: 20 February 2021, 18:48:38 »
I have done some more digging.  The top of the two bulbs is 12V. 



The bottom of the two bulbs goes to Pin 11 on the K37 Control Unit - Central locking which must pull them to ground.




10
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Interior light
« on: 20 February 2021, 17:47:17 »
like i said. this was the issue on mine. will take door trim off and see where it goes soon anyway. it could be for an option that my spec doesnt have ?
just offering advice on how i solved mine. yours or others may be different.
I have a VM Ware manual I bought on line for £10 or so.  It is a pig to use but I discovered this wiring for a 2002 Omega.  It has one blue wire going to 4 blue wires.  If any of the four blue wires go to ground it is the same as the driver's door switch closing to ground and bringing on the light.

I have an image at https://www.dropbox.com/s/1grjgnzqe57shmj/Car%20-%20door%20switch.png?dl=0 but cannot seem to upload it.

Does this work? 

11
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Interior light
« on: 19 February 2021, 23:58:51 »
Thanks.
i havnt found anything that doesnt work since this wire was cut ? ?
The problem is you won't find it till you need it and it isn't working.  Vauxhall wouldn't have put it there and connected it up unless it was needed. 

Could it prevent the alarm going off?  While I doubt it, in the worst case it could mess with the air bags or seat belt tensioners or the "unlock doors in an accident" ...

The infinite pleasure of intermittent faults and insufficient information to do a full diagnosis :'(

12
General Car Chat / Re: Motability
« on: 19 February 2021, 20:47:39 »
A thought is that, if you buy your own electric vehicle, you get free car tax as it's electric.  If you go Motability, the PIP free tax is "used up" on the new car (though maybe not for an electric car?).

So, you can keep one of your cars "on the road" with your PIP free tax and take out day insurance if you ever need to use it.  It's running cost is then small (though day insure rates are pretty high).

It is interesting that getting a Motability car allows other drivers (eg family members) to drive the car under the Motability scheme.  However, strictly speaking, free PIP car tax on your own car only allows other people to drive it if you are in the car or if they are doing an errand etc for you.  Your husband getting your shopping is OK but your husband going to a rugby match on his own is not.

I wish someone would bring a test court case and sort it out.

13
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Interior light
« on: 19 February 2021, 20:38:23 »
I had a brilliant idea and I looked in the manual  :y 

It says "[the wiring connector] is fixed to the front edge of the door.  Unscrew the connector locking ring, then pull the connector away from the door (see illustration)".  It has a pretty picture ...

14
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Interior light
« on: 19 February 2021, 19:29:28 »
Thanks.  A quick clarification:  You say you
Quote
Unplug[ged] the door big connector plug.

Sorry for being a twit but where is the "door big connector plug".  Is it pry off the grommet and it's inside the bodywork pillar?  Or is it inside the door itself, either by prying off the black knob-like thing and poking around, or by removing the door panel?  Or is it the black knob-like thing itself where the cable goes into the door, and I just need to pull it off?  My garage is full of other stuff so work has to be done on the drive in between the showers while getting frozen by the howling wind :-(

As an aside - when I was looking last night I discovered that the central locking works but the second press to deadlock doesn't.  It's looking very similar!

Quote
if that blue wire is partially low to earth it will make the ecu think a door is open.
Absolutely.  I have several times recently found myself checking to see if a door is open.

15
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Interior light
« on: 18 February 2021, 23:03:07 »
It's happening to me.  Same as the others - the car just stands there these days and rarely gets driven.

It's very intermittent.  Sometimes it's OK.  Once it stayed on even when driving.  Sometimes it goes off after a long time.  Once the alarm sounded which I put down to wind rocking the car.  Manually pushing the door switches didn't do anything. I don't get any funny sounds.

The lamps pull out.  The bulb has a glass tab with the wires which push into the socket with the tab going side-to-side across the car.  I broke one bulb using pliers with tape round the jaws to grip the bulb.  Fine nosed pliers were best as I could get below the cylindrical bulbous bit and gently lever them out.  I did wonder about wrapping some duck tape round the bulb and pulling.  The look like these Autobulbs 10 X 501 Capless Sidelight Car Bulb Bulbs Interior Number Plate Side Light 12V 5W  https://www.amazon.co.uk/Autobulbs-Capless-Sidelight-Bulbs-Interior/dp/B009ZJUI90

I will investigate the solutions suggested and post back.

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