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[terry paget]

2.5 petrol manual estate
Phew, what a relief. 10 advisories, including nearside headlight aim too low, repair immediately; also 4 rusty brake pipes, covered in grease, 2 'suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered  excessive, rear inner (sill)'.

Now I must inspect the sills on Ben's X reg estate and decide whether I deem it worth while replacing the cat back exhaust with new and changing the rusty brake pipe. And what, pray, are the rear chassis legs, which he deemed corroded?

[Lizzie Zoom]

Well done Terry!

[b4ndit]

Happy days

[johnnydog]

2.5 petrol manual estate
Phew, what a relief. 10 advisories, including nearside headlight aim too low, repair immediately; also 4 rusty brake pipes, covered in grease, 2 'suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered  excessive, rear inner (sill)'.

And what, pray, are the rear chassis legs, which he deemed corroded?

Did you not ask him to clarify before you drove away? I like to be present during my MOT's, albeit in the 'viewing area's, which at my test centre is literally adjacent to the MOT ramp, but this has two benefits in my view 1) the tester can indicate problem areas to you, and 2) you can clarify any work you have recently done (which shows good intent!) and in the case of my classic cars, correct him (politely of course!) with items such as minor play in taper roller bearings in front hubs, and the operation of items such as floor mounted dip switches etc.
You can also see how thorough (or not!) he is and make sure he doesn't jack the Omega up on the diff for example!

[Nick W]

Didn't the tester mark the suspect areas on the car? I've never had to do more than crawl under the car and look for the paint stick marks.


I would never grease brake pipes. Replacing them is cheap and easy and every one that's been marked as suspect has proved to be unacceptably rusted once removed. This is why we have safety inspections!

[dave the builder]

congratulations Terry 

2.5 petrol manual estate
Phew, what a relief. 10 advisories, including nearside headlight aim too low, repair immediately; also 4 rusty brake pipes, covered in grease, 2 'suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered  excessive, rear inner (sill)'.

Now I must inspect the sills on Ben's X reg estate and decide whether I deem it worth while replacing the cat back exhaust with new and changing the rusty brake pipe. And what, pray, are the rear chassis legs, which he deemed corroded?

so did you have that adjusted and then have a re test 

[Nick W]

2.5 petrol manual estate
Phew, what a relief. 10 advisories, including nearside headlight aim too low, repair immediately; also 4 rusty brake pipes, covered in grease, 2 'suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered  excessive, rear inner (sill)'.

so did you have that adjusted and then have a re test 

A better question is why wasn't it adjusted as part of the test?

[nellys coupe]

well done mate.

[terry paget]

congratulations Terry 

2.5 petrol manual estate
Phew, what a relief. 10 advisories, including nearside headlight aim too low, repair immediately; also 4 rusty brake pipes, covered in grease, 2 'suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered  excessive, rear inner (sill)'.

Now I must inspect the sills on Ben's X reg estate and decide whether I deem it worth while replacing the cat back exhaust with new and changing the rusty brake pipe. And what, pray, are the rear chassis legs, which he deemed corroded?

so did you have that adjusted and then have a re test 

No need, it was passed today with that as an advisory. Note it was too low, not too high. I shall change the adjuster in due course, hopefully when I have got the other 2.5 through MOT.

[terry paget]

2.5 petrol manual estate
Phew, what a relief. 10 advisories, including nearside headlight aim too low, repair immediately; also 4 rusty brake pipes, covered in grease, 2 'suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered  excessive, rear inner (sill)'.

so did you have that adjusted and then have a re test 

A better question is why wasn't it adjusted as part of the test?

Tester did try, but the adjuster had no effect. When I have time I must change the adjuster, but the other 2.5 takes priority, MOT failed and expiring on the 14th.

[b4ndit]

headlamp aim is no longer considered as part of the test only if it is so far out that either you can't see or you blind on coming traffic it is all about where the hot spot is in the headlamp tester cars should no longer fail for height adjustment latest info on the mot testers annual course 

[dave the builder]

2.5 petrol manual estate
Phew, what a relief. 10 advisories, including nearside headlight aim too low, repair immediately; also 4 rusty brake pipes, covered in grease, 2 'suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered  excessive, rear inner (sill)'.

so did you have that adjusted and then have a re test 

A better question is why wasn't it adjusted as part of the test?

Because it is against the Vosa rules to adjust during a test
NT must fail the car,and enter the fault on the VTS device, then,  adjust the beam ,then re-test
It has been known for testers (NTs) to adjust headlamp aim during test 
how else would halfords and the like ,survive without charging £20 per side plus to adjust

[Nick W]

2.5 petrol manual estate
Phew, what a relief. 10 advisories, including nearside headlight aim too low, repair immediately; also 4 rusty brake pipes, covered in grease, 2 'suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered  excessive, rear inner (sill)'.

so did you have that adjusted and then have a re test 

A better question is why wasn't it adjusted as part of the test?

Tester did try, but the adjuster had no effect. When I have time I must change the adjuster, but the other 2.5 takes priority, MOT failed and expiring on the 14th.

They're very low geared, and take  lot of turns on the screw to have an effect. Other possibilities are broken adjusters, they've been wound out of the threads, or the plastic gears are loose on the shafts. All of which will require dismantling the lamp.

[b4ndit]

2.5 petrol manual estate
Phew, what a relief. 10 advisories, including nearside headlight aim too low, repair immediately; also 4 rusty brake pipes, covered in grease, 2 'suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered  excessive, rear inner (sill)'.

so did you have that adjusted and then have a re test 

A better question is why wasn't it adjusted as part of the test?

Because it is against the Vosa rules to adjust during a test
NT must fail the car,and enter the fault on the VTS device, then,  adjust the beam ,then re-test
It has been known for testers (NTs) to adjust headlamp aim during test 
how else would halfords and the like ,survive without charging £20 per side plus to adjust

adjust at the end of the test and issue a PRS

[Doctor Gollum]

Rear chassis rails are just like the front ones...

On the estate, the shocks bolt through them.

[terry paget]

Didn't the tester mark the suspect areas on the car? I've never had to do more than crawl under the car and look for the paint stick marks.


I would never grease brake pipes. Replacing them is cheap and easy and every one that's been marked as suspect has proved to be unacceptably rusted once removed. This is why we have safety inspections!

I have never made a brake pipe, it's time I did. Is this the appropriate kit to make the new pipe and join it to an existing steel pipe?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Held-Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-Din-3-16-Pipes-Copper-Kunifer-Steel-Car-Van/273669772098?hash=item3fb7fd5342:g:7i0AAOSw95FZZyhw
At least the tester merely advised the rusty pipe, rather than the other tester who failed X168 for a similar pipe I had failed to grease. I gather Kunifer is the best pipe to use.
I have only once known a tester mark dodgy areas with paint or tape, years ago. I watched the tester of X168 go round the car, scraping off the underseal from the o/s wheel arch until he found a hint of a hole, then failed the car. This tester has a chatty wife who engaged me in conversation throughout the test, feeding me coffee the while. Eventually the tester joined us, pronouncing that he had managed to pass the car, his main worry being the low headlight beam, which failed to adjust. 'Probably a failed adjuster', I muttered, 'I think I have a spare'.

[Nick W]

Didn't the tester mark the suspect areas on the car? I've never had to do more than crawl under the car and look for the paint stick marks.


I would never grease brake pipes. Replacing them is cheap and easy and every one that's been marked as suspect has proved to be unacceptably rusted once removed. This is why we have safety inspections!

I have never made a brake pipe, it's time I did. Is this the appropriate kit to make the new pipe and join it to an existing steel pipe?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Held-Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-Din-3-16-Pipes-Copper-Kunifer-Steel-Car-Van/273669772098?hash=item3fb7fd5342:g:7i0AAOSw95FZZyhw
At least the tester merely advised the rusty pipe, rather than the other tester who failed X168 for a similar pipe I had failed to grease. I gather Kunifer is the best pipe to use.

that tool is what you need; it's much better than the bars clamped together that are half the price. You'll struggle to buy anything other than kunifer brake pipe, £15 will buy enough to plumb a small car. Buy a handful of male and female metric fittings, they're only a few pence each. Buy the supplies from a local factor.


Would a quick pipe making tutorial help?

[terry paget]

Didn't the tester mark the suspect areas on the car? I've never had to do more than crawl under the car and look for the paint stick marks.


I would never grease brake pipes. Replacing them is cheap and easy and every one that's been marked as suspect has proved to be unacceptably rusted once removed. This is why we have safety inspections!

I have never made a brake pipe, it's time I did. Is this the appropriate kit to make the new pipe and join it to an existing steel pipe?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Held-Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-Din-3-16-Pipes-Copper-Kunifer-Steel-Car-Van/273669772098?hash=item3fb7fd5342:g:7i0AAOSw95FZZyhw
At least the tester merely advised the rusty pipe, rather than the other tester who failed X168 for a similar pipe I had failed to grease. I gather Kunifer is the best pipe to use.

that tool is what you need; it's much better than the bars clamped together that are half the price. You'll struggle to buy anything other than kunifer brake pipe, £15 will buy enough to plumb a small car. Buy a handful of male and female metric fittings, they're only a few pence each. Buy the supplies from a local factor.


Would a quick pipe making tutorial help?

Yes please.

[aaronjb]

Would a quick pipe making tutorial help?

Cut pipe.
Deburr pipe.
Bend pipe.
Flare pipe.
Put fitting ... 
Cut end off pipe.
Hope pipe is still long enough.
Put fitting on pipe.
Flare pipe.

 

[dave the builder]

Would a quick pipe making tutorial help?

Cut pipe.
Deburr pipe.
Bend pipe.
Flare pipe.
Put fitting ... 
Cut end off pipe.
Hope pipe is still long enough.
Put fitting on pipe.
Flare pipe.

 

 
I spilt my coffee 

[Andy A]

Good news Terry.   

[Kevin Wood]

Would a quick pipe making tutorial help?

Cut pipe.
Deburr pipe.
Bend pipe.
Flare pipe.
Put fitting ... 
Cut end off pipe.
Hope pipe is still long enough.
Put fitting on pipe.
Flare pipe.

 

Just like putting a plug on a piece of wire, then.

[Doctor Gollum]

Would a quick pipe making tutorial help?

Cut pipe.
Deburr pipe.
Bend pipe.
Flare pipe.
Put fitting ... 
Cut end off pipe.
Hope pipe is still long enough.
Put fitting on pipe.
Flare pipe.

 

Just like putting a plug on a piece of wire, then.

Nope. Never done either of those things...   

 

[BazaJT]

Good news about the pass I've always shaped the new pipe after making it up so you're flaring and fitting the ends with a piece of straight pipe.If you're trying to work out how long a replacement pipe needs to be before removing old one from the car a piece of string can be used for gauging the length.Don't forget to make sure both fittings are on the pipe before making the second flare-not that I've ever forgotten to do this myself of course

[johnnydog]

I try if possible to remove the old pipe in one piece, and use that as a template for the bends in the new pipe.  A third pair of hands is helpful to hold the pipe in the correct orientation whilst you're bending the new piece. If the pipe goes through or under chassis or suspension components, this isn't always possible, and the pipe has to be fitted in situ when one end is first connected before making any bends. For awkward runs, it can be easier to fit a joint using the same flaring method.

[terry paget]

I have now removed the sills and the rear wheels. I don't like the look of the right hand rear suspension bracket.

Any comments?

[dave the builder]

use your fingers and thumbs and your corrosion assessment tool
(the little hammer type, not a 3 foot long crow bar the muppet MOT tester used )
wire brush it all off
check for Edam

[Doctor Gollum]

Remove the triangular plate, wire brush the mounting bracket. Report back.

Incidentally, the bolt above is the outer seatbelt lower mounting... Which appears to share the metalwork of the triangular plate mount

[Kevin Wood]

There's certainly surface rust there, but if that's all it is, then it's fine.

(not saying it wouldn't benefit greatly from a  wire brush and a coat of primer then underseal).

[terry paget]

The exhaust cat section to central section looks dodgy too. Is this repairable?

[dave the builder]

There's certainly surface rust there, but if that's all it is, then it's fine.

not saying it wouldn't benefit greatly from a  wire brush and a coat of anti climb paint , teach that MOT tester not to poke about 

FTFY

[dave the builder]

The exhaust cat section to central section looks dodgy too. Is this repairable?

IF it's not blowing then worry about it AFTER the test (should be a pass and advise)

[Nick W]

Remove the triangular plate, wire brush the mounting bracket. Report back.

Incidentally, the bolt above is the outer seatbelt lower mounting... Which appears to share the metalwork of the triangular plate mount

This is what a rusty one looks like:







After I had cut back the rot in the floor, door jamb and inner sill, then welded in new metal. This requires moving a numer of trim pieces, sound deadening and wiring so you don't set the car alight.





Looking inside the sill, it was obvious there were several patches along its length that would be MOT failures if the sill cover wasn't in place. I was in a rush when I did this, so didn't mention them. It's why I don't believe in patching sills, as that's actually more work than cutting it off and replacing the entire panel.


The other side was in worse condition by the way.

[Doctor Gollum]

The exhaust cat section to central section looks dodgy too. Is this repairable?

No. Undo the manifold/cat joints and throw the lot in the recycling (sell the back box if you can easily separate it). If only for your sanity... This lot will be fitted on the time it takes to try and remove those bolts

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Down-Pipe-Catalytic-Converter-for-Vauxhall-Omega-2-5-04-94-02-01-/323054554212

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Down-Pipe-Catalytic-Converter-for-Vauxhall-Omega-2-5-04-94-02-01-/332544328426

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-ESTATE-2-5-168HP-1994-2000-Silencer-Exhaust-System-/150875259003

And call it done.

But start with the loose sill rust as that will possibly be the decider

[terry paget]

The exhaust cat section to central section looks dodgy too. Is this repairable?

No. Undo the manifold/cat joints and throw the lot in the recycling (sell the back box if you can easily separate it). If only for your sanity... This lot will be fitted on the time it takes to try and remove those bolts

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Down-Pipe-Catalytic-Converter-for-Vauxhall-Omega-2-5-04-94-02-01-/323054554212

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Down-Pipe-Catalytic-Converter-for-Vauxhall-Omega-2-5-04-94-02-01-/332544328426

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-ESTATE-2-5-168HP-1994-2000-Silencer-Exhaust-System-/150875259003

And call it done.

But start with the loose sill rust as that will possibly be the decider

Thanks Doc, rather what I feared. Will check the loose rust in the morning.

[terry paget]

I have wire brushed the bracket, and it don't look too bad.

However, with heavy heart, I have decided to scrap the car. It cost me £305 5 years ago, now needs a complete new exhaust, serious welding, a brake pipe, just to have a change to pass MOT. I imagine it would fail next year anyway. Son Ben, whose car it is, likes the rattly Astra LIFE I have lent him, so this Omega can go.

[Doctor Gollum]

Put another way, spend £300 on it for a years use... That's £6 a week.

And get your kids to buy their own cars

[dave the builder]

how much welding ? what actually needs doing ?
have you asked the MOT garage for a price to do all the work ?
being a manual ,you'd probably get your £305 you paid back if you sold it rather than scrap it 
if it only requires a few hundred to fix ,that would be cheaper than buying another car,which you will probably have to spend a few hundred to fix anyway

[terry paget]

how much welding ? what actually needs doing ?
have you asked the MOT garage for a price to do all the work ?
being a manual ,you'd probably get your £305 you paid back if you sold it rather than scrap it 
if it only requires a few hundred to fix ,that would be cheaper than buying another car,which you will probably have to spend a few hundred to fix anyway

Welding required both sides rear wheel arches and sills; complete exhaust, cat sections, central sections, back box, and probably lambda sensors too; new brake pipe rear right required. Then it has to pass emissions test. A lot or work on a car that will probably fail MOT again next year.

You think it might sell? Here it is.




I have the sills. Buyer collects from BA3 2LP, Midsomer Norton, Somerset. MOT expires April 14th 2019.It's a 2.5 petrol manual estate, perfect drive, nothing wrong with it, in MOT submission trim. Offers over scrap value, about £80. At the moment it has a Panasonic radio/tape player/CD player with 12 CD magazine.

[Nick W]

Not worth the nearly £500 in parts, or the timeif you do it all yourself. Certainly not both together.
Weigh it in.

[dave the builder]

put it in the for sale section
£80 is peanuts ,even for scrap collected

such a waste to scrap it

alloys and tyres would get that
lots of people want R25 gearboxes, especially if it comes with everything

ant relative that could list it on ebay Terry ,as a complete car for parts or repair ?
 

[ronnyd]

Got £150 for my Desmond at the end of January Terry. After i,d stuffed it into a carpark wall.