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[Viral_Jim]

It certainly is!

I would go through the prep as you suggest, (I'd go carb cleaner fwiw). Then I would epoxy the 2 parts of the broken pipe together, let it all go off, then rub down the outside and epoxy that whole repaired piece into the  thermostat housing, making sure its all orientated correctly obviously.

BUT

All those epoxy glues you mentioned have a maximum working temperature of 65-70 degrees e.g. Araldite standard https://www.go-araldite.com/products/epoxy-adhesives/araldite-standard-2-x-15ml-tube. I don't know if they go soft after that temperature, or break up and fail, but either way you need something better.

I'd go for something like Loctite Hysol 9492, if you look at the technical data sheet, it seems to be good for 125 degrees and has tested strengths in an unleaded petrol and glycol environments up to 3000hrs. So clearly automotive use was foreseen by the manufacturer when the product was designed. Unlike the araldite or everbuild stuff you have on hand. 

https://www.rapidonline.com/Loctite-2052215-EA-9492-A-B-2-1-Dual-Cartridge-50ml-87-7267?IncVat=1&pdg=pla-336984116576:kwd-336984116576:cmp-757438067:adg-98613163406:crv-428566073244:pid-87-7267:dev-c&gclid=CjwKCAjw95D0BRBFEiwAcO1KDHFUtbHDN_CT0hQfh9r_z8-fxx2Dg7ow73BKd3ojJDArxsmYp6z8QhoCvPIQAvD_BwE

[terry paget]

Thanks, good advice. Yes, I have used high strength Standard Araldite in automotive applications only to have it fail. One example I recall was on a headlight height adjuster, not a high temperature situation, but I did discover on testing that it went soft. Loctite 9492 sounds good.

[Doctor Gollum]

Headlights get hot in use

Any magic goo you use needs to meet two criteria...

1. The chemical structure of the item being glued.

2. Environmental considerations. Not limited to, temperature, temperature variation, chemical resistance, resistance to vibration.

Failure to understand or appreciate either point is why 99.99% of such DIY repairs fail. Sleeving the repair may help improve its odds, but don't expect miracles.

Basically, as you cannot possibly establish what material the pipe was made from and how 13/14 years or use/abuse/degradation has done to it, and therefore have zero chance of finding the correct magic goo to repair it.

Not trying to poopoo the idea, but if you don't need it, then I would simply park it up until such time as you can get the new parts to fix it.

If I was at work, then I would probably be able to obtain suitable goo for you to try, as there are a stupidly wide variety of goos used in the day to day maintenance of Airbuses. Unfortunately I am not, hence my best advice being not to bother... Spending time with the visiting rug rat and making sure that your will and papers are up to date

[terry paget]

Thanks Doc. At the moment I am in lockdown, both national and family, so don't need any cars. The Omega, with extended MOT, is running well, the Vectra estate seems good, daughter's Astra and Jonny's Astra are both runing well. However daughter-in-law's Rover Streetwise failed to start this morning, so she went to hospital in Ben's Astra, and Ben and Tom walked here.

I drove to Ben's place, jump started the Streetwise, checked the voltage, engine running - 14.4 volts - , so drove it home, changed the battery, and returned it.

Then Ben mentioned that the ABS light on his 2006 Astra 1.6 manual was on intermittently. Probably ECU, I told him, but could be split sensor ring or wheel sensor. Will code reader tell me? Will the ECU on my donor 2004 Astra 1.6 manual fit?

I might need that Vectra yet. Goodness knows when I can get a spare coolant pipe.

[Doctor Gollum]

An intermittent abs light is not a concern given the amount of use that should be going on. 

If the mot 'extension' is good for the Omega, it's good for the Astra

[Marks DTM Calib]

Then Ben mentioned that the ABS light on his 2006 Astra 1.6 manual was on intermittently. Probably ECU, I told him, but could be split sensor ring or wheel sensor. Will code reader tell me? Will the ECU on my donor 2004 Astra 1.6 manual fit?

I might need that Vectra yet. Goodness knows when I can get a spare coolant pipe.

Read the codes, unlikely to be the ECU 

The only issue the ABS ECUs on Astra/Zaf etc of that era had was on the versions with stability control, the fluid pressure sensor in the Teves 60 units suffers from a bond wire fracture and throws up both the ABS and ESP lights. Not many Astras/Zafs had ESP and it gives a different symptom to that which you describe.