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Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Instrument bulbs
« on: 15 May 2018, 09:29:16 »
found my green ones on ebay no trouble,listed under vauxhall intrument bulbs

Omega General Help / Re: Rear Shock Absorbers
« on: 14 May 2018, 09:22:57 »
it sounds like the actual lower part of the shock is actually pinholed then.if you wipe it off with a thinners soaked rag you may see where its coming from.not repairable thou if it is.
someone on here may have some or its like they suggest ,switch back to std springs and fit std shocks of your choice.sooner rather than later because you dont want it to start spraying oil onto thr exhaust !

Omega General Help / Re: Cambelt change intervals
« on: 12 May 2018, 19:28:42 »
The tensioner doesnt come apart as such but you can carefully flick the rs seals out to clean and regrease the bearing.this is for the aux belt. The cam belt bearings are the same idea but obviously req a lot more work to get to.
The one main issue here i can think of is that which has been mentioned somewhere earlier in this thread. You should be changing belts/ rollers according to mileage and time but time also affects a bearing sat on a shelf in your garage as it would if it were sat on the car itself in your garage. And as was said most of the kits we are purchasing were probably made a few years ago.there should be no harm in regreasing these rollers as you would with an aux belt pulley but its very easy to bend the rs seals and render them useless ,letting in damp air or dust to the bearing which would be catatrophic to the cam belt ones,less so on the aux belt.
These like all other service parts etc will eventually become an issue when these cars become classic cars in the future.its easy enough to buy almost all we need now just as it was easy to buy a set of lucas points for a car 20 years ago !

Omega General Help / Re: Smell of coolant in the car
« on: 12 May 2018, 19:16:52 »
See what you can find down by the pedals ! You never know you may get lucky and find the pipes are leaking only ?

Omega General Help / Re: Smell of coolant in the car
« on: 12 May 2018, 17:22:51 »
If you cannot smell or see any signs of coolant under the bonnet esprcially at the rear and the two pipes going through the bulkhead grommet to the heater look ok (and grommet intact) then its possible to see the pipes from the inside as they enter and go into the matrix.they are only sealed with o rings which could leak .you may be able to see signs of leakage or smell it more down there. If its the actual matrix then due to the awkward job it is to do a replacement properly(without cutting dash) there has to be no harm in trying a leak sealer .after all its going to do one of two things. Either seal the leak but may cause a slight blockage that would reduce heat output a bit or it could do nothing .if the matrix is past its best you would not be damaging a good part that would have to be replaced anyway in the future.
Also its worth noting ,has this smell been there for ages or just started happening and is it accompanied by any misting up/steam.   I had one in a viva that misted up the windscreen every time you turned on the heater but only for the first could smell it slightly but no water loss.when i removed the matrix it was only the slightest bit discoloured in one corner but enough to seep a very very small amount of steam.

Omega General Help / Re: Smell of coolant in the car
« on: 11 May 2018, 22:07:30 »
if the coolant level never drops then it sounds like a minor seep from the heater matrix or associated pipes or o rings. if the matrix is goosed and may need changing in the future then no harm popping in a bottle of barrs.i always put in in every car ive ever had when i do a coolant change with no problems but others will frown on it because it can cause a blockage in the matrix.

Omega General Help / Re: coolant level switch
« on: 05 May 2018, 15:28:29 »
Dont know what others think but 5 mins to get to normal temp on a v6 sounds very good to me.its a fair lump to warm up.

Omega General Help / Re: Brake pedal creep.
« on: 28 April 2018, 11:02:18 »
ah . in that case i would say there is nothing wrong. i was under the impression the pedal kept going down. if you are sure all your caliper pistons are free and retract slightly as they should and that the front slider pins are free then i would not worry. the first part of movement of the pedal has to take up these clearances first before even gripping the discs and omega pedals will never be solid with little movement because of this(or other cars for that matter)in fact if you drive a car with a very solid feeling brake pedal with little movement i would expect there to be a piston or two seized
other things that could increase the initial travel are
air still in system
brake fluid u/s
swelling hoses under pressure
brake pad lining lifting off of backing pad or very corroded or uneven/bent shims
loose bolts or other mounting issues between servo and /or bulkhead(unlikely)

you could try clamping off sections as you were going to and if you clamp off all 4 then you would expect the pedal travel to be very little.this will eliminate any thoughts of air in the system right up to where you have clamped .then unclamp a carner at a time and see if any section has more travel than each other.if so you will know where to look or re bleed but i suspect everything will give balanced results.
cheers hope this helps

Omega General Help / Re: Brake pedal creep.
« on: 27 April 2018, 22:08:05 »
this would indeed cause an increase of travel but not a steady drop to the floor. if the op is definately having a steady drop to the floor but no fluid leaks anywhere then it must be master cylinder .

Omega General Help / Re: Brake pedal creep.
« on: 27 April 2018, 15:30:42 »
if the pedal travels slowly down to the floor and there are no leaks / no drop in level AT ALL then its got to be the master cylinder.any other symptom causing a level drop would be a leak somewhere.either visible from anywhere external or out of the back of the master cyl into the servo cavity.
omega brakes when functioning correctly are not the most solid of pedals and due to the slight retraction of all the pistons to provide a running clearance this can create a fair bit of initial pedal movement before anything happens.

if you are doing an oil change anyway its got to be worth dropping the sump off to check strainer pick up.also check o ring at pipe flange and replace if for the sump mine is sealed with gm sealer only(no gasket)leave to set overnight to be sure and fill up day after. if you find no problems with the strainer at least you will have removed that nagging doubt.
what oil are you using ? mine has 10w/40 gm oil in it obviously a thinner oil will produce lower pressure at idle when hot .as will old oil or a part blocked oil filter.
the idea of putting a guage on to test is a good idea and will show just what is actually happening. dont be surprised to see quite a low reading when hot at idle but the light should only come on below approx 0.5 bar. mine was dropping to zero at idle and bringing the light on before i unblocked the pick up and afterwards it gave 2.5bar at idle and approx 4.5 at revs.

if you have never checked its worth taking the lower sump off and checking the pick up pipe.they can block up and cause starvation.a badly blocked pick up plus hot oil plus low effective oil level due to the incline can cause the light to come on. when i first got mine it drove local journeys fine but first long journey when the oil got hotter brought the light on. the pick up filter was all but blocked! .bits of all sorts end up in the sump ,silicone ,bits of scraped off gasket ,carbon etc etc.

Omega General Help / Re: Help and Advice Plug leads.
« on: 15 April 2018, 10:53:09 »
Yes definately do them youself to be sure that they are done right.unless you know of a garage that you can trust which sounds like you dont or see if any local members offer to help you if needed.

I had one of those AC Delco kits fitted by the brilliant James (V6CDX) about 6 weeks ago and it was just fine - he would NEVER fit rubbish!  :y 8)


Was the kit complete or was there a pulley missing?

I've found another cheap kit, but this one doesn't show the bolts in the picture:

yes that kit will be fine but you do need two kits (unless you can find another pulley cheap but not usually) the power pulley is fixed on a 2.6 but an adjustable one can be used no problem. 40 for the lot is good even if you do end up with parts left over !

Omega General Help / Re: Gearbox oil to change or not to change
« on: 31 March 2018, 15:16:43 »
Yes definately a bit signs of any 'red' in that.when i did mine last year i added a drain plug into the main sump and did 2 more drain /refills afterwards .oil seems to be staying red colour now which would indicate most if the old oil is out.

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