Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Failed on a sidelight bulb, which I should have checked before I went, but I have manflu, so I'm excused.
Also failed on play in a balljoint. This was disappointing as I fitted a new pair (TRW) 6k miles ago.
Question is, do VX do replacement ball joints ?, as originally they were riveted onto the wishbones. If they do sell them anyone know how much they cost ?
If VX don't sell them, or they are silly expensive, any recommendations on other brands please.
Also one of my headlights was slightly on the high side and didn't really respond to adjustment. I suspect broken adjusters. Do we still have a source of good quality replacements ?

[Bigron]

Albs, I bought these:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Astra-G-H-Meriva-B-Omega-B-Lower-Arm-Bottom-Ball-Joint-with-BOLTS-x-2/322235852978?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

with a view to refurbishing my wishbones, if I ever get my new ATP ones fitted, but your need is greater than mine, so if they are what you need, they are yours.
They look very well made and should last lots longer than 6k miles!

Ron.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Very kind Ron. Will PM you. 

[Doctor Gollum]

Delphi ones are around £8-10 and last better than that

[TheBoy]

I used genuine (not ECP supplied ) Lemforder on mine.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Cheers all. Any info on replacement headlight adjusters if I need them ? 

[TheBoy]

Cheers all. Any info on replacement headlight adjusters if I need them ? 

Looks like ali ones hard to source, but plenty of plastic ones.

Half tempted to model one, and print some off...   ...but my only Omega already has a pair of ali ones in, so suspect that will end up on the cba pile...

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Go on, you know you want to really.   

[Nick W]

Cheers all. Any info on replacement headlight adjusters if I need them ? 

Looks like ali ones hard to source, but plenty of plastic ones.

Half tempted to model one, and print some off...   ...but my only Omega already has a pair of ali ones in, so suspect that will end up on the cba pile...

I already have a model if it's any use to you. I suppose I could set my print up too. I've only had it two years.

[TheBoy]

Cheers all. Any info on replacement headlight adjusters if I need them ? 

Looks like ali ones hard to source, but plenty of plastic ones.

Half tempted to model one, and print some off...   ...but my only Omega already has a pair of ali ones in, so suspect that will end up on the cba pile...

I already have a model if it's any use to you. I suppose I could set my print up too. I've only had it two years.

What plastic is the model for? If the common PLA or ABS, send it over

[Doctor Gollum]

Re ball joint, if happy with current geometry simply spray paint over the bolts and use the marks to realign the new ball joint before tightening the replacement one

[Bigron]

Clever! 

Ron.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Will do.

[Nick W]

Half tempted to model one, and print some off...   ...but my only Omega already has a pair of ali ones in, so suspect that will end up on the cba pile...

I already have a model if it's any use to you. I suppose I could set my printer up too. I've only had it two years.

What plastic is the model for? If the common PLA or ABS, send it over

Eh?
The model is just that, using the dimensions from an aluminium one in Fusion360. I suspect that some redesigning is necessary for a printed plastic adjuster to last. Even then it's probably not a suitable part; the cast resin ones use an inserted ball ended metal rod.

[TheBoy]

Eh?
The model is just that, using the dimensions from an aluminium one in Fusion360. I suspect that some redesigning is necessary for a printed plastic adjuster to last. Even then it's probably not a suitable part; the cast resin ones use an inserted ball ended metal rod.

Ah, gotcha, so you've just modelled the original part

Yeah, that'll need a lot of lovin' to get it to a printable part, then some tweaks depending on plastic used (PLA will likely print OK, but might be unsuitable, particularly for non HID applications, ABS will likely need tweaks to internal stress within the part).

[Nick W]

Ah, gotcha, so you've just modelled the original part

Yeah, that'll need a lot of lovin' to get it to a printable part, then some tweaks depending on plastic used (PLA will likely print OK, but might be unsuitable, particularly for non HID applications, ABS will likely need tweaks to internal stress within the part).

I think that the cast resin ones are probably the way to go, if they were made a bit better.
The aluminium ones were excellent, but rely on cheap access to a decent CNC machine. Although without a lot of the contours the part could be made a lot easier on manual machinery. You can't see it when fitted, so it doesn't need to look like original part.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Closer inspection has shown that the adjuster is indeed broken. It hasn't fallen apart (hence the lack of rattling) just snapped clean through. Now need to source another adjuster or another headlight unit. 

[Nick W]

Closer inspection has shown that the adjuster is indeed broken. It hasn't fallen apart (hence the lack of rattling) just snapped clean through. Now need to source another adjuster or another headlight unit. 

Get an adjuster, as any used lamp ought to be considered damaged unless it has already been upgraded.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

True enough. And if it isn't damaged before being posted it almost certainly will be by the time it arrives.
Ive just found some adjusters being sold on ebay, so if OOF doesn't come up trumps in a day or so, I will order a pair from there.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Opel-Vauxhall-Omega-B-Headlight-Adjuster-Life-Time-Warranty-Hella/281256289565?fits=Car+Make%3AOpel%7CModel%3AOmega+B&hash=item417c2e651d:g:M1EAAOSwv0tVE70j

[Nick W]

True enough. And if it isn't damaged before being posted it almost certainly will be by the time it arrives.
Ive just found some adjusters being sold on ebay, so if OOF doesn't come up trumps in a day or so, I will order a pair from there.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Opel-Vauxhall-Omega-B-Headlight-Adjuster-Life-Time-Warranty-Hella/281256289565?fits=Car+Make%3AOpel%7CModel%3AOmega+B&hash=item417c2e651d:g:M1EAAOSwv0tVE70j

I would just buy those. Run a tap down the threads, ensure that the ball is firmly stuck in and adjust them slowly.


The aluminium ones are unbreakable, but are NLA.

[VXL V6]

I wasn't overly impressed with the Carami ones, as said they need a tap running through them, I have just bought some others off ebay from Belarus and they are a better finish and fit.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Headlight-reflector-holder-halogen-xenon-Vauxhall-Omega-B-C/122228592782?hash=item1c7564508e:g:xhcAAOSwcUBYPdgc

[Nick W]

I wasn't overly impressed with the Carami ones, as said they need a tap running through them, I have just bought some others off ebay from Belarus and they are a better finish and fit.

the aluminium ones also benefit from a tap and a healthy chamfer at the start of the thread.

[TheBoy]

I wasn't overly impressed with the Carami ones, as said they need a tap running through them, I have just bought some others off ebay from Belarus and they are a better finish and fit.

the aluminium ones also benefit from a tap and a healthy chamfer at the start of the thread.

Never had to on any of the several I've fitted 

They do benefit from light grease on thread to stop corrosion though.

[Bigron]

Corrosion, TB? You mean between aluminium and stainless steel? My understanding is that their electrochemical potentials are similar, so corrosion is unlikely.

Ron.

[Kevin Wood]

Corrosion, TB? You mean between aluminium and stainless steel? My understanding is that their electrochemical potentials are similar, so corrosion is unlikely.

Ron.

Nooo! Ali and stainless are a nightmare, generally.

http://www.ssina.com/corrosion/galvanic.html

[Bigron]

You surprise me, Kevin: when I taught at college, I needed to have a long-wire aerial erected (HF band) and a colleague who was also a sailor advised me to use stainless steel fittings to the aluminium masts, because he does likewise on his boats, which are exposed to salty air - deadly for corrosion! 

Ron.

[Webby the Bear]

Insignia oil drain plugs. Steel plug in Ali pan. I just go straight for the oil sucker 

[henryd]

Insignia oil drain plugs. Steel plug in Ali pan. I just go straight for the oil sucker 

They are only a problem if done up by a Gorilla previously

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Two minute retest at 4pm resulted in 12 months ticket. 

[Kevin Wood]

You surprise me, Kevin: when I taught at college, I needed to have a long-wire aerial erected (HF band) and a colleague who was also a sailor advised me to use stainless steel fittings to the aluminium masts, because he does likewise on his boats, which are exposed to salty air - deadly for corrosion! 

Ron.

Interesting. There are various types of either, of course, but now you mention it, boats do mix the two quite a lot without issues.

[VXL V6]

Two minute retest at 4pm resulted in 12 months ticket. 

[Bigron]

Great! It's wonderful when that happens - life restarts.....

Ron.

[Bigron]

Thanks for the re-appraisal, Kevin. The colleague in question was our metallurgy specialist, so you worried me with your earlier comment. He usually knew what he was talking about, even though he was scotch and I had difficulty understanding him!
He taught me how to splice ropes too, for the stays to guy the masts - can't remember how to do it now.....

Ron.

[TheBoy]

Thanks for the re-appraisal, Kevin. The colleague in question was our metallurgy specialist, so you worried me with your earlier comment. He usually knew what he was talking about, even though he was scotch and I had difficulty understanding him!
He taught me how to splice ropes too, for the stays to guy the masts - can't remember how to do it now.....

Ron.

Assuming continuity not required, easy rule of thumb is to grease dissimilar metals

I have no idea if the threads on the adjusters are stainless, mild steel, or zinc plated.  I suspect the latter.

[Kevin Wood]

Thanks for the re-appraisal, Kevin. The colleague in question was our metallurgy specialist, so you worried me with your earlier comment. He usually knew what he was talking about, even though he was scotch and I had difficulty understanding him!
He taught me how to splice ropes too, for the stays to guy the masts - can't remember how to do it now.....

Ron.

What did you have at the end of the wire antenna?

I've just restored one of these:

[Entwood]

MOT passed today, just some advisories :

001 - 2.4.c.1b - Coil spring corroded Rear, both sides  - wire brush, rub down, treat with rust stuff, paint with hammerite ??

002 - Nearside rear inner wheel arch corroded - wire brush, rub down, treat with rust stuff, paint with hammerite, underseal ??

003 - 3.6.B.4d - Brake hose pipe slightly deteriorated offside front - replace, will do both sides

004 - 2.4.G.2 - Suspension arm rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement. Nearside front lower (rear bush) - mmmm front bush is poly, so its just a matter of a replacement rear bush from GM .. if memory serves that's the wishbone off and needs a bloody big press ...

Downside is having to have the MOT 7 weeks early, upside is he says all jobs can easily wait until the summer when its warm and dry ... He was also very happy with the work done since the last MOT, actually said "it's nice when the work is done properly and not bodged" .. 

So big thanks to Serek for the brake pipes, the rest I did myself so pretty pleased

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Re. the rust issues. Depends if its surface rust or proper rust. I would investigate closely before deciding on a course of action.
Might need to follow my example - buy a MIG welder, learn how to use it after a fashion, cut out the rust, weld in new metal.
Might be lucky and just need a wire brush from poundland. 
Are the springs original GM or replacements ? If original I might try to preserve them. If replacement (especially KYB) I would take the opportunity to change them for something better.
Rear wishbone bushes. As you say, new ones from VX, but wishbones off and need a press to get the new ones in.

[Doctor Gollum]

Given that you need to remove the springs in order to do a proper job, common sense would suggest replacement

[TheBoy]

Given that you need to remove the springs in order to do a proper job, common sense would suggest replacement

Depends whats fitted. There is a lot of shite out there, plus also if the OP has SL springs, choices are limited.

[Doctor Gollum]

Given that you need to remove the springs in order to do a proper job, common sense would suggest replacement

Depends whats fitted. There is a lot of shite out there, plus also if the OP has SL springs, choices are limited.

Given the amount of towing, SL springs would be a brave choice

[YZ250]

........mmmm front bush is poly, so its just a matter of a replacement rear bush from GM .. if memory serves that's the wishbone off and needs a bloody big press ...
......

If you are talking about the wishbone rear bush, they don't take much pressing out/in at all. I've done mine in the past with ease using a steel frame and a two ton bottle jack (think cider press). Still got the gear (suitable support plates for underside and correct size socket) if you get stuck Nige. 

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Given that you need to remove the springs in order to do a proper job, common sense would suggest replacement

Depends whats fitted. There is a lot of shite out there, plus also if the OP has SL springs, choices are limited.

Given the amount of towing, SL springs would be a brave choice

I fitted a pair of standard spec rear springs as recommended by yourself (cant remember the brand at the minute) and imo the rear end feels just right now. Not too soft like s/l springs but not too stiff to interfere with ride comfort. 

[Nick W]

Given that you need to remove the springs in order to do a proper job, common sense would suggest replacement

Depends whats fitted. There is a lot of shite out there, plus also if the OP has SL springs, choices are limited.

Given the amount of towing, SL springs would be a brave choice

I fitted a pair of standard spec rear springs as recommended by yourself (cant remember the brand at the minute) and imo the rear end feels just right now. Not too soft like s/l springs but not too stiff to interfere with ride comfort. 

mine's the same. The ordinary springs are much easier to find and cheaper than S/L ones too.

[Entwood]

........mmmm front bush is poly, so its just a matter of a replacement rear bush from GM .. if memory serves that's the wishbone off and needs a bloody big press ...
......

If you are talking about the wishbone rear bush, they don't take much pressing out/in at all. I've done mine in the past with ease using a steel frame and a two ton bottle jack (think cider press). Still got the gear (suitable support plates for underside and correct size socket) if you get stuck Nige. 

Thanks for that .. will wait until Spring and think about how I go about it ... might give you a shout if you still have the tools 

[Entwood]

Given that you need to remove the springs in order to do a proper job, common sense would suggest replacement

Depends whats fitted. There is a lot of shite out there, plus also if the OP has SL springs, choices are limited.

Given the amount of towing, SL springs would be a brave choice

I fitted a pair of standard spec rear springs as recommended by yourself (cant remember the brand at the minute) and imo the rear end feels just right now. Not too soft like s/l springs but not too stiff to interfere with ride comfort. 

mine's the same. The ordinary springs are much easier to find and cheaper than S/L ones too.

Do I read this right ? ... standard springs with self levelling shocks to keep the SL aspect, or do you mean fully replace with standard items ??

SL is VERY useful with the tin tent so I'd prefer to keep it ...

[Nick W]

I fitted a pair of standard spec rear springs as recommended by yourself (cant remember the brand at the minute) and imo the rear end feels just right now. Not too soft like s/l springs but not too stiff to interfere with ride comfort. 

mine's the same. The ordinary springs are much easier to find and cheaper than S/L ones too.

Do I read this right ? ... standard springs with self levelling shocks to keep the SL aspect, or do you mean fully replace with standard items ??

SL is VERY useful with the tin tent so I'd prefer to keep it ...

S/L shocks with standard springs. The springs hold the car up like they should, so the S/L doesn't have to work as hard. The ride is slightly firmer, but that's a good trade off for losing the wallowy back end. I paid about £90 for all four estate springs; less than one standard rear spring from many UK suppliers.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Same here. S/L shocks with standard spec springs. 

[Doctor Gollum]

Plod estate spec the same: Standard or HD springs according to order and self levelling shocks.

Unbeatable combination imho

[tidla]

Given that you need to remove the springs in order to do a proper job, common sense would suggest replacement

Depends whats fitted. There is a lot of shite out there, plus also if the OP has SL springs, choices are limited.

Given the amount of towing, SL springs would be a brave choice

I fitted a pair of standard spec rear springs as recommended by yourself (cant remember the brand at the minute) and imo the rear end feels just right now. Not too soft like s/l springs but not too stiff to interfere with ride comfort. 

mine's the same. The ordinary springs are much easier to find and cheaper than S/L ones too.

Do I read this right ? ... standard springs with self levelling shocks to keep the SL aspect, or do you mean fully replace with standard items ??

SL is VERY useful with the tin tent so I'd prefer to keep it ...

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90537.0

Pic towards the end of the topic shows how the car sits with standard springs, self level shocks.

[Entwood]

Thanks for the info  I'll probably go that way in the spring .. ... seems easier than trying to clean up springs !!

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

I fitted Sachs standard spec springs on the rear of mine as advised by DG. Bought then from caroparts4less ebay shop for£60 the pair.

[Lazydocker]

I fitted standard springs with SL shocks many, many years ago (possibly the first one of us to do it ) and it made the back end a little better IMO. 

[tunnie]

I intend to put S/L shocks back on the back of 3.2 when current GM ones expire/start leaking, as if I do go LPG the S/L would be nice benefit.

Trouble is I've never run the S/L pump in my entire ownership of the car 

The shocks still going strong 

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

I fitted standard springs with SL shocks many, many years ago (possibly the first one of us to do it ) and it made the back end a little better IMO. 

I'm pretty sure you were indeed the first. 

[TheBoy]

Whatever you do, don't attempt the lowered springs (MV6 or aftermarket Irmscher/Eibach etc), as that doesn't work well. At all.

I found standard springs with SL shocks naffed up the handling a little bit, but suspect the OP doesn't drive to that extent. Plus mine was a tractor, so had different front springs anyway.

[TheBoy]

The shocks still going strong 

Your definition and other peoples do vary wildly in this regard...  ...I remember the way your 2.2 used to bounce around all over the place, but you said was fine

[tunnie]

The shocks still going strong 

Your definition and other peoples do vary wildly in this regard...  ...I remember the way your 2.2 used to bounce around all over the place, but you said was fine

Shocks not leaking, therefore still good 

[TheBoy]

The shocks still going strong 

Your definition and other peoples do vary wildly in this regard...  ...I remember the way your 2.2 used to bounce around all over the place, but you said was fine

Shocks not leaking, therefore still good 

I must find a facepalm smiley...

 

[tunnie]

The shocks still going strong 

Your definition and other peoples do vary wildly in this regard...  ...I remember the way your 2.2 used to bounce around all over the place, but you said was fine

Shocks not leaking, therefore still good 

I must find a facepalm smiley...

 

I'd wager many people only change them, when they fail an MOT due to fluid leak....

[Kevin Wood]

The shocks still going strong 

Your definition and other peoples do vary wildly in this regard...  ...I remember the way your 2.2 used to bounce around all over the place, but you said was fine

Shocks not leaking, therefore still good 

I must find a facepalm smiley...

 

I'd wager many people only change them, when they fail an MOT due to fluid leak....

I have to say, I've only changed from the original rear shocks in the last year or so and I was hard pressed to tell any difference from the driver's seat.

[TheBoy]

The shocks still going strong 

Your definition and other peoples do vary wildly in this regard...  ...I remember the way your 2.2 used to bounce around all over the place, but you said was fine

Shocks not leaking, therefore still good 

I must find a facepalm smiley...

 

I'd wager many people only change them, when they fail an MOT due to fluid leak....

Are these the same people who think they can suddenly indicate, then swerve into you lane, expecting you to take evasive action


There are a million and one things that aren't an MOT fail, but should be replaced when worn/misfunctioning/broken.

[TheBoy]

I have to say, I've only changed from the original rear shocks in the last year or so and I was hard pressed to tell any difference from the driver's seat.

I expect you, of all people, to be trying much, much harder

[tunnie]

The shocks still going strong 

Your definition and other peoples do vary wildly in this regard...  ...I remember the way your 2.2 used to bounce around all over the place, but you said was fine

Shocks not leaking, therefore still good 

I must find a facepalm smiley...

 

I'd wager many people only change them, when they fail an MOT due to fluid leak....

I have to say, I've only changed from the original rear shocks in the last year or so and I was hard pressed to tell any difference from the driver's seat.

 

[tunnie]

I have to say, I've only changed from the original rear shocks in the last year or so and I was hard pressed to tell any difference from the driver's seat.

I expect you, of all people, to be trying much, much harder

Can I point out Mr Wood has a car knocking on the door of 200k (least I think it is!)

Perhaps it's just driver error, blaming the shocks.     

[TheBoy]

I have to say, I've only changed from the original rear shocks in the last year or so and I was hard pressed to tell any difference from the driver's seat.

I expect you, of all people, to be trying much, much harder

Can I point out Mr Wood has a car knocking on the door of 200k (least I think it is!)

Perhaps it's just driver error, blaming the shocks.     

By the time mine reached 200k, it was on about its 4th or 5th set of rears.  And as many springs IIRC, but most of that was due to a stint of KYB springs that often fail to last the warranty period

Fronts fair a bit better for me, I think it was scapped on its 3rd set, but they were changed prematurely always for handling reasons, in order to dial ut a bit of that god awful high speed understeer that all Omegas suffer. Never broke an Omega front spring either, only changed to Irmscher for handling reasons.

[TheBoy]

But everyone who drove my beloved Silver Bullet hard knew it handled like an Omega should of.  Very predictable, very planted, very stable, very impressive (for a 2t lux exec barge)

[Nick W]

The shocks still going strong 

Your definition and other peoples do vary wildly in this regard...  ...I remember the way your 2.2 used to bounce around all over the place, but you said was fine

Shocks not leaking, therefore still good 

So Tunnie is female then? Presumably they pass the fabulously useless bounce test as well?