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Author Topic: Audio ampllifier power source  (Read 313 times)

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tigers_gonads

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Audio ampllifier power source
« on: 27 December 2017, 11:38:50 »

Father Christmas got me a very nice amp for the omega's system i'm building.
Normaly when i've fitted this sort of thing, the main power supply comes from the battery with a inline fuse fitted.
Okay, the question is .............. is there heavy duty 12 volt busbar behind the dash that I can tap off to save me running a whopping big cable through the bulkhead of the car OR is it a case of tough titty   :)

The amp is a Focal Auditor 4 x 70 watts ( 4 ohms) RMS so its not exactly lightweight  ;D

TIA  :-*
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Re: Audio ampllifier power source
« Reply #1 on: 27 December 2017, 11:45:03 »

Think you're going to have to go, thro,the bulkhead into engine bay,  same way as the constabluary,use to wire up all the gubbins.
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Audio ampllifier power source
« Reply #2 on: 27 December 2017, 12:52:58 »

Think you're going to have to go, thro,the bulkhead into engine bay,  same way as the constabluary,use to wire up all the gubbins.


Yeh, I was fearing that  :(

Oh well, its glove box out time again  :(

Cheers Griff  :y
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zirk

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Re: Audio ampllifier power source
« Reply #3 on: 27 December 2017, 13:13:46 »

The Amp is the heart of the Sound System in terms of Power Consumption and current drain, so needs to be run directly to the Battery using suitable power gauge cable and fuse (if not supplied).

Keep the Negative cable feed as short as possible (without it being coiled up) to a good clean Chassis / Earth point, also, unless instructed by the Amp Manufacture (for heat reasons), do not bolt to the Amp Chassis to the Car Chassis (Earth), use plastic / rubber grommets or a wooden baffle to secure it.   ;)
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Audio ampllifier power source
« Reply #4 on: 27 December 2017, 13:33:02 »

The Amp is the heart of the Sound System in terms of Power Consumption and current drain, so needs to be run directly to the Battery using suitable power gauge cable and fuse (if not supplied).

Keep the Negative cable feed as short as possible (without it being coiled up) to a good clean Chassis / Earth point, also, unless instructed by the Amp Manufacture (for heat reasons), do not bolt to the Amp Chassis to the Car Chassis (Earth), use plastic / rubber grommets or a wooden baffle to secure it.   ;)


My thoughts precisely Chris but I thought i'd pop the question anyway  :y

How good a earth is the boot floor or am I better off running the neg behind the side panelling and drilling / bolting it to the framework ?

The unit comes with 2 piece plastic mounting grommets  :y

Just popped into Halfrauds and relieved myself of 20 sheckles for one of there VIBE amp fitting kits.
Must say, i'm not a fan of anything audio wise that they sell but this kit seems pretty spot on even down to a LT trigger wire  :y
Shame its only got 2 RCA leads in it so that's something else needed on the shopping list.  :(
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Re: Audio ampllifier power source
« Reply #5 on: 27 December 2017, 15:00:56 »

The Amp is the heart of the Sound System in terms of Power Consumption and current drain, so needs to be run directly to the Battery using suitable power gauge cable and fuse (if not supplied).

Keep the Negative cable feed as short as possible (without it being coiled up) to a good clean Chassis / Earth point, also, unless instructed by the Amp Manufacture (for heat reasons), do not bolt to the Amp Chassis to the Car Chassis (Earth), use plastic / rubber grommets or a wooden baffle to secure it.   ;)


My thoughts precisely Chris but I thought i'd pop the question anyway  :y

How good a earth is the boot floor or am I better off running the neg behind the side panelling and drilling / bolting it to the framework ?

The unit comes with 2 piece plastic mounting grommets  :y

Just popped into Halfrauds and relieved myself of 20 sheckles for one of there VIBE amp fitting kits.
Must say, i'm not a fan of anything audio wise that they sell but this kit seems pretty spot on even down to a LT trigger wire  :y
Shame its only got 2 RCA leads in it so that's something else needed on the shopping list.  :(
 

did yoo get some neons, and a jaunty angled baseball cap, init, for dem banging toons,,, :D :D :D   please don't take it seriously, and flounce :-X
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Re: Audio ampllifier power source
« Reply #6 on: 27 December 2017, 20:46:52 »

If you have a pikey hook fitted, can you not use the feed for the van socket... :-\
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Kevin Wood

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Re: Audio ampllifier power source
« Reply #7 on: 27 December 2017, 21:59:56 »

Best to install a suitably rated feed (will probably need to be 40+amps).
You can install an additional fuse in the Fusible link box that sits above the battery positive terminal, which makes a neat conversion.
Feed the wire through a hole poked in the big rubber grommet behind the cabin filter or on DBW cars you can put a grommet in the vacant hole that used to be used for the throttle cable.
About 7 metres of wire are required to get to the cubby hole in the rear IME.
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Audio ampllifier power source
« Reply #8 on: 28 December 2017, 10:42:42 »

The Amp is the heart of the Sound System in terms of Power Consumption and current drain, so needs to be run directly to the Battery using suitable power gauge cable and fuse (if not supplied).

Keep the Negative cable feed as short as possible (without it being coiled up) to a good clean Chassis / Earth point, also, unless instructed by the Amp Manufacture (for heat reasons), do not bolt to the Amp Chassis to the Car Chassis (Earth), use plastic / rubber grommets or a wooden baffle to secure it.   ;)


My thoughts precisely Chris but I thought i'd pop the question anyway  :y

How good a earth is the boot floor or am I better off running the neg behind the side panelling and drilling / bolting it to the framework ?

The unit comes with 2 piece plastic mounting grommets  :y

Just popped into Halfrauds and relieved myself of 20 sheckles for one of there VIBE amp fitting kits.
Must say, i'm not a fan of anything audio wise that they sell but this kit seems pretty spot on even down to a LT trigger wire  :y
Shame its only got 2 RCA leads in it so that's something else needed on the shopping list.  :(
 

did yoo get some neons, and a jaunty angled baseball cap, init, for dem banging toons,,, :D :D :D   please don't take it seriously, and flounce :-X



I'm that bad smell you can never get rid of  ;D
I'll never leave .............. and that wasn't a challenge yeh bulling bastards  ;D ;D
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Audio ampllifier power source
« Reply #9 on: 28 December 2017, 10:47:02 »

If you have a pikey hook fitted, can you not use the feed for the van socket... :-\


Too lightweight in this case Al
The amp has 2 x 15 amp blade fuses for starters so i'm looking at 10 or 8 awg cable and a inline 40 amp HRC fuse if my Vodka / Guinness / Pear Cider / Whiskey / Black Russian fuelled brain is working correctly  ;D ;D
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Audio ampllifier power source
« Reply #10 on: 28 December 2017, 10:49:30 »

Best to install a suitably rated feed (will probably need to be 40+amps).
You can install an additional fuse in the Fusible link box that sits above the battery positive terminal, which makes a neat conversion.
Feed the wire through a hole poked in the big rubber grommet behind the cabin filter or on DBW cars you can put a grommet in the vacant hole that used to be used for the throttle cable.
About 7 metres of wire are required to get to the cubby hole in the rear IME.


Hoping to get away with 5 meters that came in the kit Kev but I will soon find out 
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