Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[shyboy]

Following on from Raywilb's seal replacement topic, has anyone tried or does anyone know anything about the unconventional method of stuffing rope in the piston bore to prevent crankshaft movement.
Provided the piston was at bdc coming up to compression stroke to ensure all valves are closed to eliminate possible bending, would this work? Youtube videos and comments seem to suggest that it does.
I would still prefer the bolt on type of tool which NickW would no doubt cobble up in a few minutes, but we lesser mortals have to consider all "easier" methods.

[Nick W]

You'll have to stuff a lot of rope into the cylinder to get enough lock to undo a crank bolt. It's normally mentioned as a technique for changing valve stem seals, but I'm not keen on it for that either.

[Kevin Wood]

Indeed. To remove the crank pulley bolt, you need to lock the pulley, not the crank, otherwise there's a chance you could shear the woodruff key or even damage the nose of the crank.

It'd be best to make up a tool that bolts onto the harmonic damper bolts and somewhere on the front of the block.

[Nick W]

Indeed. To remove the crank pulley bolt, you need to lock the pulley, not the crank, otherwise there's a chance you could shear the woodruff key or even damage the nose of the crank.

It'd be best to make up a tool that bolts onto the harmonic damper bolts and somewhere on the front of the block.

A piece of bar with a couple of holes to attach to the pulley, long enough to wedge against the ground will do. The one I fabricobbled to do my crank seal locked against the water pump. The bolt was so tight that I had a serious curve in my breaker bar to undo it. No photos, as I've since repurposed it, but here's the model:





Holes 1&2 bolt to two adjacent holes on the pulley to  loosen the crank bolt, 2&3 hold the bar across the centre of the pulley and 4 is threaded for a bolt to draw the pulley off.

[shyboy]

Yup. I can't really see an alternative to using a sturdy bar to ensure safe results.
Thanks for the replies. I'll have a go at making one when I do the job.
I must say that watching breaker bars and universal joints bend on Youtube frightens the life out of me, but I suppose good ones are designed for the purpose.

[78bex]

I`ve heard some outrageous fun can be had unbolting the crank pulley bolt 
The torque setting is huge me thinks 

[cam.in.head]

Sometimes it’s just easier to cut the bolt head off .providing you can get access. Then that’s half the battle over with. They can be extremely tight to unscrew otherwise even with a long breaker.

[LC0112G]

Sometimes it’s just easier to cut the bolt head off .providing you can get access. Then that’s half the battle over with. They can be extremely tight to unscrew otherwise even with a long breaker.

You'd better hope the last person to do the bolt up hasn't lock-tighted it in if you do that. If they have then your battle has only just started.

[cam.in.head]

That's true .you never know who's been there before you or why they would need to loctite a bolt that going on be so tight anyway !
That's how I got mine off but as you say what if ?

[shyboy]

Am I being stupid? How on earth do you remove the shank of the bolt if you remove the head?

[neil74]

I've just bought a front crank seal but I doubt i'll get round to changing it given how tight the bolt will be..

[Nick W]

Am I being stupid? How on earth do you remove the shank of the bolt if you remove the head?

Removing the head releases the stretch in the bolt.
You then grind a slot in what's left and unscrew it.
In theory any way   In reality, it's a last ditch attempt when you've completely rounded off the bolt head.

[78bex]

Sometimes it’s just easier to cut the bolt head off .providing you can get access. Then that’s half the battle over with. They can be extremely tight to unscrew otherwise even with a long breaker.

You'd better hope the last person to do the bolt up hasn't lock-tighted it in if you do that. If they have then your battle has only just started.

The only  safe way tp proceed is to hold a  heat gun on it for a least 6 minutes first at least this will help budge blue loctite 

[78bex]

I've just bought a front crank seal but I doubt i'll get round to changing it given how tight the bolt will be..

I think you`re forgetting the enormous sense of well meaning  you will have after you win over that booger of a bolt 

[Andy B]

Am I being stupid? How on earth do you remove the shank of the bolt if you remove the head?

A bolt tightens up against the back face of the head. If you remove the head ......  just as Nick W says the bolt  shouldn't now be tight