Omega Owners Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Please play nicely.  No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....

Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: V6 starter motor change  (Read 12740 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

GastronomicKleptomaniac

  • Omega Baron
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Teesside (the nice bit)
  • Posts: 3922
    • 3.2 plod, 2.6 MV6, etc
    • View Profile
V6 starter motor change
« on: 14 June 2012, 19:14:32 »

It seems to be an affliction of the 3.2s, but this guide is how to change the starter on any of the V6 models. A fiddly job, but not too bad once you've tuned your hands in.

Safety first - you are responsible for your own idiocy. Don't try to sue me if you have an eye out, you, and only you are in charge of looking after yourself. I personally wear barrier cream and decent mechanics gloves to protect my hands, and some overalls and steel-capped boots, just in case you drop something on your toe.
 
 First of all, make sure you're on a level surface, the car's handbrake is on, and wheels are chocked to stop them moving. Do not lift the car using the scissor jack, always use a proper one (preferably a trolley) - and support it in as many places as possible - stands under the chassis rails, for example. For this job, I dropped the front of the car onto some ramps, since the wheels can stay on.
 
 What the starter looks like -

<SSL25513>


<SSL25512>


<SSL25511>


Tools needed -

Trolley jack and ramps or stands

15mm and 16mm Ring spanners and sockets
Ratchet and variety of extension bars (for engine mount and plate)

10mm and 13mm sockets and 1/4" ratchet (for terminals and battery connection)

E12 socket and extension (for starter bolts)

7mm (I think) socket (for hose clips at front of plenum)

Flat screwdriver (for removing clip from coolant bottle)

 So, onwards to the removal.

 - Park the car where you need it, handbrake on, remove the key. Chock the wheels, pop the bonnet.

- Disconnect the battery negative terminal and tie or wedge it somewhere where it can't spring back.

- Have a cuppa.

- Loosen the hose clips around the front multiram-plenum connection. Remove the bag pipes from the throttle body, but leave them attached at the bottom. This is to give the engine room to move up and down.

<SSL25531>


- Unclip the coolant bottle and be ready to tie it out of the way (or have a willing assistant to hand)

<SSL25514>


<SSL25520>

  - Lift the front of the car onto some ramps, or onto axle stands under the chassis rails. Remove the jack.

 - Using a block of wood on a jack, support the engine via the sump. Try to get the jack in from the passenger side so it's not in the way.

- Undo the top driver's side engine mount nut, remove, and store safely.

<SSL25530>

- From beneath, using a ring spanner, loosen and remove the lower nut of the mount. Don't drop it.

- Gradually jack the engine so as to be able to remove the mount. I lifted the mount, turned it 90 degrees, and then pulled it out from the front of the engine. You're left with this -

<SSL25519>

- Unbolt the cable holder from the engine plate - one 10mm bolt holding it in.

<SSL25528>
« Last Edit: 16 September 2012, 20:05:44 by Jimbob »
Logged
Servicing and repairs done in NE. Special rates for OOFers! PM me.

GastronomicKleptomaniac

  • Omega Baron
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Teesside (the nice bit)
  • Posts: 3922
    • 3.2 plod, 2.6 MV6, etc
    • View Profile
Re: How-to - V6 starter motor change (new non-Flickr-pics)
« Reply #1 on: 14 June 2012, 19:21:32 »

- Now you can access the four 15mm bolts holding the engine mount plate to the engine. Use a variety of sockets, extensions, and bars, in order to get onto them - and a deep socket to get the one in the recess.

<SSL25525>

- Once the bolts are nearly out, move your head out of the way and remove the plate. Pop it safely out of the way with the bolts.

<SSL25523>

 - Now we can access the two E12 bolts holding the starter to the engine. Remove the bottom one first, then get the top one from above the engine. Remove the bolts entirely, and yes, of course, keep them safe.

<SSL25522>


- Wiggle the starter out so you can get onto the terminals from above - rest it on the chassis

<SSL25517>

- Remove the connections - 13mm large, 10mm small.

- Remove the starter, and either keep it safe, or throw it into the bin/ a skip/ next door's garden

- Get your spangly new starter, rest it in the same place as you had the old, and refit the connections. Make sure you pop them on the same way round, else you'll be fighting the kink in the wire. Tighten the nuts.

- Wiggle the starter back into place, refit the top bolt by a few threads, then go below and fit the bottom one. Tighten them both.

- Refit the plate to the engine, loosely pop the bolts in by hand, then give them a final tighten.

- Reattach the cable holder using the 10mm bolt.

- Maneuver the engine mount back into place, dropping the engine as necessary, refit the nuts, and tighten.

- Reattach the pipes at the front of the plenum.

- Reconnect the battery.

- Mentally check off every nut and bolt as being tight.

- Test the starter operation.

- Drop the car back onto the floor.

-Have a cuppa (made by your willing assistant)

Job jobbed.
« Last Edit: 16 September 2012, 10:38:24 by Jimbob »
Logged
Servicing and repairs done in NE. Special rates for OOFers! PM me.
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.037 seconds with 21 queries.