Ignoring the anti-theft codes (maybe these are unrelated and due to swapping between keys )
Also ignoring the ABS/traction faults (maybe because the calculated stalled engine speed did not match the speed of ABS ,gearbox etc ) the symptoms are just like what I had a while back .
Fuel delivery (lack of )
I ordered a new Bosch pump ,but when I went to fit it ,noticed a split in the fuel line between the outlet of the pump and the metal pipe of the pump assembly
the split in the pipe must open up occasionally and pumping the fuel back into the tank , so no external evidence of a leak .
the fuel line was deteriorated ,but again ,no visual evidence because the pipe is inside the tank .
not saying you have a dab pipe , it could be the pump itself perhaps ,or wiring issue
mine's a 53 plate 2.6 saloon CDXi ,not that the above couldn't happen to any model
if you get a crank but no start ,maybe try cracking open the 19mm fuel union that sits above 1.3.5
NO squirty = fuel pump NO worky
The ECU doesn't run the pump until it senses pulses from the crank sensor. (unlike some, VW for example, that pulse the pump when you first turn the key to pressurise the fuel pipework)
Yes
but
if you have cranked the engine and it's failed to start then the pump will have pressurised the rail
so cracking the union above 1.3.5 should squirt fuel *
*provided you don't leave it ages after cranking ,no leaks and the pump is pumping
The pump won't run if the if the ECU doesn't see pulses from the crank sensor. Don't assume that cranking the engine will cause the pump to run (even though it should).
Over 14 years & 170,000 miles I had 3 'failure to proceed' events caused by the crank sensor failing. (I also had charging problems due ageing wiring and a blown alternator regulator.)
The cars are older now so there will be failure modes that I didn't see in a 10 year old car.