Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Sebaz on 27 October 2017, 23:30:06
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When the car starts to warm up it pushes the water out the reservoir and will cause it to overheat.
I don't have water in the oil, nor do I have oil in the water and none coming out the tailpipe, so i don't think its a blown headgasket.
I have had a diesel at work do the same thing when the egr went bad.
Any help would be appreciated.
2001 Cadillac Catera. I come here because you know a ton more about these cars than anyone here
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Blocked rad and thermostat :-\
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I hadn't thought about the radiator. I was gonna take the thermostat out and see if it fixed it, but it doesn't look like it comes apart from the housing and it isn't that easy to get to here, not like my old gm
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I hadn't thought about the radiator. I was gonna take the thermostat out and see if it fixed it, but it doesn't look like it comes apart from the housing and it isn't that easy to get to here, not like my old gm
Here do...
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Cadillac-Catera-CTS-Saturn-Vue-L-series-Thermostat-Housing-W-Thermostat-55353492/200914781107?epid=76497718&hash=item2ec77443b3%3Am%3AmNRPVEWgDhXwhjeidfO9bzQ&_trkparms=pageci%253A18433c1e-bb70-11e7-bbe5-74dbd1804568%257Cparentrq%253A60348ccb15f0a9cc2a5e369cfffc890e%257Ciid%253A8 ::)
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I hadn't thought about the radiator. I was gonna take the thermostat out and see if it fixed it, but it doesn't look like it comes apart from the housing and it isn't that easy to get to here, not like my old gm
No, thermostats on a V6 aren't the easiest of things to get to :( http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90647.0
Might be an idea to buy a new transfer pipe before you start the job, or at least know you can get one as they have a habit of not letting go of the 'stat
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Is it straight away, or as it heats up?
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It starts after about 5 minutes, as it heats up it seems
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Hmm, before it blows out of the cap, what is the temp doing?
Persumably the aux belt is in tack, and the water pump is spinning?
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It starts after about 5 minutes, as it heats up it seems
That sounds like the thermostat to me. Considering what a pain it is to do on the V6 and how cheap they are to buy(you can buy just the 'stat without the housing but it's not worth doing), I would replace it with a new one. Checking the water pump would be a good idea too.
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I thought I had it fixed. I took the thermostat completely out of the housing (mainly because I would have to order one, because the one I bought was made different), so I know there isn't anything to block it there. Drove it for 15 minutes and it pushed the water back out steaming. The temperature gauge was middle of the gauge, so not overheating according to the gauge.
I did have the timing belt, water pump, and components replaced about 2000 miles before this started happening. All replaced with AC DELCO parts. How can I tell if the Water Pump isn't turning without having a look into the radiator?
The only other thing I notice is the oil pressure has been different since the timing belt replacement, It will be at 75 until it warms up then it drops to where it should be and operates as it is supposed to.
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Is the rubber washer on the cap in good condition?
Did you have the problem before the new pump was fitted? If it is suspect then you probably just need to dive in and take it out to inspect it.
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Check if the following may point to something;
A. Are the Auxilliary radiator cooling fans coming on when needed (search for a document on this forum on how to test the proper relay operation)
Note: If possible make sure that you keep the coolant strength up to par while replenshing with de-mineralized water or distilled water. Various coolant strengths will affect how much the cooling fans are needed and how often these come on-off.
Good luck
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Could you clarify the coolant strength versus fan operation for me, please?
Do the fans come on more or less as coolant strength increases?
Ron.
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Coolant strength? The fans have no idea what that is, just goes on engine temp. There is a sensor/connector is on the coolant bridge, but I can't remember if that's just for the dash :-\
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Hmm, before it blows out of the cap, what is the temp doing?
Persumably the aux belt is in tack, and the water pump is spinning?
The temp doesn't get high (according to the gauge)
Coolant is dex cool 50% as recommended, although I drove home with probably a 25% mix since I refilled with just water
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Is the rubber washer on the cap in good condition?
Did you have the problem before the new pump was fitted? If it is suspect then you probably just need to dive in and take it out to inspect it.
No problem until new timing belt and water pump and pulleys
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Is the rubber washer on the cap in good condition?
Did you have the problem before the new pump was fitted? If it is suspect then you probably just need to dive in and take it out to inspect it.
No problem until new timing belt and water pump and pulleys
Hmmm
It is not unusual for new water pumps to fail soon after being fitted unfortunately :(
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Could you clarify the coolant strength versus fan operation for me, please?
Do the fans come on more or less as coolant strength increases?
Ron.
Ron I know the fans are not activated by coolant strength.
However the time it takes to reach the trigger point for activation of fans is related to efficiency of cooling and also to the heat carrying and transfer capacities of the coolant as it circulates. What I noticed in my car was that I had proper Dexcool mixture at one time. I flushed it and for replacement I used Prestone Orange Dexcool compatible coolant. In this situation I was reaching the trigger point for cooling fans much faster and quite frequently. However I never had a a boil-over or steam-over.
I hope that clarifies my comment or post and answers your question.
Regards.
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Yes thanks; in other words, it relates to coolant efficiency?
Once upon a long time ago I had a slight(!) overheating problem with my Carlton 2.2 petrol and added a product called "Water-Wetter", by the Red Line Oil company, which claimed to lower the coiolant temperature by 10 degrees C or more - and it did!
Ron.
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Thermostat needs to be fitted and working in order for the cooling system to function correctly...
I would wager that if you drive the car with the gearbox locked in 2/3* rather than D, it wouldn't blow the coolant out ;)
* 2nd for urban roads, 3rd for highway speeds ;)
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Just had a similar thing on my van. Pipes were not pressurizing thou so new coolant cap sorted it.
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:D ;D
I (cross my fingers) think i've fixed it. The reservoir cap was bad, the rubber part had a split in it. Put on a new cap and it hasn't happened. I let it run for about 30 minutes then drove it and nothing coming out.
Thanks :y
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Hope that sorts your problem :y Nice easy,cheap fixes are always a plus point ;)
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Hope that sorts your problem :y Nice easy,cheap fixes are always a plus point ;)
yes, I wish I had tried it before I fought with the thermostat, before I tried the thermostat I let the car sit for almost a year just moving it around thinking the head gasket was blown.