Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Lizzie Zoom on 15 September 2018, 14:56:43
-
Some time ago there was a post on here discussing how to jack up an Omega whilst using axle stands.
A number said it could not be easily done, if at all, whilst I said it could be.
Well, here you go, this is proof of how I do it:
(https://s8.postimg.cc/xoa4fenc5/DSC02122.jpg)
For those very H&S aware: There is space for another axle stand once you remove the trolley jack ;)
-
Yup, tight but doable. That's how I do my 3.2, also, have you taken your sill covers off recently? :)
-
Yup, tight but doable. That's how I do my 3.2, also, have you taken your sill covers off recently? :)
I was just thinking the same thing. Could be a shock in store by the look of it.
-
Yup, tight but doable. That's how I do my 3.2, also, have you taken your sill covers off recently? :)
You really dont want to look at them, not on an Omega these days anyway. :-X ;D
-
Yup, tight but doable. That's how I do my 3.2, also, have you taken your sill covers off recently? :)
Yes, the body repair shop that rebuilt the front of my Omega did, and reported all was fine. In the photo that is the nearside, where there is solid, but rust covered metal. The offside is excellent in that same area. Whilst just inspecting the brakes this morning I have also double checked the sills along their entire lengths, and still all is solid with no rust at at all on any part of the chassis and surrounding areas, just that area where rust is on top of the metal as in the photo.
The bodyshop in question, whose owner/driver has an excellent CV developed in the motor industry over years and proved his worth with the front end, will soon be rebuilding the rear arches and making the whole back end like new to match the front. My car is a very late example with now just 75K on the clock and is always kept garaged and I wager still one of the best Omega's out there in terms of overall condition. I could leave it all and it would all be good for another 5 years, but I am trying to age proof this example as I want to keep it as long as possible, barring accidents etc, and investing time and money now!!
I may be mad (on Omega's), but hey ho!! ::) ::) ::) ;D ;)
-
.......................after all that I said I am now frightened with all the recent comments on the forum about rusting sills that I will be definitely getting my profession body shop friend Lloyd to inspect / carry out any work necessary on the sills to make them 100%!! :o ::) :D :y
-
I wouldn't get under that :o
Axle stand goes where the jack is and the jack goes onto the sill rail with a block of wood. The channel on the support plate will sit comfortably in the cup of the axle stand.
Chock both front wheels. Lift the car high enough to get the lowest axle stand under it. Repeat on opposite side. Reposition the jack and raise to working height and extend the axle stand. Remove jack until further required.
Drop in reverse order.
None of the above is negotiable.
-
He,s right. :y
-
He,s right. :y
He is.
Although he missed out use a bigger jack
-
.......................after all that I said I am now frightened with all the recent comments on the forum about rusting sills that I will be definitely getting my profession body shop friend Lloyd to inspect / carry out any work necessary on the sills to make them 100%!! :o ::) :D :y
And the chassis rails Lizzie :y ;D
any pics of you Omega ? can't seem to find any
sounds nice and a keeper,only 75k
thought I did well to find a low mile garaged example (recently i clocked 77,777)
-
That's a girls jack ;D
That aside, as others have said, the positioning isn't right, and better ways of doing it. Even with proper jacks.
-
If the jack is capable of lifting the car, then its big enough. If you have to carry the jack to the car, its best to have the smallest, lightest one you can get as long as it can lift the car imo.
-
That's a girls jack ;D
That aside, as others have said, the positioning isn't right, and better ways of doing it. Even with proper jacks.
You are all absolutely right, but I have been doing it that way, on many cars, for decades. What you don't see is the fact that I keep any removed wheel under the car near the jacked up end of the car, plus car ramps also wedged under the vehicle.
I am no silly cow, and I am trained in H&S assessment, but I do love tacking some risk ;D ;D
The only jacking scare I have ever had was when a scissor jack collapsed whilst changing a spare wheel outside Blackpool. Now that WAS scarry :o :o :D ;)
-
If the jack is capable of lifting the car, then its big enough. If you have to carry the jack to the car, its best to have the smallest, lightest one you can get as long as it can lift the car imo.
That's right, and my jack is rated at 2 tons. Is an Omega heavier than that as a whole, let alone on each corner when commonly used? ::) :D ;)
-
Put my axle stand UNDER the wishbone, today. Wish I'd taken a photo now.
-
Put my axle stand UNDER the wishbone, today. Wish I'd taken a photo now.
It's better under the car's structure where nothing can move; where the chassis rail meets the front jacking point, or the subframe depending on what you're going to work on.
Lizzie mentioned putting the wheel under the car, which is always a good idea.
-
Put my axle stand UNDER the wishbone, today. Wish I'd taken a photo now.
It's better under the car's structure where nothing can move; where the chassis rail meets the front jacking point, or the subframe depending on what you're going to work on.
Lizzie mentioned putting the wheel under the car, which is always a good idea.
Always put the wheel under the sill as that's how the scouts trained me (Was there a tyre change badge ?)
I was replacing the steering ends. It seemed VERY solid. I gave it a push before I started.
-
Putting a wheel under the sill is fine for a roadside wheel change...
Ultimately though, it is no substitute for proper support as all it is designed to achieve is to enable you to reposition the jack should it slip as it prevents the sill from reaching the floor.
What it won't do if you're working under the car is prevent you from being trapped or worse...
-
.......................after all that I said I am now frightened with all the recent comments on the forum about rusting sills that I will be definitely getting my profession body shop friend Lloyd to inspect / carry out any work necessary on the sills to make them 100%!! :o ::) :D :y
And the chassis rails Lizzie :y ;D
any pics of you Omega ? can't seem to find any
sounds nice and a keeper,only 75k
thought I did well to find a low mile garaged example (recently i clocked 77,777)
Here is the latest Dave:
(https://s8.postimg.cc/6dq8hagx1/Car_Repaired_2017.jpg)
;)
-
One dark night, when nobody is looking..... :-X
Ron.
-
One dark night, when nobody is looking..... :-X
Ron.
The thread is about raising an omega off the ground for maintenance "Jacking"
NOT jacking one as in stealing one ;D
It's very nice Lizzie , just don't let Ron borrow the key :P
-
Oi Dave - don't warn her!
(Ron)
-
One dark night, when nobody is looking..... :-X
Ron.
The thread is about raising an omega off the ground for maintenance "Jacking"
NOT jacking one as in stealing one ;D
It's very nice Lizzie , just don't let Ron borrow the key :P
;D ;D ;D ;D ;)
-
Don't need the key :-X
-
Time to move Lizzie ,and not disclose on here where too ;D
I live in high street Scotland BTW :y
-
Time to move Lizzie ,and not disclose on here where too ;D
I live in high street Scotland BTW :y
Don't worry Dave, that picture was taken well away from where I live - in Malta! :P :P ;D ;D ;)
-
I live on Fair Isle, so it's probably safe until spring... :D
-
I carry a halfords low profile 2 ton jack in the boot after last trying to jack thru soft tarmac ::)
The advanced 2 ton looks usable but @ £120 with a foot pedal :-\
https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-workshop/trolley-jacks/halfords-advanced-2-tonne-low-profile-trolley-jack (https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-workshop/trolley-jacks/halfords-advanced-2-tonne-low-profile-trolley-jack)
The 3 ton is £50 & looks good value,
https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-workshop/trolley-jacks/halfords-3-tonne-hydraulic-trolley-jack (https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-workshop/trolley-jacks/halfords-3-tonne-hydraulic-trolley-jack)
-
I have been looking at getting a new jack, eventually, and this one particularly looked good for getting a miggie up in the air:
https://www.sgs-engineering.com/tj3b-3-ton-trolley-jack-and-jacking-beam?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3KzdBRDWARIsAIJ8TMQqT5zdVNgUJgncxggnGM9rQUXkFD_guzT8x9y4rPnCrl3AFIAKGn4aAmCIEALw_wcB
:D ;)
-
I have the same jack, without the beam attachment. Its strong, sturdy, and the low saddle height is great. Its also heavy to carry any distance though. But its superb for the price. I don't think SGS can be beaten for their combination of quality and price.
-
Decent bit of kit for the price,but think the jacking beam would be pointless on general service work.
I always find the twist grip release systems abit hit,n,miss for good control .My Yankee CX3000 is quite "trigger happy" when it comes to releasing but will get the Omega up in the air effortlessly and to a fair height too...think I paid about £100 for it but that was 7/8years ago.Its abig heavy bugger though
-
Decent bit of kit for the price,but think the jacking beam would be pointless on general service work.
I always find the twist grip release systems abit hit,n,miss for good control .My Yankee CX3000 is quite "trigger happy" when it comes to releasing but will get the Omega up in the air effortlessly and to a fair height too...think I paid about £100 for it but that was 7/8years ago.Its abig heavy bugger though
Get a set of large grips on the handle at 90°, you can give it the eighth/quarter turn it needs to let it down gently.
-
Decent bit of kit for the price,but think the jacking beam would be pointless on general service work.
I always find the twist grip release systems abit hit,n,miss for good control .My Yankee CX3000 is quite "trigger happy" when it comes to releasing but will get the Omega up in the air effortlessly and to a fair height too...think I paid about £100 for it but that was 7/8years ago.Its abig heavy bugger though
Get a set of large grips on the handle at 90°, you can give it the eighth/quarter turn it needs to let it down gently.
Gluing the rubber handle on makes a BIG difference
-
2 very sensible solutions to a problem I,ve had with my trolley jack. :y
-
Gluing the rubber handle on makes a BIG difference
Made a big difference to the stick in my glider too, when the handle came off following a winch cable break at 400 feet. :o
.. as did the fresh underwear. :-X
-
I use an Arcan lightweight one. Previously had an Arcan XL3000 one, which amazingly mostly survived the garage incident, but could obviously never be trusted after. Both highly recommended, both around the £100 mark from Costco.
-
Gluing the rubber handle on makes a BIG difference
Made a big difference to the stick in my glider too, when the handle came off following a winch cable break at 400 feet. :o
.. as did the fresh underwear. :-X
Was there a little bit of clench going on?
-
I use an Arcan lightweight one. Previously had an Arcan XL3000 one, which amazingly mostly survived the garage incident, but could obviously never be trusted after. Both highly recommended, both around the £100 mark from Costco.
Likewise and from Costco too :y
-
Gluing the rubber handle on makes a BIG difference
Made a big difference to the stick in my glider too, when the handle came off following a winch cable break at 400 feet. :o
.. as did the fresh underwear. :-X
Was there a little bit of clench going on?
First items on the list are to lower the nose to a safe attitude, check the airspeed, release the remains of the cable and decide where you're going to land.
"Clench" comes a bit further down the list.
Unfortunately, given that item 1 isn't easily achieved with just a rubber handle in your right hand and your other hand flailing around the cockpit trying to find the rest of the stick, I was unable to progress further down the checklist for a few vital seconds... :-[
-
Unfortunately, given that item 1 isn't easily achieved with just a rubber handle in your right hand and your other hand flailing around the cockpit trying to find the rest of the stick, I was unable to progress further down the checklist for a few vital seconds... :-[
So a bit like this, but with more altitude? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlGZ5rr_v6A ;D
-
Gluing the rubber handle on makes a BIG difference
Made a big difference to the stick in my glider too, when the handle came off following a winch cable break at 400 feet. :o
.. as did the fresh underwear. :-X
Was there a little bit of clench going on?
First items on the list are to lower the nose to a safe attitude, check the airspeed, release the remains of the cable and decide where you're going to land.
"Clench" comes a bit further down the list.
Unfortunately, given that item 1 isn't easily achieved with just a rubber handle in your right hand and your other hand flailing around the cockpit trying to find the rest of the stick, I was unable to progress further down the checklist for a few vital seconds... :-[
Sorry, I know that's a serious situation, but I can't help but chuckle ;D
-
Gluing the rubber handle on makes a BIG difference
Made a big difference to the stick in my glider too, when the handle came off following a winch cable break at 400 feet. :o
.. as did the fresh underwear. :-X
Was there a little bit of clench going on?
First items on the list are to lower the nose to a safe attitude, check the airspeed, release the remains of the cable and decide where you're going to land.
"Clench" comes a bit further down the list.
Unfortunately, given that item 1 isn't easily achieved with just a rubber handle in your right hand and your other hand flailing around the cockpit trying to find the rest of the stick, I was unable to progress further down the checklist for a few vital seconds... :-[
Sorry, I know that's a serious situation, but I can't help but chuckle ;D
No apology needed. I would be daft to get into a glider if it wasn't routine and (usually) not eventful at all. Especially now they've changed the steel cable to plastic stuff again*.
* - the last time - 5 ish years ago, it wasn't a total success. :(
-
At least steel doesn't go brittle in daylight... ::)
Flip side, plastic cable will allow the big block winch spool up quicker 8)
-
At least steel doesn't go brittle in daylight... ::)
Flip side, plastic cable will allow the big block winch spool up quicker 8)
.. something it already does plenty quick enough. ;D
It is worth a little more height on the launch, admittedly.