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[Doctor Gollum]

Basically, anything that left the factory with a cat requires a type approved one. Regardless of age.

If you lived in Durban or Damascus, then save the money and fit the cheaper ones. But you don't.

[biggriffin]

Hmmm. Just been looking at that well known internet auction site so beloved of many on here

Seems like I can get replacement catalytic converters & pipes for about £50 a side delivered. Or I can get "Type Approved" ones for about £125 a side.

Anyone know what the difference (besides £75 a side) between the two is. Do I care if they're type approved or not?

And Yes I realise I'll have to get the lambdas out of the old pipes, or buy new ones of those too. But for circa £100 seems like a whole load of aggro saved.

 To be honest, nobody will check weather they are Emarked or not, they might if you lived in Germany and it was undergoing a TUV, but here in blighty, fit the cheap ones.

[LC0112G]

Basically, anything that left the factory with a cat requires a type approved one. Regardless of age.

If you lived in Durban or Damascus, then save the money and fit the cheaper ones. But you don't.

Sorry, but that simply isn't true. Only cars first used on the road since 1st March 2001 (Y reg or later) need to use type approved replacement cats. That means that for the vast majority of Omegas fitting non type approved cats is fully compliant with the law. However since mine is a Y reg 

[henryd]

Basically, anything that left the factory with a cat requires a type approved one. Regardless of age.

If you lived in Durban or Damascus, then save the money and fit the cheaper ones. But you don't.

Sorry, but that simply isn't true. Only cars first used on the road since 1st March 2001 (Y reg or later) need to use type approved replacement cats. That means that for the vast majority of Omegas fitting non type approved cats is fully compliant with the law. However since mine is a Y reg 

^^ this is true, having ordered cats for post 2001 and being refused the cheap ones(Golf mk4 1.6) cheap for up to 2001 about £50 ,2001 onwards double that and they look identical

[Doctor Gollum]

I once had a debate with a tester regarding a cat delete on a '92 Granada Cosworth following an impact with a manhole cover... The idea being to simply swap out the smashed cats with the earlier downpipes.

That was the answer I was given then, circa 2004, and subsequent recent investigations into cat deletes on mid nineties cars produced nothing to contradict this.

If a car left the factory with a cat then it will be on the list regardless of the guidance criteria.

Basically boils down to the emissions testing criteria, and if the car should have a cat then it gets tested as such... Without the cat, it will fail.

Type approved cats are more expensive regardless of similarities because they are tested to ensure compliance with the vehicle type approval. Exactly the same as fitting non approved headlights etc 

[henryd]

this sort of Clarifies

https://eactelford.co.uk/catalyst-type-approval/

[Doctor Gollum]

this sort of Clarifies

https://eactelford.co.uk/catalyst-type-approval/

[Enceladus]

A 'type approved' Cat means that the part is designed and manufactured such that the performance and lifespan is supposed to be at least as good as the original (and also type approved) factory part.

It's illegal in the UK to sell a non type approved Cat for fitment to any vehicle first registered after the 1st March 2001. The EU is similar.

However it's legal in the UK to fit non approved parts in the rest of the exhaust. Most of the rest of Europe don't permit this. EG Germany.

Non type approved cats for earlier vehicles can be of inferior quality with less precious metal. Hence they are cheaper. They won't last as long as a type approved version and will be less efficient.

A type approved Cat usually has the certificate embossed on the bottom of the main cat body, where it can easily be read with the car on a ramp.

[Nick W]

Hmmm. Just been looking at that well known internet auction site so beloved of many on here

Seems like I can get replacement catalytic converters & pipes for about £50 a side delivered. Or I can get "Type Approved" ones for about £125 a side.

Anyone know what the difference (besides £75 a side) between the two is. Do I care if they're type approved or not?

And Yes I realise I'll have to get the lambdas out of the old pipes, or buy new ones of those too. But for circa £100 seems like a whole load of aggro saved.

 To be honest, nobody will check weather they are Emarked or not, they might if you lived in Germany and it was undergoing a TUV, but here in blighty, fit the cheap ones.

That. The MOT tester will be pointing out all the visible structural rust to even look at the cats, let alone worry about them being 'approved'

[biggriffin]

A 'type approved' Cat means that the part is designed and manufactured such that the performance and lifespan is supposed to be at least as good as the original (and also type approved) factory part.

It's illegal in the UK to sell a non type approved Cat for fitment to any vehicle first registered after the 1st March 2001. The EU is similar.

However it's legal in the UK to fit non approved parts in the rest of the exhaust. Most of the rest of Europe don't permit this. EG Germany.

Non type approved cats for earlier vehicles can be of inferior quality with less precious metal. Hence they are cheaper. They won't last as long as a type approved version and will be less efficient.

A

 I've never had any vehicle I've presented for Mot/ car or Hgv, looked at for an EU mark anywhere.. The only one was Dvsa do check load rating of tyres, and the age on hgv's.

[LC0112G]

Well I bit the bullet yesterday and today at 11:30 the UPS van turned up at the front door.



Close up of the manifold end. Can't see anything to worry about here :



Close up of the mid pipe joins.



Hmmm. Threaded M10 holes into the flange again. Really tempted to drill these out and just use stainless nuts and bolts to join everything up. Other option is to use stainless bolts into these threaded holes. What does the collective hive mind here think?

[STEMO]

Are you likely to ever have to remove them again? If so, I'd go the nut and bolt way. If not......whichever is easier for you.

[Nick W]

Nuts and bolts everytime. I wouldn't use stainless if there was even a tiny possibility that I might ever have to undo them

[biggriffin]

Drill the flanges, out, fit nuts n bolts. 5/16 drill bit, then fit M8, nuts/bolts.

[Andy B]

Nuts and bolts everytime. I wouldn't use stainless if there was even a tiny possibility that I might ever have to undo them

They'd easily shear if you did have to undo them again ...