1
Omega General Help / Re: Bonnet auxiliary/emergency release mod?
« on: 09 January 2022, 00:15:10 »
nothing missing thankfully but a clean up wont go amiss anyway.
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2
Omega General Help / Re: Bonnet auxiliary/emergency release mod?
« on: 08 January 2022, 23:09:20 »
I will thanks - do you think the couple of heavy slams of the bonnet might have mal-adjusted the alignment?
3
Omega General Help / Re: Bonnet auxiliary/emergency release mod?
« on: 08 January 2022, 20:18:27 »
good point Nick; I will see if the spring is compressible, however it is lubricated.
4
Omega General Help / Re: Bonnet auxiliary/emergency release mod?
« on: 08 January 2022, 20:05:57 »
many thanks; it's always good to share tips!
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Omega General Help / Re: Bonnet auxiliary/emergency release mod?
« on: 08 January 2022, 14:12:02 »
The latch and release are greased with white lithium regularly, I assure the doubters among you (you know who you are).....So are the door locks and any pivots.
Thankfully the car has not had an impact so that aspect is ok, but I agree, the cross member is not to be trifled with. No, I was thinking of similar aux/emergency pulls on on other cars where another cable piggy-backs of the same latch as the main cable. The aux cable would be much shorter and therefore less susceptible to stretching, and have far less use of course. Trouble is I cannot see the attachment point near the latch, even using a mirror.
Whilst the tips here are most appreciated, the initial point of this post was to see if anyone HAS fitted an aux release, not to be informed that "you shouldn't need one"; that is evident: I shouldn't need a spare key to the house, or funnily enough my email account, but thankfully this week, I did have (both - hence delay in responding)....
However, the bonnet struts did give way twice last week (car is on a steep slope) and the bonnet slammed down- not sure if that would have jolted the latch out of position slightly?
Ref the adjustment of the cable, can the clamp bolt be TOO tight so as to bind the inner cable, I wonder? I suspect that the cable has indeed stretched though and I have now moved the cable outer another 5mm. The out cable is about 10mm back from its initial position now, I reckon.
I've looked at the grille too: those retaining screws are VERY tight into plastic and look like they will prefer to crack the plastic or round off the cross-heads.
Andy H - yes that's how I managed the bonnet open: a passing student assisted. Good things, these Degrees.
Grifter - with the trick aren't you rising a cracked light?
Ref the airbag bladder - good idea.
Thanks as ever.
RDS
Thankfully the car has not had an impact so that aspect is ok, but I agree, the cross member is not to be trifled with. No, I was thinking of similar aux/emergency pulls on on other cars where another cable piggy-backs of the same latch as the main cable. The aux cable would be much shorter and therefore less susceptible to stretching, and have far less use of course. Trouble is I cannot see the attachment point near the latch, even using a mirror.
Whilst the tips here are most appreciated, the initial point of this post was to see if anyone HAS fitted an aux release, not to be informed that "you shouldn't need one"; that is evident: I shouldn't need a spare key to the house, or funnily enough my email account, but thankfully this week, I did have (both - hence delay in responding)....
However, the bonnet struts did give way twice last week (car is on a steep slope) and the bonnet slammed down- not sure if that would have jolted the latch out of position slightly?
Ref the adjustment of the cable, can the clamp bolt be TOO tight so as to bind the inner cable, I wonder? I suspect that the cable has indeed stretched though and I have now moved the cable outer another 5mm. The out cable is about 10mm back from its initial position now, I reckon.
I've looked at the grille too: those retaining screws are VERY tight into plastic and look like they will prefer to crack the plastic or round off the cross-heads.
Andy H - yes that's how I managed the bonnet open: a passing student assisted. Good things, these Degrees.
Grifter - with the trick aren't you rising a cracked light?
Ref the airbag bladder - good idea.
Thanks as ever.
RDS
6
Omega General Help / Re: Bonnet auxiliary/emergency release mod?
« on: 07 January 2022, 01:17:51 »
Thanks chum; that was done per the maintenance guide, but I am after a different approach as requested!
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Omega General Help / Bonnet auxiliary/emergency release mod?
« on: 07 January 2022, 00:12:55 »
Has anyone managed to work out how to fit a permanent emergency bonnet release activated from outside the car, eg dangling pull chord etc for the facelift model. I do not mean the tool described in the FAQ/Maintenance guide but as something to prevent the need for that by planning ahead and fitting permanently.
I managed to open my bonnet finally and do not want to go through that worry again (yes, I appreciate that fitting a replacement cable will stave off the reoccurrence at least for a while, but that isn't the point here) and thought that an auxiliary pull might be a good idea (low-life excepted). I have already pulled back the outer cable and there must be a limit to that trick....
Looking at the bonnet release, it seems sandwiched between two sheets of the slam panel and I could see no easy way; however brighter sparks than me might have already done it, so please share!
Cheers
RDS
I managed to open my bonnet finally and do not want to go through that worry again (yes, I appreciate that fitting a replacement cable will stave off the reoccurrence at least for a while, but that isn't the point here) and thought that an auxiliary pull might be a good idea (low-life excepted). I have already pulled back the outer cable and there must be a limit to that trick....
Looking at the bonnet release, it seems sandwiched between two sheets of the slam panel and I could see no easy way; however brighter sparks than me might have already done it, so please share!
Cheers
RDS
8
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Fuse con-fuse-ion: parasitic draw
« on: 29 December 2021, 13:03:57 »
Again for future reference, Consumer delay relay K153 is described on another post as a 9 pin [another post says 8 pin] yellow relay with part number GM 24427610. I cannot confirm or deny however!
here is a link to another post with the location, behind the fuse box under the steering wheel
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=66529.msg939800#msg939800
here is a link to another post with the location, behind the fuse box under the steering wheel
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=66529.msg939800#msg939800
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Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Fuse con-fuse-ion: parasitic draw
« on: 29 December 2021, 12:28:10 »
Many thanks Dr G
you mention the 2001+ wiring diagram; the only one I have is in Haynes, is there a clearer (eg larger and better print!!) one available on the site? If not, could you post it please? [edit just seen your comment elsewhere: "Factory diagrams are the same layout as Haynes. Probably because the Haynes ones are based on the factory ones (unlike the current ones)."]
I'll track back and find the Consumer time delay relay K153, (FV4 is a fusible link yes?) when I get back to the car and look at the kick panel. For reference, another post says: "Timer delay relay is under steering wheel. Drop fusecover flap, undo the 2 screws holding the main fuseboard and the relay is behind that (tall yellow one)"
My current clamp attachment seems to have a very high rating so I can only hope the draw will register on that instrument.
you mention the 2001+ wiring diagram; the only one I have is in Haynes, is there a clearer (eg larger and better print!!) one available on the site? If not, could you post it please? [edit just seen your comment elsewhere: "Factory diagrams are the same layout as Haynes. Probably because the Haynes ones are based on the factory ones (unlike the current ones)."]
I'll track back and find the Consumer time delay relay K153, (FV4 is a fusible link yes?) when I get back to the car and look at the kick panel. For reference, another post says: "Timer delay relay is under steering wheel. Drop fusecover flap, undo the 2 screws holding the main fuseboard and the relay is behind that (tall yellow one)"
My current clamp attachment seems to have a very high rating so I can only hope the draw will register on that instrument.
10
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Fuse con-fuse-ion: parasitic draw
« on: 28 December 2021, 14:50:44 »
Hello Polilara
thank for the reply; the bulb list was especially helpful. The wattages for the interior lights:
Rear internal light, door light, boot light - C5W
add up to a around 20w therefore (if they are all alight when the door is open (I will have to check that), there being two console lights (door lights). I was getting 14.5w on my original test, so the next stage is to use the clamp meter as I want to run the test for 30 mins and do not want to disturb the alarm and radio systems. I don't think we can diagnose further until then unless, as I say, there are well known issues eg with certain relays not-delatching or alarm systems drawing excessive current.
Thanks for the link to your own issues.
you referred me to the fuse array as follows:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90451.0
I saw this previously and is an example of the problem: fuse F7 on this 2003 car is NOT 30A as stated in that diagram's list "Electrically operated windows". This is the confusion to which I am referring. The Owners Handbook lists that fuse as the "internal lighting" and "check control" and "engine oil level". I suppose that I will have to go by the Owner's Handbook then.
Alarm: so there is no practicable way of disabling that but leaving the immobiliser working?
Does the alarm plunger switch under the bonnet still "close" when the bonnet is just resting down and unlocked, ie how does this affect electrical consumption when left like that?
Damp issues: I did remove the under-scuttle sponge pad because that was leaking all the rainwater into the spark plug wells (then stopped after removal) but on lifting the bonnet the other day during the rain, I could see a fair amount of water dripping down the sides of the engine instead. Perhaps connectors are getting wet but water, even dirty water, is not a great conductor of electricity at these voltages, nevertheless still worth looming at.
Jumping the door locks - any reasons not to?
DR Gollum - may thanks also for your contribution but the assumption as to my separation of items which you make is not quite correct, but there is no mileage in pursuing that aspect.
However ref your:
"Anyhoo, Fuse 7, (fed from FV5 on top of the battery... Second from the wing, 80 Amp), ONLY supplies the switched side of the Consumer Relay, K153.
In turn, this only feeds:
Boot light
Glove box light
The primary feed to the Consumer Relay comes from FV4 via the ignition.
Ergo, if removing the boot light and glove box light bulbs doesn't stop the drain, you need a new Consumer Relay."
Are you saying that if removal of the fuse F7 on the switched side (do you mean high current side?) of the relay does not help (it does not) that you think that the control side (ie low current) of the relay is possibly not delatching and is "leaking" current?
NB I tested the battery in the bench for a week before installation earlier in the year and there was no appreciable internal current consumption
As to "A secondary point to consider is evidence of moisture in/around the large block connector at the base of the driver side A pillar." is that connector within the cabin behind panels or within the engine bay or under the plastic cover for the power sounder?
thank for the reply; the bulb list was especially helpful. The wattages for the interior lights:
Rear internal light, door light, boot light - C5W
add up to a around 20w therefore (if they are all alight when the door is open (I will have to check that), there being two console lights (door lights). I was getting 14.5w on my original test, so the next stage is to use the clamp meter as I want to run the test for 30 mins and do not want to disturb the alarm and radio systems. I don't think we can diagnose further until then unless, as I say, there are well known issues eg with certain relays not-delatching or alarm systems drawing excessive current.
Thanks for the link to your own issues.
you referred me to the fuse array as follows:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90451.0
I saw this previously and is an example of the problem: fuse F7 on this 2003 car is NOT 30A as stated in that diagram's list "Electrically operated windows". This is the confusion to which I am referring. The Owners Handbook lists that fuse as the "internal lighting" and "check control" and "engine oil level". I suppose that I will have to go by the Owner's Handbook then.
Alarm: so there is no practicable way of disabling that but leaving the immobiliser working?
Does the alarm plunger switch under the bonnet still "close" when the bonnet is just resting down and unlocked, ie how does this affect electrical consumption when left like that?
Damp issues: I did remove the under-scuttle sponge pad because that was leaking all the rainwater into the spark plug wells (then stopped after removal) but on lifting the bonnet the other day during the rain, I could see a fair amount of water dripping down the sides of the engine instead. Perhaps connectors are getting wet but water, even dirty water, is not a great conductor of electricity at these voltages, nevertheless still worth looming at.
Jumping the door locks - any reasons not to?
DR Gollum - may thanks also for your contribution but the assumption as to my separation of items which you make is not quite correct, but there is no mileage in pursuing that aspect.
However ref your:
"Anyhoo, Fuse 7, (fed from FV5 on top of the battery... Second from the wing, 80 Amp), ONLY supplies the switched side of the Consumer Relay, K153.
In turn, this only feeds:
Boot light
Glove box light
The primary feed to the Consumer Relay comes from FV4 via the ignition.
Ergo, if removing the boot light and glove box light bulbs doesn't stop the drain, you need a new Consumer Relay."
Are you saying that if removal of the fuse F7 on the switched side (do you mean high current side?) of the relay does not help (it does not) that you think that the control side (ie low current) of the relay is possibly not delatching and is "leaking" current?
NB I tested the battery in the bench for a week before installation earlier in the year and there was no appreciable internal current consumption
As to "A secondary point to consider is evidence of moisture in/around the large block connector at the base of the driver side A pillar." is that connector within the cabin behind panels or within the engine bay or under the plastic cover for the power sounder?
11
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Fuse con-fuse-ion: parasitic draw
« on: 24 December 2021, 17:25:28 »
Thanks Dr G
however, most other Haynes manuals I have consulted on numerous vehicles include a list of all bulbs (possibly excepting the instrument panel backlights) - hence I found it odd that there was none in the Haynes and a shame that there was none in the tech section here as a sticky. Maybe a sticky can be started?
As an aside, am not sure what you mean about scatterbombing: the posts were discrete questions and will make it easier for others to search later with similar issues. The fact that these matters arise from one afternoon's prodding about under the hood really doesn't matter. Apologies if they should have been lumped together, but separate questions tend to get focussed answers (despite this, please see below).
Back on topic, the problem is rather that the fuse array is different according to different sources for the same year -that is where the confusion lays.
I'm not getting 0.2A draw but 1.2A ie 14.5W on the fuse test; I think that is most likely the courtesy lights but cannot be sure, hence my question as to bulb specs. If I had the wattage of the interior bulbs, without taking them out, the P=VA equation would have helped me.
The battery was charged to 12.9v two nights ago and allowed to flash-off to 12.8 when I closed up. Today I am down to 11.8v (car not used in intervening time). The interior light fuse was also left out of its socket for the two intervening days.
I have checked the fuses under the steering column, in the triangular relay/fuse box under the hood and the square box attached to the battery. No draw except as I said, referable to the interior lights circit via Fuse 7.
Glove box light is a good tip, cheers, as long as it is not on the interior light circuit (fuse is out remember). It is pretty crowded with stuff in there so the switch may be operating.
I need to put a DC current clamp over the battery leads to see if there is drain at rest. In the meantime, in the absence of a verifiable and accountable current draw through the fuses, I am considering there is possibility of faulty diodes in the alternator: could not test today. A quick glance implies that there is little room for my putting my fat hand behind the alternator to pull the terminals off the back. Any tips on this gratefully received.
Telepathy also not needed; however method and knowledge of common failure points of the Omega are! For example, some cars sharing Ford's mid-2000s smart junction box technology never go to sleep: modules fire up intermittently causing all sorts of drain issues. Further, on some Fords not actively switching the radio off before cutting the ignition will flatten a battery in a few days, even though the radio is not "On" audibly.
So (despite what I said below about discrete questions!!):
1 does the Omega have modules/systems that do not sleep? The alarm system is one system, any others?
2 are there known issues with parasitic draws on Omegas?
3 any reason not to "jump" the door locks and bonnet locks to run a proper parasitic draw test?
4 can the alarm (but not immobiliser, ie leave that operational) circuit be disabled permanently?
5 is the Owners manual the final judgment on what the fuses in the under-column related to and I ignore Haynes?
Thanks for wading through this - replies welcome!
Cheers
RDS
however, most other Haynes manuals I have consulted on numerous vehicles include a list of all bulbs (possibly excepting the instrument panel backlights) - hence I found it odd that there was none in the Haynes and a shame that there was none in the tech section here as a sticky. Maybe a sticky can be started?
As an aside, am not sure what you mean about scatterbombing: the posts were discrete questions and will make it easier for others to search later with similar issues. The fact that these matters arise from one afternoon's prodding about under the hood really doesn't matter. Apologies if they should have been lumped together, but separate questions tend to get focussed answers (despite this, please see below).
Back on topic, the problem is rather that the fuse array is different according to different sources for the same year -that is where the confusion lays.
I'm not getting 0.2A draw but 1.2A ie 14.5W on the fuse test; I think that is most likely the courtesy lights but cannot be sure, hence my question as to bulb specs. If I had the wattage of the interior bulbs, without taking them out, the P=VA equation would have helped me.
The battery was charged to 12.9v two nights ago and allowed to flash-off to 12.8 when I closed up. Today I am down to 11.8v (car not used in intervening time). The interior light fuse was also left out of its socket for the two intervening days.
I have checked the fuses under the steering column, in the triangular relay/fuse box under the hood and the square box attached to the battery. No draw except as I said, referable to the interior lights circit via Fuse 7.
Glove box light is a good tip, cheers, as long as it is not on the interior light circuit (fuse is out remember). It is pretty crowded with stuff in there so the switch may be operating.
I need to put a DC current clamp over the battery leads to see if there is drain at rest. In the meantime, in the absence of a verifiable and accountable current draw through the fuses, I am considering there is possibility of faulty diodes in the alternator: could not test today. A quick glance implies that there is little room for my putting my fat hand behind the alternator to pull the terminals off the back. Any tips on this gratefully received.
Telepathy also not needed; however method and knowledge of common failure points of the Omega are! For example, some cars sharing Ford's mid-2000s smart junction box technology never go to sleep: modules fire up intermittently causing all sorts of drain issues. Further, on some Fords not actively switching the radio off before cutting the ignition will flatten a battery in a few days, even though the radio is not "On" audibly.
So (despite what I said below about discrete questions!!):
1 does the Omega have modules/systems that do not sleep? The alarm system is one system, any others?
2 are there known issues with parasitic draws on Omegas?
3 any reason not to "jump" the door locks and bonnet locks to run a proper parasitic draw test?
4 can the alarm (but not immobiliser, ie leave that operational) circuit be disabled permanently?
5 is the Owners manual the final judgment on what the fuses in the under-column related to and I ignore Haynes?
Thanks for wading through this - replies welcome!
Cheers
RDS
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Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Fuse con-fuse-ion: parasitic draw
« on: 23 December 2021, 22:36:59 »
Yes thanks for the tip there, but as I am not at the car, I wondered if there was a list of bulbs like there seems to be for other vehicles I have had.
Mine is a late 2003 CDX estate 2.2 auto.
I still would like to know what "check control" is referring to on the fused circuit....
Mine is a late 2003 CDX estate 2.2 auto.
I still would like to know what "check control" is referring to on the fused circuit....
13
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: On My Radio code. Not. Alarmed!
« on: 23 December 2021, 22:18:27 »
I will look up the Sealey unit, at least the ODBII interface is less likely to power down.
The unit was exchanged like for like under warranty; I have not lost the code, but was not given it and as I said, if I've gone through the code elimination procedure successfully before, doing it again will reinstitute it I think. I'm not at the car to look at that large audio book, but i do not recall a way to test to see if the code was set or removed.
The unit is the am/fm radio, cassette and 4 cd integrated changer, I do not recall the model for sure but it may have been the CDR2006 as you say.
Decent car audio shops? Not since the 80s here!! well there may be one not too far away, but decent is another matter.
Can't the system be interrogated via the ODBII using the Vauxhall equivalent of Ford's Forscan (free!)?
The unit was exchanged like for like under warranty; I have not lost the code, but was not given it and as I said, if I've gone through the code elimination procedure successfully before, doing it again will reinstitute it I think. I'm not at the car to look at that large audio book, but i do not recall a way to test to see if the code was set or removed.
The unit is the am/fm radio, cassette and 4 cd integrated changer, I do not recall the model for sure but it may have been the CDR2006 as you say.
Decent car audio shops? Not since the 80s here!! well there may be one not too far away, but decent is another matter.
Can't the system be interrogated via the ODBII using the Vauxhall equivalent of Ford's Forscan (free!)?
14
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: On My Radio code. Not. Alarmed!
« on: 23 December 2021, 19:23:44 »
no, no tow bar fitted. Just the two cigarette lighters. I wonder if there is a way to recode the timer?
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Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Fuse con-fuse-ion: parasitic draw
« on: 23 December 2021, 19:21:31 »
many thanks yes, had a look but no list of bulbs; no immediately visible answer to the other issues.