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[BazaJT]

Anyone know what's involved changing the oil pump on a X reg 1.8 turbo diesel Focus? I believe it's the Endura engine if that helps.

[biggriffin]

I would say find a Haynes Manuel, i

[X30XE]

Sure. You douse the interior with petrol and then lob a match in.  Then you stand back for 20mins as the oil pump can get a bit warm during this process.  Then hey presto! it's fixed. 


You'll thank me later. 

[Nick W]

An Endura diesel that needs an oil pump rather than a camshaft and cylinder head. What is the world coming too?

[BazaJT]

It's step daughters car and she says anything 70mph and upwards and the oil pressure light flickers.We've[meaning me]done an oil and filter change and replaced oil pressure sensor,but this has had no effect.Car did a 245mile round trip yesterday at 60 to 65mph[where permissible of course]car ran fine and at those sorts of speeds no oil light flickering.Trouble is she does like to "press on" a bit-on private roads of course

[Webby the Bear]

I would think it's worth hooking up an oil pressure gauge to measure the pressure against spec before you tear down the car. Just MO of course 

[Kevin Wood]

If it has been losing oil pressure at those sort of speeds, I wonder what state the engine internals are in, TBH.

[Marks DTM Calib]

If it has been losing oil pressure at those sort of speeds, I wonder what state the engine internals are in, TBH.

Agreed!

[BazaJT]

Well car has done about 130,000mls,service history if it ever had one is an unknown.Having heard it both starting up and when running there doesn't appear to be any untoward noises.Might be a good call of Mr.Bear,so I'll borrow a pressure tester and see if that tells anything,apparently so I'm told that model Focus has been known to have electrical glitches with the dash cluster.

[STEMO]

Aw come on. It's a 16/17 year old focus with 130000 on the clock. Let it die peacefully. 

[Kevin Wood]

The fact that it's losing pressure at high speeds makes me wonder if it's a blocked or fractured pickup pipe or something rather than the pump itself.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Or a sticking pressure bypass valve.

Either way the oil light comes on when the pressure is truly naff all so its never good!

[BazaJT]

Well I'm conducting this by text message[not ideal I know]but she tells me the light flashes rapidly-not on pause off and repeat-but today she's informed me it gets worse if she brakes heavily Oil level is fine,have arranged to do oil pressure check on it tomorrow evening,so hopefully will know a little more after that.

[BazaJT]

Have now done pressure test on the car.Official Ford values are 0.75 bar at tickover and 1.5 bar at 2,000revs-both of these figures are minimum values.Actual test readings give just under 2 bar at tickover and just under 4 bar at 2,000 revs.So at present going with theory that fault is electrical as it seems that these cars suffered with issues in regard to the dash cluster.

[Stargazer57N]

the oil pump is located behind the crankshaft pulley and timing belt so if you feel confident to play around with the valve timing then give it a go. If not leave well along my friend as you could end up doing more harm than good.
 

[Webby the Bear]

Have now done pressure test on the car.Official Ford values are 0.75 bar at tickover and 1.5 bar at 2,000revs-both of these figures are minimum values.Actual test readings give just under 2 bar at tickover and just under 4 bar at 2,000 revs.So at present going with theory that fault is electrical as it seems that these cars suffered with issues in regard to the dash cluster.

Nice one baza.

Do ford give any maximum figures? Putting my college head on..... if the oil pressure is high then that COULD indicate there's a build up of crud in the galleries thus narrowing said gallery thus increasing oil pressure.

if it's within a certain spec then bang on mate 👍👍👍

One final question.... what sort of revs does it do at motorway speeds? 3.5k? If so can you replicate the fault at idle with the revs on? Or is it only at speed? If u can then would be great to see the pressure result at motorway revs 👍

[BazaJT]

Ford only specify the two rev ranges i.e tickover and 2,000 and only give the minimum reading acceptable,so obviously they're what I went with.She tells me that 70mph is somewhere in the 2,500 to 3,000rev range,as a quick check although without figures to compare to I did get her to take it up to 3,000 to note any strange behaviour on the part of the pressure,which did raise slightly over the 2,000rev figure but nothing wildly out of order and when revs decreased back to tickover pressure reading fell to and held steady at just under the 2 bar reading seen at start of process.Turns out sitting at roadside with car in neutral and revving the nuts off it produces no flickering of the light[she could have told me that earlier So only happens when on the move but gets worse when braking hard!

[Kevin Wood]

The connection with braking makes me think it's down to the level in the sump. Maybe a fracture in the pickup pipe that starts sucking air when it's uncovered?

Braking is going to make the oil slosh about, and at high speed, there will be more oil distributed around the engine, and the flow rate will be higher as it gets slung out of the bearings quicker so the level will be a little lower.

Can you extend the pipe to the gauge so that it can be located by the windscreen? They you can keep an eye on it when driving...

[BazaJT]

I think it would be awkward to extend gauge pipe,but obviously do-able.As she's off away for a week from tomorrow I've told her that although I'm now of the belief that it's an electrical issue when she comes back I'll drop the sump/oil pan[?] and have a look see at the pick up pipe,clean the strainer etc.and in the mean time she should take it steady and stick with the 60-65 range where the light stays off.I must be mad the Omega has sat since last November awaiting repair and I just can't be bothered,yet someone else comes up with a problem and I'm there getting stuck in trying to solve it

[al brown]

Yep, cluster corrodes on the back face, mind showed up as an abs/handbrake fault.
Remove the cluster, take a photo of the position of all the needles, they just pull off and aren't keyed. Then disassemble the cluster to gain access to the circuit board. Clean the corroded pins and stick some electrical lacquer over it (nail varnish at a push). Resemble and refit.
Al

[BazaJT]

Thanks for that info AB,I'll pass that onto her[she used to build/repair computers so should be able to sort her way round doing that] I wasn't sure they could be fixed or how.

[al brown]

Doesn't take long, as soon as she gets the cluster stripped down to the circuit board she should be able to see where the green crud is on the board. It causes bad earth's between circuits, ours only showed up over 40 mph when the abs light would come on but logged no fault code and abs would still work even with the light on. That was 4 years ago and it's been fine since I fixed it.
Just make sure she knows where to put the needles back on, like I said they aren't keyed, just a push fit. Don't want to get the speedo wrong!

[BazaJT]

I'll tell her and double stress the point to make sure she takes photos beforehand,then it's down to her if she mucks it up!One slight mix up we had was me telling her to try revving it while parked at the kerb and see if the light still flickered,when I did pressure test she said no light which I took to mean that she'd tried it while parked and it hadn't happened.In actual fact she meant that while doing pressure test the light didn't illuminate at all.Must admit I thought that with pressure sensor out and disconnected the light would be on all the time,but I know nothing of electrics so maybe that's the way it's set up.